We tried Edinburgh's bougie new taster menu that won't break the bank

Edinburgh Live

7 days ago

There's nothing like dining out with a loved one in a bougie restaurant, although admittedly they can feel a touch inaccessible for a lot of us in the capital.
The price of a tasting menu or gastronomic experience can often leave the eyes watering and a sour taste in the mouth.
So when you find a spot which offers delicious food with warm service and a below astronomical bill - it is worth taking notice. That is exactly what my wife and I stumbled upon when we headed to check out the new dining experience 'The Court x Mark Greenaway' at The Caledonian.
Situated in Edinburgh's West End, the hotel is well recognised for welcoming a plethora of famous stars through its doors, from Charlie Chaplin and Elizabeth Taylor, to the late Queen Elizabth II and former US President Barack Obama.
This will come as no surprise for those who have entered the historic West End building; guests and visitors are greeted by a luxurious regal interior, and as you walk into the restaurant, you are transported back in time to when the building was home to a train station.
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Inception-like, The Court is overlooked by a building which is inside a building, and the facade from the former travel hub is visible as you sit down and tuck your napkin in.
But lets get down to the brass tax, the cost of the meal: the six-course progression tasting menu comes in at £65 per person with an additional £40 wine pairing per person. Granted this will leave a bit more of a dent in your wallet than a run of the mill eatery but, in my experience, this is extremely reasonable for a tasting menu - especially when you consider the quality on offer.
After taking a seat, we were talked through the experience by the amazing waiting staff who were attentive all night. My pregnant wife was offered the nosecco while I cracked on with the first round of the wine pairing in the name of journalistic research - someone had to do it.
My personal marker for getting off to a good start in plush restaurants is always 'how good is your bread and butter?' and The Court did not disappoint. They have this pistachio butter that is to die for, accompanied by a lovely mound of bread.
The first dish was the Scottish crab raviolo made with smoked cauliflower custard, lemon pearls, herb butter and baby coriander. I always thought I hated crab because I'd only ever tried the cheap crab sticks served at my English family's parties - how wrong I was, the dish was divine.
At school I would always go for the Benny's soup and sandwich out of the now closed delicatessen on St John's road, it was an absolute bargain and the coronation chicken was a real winner. So you can imagine my joy when the next course was announced as the 'soup & sandwich.'
But rather than some carrot and coriander with an overfilled cheap chicken filling from Benny's, this was something they would have served in Versailles before peasants stormed Bastille. Pea velouté, Paris Brest, blue cheese mousse and the maple gel, all came together superbly.
As we awaited the third course, the pair of us were in great spirits with the first two dishes hitting all the right notes, however our excitement was rather short-lived. Like a typical Scot, a salad can often make the hairs on my neck stand up, but this was something entirely different in appearance even if similar in sustenance.
The Chilled Summer Vegetable Garden dish made up of savoury squash custard, pickled celeriac, broad beans, truffle dressing and walnut mayonnaise, looked impressive - but all was not as it seemed. The contents looked like something a trust fund Hampton lacrosse bro would put in his blender to make a hangover-curing smoothie.
The truffle dressing and walnut mayonnaise were the only things which saved the dish for me, but psychologically, I could not get over the feeling I was eating cold, congealed soup.
We were eager for the half-time whistle at this stage, we had started first off strong but were in need of a breather and time to regroup.
When the fourth course arrived, we were raring to go and hit the ground running. The Cod & Lobster accompanied by a choux bun-like 'Hot Dog' was quirky and really enjoyable. The main dish was one of the nicest I've eaten at a tasting menu.
The broth accompanying the cod and lobster was other worldly and tasted like it had been crafted by the gods themselves. For me, this is the best dish on the progression menu.
The fifth was another pearler, with Mark Greenway pulling out all the stops, as the 11 Hour Slow Roasted Clash Farm Belly Pork ticked all the right boxes. Biting into the pork, you had the crunch before being met by the soft, slow-cooked centre. All of it was married together miraculously by a toffee apple jus.
The plate was accompanied by a tasty pork cheek pie which on its own was not up to much but was vastly improved by a dip in the aforementioned jus.
Last but by no means least, and after unbuckling a couple of notches on the belt, we were treated to the sweet treat, the Chocolate 'Box.' A devilish sponge with dark chocolate and raspberry companions, it was the perfect way to end an extremely enjoyable evening.
The wines were all to my liking, bar the crisp, dry white which accompanied the first dish, but the one that stole the show was an incredible German Riesling addition which hit all the right spots midway through.
Throughout our evening we were not only treated to inventive, satisfying and sublime food, but also an angelic like harpist and live music from an old school duet.
It is the ideal setting to impress that workplace crush or to take the breath away from your bride of many summers on a special occasion.
We will certainly be back.
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On the progression tasting menu, Mark Greenaway said: 'The Court offers something very special. Since the investment within this new food and drink destination, we have been working hard, collaborating behind the scenes, and getting Mark Greenaway at The Court ready for our upcoming launch day on the first of May.
'In celebration of Scotland's new Spring produce, and inspired by my most recent cookbook, Progression, we will be offering a signature A la Carte menu, alongside an amazing six-course Tasting Menu which we will be changing every six to seven weeks, depending on what is available and in-season. The menus will be uber seasonal and utilising the amazing Scottish produce that we have on our doorstep.'
To make a booking, simply visit The Court – The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton website here.