Mount Everest's Record-Setting Sherpa Sees a Future of Snowless Mountains and Fewer Guides
For more than 30 years, Mr. Rita, 55, has helped climbers from all over the world reach the top of the mountain. The New York Times spoke to him about his long career on Wednesday in Kathmandu, hours after his record-breaking climb.
He spoke about the recent surge in luxury expeditions, the use of xenon gas for climbs and how climate change is radically altering the future of the mountain. This conversation has been condensed and edited for clarity.
Congratulations on your 31st climb. How are you feeling?
I'm proud of this achievement. As a guide, I fulfilled the long-cherished dreams of climbers to stand atop the world's highest point. I'm happy that I fulfilled their dreams this year as well.
This climb was a bit difficult because of harsh weather conditions. In my experience, over the last two or three years, climbing the mountain has become more difficult.
How so?
Changes are visible in the entire mountain region, not just Everest. It's because of climate change. Snow is melting faster than expected, and that has made climbing more difficult and riskier.
In the early days, at Camp II [a higher elevation on the mountain], we could walk over ice until the first week of June. We never saw streams coming down from that area. But on Tuesday, one of our fellow guides drowned because melting ice created a stream there. It was up to my waist.
What I fear is that, if this continues at the same rate, there will be no snow on the mountains in the next 10 to 15 years.
Because of the increased risks, the number of Sherpas climbing the mountain is dwindling. Foreign climbers may not come if expeditions become risker. If climbers don't come, guides won't have jobs, and there will also be no royalties for the government of Nepal.
I think eventually there will be no Sherpas to guide clients and no snow will exist.
What are the other big changes you've seen during your career?
Climbing used to be purely an adventurer's game. Decades ago, they used small tents. These days, some of them use luxury tents. Huge dome tents are used to keep climbers warm. Generators are used for light and to keep them warm.
In the early days, climbers used to climb even without food for a day or two. Or we used to survive with just the water from the mountains. These days, climbers get the food of their choice. Still, some of them complain about its taste.
I don't think some climbers are here for adventure. Some seem to be here for entertainment or to have a party in the mountains. It's not good for mountaineering.
This year, some used xenon gas to climb Everest in less than a week. How do you feel about its use to climb the mountain?
I heard about the use of xenon gas, but it's quite new for all of us.
It will take at least a few years to research this gas. Only then can we understand its impact on climbing.
What are the biggest lessons you've learned over the years?
We should understand the value of life. Taking clients to the summit is not the ultimate success; bringing them safely back to the base of the mountain is more important. Reuniting clients with their families is the greatest achievement.
How do you feel about the future of climbing Everest?
I don't see a future in climbing. For example, I'm not asking my son to work as a mountain guide. Sons or grandsons of other Sherpa families are also not joining the profession.
We have faced greater risks over time, and we don't want to bring our children into this career. Younger generations are no longer interested in working as climbing guides.
Because of that, I think there will be an acute shortage of Sherpas working as climbing guides. Foreign climbers will have to go up without Sherpas.
Should we drop them near the top of the mountain with helicopters so they can try to push to the summit from that point on their own? That's a possible scenario. When you don't have Sherpas to lead expeditions, that's the alternative.
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