This Top Fashion Designer Thinks Men's Pants Are Too Tight
Even if you don't recognize Alessandro Sartori's face, there's a good chance you've seen his shoes. Zegna's Triple Stitch leather sneakers, with crisscrossing elastics down the front in place of laces, have become the unofficial 'rich guy' shoes in recent years—light enough to be nonchalantly kicked up onto a mahogany desk after a day of dealmaking.
The sneakers, which he redesigned in 2020 and can run over $1,000, are emblematic of the decidedly modern look Sartori has mastered since taking over as artistic director of Zegna in 2016. One camel cashmere overshirt at a time, Sartori is creating new power uniforms for highfliers who no longer need rigid power suits.
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Yahoo
22-05-2025
- Yahoo
WWD to Present Awards at Saudi Fashion Awards
WWD, in collaboration with the Saudi Fashion Commission, will again present awards as part of the Saudi Fashion Awards taking place in Riyadh on Thursday. The WWD Awards will recognize Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, as International Designer of the Year; Matteo Tamburini, creative director of Tod's, as International Brand of the Year; Patrick Ta, founder of Patrick Ta Beauty, as International Beauty Innovator of the Year, and Glow Recipe as International Beauty Brand of the Year. More from WWD Tom Ford, Zegna Eyewear-maker Marcolin Reports Q1 Growth, Strengthens Luxury Eyewear Portfolio Ella Bleu Travolta Hosts Tod's Luncheon, With Olivia Holt and More Strong DTC, Americas Help Zegna Group Offset Wholesale Declines in Q1 Sartori has been spearheading a major stylistic shift at Zegna as its artistic director, boosting the company's business around the world. The fall 2021 collection was a watershed moment for the brand, establishing a precise and significant aesthetic change. At the time, he called the collection 'The (Re)set,' pointing to an entirely new course for Zegna, acknowledging that traditional formalwear had run its course, and the designer proceeded to blur the lines between luxury and leisurewear, elevating both, creating functional and comfortable yet exclusive garments. This led him to receive the WWD award for Menwear Designer of the Year in 2022. His knowledge of fabrics is encyclopedic and he has been lacquering jacquard tops; rubberizing leather and nylon, and using recycled paper, which telegraphs Zegna's focus on sustainability and its 'Oasi Cashmere' traceability project, increasing the use of wool and technical fabrics made from preexisting and postconsumer sources. In fact, Sartori hails from Biella, Italy, not far from Zegna's Trivero headquarters, and received a degree in textile engineering in Biella, followed by a degree in fashion design at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Sartori and Zegna go a long way back, as he began his career at the Italian group in 1989 as a menswear designer and became creative director of the Z Zegna line in 2003. In 2011, he was appointed artistic director at Berluti and left five years later to rejoin Zegna in his current role. Other introductions that contributed to gel his vision for Zegna, include his shirt jackets and an innovative cashmere jersey fabric developed by Zegna — superlight yet reminiscent of felt — on fluid suits in generous silhouettes or on kimono-style belted jackets and oversize blazers with no internal canvas or linings — often in soft and dusty monochromatic palettes. Tamburini's first collection for Tod's bowed in February 2024 and, as the brand's creative director, he has been in charge of both the women's and men's collections. Born in 1982 in Italy's Urbino, he arrived at Tod's from Bottega Veneta, which he had joined in 2017. The two brands share a time-honed expertise in artisanal leather goods made by hand, and, to be sure, Tamburini has proved he is embracing Tod's world, aesthetics and values while pushing the envelop farther, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and fits, and evolving his designs with increasing confidence. Most recently, his fall 2025 collection was a step further in his narrative as the designer was inspired by the PAC contemporary art museum in Milan, where he staged the show, and its history. As a space that showcases art, Tamburini looked to artists Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri and Lucio Fontana, exploring how they treated the fabrics. This led, for example, to a beautiful brushed alpaca coat with black-and-white swirls reminiscent of an Accardi abstract painting or Fontana's technical severity was reflected in the sharp and structured tailored coats. Over the seasons, Tamburini has been offering sleek and sophisticated designs, yet with a modern touch, fluid shapes and a sort of nonchalant attitude. At the same time, he has further developed Tod's core leather goods business, from the signature Gommino mocassins to the handbags. Ta began his career in Arizona before moving to Los Angeles, where he built up a client list that reads like a who's who of celebrity today — Gigi Hadid, Sydney Sweeney, Camilla Cabello, Ariana Grande and the Kardashian clan. But it's his ability to connect with all women, famous or not, that has propelled his brand to be one of the fastest growing in beauty today. Women made up by Ta love his ability to create the most beautiful, radiant skin in the business, with a light that seems to glow from within. With a skin-forward approach that emphasizes a radiant complexion, his products, formulated for a wide range of skins tones, translate professional makeup techniques into everyday essentials — while capturing the playful and empowering spirit at the heart of his namesake brand. Across the collections, product names have a strong, uplifting voice with descriptions like 'She's Bold' and 'She's Vibrant.' It's no surprise that the foundation, body products and blush have become the hero products in his business, which launched in the teeth of the pandemic and has gone on to become a top seller at Sephora. More than a decade ago, two young L'Oréal executives decided to leave their corporate positions and take the ultimate leap of faith by starting their own brand. Under the leadership of cofounders and co-chief executive officers Christine Chang and Sarah Lee, Glow Recipe's considered approach to expansion (in terms of both geographies and categories) has culminated in a global powerhouse. Now 11 years old, Glow Recipe has become one of the world's most successful independent skin care brands. Its blend of clinically effective, fruit powered products have become multigenerational favorites — with Watermelon Glow Dew Drops and Pore-Tight Toner achieving true hero product status. More recently, the brand has ventured into makeup — infusing its bestsellers with hints of color and forging the way for the skinification of makeup. The brand recently ventured into Latin America, specifically in Mexico and Brazil with Sephora, and launched in Europe this past year. When it comes to deciding which market to enter next, Lee and Chang examine how they can build and sustain and strategize how to win. Other awards being presented by the Saudi Fashion Commission on Thursday recognized achievements in the Saudi fashion industry include Fashion Stylist of the Year; Fashion Photographer of the Year, presented in collaboration with Hia Magazine; Menswear Brand of the Year; Womenswear Brand of the Year; Jewelry Brand of the Year, and the Elite Model Honorary Award for Model of the Year. The judging panel includes Hollywood stylist Law Roach; Amanda Smith, CEO of Fairchild Media Group and WWD; Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission; Xavier Romatet, dean of Institut Français de la Mode ; Mohammed Aldabbageh, KSA managing director of Chalhoub Group, and Mai Badr, editor in chief of Hia Magazine. Best of WWD Bottega Veneta Through the Years Chanel's Ambassadors Over The Years Ranking Fashion's Longest-serving Creative Directors
Yahoo
10-05-2025
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Tom Ford, Zegna Eyewear-maker Marcolin Reports Q1 Growth, Strengthens Luxury Eyewear Portfolio
MILAN — Marcolin closed the first three months of 2025 with a growth in margins and top line. In the period ended March 31, adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization rose 2.3 percent to 26.3 million euros compared with the first quarter last year, representing a margin of 17.8 percent on sales. More from WWD Kylie Jenner and Timothée Chalamet Choose Schiaparelli and Tom Ford for Red Carpet Debut in Rome Miley Cyrus Styles Looks by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, McQueen and More to Celebrate New Album With Spotify Princess Charlene of Monaco in Prada, Queen Rania of Jordan in Alaïa and More Royals in Somber Attire for Pope Francis' Funeral Ceremony in Vatican City Operating profit rose 2.6 percent to 19.6 million euros from 19.1 million euros, and net sales were up 1.2 percent to 147.3 million euros compared with 145.6 million euros in the same period last year. On a like-for-like basis, net sales increased by 2 percent. The performance in Marcolin's two main geographic areas in the first quarter was mixed. Sales in the Europe, Middle East and Africa region rose 8.3 percent to 79.2 million euros, while in the Americas, revenues decreased 3.7 percent to 50.1 million euros, impacted by the uncertain scenario. The Italian company produces eyewear collections for brands ranging from Zegna and Max Mara to MCM, Pucci, Guess, Timberland and Adidas Original, to name a few. In 2023, Marcolin inked a perpetual license with Tom Ford as part of The Estée Lauder Cos.' takeover of the brand's business for about $2.3 billion. Last year, Marcolin renewed its licenses with Zegna, GCDS, Max&Co. and Skechers and, while Moncler signed with EssilorLuxottica, Marcolin added new agreements with Christian Louboutin, K-Way and Abercrombie & Fitch premiere luxury priced collection, both sun and optical, for Louboutin was launched last month with a total of 25 styles — encompassing more than 70 color stock keeping units — distributed across two releases for spring and summer 2025. Teased with a soft launch in February with an initial 14 sun and seven optical styles, supported by an ad campaign around New York City, April saw the Loubishark sun capsule, directly inspired by the well-known Loubishark sneakers, debut with a full campaign rollout globally. The deal with Louboutin will run through 2029. During the first three months of the year, Marcolin announced the early renewal until 2032 of its license agreement for the design, production and international distribution of Max Mara sunglasses and optical frames, confirming and further strengthening the partnership signed in 2020. In an interview in March to comment on the company's 2024 growth, chief executive officer Fabrizio Curci attributed this to the strategy embraced over the past four to five years of 'rebuilding a portfolio of brands that would be balanced and consistent as much as possible, premium luxury and more accessible, allowing Marcolin to sell to all categories of consumers, business-to-business and business-to-consumer in all market conditions.' Curci said he plans 'to stay the course in 2025, there is no need to change our strategy. The dynamics will not be different from 2024 and if certain geopolitical situations will cool off, including concerns about the tariffs, we hope there will be more consumer confidence, but we don't think there will be an overnight spike in the market.' At the same time, he expressed confidence in the resilience of the high-end range of the market. As of March 31, the adjusted net financial position amounted to 336.5 million euros, an increase of 15.2 million euros compared to Dec. 31, 2024, due to the typical business seasonality in the first quarter. Best of WWD Harvey Nichols Sees Sales Dip, Losses Widen in Year Marred by Closures Nike Logs $1.3 Billion Profit, But Supply Chain Issues Persist Zegna Shares Start Trading on New York Stock Exchange Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Yahoo
25-04-2025
- Yahoo
Zegna Group reports €459m Q1 2025 revenue on strong DTC performance
Italian luxury fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna has reported unaudited revenues of €458.82m ($521.55m) for the first quarter (Q1) of fiscal 2025 (FY 2025), a modest dip of 0.9% compared with €463.16m during the same period in 2024 (FY 2024). The Zegna segment, encompassing the ZEGNA brand, Textile division, and other revenue streams, saw an increase to €333.29m in Q1 FY 2025 from €324.90m in the previous year, marking a 2.6% rise. The Zegna brand experienced a revenue boost to €292.92m, up by 3.6% from €282.87m, largely attributed to robust growth in direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales. However, revenues of the textile division fell by 10% to €29.92m in Q1 FY 2025 from €33.24m in the same period a year ago, reflecting a drop in orders from external brands within the group. Thom Browne's segment faced challenges with revenues decreasing to €64.38m from €79.07m in the previous year, a decline of 18.6%. The Thom Browne brand mirrored this trend with revenues at €64.22m compared to €79.21m, down by 18.9% primarily due to deliberate reductions in wholesale channels, only partially mitigated by positive DTC performance. Over the quarter, the Tom Ford Fashion segment presented an uptick in revenues reaching €67.49m, growing 3.8% from €65.02m in the same period a year ago. An analysis of the group's DTC revenues indicated an upward trajectory with a total of €345.13m compared to €328.04m in the prior year, marking a 5.2% increase. In contrast, wholesale branded revenues declined by 19.8% to €79.49m in Q1 FY 2025 from €99.06m in the prior year quarter. Regionally, EMEA reported revenues of €154.09m in Q1 FY 2025, accounting for 34% of the group's total revenue stream. The Americas experienced growth with revenues climbing to €125.97m and representing 27% of overall revenues. The Greater China Region (GCR) faced a downturn with revenues at €123.26m, falling by 11.6% from the prior fiscal and contributing to 27% of total revenues. Lastly, the rest of Asia-Pacific (APAC) saw an increase in revenues to €55.85m, making up 12% of the group's revenue pie. Ermenegildo Zegna Group chairman and CEO Ermenegildo 'Gildo' Zegna said: 'We are encouraged by these early positive results but also mindful of the recent geopolitical and economic uncertainties. 'And while we have not observed significant changes in customers' behaviour across our brands, we remain vigilant, agile, and focused on our strategic priorities knowing that what truly matters is the strength of our brands and our unwavering commitment to staying close to our customers." "Zegna Group reports €459m Q1 2025 revenue on strong DTC performance" was originally created and published by Retail Insight Network, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site. Sign in to access your portfolio
