Latest news with #Sartori
Yahoo
22-05-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
WWD to Present Awards at Saudi Fashion Awards
WWD, in collaboration with the Saudi Fashion Commission, will again present awards as part of the Saudi Fashion Awards taking place in Riyadh on Thursday. The WWD Awards will recognize Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, as International Designer of the Year; Matteo Tamburini, creative director of Tod's, as International Brand of the Year; Patrick Ta, founder of Patrick Ta Beauty, as International Beauty Innovator of the Year, and Glow Recipe as International Beauty Brand of the Year. More from WWD Tom Ford, Zegna Eyewear-maker Marcolin Reports Q1 Growth, Strengthens Luxury Eyewear Portfolio Ella Bleu Travolta Hosts Tod's Luncheon, With Olivia Holt and More Strong DTC, Americas Help Zegna Group Offset Wholesale Declines in Q1 Sartori has been spearheading a major stylistic shift at Zegna as its artistic director, boosting the company's business around the world. The fall 2021 collection was a watershed moment for the brand, establishing a precise and significant aesthetic change. At the time, he called the collection 'The (Re)set,' pointing to an entirely new course for Zegna, acknowledging that traditional formalwear had run its course, and the designer proceeded to blur the lines between luxury and leisurewear, elevating both, creating functional and comfortable yet exclusive garments. This led him to receive the WWD award for Menwear Designer of the Year in 2022. His knowledge of fabrics is encyclopedic and he has been lacquering jacquard tops; rubberizing leather and nylon, and using recycled paper, which telegraphs Zegna's focus on sustainability and its 'Oasi Cashmere' traceability project, increasing the use of wool and technical fabrics made from preexisting and postconsumer sources. In fact, Sartori hails from Biella, Italy, not far from Zegna's Trivero headquarters, and received a degree in textile engineering in Biella, followed by a degree in fashion design at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Sartori and Zegna go a long way back, as he began his career at the Italian group in 1989 as a menswear designer and became creative director of the Z Zegna line in 2003. In 2011, he was appointed artistic director at Berluti and left five years later to rejoin Zegna in his current role. Other introductions that contributed to gel his vision for Zegna, include his shirt jackets and an innovative cashmere jersey fabric developed by Zegna — superlight yet reminiscent of felt — on fluid suits in generous silhouettes or on kimono-style belted jackets and oversize blazers with no internal canvas or linings — often in soft and dusty monochromatic palettes. Tamburini's first collection for Tod's bowed in February 2024 and, as the brand's creative director, he has been in charge of both the women's and men's collections. Born in 1982 in Italy's Urbino, he arrived at Tod's from Bottega Veneta, which he had joined in 2017. The two brands share a time-honed expertise in artisanal leather goods made by hand, and, to be sure, Tamburini has proved he is embracing Tod's world, aesthetics and values while pushing the envelop farther, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and fits, and evolving his designs with increasing confidence. Most recently, his fall 2025 collection was a step further in his narrative as the designer was inspired by the PAC contemporary art museum in Milan, where he staged the show, and its history. As a space that showcases art, Tamburini looked to artists Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri and Lucio Fontana, exploring how they treated the fabrics. This led, for example, to a beautiful brushed alpaca coat with black-and-white swirls reminiscent of an Accardi abstract painting or Fontana's technical severity was reflected in the sharp and structured tailored coats. Over the seasons, Tamburini has been offering sleek and sophisticated designs, yet with a modern touch, fluid shapes and a sort of nonchalant attitude. At the same time, he has further developed Tod's core leather goods business, from the signature Gommino mocassins to the handbags. Ta began his career in Arizona before moving to Los Angeles, where he built up a client list that reads like a who's who of celebrity today — Gigi Hadid, Sydney Sweeney, Camilla Cabello, Ariana Grande and the Kardashian clan. But it's his ability to connect with all women, famous or not, that has propelled his brand to be one of the fastest growing in beauty today. Women made up by Ta love his ability to create the most beautiful, radiant skin in the business, with a light that seems to glow from within. With a skin-forward approach that emphasizes a radiant complexion, his products, formulated for a wide range of skins tones, translate professional makeup techniques into everyday essentials — while capturing the playful and empowering spirit at the heart of his namesake brand. Across the collections, product names have a strong, uplifting voice with descriptions like 'She's Bold' and 'She's Vibrant.' It's no surprise that the foundation, body products and blush have become the hero products in his business, which launched in the teeth of the pandemic and has gone on to become a top seller at Sephora. More than a decade ago, two young L'Oréal executives decided to leave their corporate positions and take the ultimate leap of faith by starting their own brand. Under the leadership of cofounders and co-chief executive officers Christine Chang and Sarah Lee, Glow Recipe's considered approach to expansion (in terms of both geographies and categories) has culminated in a global powerhouse. Now 11 years old, Glow Recipe has become one of the world's most successful independent skin care brands. Its blend of clinically effective, fruit powered products have become multigenerational favorites — with Watermelon Glow Dew Drops and Pore-Tight Toner achieving true hero product status. More recently, the brand has ventured into makeup — infusing its bestsellers with hints of color and forging the way for the skinification of makeup. The brand recently ventured into Latin America, specifically in Mexico and Brazil with Sephora, and launched in Europe this past year. When it comes to deciding which market to enter next, Lee and Chang examine how they can build and sustain and strategize how to win. Other awards being presented by the Saudi Fashion Commission on Thursday recognized achievements in the Saudi fashion industry include Fashion Stylist of the Year; Fashion Photographer of the Year, presented in collaboration with Hia Magazine; Menswear Brand of the Year; Womenswear Brand of the Year; Jewelry Brand of the Year, and the Elite Model Honorary Award for Model of the Year. The judging panel includes Hollywood stylist Law Roach; Amanda Smith, CEO of Fairchild Media Group and WWD; Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission; Xavier Romatet, dean of Institut Français de la Mode ; Mohammed Aldabbageh, KSA managing director of Chalhoub Group, and Mai Badr, editor in chief of Hia Magazine. Best of WWD Bottega Veneta Through the Years Chanel's Ambassadors Over The Years Ranking Fashion's Longest-serving Creative Directors
New York Times
14-04-2025
- Lifestyle
- New York Times
Beige Is the Color of Money
In past eras, the wealthy tended to attire themselves in the richest of colors: indigo, crimson, the purple of nobilities and kings. We are no longer in that era. These days, the hue preferred by the richest people on earth is that most bland and mousy of non-colors — beige. For Lindsey Woodcock, a luxury travel consultant, the beige onslaught first revealed itself on the terraces and streets of St. Moritz, Switzerland, the exclusive Alpine resort town where she lives part-time. 'It becomes something you can't not see, said Ms. Woodcock, who also has residences in London and Sun Valley, Idaho. 'There are flocks of people cruising around entirely in cream or beige or off-white.' Against the backdrop of an anti-elitist mood in the United States and Europe, the privileged world of St. Moritz has become a place of soothing neutrals. You see it at shops like the cashmere purveyor Lamm, in the lobby of Badrutt's Palace Hotel and on the terrace of the Paradiso restaurant, with its views of the Engadine Valley. Why is this? The question was put to Alessandro Sartori, the artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, the Italian luxury goods label known for outfitting corporate titans and tech moguls. 'The ultrawealthy don't want to show off, and beige colors are good in that sense,' Mr. Sartori said by phone from Milan. 'This class of people is super discreet and doesn't want to be seen.' To be fashionably superrich, he suggested, is to be clad in the anodyne colors of baby food, tea cookies or screen savers: latte, oatmeal, cream, butterscotch, café au lait. 'It is all within a limited tonality — stylish, but not too much out of the perimeter of being noticeable,' Mr. Sartori said. For André de Farias, a Brazilian entrepreneur who spends winter at the Swiss resort town, the reassuring tones — restful, luxe, uncontroversial — are consistent with the overall tastes of the ultrarich. 'It's a crowd that values quality over quantity, and authenticity over showiness,' Mr. de Farias said by email. 'It's a mature kind of luxury that doesn't seek external validation.' If bold hues once were a tell for wealth, now a preference for quiet colors has evolved into a 'statement of luxury and power,' according to Filippo Ricci, the creative director of Stefano Ricci, a superluxury men's wear purveyor in Florence, Italy. 'If you want a chair in crocodile that is like a throne, we can provide it,' Mr. Ricci said. Yet, even among the crocodile-throne set, he has noticed a shift. 'My feeling is that color will eventually come back,' he said. 'But right now, everybody likes beige.' Certain members of the rarefied classes have adopted the related fashion strategy of dressing down. In particular, two social fixtures of St. Moritz — Rolf Sachs, an heir to several industrial fortunes and the proprietor of the exclusive Dracula Club, and his longtime companion, the German fashion designer and princess Mafalda of Hesse — favor what might be termed the zillionaire ragamuffin look. Whether it includes the off-the-rack parkas and old jeans that the couple favor on the slopes, or the pale sable capes some wear while ordering truffle pizza on the deck of Langosteria restaurant, the muted style now in favor among the wealthy stands in stark contrast to historical preference. During the Spanish colonial era, for instance, a carmine hue devised by the Aztec and Mayan people (and derived from an insect that feeds on prickly pear cactus) became a global commodity, as hotly traded as silver. Cochineal was the secret behind the saturated crimson of princely capes and cardinals' robes. Color itself signaled wealth. Hoi polloi wore clothes in the hues of the vegetation or the animals they were made from. The shift away from lush color as status marker is fairly recent, according to Caroline Rennolds Milbank, a fashion historian. 'In the early 20th and 19th centuries, very rich people wouldn't have wanted to wear something that was that practical,' Ms. Milbank said. 'Beige was associated with work wear and the most pedestrian of utilitarian clothes.' In keeping with the shift away from bright hues among the wealthy, the Pantone Color Institute has named 'mocha mousse' its 2025 Color of the Year. In selecting this shade, the Pantone committee was inspired by the feelings it evoked of 'comfort, indulgence and subtle elegance,' said Leatrice Eiseman, the institute's executive director. 'When we do color/word association, the creams, the taupes, the camels signify that something has longevity, lineage, is long lasting and secure,' she added. As global markets are roiled, the richest of the rich hunker down in khaki camouflage. Beige tones, said Robert H. Frank, a retired professor of economics at Cornell University and the author of 'Luxury Fever: Why Money Fails to Satisfy in an Era of Excess,' send a particular signal. 'You don't need to have bright, screaming colors to announce your presence,' he said. 'You have assets aplenty in reserve. You don't need to make a big noise.' Ask that longtime proponent of the notice-nothing look, the billionaire Italian fashion magnate Brunello Cucinelli. 'Last week, I went skiing with my family, and all our ski gear was beige, brown, Panama,' Mr. Cucinelli said from his home in Solomeo, Italy. 'I do not want to sound bigheaded, but when I first came out with these colors — a Panama corduroy suit, ecru jackets for winter — people thought, 'Only the pope can wear these colors!'' 'I'm a little shy to say it," he continued, 'but I'm convinced that I took a little bit of a part in this change of colors.' And if more and more wealthy people have suddenly decided to adopt those shades as an intrinsic part of their uniform, so much the wiser. 'Basically,' Mr. Cucinelli said, 'that displays how smart they are.'
Wall Street Journal
03-03-2025
- Business
- Wall Street Journal
This Top Fashion Designer Thinks Men's Pants Are Too Tight
Even if you don't recognize Alessandro Sartori's face, there's a good chance you've seen his shoes. Zegna's Triple Stitch leather sneakers, with crisscrossing elastics down the front in place of laces, have become the unofficial 'rich guy' shoes in recent years—light enough to be nonchalantly kicked up onto a mahogany desk after a day of dealmaking. The sneakers, which he redesigned in 2020 and can run over $1,000, are emblematic of the decidedly modern look Sartori has mastered since taking over as artistic director of Zegna in 2016. One camel cashmere overshirt at a time, Sartori is creating new power uniforms for highfliers who no longer need rigid power suits.
Yahoo
27-01-2025
- Yahoo
Sex trafficking fugitive among FBI's ‘most wanted' arrested in Lake County
A Missouri man on the FBI's '10 Most Wanted Fugitives' list was arrested in Lake County over the weekend for a license plate violation, ending nearly three years on the run from federal charges for sex trafficking his teenage daughter. Donald Fields II, 60, was in Lady Lake on Saturday morning when he was stopped by police for having a license plate attached to a pickup truck it didn't belong to that also had a fake expiration sticker. Speaking to reporters from police headquarters on Monday, Chief Steve Hunt said Fields was in a car with a woman when he was stopped by Sgt. Michelle Bilbrey. Fields then presented Bilbrey a fake expired license, but his true identity was uncovered after he was fingerprinted at the scene. Bilbrey, who was patrolling U.S. 441 at the time, said she was shocked a high-profile fugitive made his way to the small and otherwise relatively sleepy town. 'That's not something that you come across every day, so it was a little eye-opening to me that we have people like that riding around all over on our streets, especially in Lady Lake,' she said. Authorities in Franklin County, Mo., had been looking for Fields after he skipped a March 2022 court hearing ahead of a local trial in which he was accused of a litany of sex crimes committed as far back as 2011, including child molestation and rape of a minor under 14. Later that year, he was federally indicted for sex trafficking his teen daughter between 2013 and 2016 to 64-year-old Theodore Sartori, who prosecutors said was a friend of Fields. Fields was placed on the FBI's most wanted list in May 2023, with a reward for his capture set at $250,000. It's not clear how long he was in Central Florida prior to the traffic stop. 'Children from Florida and Missouri and beyond are safer today thanks to the diligence and brave actions of these officers,' FBI acting Assistant Special Agent-in-Charge Greg Federico said at Monday's press conference. Sartori is serving a 10-year federal prison sentence after pleading guilty in August to traveling with intent to engage in illicit sexual conduct. According to his plea agreement, Sartori agreed in 2013 to 'provide items of value to Fields' in exchange for sex with Fields' then-14-year-old daughter, which included 'cash, a Mustang, a motorcycle, Christmas presents and vacations.' For three years, Fields' daughter was forced to work at Sartori's home, doing recordkeeping and house cleaning while he raped her. In summer 2016, according to the plea agreement, Sartori financed a vacation in Destin, where he stayed with the Fields family while still having access to the teen. Federal prosecutors said the sexual abuse stopped when the victim turned 18. No other victims were identified, according to court filings. The victim, now 25, wrote an impact statement ahead of Sartori's sentencing: a two-page letter submitted to the court in October that does not specifically mention Fields but alludes to her family being aware of what happened. The letter, in which her name is redacted in court records, details her emotions during the years of sexual abuse and also her efforts to overcome it, including through treatment and finding a partner who she said 'understands my past and has very carefully learned to cope with it.'. 'At 25 years old, Theodore John Sartori, I am letting you go of everything you've chained and locked in my brain so I can continue to heal and can move on to the next chapter of my life,' said the letter. 'So my children can have the healthy, happy mom they deserve.'
