
What to drink with seafood? Albariño is its natural companion
The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.
It used to be thought that the albariño grape was brought to Spain by the French monks of Cluny, but that has since been disproved, with no parentage between albariño and burgundian varieties. Rather, the grape is now believed to be an ancient variety that's native to the Iberian coast, with a naturally thick skin providing resistance to the diseases a humid climate can give rise to (alvarinho is the grape's name in northern Portugal, where it's essential in the production of easy-to-love vinho verde).
The wines it produces are direct and acidic, with an unmistakable mineral salinity. It's often unoaked, but some producers are having fun by experimenting with barrel-ageing their albariños to give them extra weight and depth. Such wines are often drunk a little later, but most albariño is designed to be drunk within a couple of years of its release.
But why August for World Albariño Day? Why not deepest, darkest winter or the yawning, stretching spring? My guess is that it's because the stuff goes down like a homesick mole and works with pretty much anything you'd want to eat when it's hot and sticky outside. Which makes sense when you think of Galician cooking, or indeed other coastal regions that grow albariño, where the cuisine is defined by seafood. What grows together goes together, and all that.
A friend of a friend in Galicia says albariño has aguja, unlike most other Spanish wines. The word translates as 'needle', and relates to the verve of top, high-acid albariño, whose unique electricity is best paired with very simple seafood, preferably cooked in salt water, as they do in Galicia.
'It's my go-to picnic wine,' says Jeff Koren, director of wine at The Chancery Rosewood in Mayfair, who loves albariño so much that he once worked a vintage at the vaunted Bodegas Albamar. 'I want to drink it with crudites, Greek salad, prosciutto or jamón with melon, while I'd pair the cool, textured, barrel-aged stuff with anything I'm eating in the summer heat.'
The grape's harmonious relationship with coastal regions has brought it to various corners of the world where the vineyards benefit from cooling maritime climates. Areas of New Zealand, California and South America are all producing their own interpretations of this wine, so there are plenty of options for your albariño day celebrations. Apologies for the rather late notice, it will almost definitely happen again.
M&S Albariño Uruguay £10 Ocado, 12%. Defined by the Uruguayan coast, this saline wine shows ripe peach and nectarine.
Adega de Moncao Trajarinho Vinho Verde £11.95 Jeroboams, 12%. A classically styled vinho verde made from alvarinho and trajadura.
Anna's Way Nelson Albariño £11.95 The Wine Society, 14%. From New Zealand, this is all orchard fruit and lively citrus.
Bodegas Albamar Albariño £28 Mother Superior, 12%. Made with natural yeasts, this is a great introduction to this experimental producer.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


The Guardian
11 minutes ago
- The Guardian
The best UK vineyards to visit this summer – and what to drink at them
English wine is flourishing: a combination of a warming climate and favourable tax breaks for investors is leading to a boom in vineyards. It's winning awards and attracting wine producers from the US and France who are buying up land, while English supermarket bubbly is becoming more affordable. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. There's a range of English and Welsh wine out there, from brioche-scented bubbly to zesty whites and even juicy, berry-fuelled reds. It's also becoming more widely available, and most of us will have no problem picking up a bottle from the supermarket, a local indie wine merchant or online. An even more enjoyable way to fill your glass is to visit a vineyard. The UK is home to more than 1,000 (with over 200 wineries making the wines), so you can have a lovely day out, buying your favourite tipple while visiting the site where it was made. Many also offer accommodation, from shepherds' huts to stately homes. I've been writing about wine for several years and have visited vineyards all over the world. There is something particularly exciting, though, about living in an emerging wine region and watching the industry develop – plus it feels good to support local enterprises. So, whether you're after a night away with a wine tasting, or just want a nice bottle of wine for a picnic or dinner party, read on for my top picks. Oxney, in the untamed beauty of the High Weald in Rye, is England's largest single-estate producer of organic wine. It makes a range of traditional-method sparkling wines (meaning made in the same way as champagne), plus a still chardonnay, and a rose and a red made from pinot noir. You can stay in vineyard-side shepherds' huts (which include a bottle of Oxney in the price), the Vineyard House (a chocolate-box-like cottage next to the vineyard) or the Oxney Barns, three converted barns that are a short drive away in Stone-cum-Ebony. You can book a stay from £350 a night (including a tour and tasting) – the perfect opportunity to enjoy wines in the surroundings in which they were made. Fancy a day trip? Check out upcoming tours and tastings at Oxney Estate Or stay nearby in Rye One look at its wine labels will tell you Tillingham is one of the cool kids on the block. It makes natural and biodynamic wines – ones made without adding chemicals, both in the vineyard and the cellar. It takes a progressive attitude to winemaking, blending science, technology and ancient practices. That approach extends across the estate, which – as well as vineyards – is home to a mixed farm (fruit trees, ancient woodland and livestock), a Michelin Green Star restaurant, a Dutch barn serving wood-fired pizza, and a former hop barn with 11 double rooms you can stay in from £215 a night B&B. There are even two bell tents in the grounds, which come with private terraces and fire pits. Fancy a day trip? Check out how to visit Tillingham Winery Or stay nearby in Rye Ashling Park is known for its traditional-method sparkling wines, but it also makes a range of still wines, including an award-winning pinot noir. It's a modern vineyard retreat that oozes style and glamour, where you can also make gin, attend a cocktail masterclass, and dine above the vines on the restaurant's balcony. Enjoy a bottle in one of its lodges, which were built by architectural designer Will Hardie, and feature a cast-iron roll-top bathtub, log burner and private terrace, where you can pour a glass and watch the sunset over your own little slice of vineyard, from £250 a night with breakfast included. Fancy a day trip? Check out tours and tastings at Ashling Park Estate Or stay nearby in Chichester Tinwood is a family-run vineyard that grows the traditional champagne grapes chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Its crisp and lively brut showcases this signature blend, without being too rich and toasty. The Tukker family used to farm iceberg lettuce at Tinwood before they transformed the land into the wine estate it is today. There are eight luxury lodges, each with a two-person whirlpool bath, a king-size bed and access to a barrel sauna. Prices start at £235 a night, which includes a continental breakfast hamper. The lodges welcome dogs, too, so you can sit with your furry friend and enjoy the beautiful Sussex countryside. Fancy a day trip? Plan a vineyard tour at Tinwood Estate Or stay nearby in Chichester Oastbrook produces award-winning sparkling and still wines, made from the main champagne grape varieties, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, as well as some lesser-known varieties such as pinot gris and pinot blanc. Stay in the award-winning Vineyard Hollow, a hillside dwelling that wouldn't be out of place in the Shire, with prices from £250 a night (with a minimum two-night stay) and additional £120 cleaning fee. The circular doors and windows open on to a landscaped garden with its own hot tub and views of the vineyard. You also have the option to stay at the new Scandi-inspired Avalon Waterside Lodge, with stays from £145 a night with a minimum two-night stay and £120 additional cleaning fee, or in the glamping field. If you feel like exploring the area, the estate is a 10-minute drive from another architectural masterpiece, Bodiam Castle. Fancy a day trip? Plan your visit to Oastbrook Or stay nearby in Hawkhurst Rathfinny is the proud producer of Sussex sparkling – low-intervention, traditional-method vintage wines, such as its blanc de blancs 2019, which is bright, lemony and elegant, and its rich, apple-and-berry-laden classic cuvee 2019. If you're coming for dinner in the estate's remote restaurant, you really ought to order another bottle and stay over (from £120 a night B&B): the Flint Barns is a self-styled 'restaurant with rooms', offering 10 doubles within the stylishly restored historic structure. For an even more homely feel, there's the cosy, country-chic Rathfinny Cottage, where four of you can sleep, full and satisfied, after a short post-dinner amble from the restaurant. The views of the Cradle valley from the estate out to sea are really something. Fancy a day trip? Plan your visit to Rathfinny Estate Or stay nearby in Alfriston This artisanal, family-run wine estate is pretty new to the British wine scene, with vines first planted in 2020, but it's becoming well-known for its fun and juicy natural wines. Five wines are produced: the zingy, tropical Solay; Little Reds, which tastes of juicy cherries, blackberries and plums; the fruity and hoppy Hop Fusion; Pinky Pinots, a dry, still rose; and the chardonnay, a green-apple-and-pear-flavoured delight – all presented with colourful arty labels. If you want to stay over in one of its four glamping pods, you'll wake to a vineyard view while still wrapped in your duvet – prices start at £125 a night (accommodation only). Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tours and tastings at Wolds Wine Estate Or stay nearby in Tollerton Black Chalk makes small batch, traditional-method sparkling wines in a crisp, pure-fruited style. The producer might be known for a down-to-earth approach to winemaking, but if you're planning to stay there via its partner Wild Escapes, get ready for an above-the-earth experience (six metres, to be exact) in one of four treehouses that overlook the vineyard. These come with king-size beds, kitchens and balconies, with stays from £272.50 a night. If you really like the idea of being at one with nature, sink into one of the open-air bathtubs. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tours and tasting at Black Chalk Or stay nearby in Stockbridge Sign up to The Filter Get the best shopping advice from the Filter team straight to your inbox. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. after newsletter promotion Denbies is one of England's largest vineyards, with a huge selection of wines from sparkling to still, dry to sweet, as well as some more unusual wines, such as the Orange Solaris – a white wine made like a red, with the grape skins left in the fermentation. The Surrey Hills Greenway Trail winds through the vineyard: within 107 hectares (265 acres) of vines, you can access seven miles of public footpath. There are 17 rooms at the Farmhouse, and more at the Brokes (dog-friendly rooms on the ground floor). Room rates start from £165 a night; both properties are in the middle of the estate. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tasting and tours at Denbies Wine Estate Or stay nearby in Dorking The land at Tuffon Hall has been worked by the same family for more than 100 years. In 2011, they planted vines and are now making award-winning wines, including one made from England's flagship grape, bacchus, and a traditional-method sparkling white wine. Now a venue for weddings, supper clubs and jazz festivals, Tuffon also has a range of accommodation (from £150 a night), including a six-bedroom farmhouse, a poacher's hut, a bothy and, most adventurously, a converted grain silo – most of which come with wood-fired hot tubs for stargazing dips. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tours and tastings at Tuffon Hall Or stay nearby in Toppesfield As well as a classic sparkling brut and a bacchus white wine, Toppesfield produces a Provencal-style rose. The accommodation is luxurious: a Scandi-style eco villa (from £240 a night with a two-night minimum stay) with a tennis court, hot tub, pizza oven and nickel bar, all three metres from the vines. The village of Toppesfield is a half-hour walk, or it's a 10-minute drive to pretty Finchingfield – among the most photographed villages in Essex. But with an honesty box wine bar stocked full of award-winning tipples from the vineyard, you probably won't want to go anywhere else. Or stay nearby in Halstead From the east bank of the River Dart in south Devon, the Sandridge Barton Estate may have the best vineyard view in England. Patchwork hills, a glimpse of the river beyond and, of course, rows of impeccably neat vines covering 182 hectares (450 acres). A range of grape varieties, including sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and pinot noir, are grown here, producing a hefty selection of wines, from still whites and reds to traditional-method sparkling wines, as well as more adventurous natural-style wines. Guests can stay at one of the estate's three properties: Sandridge Barton House, which sleeps up to 12, the 1850s Boathouse (sleeps four) and the newly renovated Lower Well Farmhouse for up to eight. Stays start from £1,000 for three nights at the Boathouse. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tastings and tours at Sandridge Barton Or stay nearby in Torquay Once a dilapidated mansion, Lympstone Manor is now a Michelin-star hotel-restaurant and wine estate owned by the acclaimed chef Michael Caines. The vineyard is planted with pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay, which produce bottle-fermented sparkling wines and, when the weather is right, small quantities of white, rose, and red wines, too. All classically dry in style, the wines are designed to pair well with food, with structure and complexity coming from careful oak-ageing. A total of 17,500 vines sweep down towards the Exe estuary, overlooked by the white manor house. Inside are 21 rooms and suites, and outside are six luxury woodland shepherd's huts, priced from £450 a night B&B. With its glittering (heated) swimming pool, sun loungers, pool house and tennis court, you could be in California. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tours at Lympstone Manor Estate Or stay nearby in Exmouth Wraxall leads its small-but-perfectly-formed range of wines with a sparkling rose, made from pinot noir grapes in the traditional method, but its still wines are delightfully quaffable, including the pale-hued, mouthwateringly fresh early pinot noir rose. It's all too easy to embrace the laid-back Somerset charm here, especially when guests who are staying are greeted with a welcome hamper that includes freshly made sourdough, local milk and butter, Somerset cheddar and, of course, a bottle of wine. Its three cottages (from £100 a night for a minimum of two nights) sleep two, four or eight people and all have views of the vines that can be enjoyed from your terrace, sundowner in hand. Fancy a day trip? Check out vineyard tours and tastings at Wraxall Vineyard Or stay nearby in Shepton Mallet Engin and Liz Mumcuoglu's vision was to make high-quality sparkling and still wine on their working arable farm in the north Cornish countryside (think swathes of wildflowers, fruit trees and perhaps a tractor trundling by). They have brought to life an impressive range: from the traditional, such as its Black Ewe white sparkling, to the wild … its electric-pink Pét-Nat sparkling wine, which tastes of sour cherries and vanilla. The vineyard has two one-bedroom lodges (one of which is dog-friendly) with wrap-around terraces, starting from £150 a night for a minimum of five nights in the summer and three nights in the winter season. If you fancy a break from the seclusion for an hour or two, you're only a short walk away from the winery bar and Barnaby's restaurant. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tours and tastings with Trevibban Mill Or stay nearby in Padstow Three Choirs makes a tasty traditional-method sparkling (a very affordable one, too, at £20) from seyval blanc, phoenix and pinot noir grapes, but its bestseller is a still white blend called Coleridge Hill, which has notes of green apple, elderflower and freshly-cut grass. The vineyard has eight Vineyard View rooms next door to its brasserie, so you can handily roll into one after dinner. Or you can stay in one of the Vineyard Lodges, which are tucked into the valley, in the middle of the vines, with floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides for full immersion – prices start from £149 (room-only). Fancy a day trip? Check out Three Choirs Vineyard's wine tasting packages Or stay nearby in Newent Jabajak makes a still white, a still red, a sparkling blush and a sparkling brut from the cool climate grape varieties seyval blanc and rondo. On the edge of the bluestone mountain range in west Wales, this family-run vineyard offers tours and tastings, where you can sample its naturally made wines. Dinner in the restaurant, the Smithy, is served Tuesday to Saturday from a locally sourced seasonal menu. With prices starting at £120 a night (with breakfast included), there are five bedrooms, which are ideal for an overnighter, but for something more spacious, the suites are beautifully decorated with a homely feel. Slipper baths and fluffy robes add a touch of class. Fancy a day trip? Check out wine tasting dates at Jabajak Or stay nearby in St Clears Sophia Longhi is an award-winning wine writer and international wine judge. She is of a good vintage and is now ageing in Brighton. Follow her on Instagram at @skinandpulp


Daily Mail
2 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Boss of world's richest travel firm proposes lotteries in popular destinations to combat overtourism
The boss of the world's richest travel firm has proposed a lottery system to help tackle overtourism. Tensions have been brewing for some time, with many locals in holiday hotspots frustrated with how busy so many destinations, like Portofino and the Canary Islands, are. Protests against overtourism erupted across the Balearics, the Canaries and mainland Spain earlier this year. There were even unsuspecting tourists in Barcelona squirted with water pistols in the city centre. But Glenn Fogel, chief executive of Booking Holdings, parent company, has suggested a possible solution. Speaking on BBC Radio Four's Today Programme on August 6, he said: 'I like the idea of a higher cost and lottery so it's not just restricted, only the elite get to visit London, I think that would be a bad thing for the world. 'Even though you may not be wealthy, you should still get a chance to visit some of the beautiful and great places of the world. 'That being said though, to maintain some balance, maybe we do need to a central lottery system too.' A similar system is used in American National Parks. For example, cabins and dorms at Phantom Ranch in Arizona's park are given out in a lottery 15 months prior. Glenn went on to explain how hopes to work alongside officials to help deal with the problem. Mr Fogel added: 'We absolutely want to work with governments to come up with a solution but at the end of the day, it's not for one company to make their own decisions about how they should or should not allow people to travel or not travel. 'That's why we have democracy and governments to come up with these methods to do this.' Presenter Will Bain asked: 'Do you do anything, in terms of on the app, pushing people to less busy destinations?' He replied: 'We absolutely give an opportunity for people to visit ... but again it's not for us to try and steer somebody some way, that's not my job. 'My job isn't to try and force somebody to go some place. 'The idea of shaping so to speak, that's to be done through our government process and if we want to do that we need to be fair.' Glenn's comments come after Europe's most famous holiday hotspots were seen in footage to be busier than ever - despite anti-tourism protests taking place across the continent. Recent images show swarms of holidaymakers packed shoulder-to-shoulder and forming huge queues waiting for trains and buses in some of the most beautiful destinations in Italy and Greece. In the Italian village of Varenna - famed for its tiny streets and colourful facades of houses - Brits have complained of crowds so dense they were barely able to reach down to take their phones out of their pockets.


Daily Mail
2 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Father says family had to take their £4,000 Lanzarote holiday without him after airline staff 'tear his passport then say it is too damaged to travel'
A father has claimed his family were forced to go on their £4,000 holiday without him after airline staff 'tore his passport' then said it was 'too damaged' to travel. Jimmy Gould, 48, was 'excited' to fly with his girlfriend Zowie Buckley, 35, his three kids and extended family to Lanzarote, Spain, for seven nights from East Midlands airport on Monday 28 July. However he said check-in staff would not let him through as his passport was 'damaged'. A sticker from a previous flight was ripped off by a member of boarding staff, he claims, causing the 10mm tear on the data page. Staff told Jimmy the document was too 'damaged' so he couldn't board, meaning the father-of-three was forced to leave his 'crying' kids and girlfriend to jet off without him. A photo shows a small white tear covering part of Jimmy's face in his passport duplicate photo from where the boarding sticker was removed. TUI confirmed passports with stickers on wouldn't be allowed to travel but claimed their agents at East Midlands are trained not to remove any stickers off passports themselves. Jimmy, who lives in Wolverhampton, West Midlands, said: 'It's a total nightmare and I'm absolutely fuming. 'I'm sitting home alone while they're in Lanzarote gutted and they all want to come home because of the situation. 'One year [passport officials] put a sticker on the duplicate photo page. I've been away for six or seven years with no problem at all. 'I got to the airport and passed all the passports over and [a staff member] pulled the sticker straight off and she ripped the page. It's a tiny little tear. 'She literally ripped my passport in front of us all and said 'you can't go'. I can't believe she just sat there and ripped my passport instead of giving me the option to tear it off properly so she wouldn't have marked it. 'She looked at me and said 'this one's damaged and you can't use this passport now'. 'It's a tiny mark and the other page is fine. My kids started crying once they realised their dad couldn't go. They want their dad there. It's just terrible and I'm absolutely devastated. 'I was so excited to make memories with my family this summer. My daughter is seven and I should be playing in the pool with her but instead I'm stuck at home on my own. They're miserable wanting their dad there. We have one holiday a year and you get excited.' After unsuccessfully trying to apply for an emergency passport the dad is now stuck at home and forced to miss out on the trip. Girlfriend Zowie admitted her holiday has been 'ruined' without having her partner there. Zowie said: 'The holiday has been ruined. The experience has been awful as we never go anywhere unless we're together. 'I'm anxious and worried about being in a foreign country on my own with three children and it has totally changed the atmosphere. 'All that money wasted and all the months saving to go away together to end up apart.' Last year, another family were prevented from flying after a man was stopped from boarding the plane due to a 'near invisible' ink stain on his passport. Charlotte Estlick had hoped to jet off from Manchester Airport for a package holiday to Dalaman in Turkey with her husband Myk, 28, and their six-year-old daughter Nyla. But after arriving at Terminal 2 to check-in on May 3, the mother-of-one claims her partner was refused travel due to his passport being lightly marked with blue ink after appearing to have got wet. Mr Estlick was told he could not fly despite having used the same passport for eight years with the marking on it with no trouble. She says the family was left with no choice but to abandon their holiday for which they had already paid £2,500. Government guidelines state a passport can be classed as damaged if details are indecipherable or if there are stains on the pages.