'Doing what I love': Malaysian fashion designer Zang Toi is living his best life

The Star

18 hours ago

One thing that Datuk Zang Toi knows best is living in the moment – and fashion design, of course.
The Kelantan-born trailblazer has built an international reputation for his bold, elegant creations.
His clients include celebrities and royalty alike.
'I'm just enjoying my life right now,' he says during a video call from New York City, where he lives.
'When I'm not travelling, I stick to a very disciplined schedule. I'm usually up by seven or eight in the morning, and with a cup of black coffee in hand, I'll read the newspaper and reply to emails or text messages.'
Despite his global success, he remains grounded. He still finds contentment in simple pleasures and the quiet rhythm of each day.
Toi treasures the little moments – an evening run in the nearby park, sketching in the hotel lobby across from his apartment, or cooking a simple dinner to wind down.
He never forgets his Malaysian roots, and still sees himself as the young boy from Kuala Krai who dared to dream big.
'My family is in Malaysia, and I have a big group of fans there. I'm still a proud Malaysian,' he says, with his trademark beaming smile.
His collections often reflect his heritage, such as the inclusion of a cheongsam design for the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection.
'There's this jade green piece with a hand-beaded silver dragon, inspired by my beloved 97-year-old mother, who has worn a cheongsam every day since she was 18,' he notes.
Toi says he is not ready to slow down just yet. Turning 64 this week, he continues to pour his energy into his work, finding joy in every stitch, sketch and show.
'I count my blessings everyday doing what I love.'
Zang Toi's Malaysian heritage often surfaces in his collections, like this cheongsam inspired by his mother's dressing. Photo: Aly Kuler How would you describe the current chapter of your career as a designer?
I have been truly blessed. This is my 36th year in business.
When I first started out in in 1989, one of my dresses was featured in Vogue by Anna Wintour, and three months later, I was selected by her to be among the new young faces of American fashion.
That put me on the fashion map. Thirty six years later, my business is still going strong.
As a matter of fact, last year was my best year.
Even though there is this view of luxury brands not doing so well in terms of sales, my label performed incredibly well.
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Is there something you are doing differently compared to other luxury brands?
I'm operating by special orders only. My designs are no longer stocked in stores.
Saks Fifth Avenue, the biggest luxury department store chain in America (which bought over rivals Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman in December last year), is allowing me to travel to all its branches in the country and put on an three-day trunk show.
I would say it's a very lucrative business model – you don't have returns, you don't have markdowns, you don't have discounts.
I'm fortunate that even after decades, the ladies still love my clothes.
They come from across America too, and they don't buy two or three pieces, they order a whole wardrobe of looks from me.
What is your secret to creating beautiful clothes that stand out, yet feel so deeply personal to your clients?
You have to combine fashion and functionality. I think when the Zang Toi name is mentioned, people immediately associate it with glamour, but I always strive to make sure that my designs look 'right' on the person wearing them.
You cannot have your creations looking too costume-y.
Most of those who wear Zang Toi know that they're guaranteed the attention, but at the same time, they are confident of not appearing as too over the top.
What is next for you? Lots of veteran designers usually release a memoir to mark their long career.
I've been approached by so many people about writing a book, but I told them I have to wait until I'm retired.
After several decades in the industry, he is still as exuberant as the young man who first stepped into New York City to pursue his fashion career. This picture shows him with one of his designs in 2020. Photo: Aly Kuler I'm such a perfectionist. If I'm going to take on something like that, I'd want it to be the best of the best.
So maybe it'll be wise to wait until I have the time to fully dedicate my attention to it.
If I were to release a memoir, I'd want it to serve as an inspiration for younger designers.
For all the kids living in a small kampung , I want to show them that they too can achieve their dreams.
I was a 'C-student' in school growing up. I just loved drawing. If I can make it, so can they.
Is that a subtle hint that you are thinking about stepping back and finally taking a well-earned break?
Not yet, but eventually I have to. I've been working for decades.
I would like to have spare time to travel further and see more of this world, before I leave it.
I think somehow there will come a time when I have to leave the stage gracefully and give space to the next generation.
Read more: 'Just do you': How Malaysian designer Bernard Chandran fashioned his success
It has been a while since your last show in Malaysia. Can we expect a big runway return sometime soon?
I have something in mind for next year, a runway showcase, but it depends on a few things coming together.
Maybe I'll move my focus to Malaysia when I'm semi-retired – and if I do, I'd love to work on launching projects that support the next generation of Malaysian designers.
Have young Malaysian designers ever reached out to you for advice on navigating the fashion industry?
Once in a while, I get students reaching out to me on social media for help and advice, but so far, no young designers.
If anyone needs advice, just reach out to me – I'm pretty good at replying to DMs (direct messages).
A good friend once told me you should never become too important to return phone calls or messages.
We Malaysians are fortunate to have several individuals making their mark internationally, like (Datuk) Jimmy Choo and (Tan Sri) Michelle Yeoh, so the younger generation should always seize any opportunity to learn from them.