Looking for the perfect perfume? Well, it's synthesized on your skin

Time of India

6 hours ago

Dr Abdul Ghafur, an infectious disease expert is swabbing skin and using genetic sequencing to analyse epidermal bacteria -- not for diagnosing diseases but to recommend personalized perfumes based on an individual's unique skin microbiome.
"Understanding the skin's microbiome is revolutionising how we approach the choice of perfumes. It moves beyond simply picking a scent to a personalised, scientifically-backed approach that considers your unique body chemistry," Dr Ghafur said. In May, Dr Ghafur, who works at Apollo Hospitals in Teynampet, started Fragragenomics Biotech (P) Ltd to help people make the right perfume choices.
He launched the company owing to his interest in perfumes, his knowledge of microbiomes, and his frustration with some of the world's most famous fragrances that failed on his body.
"It was during my work on microbiomes during the pandemic that I found the reasons," he said. The skin is home to trillions of microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, that comprise your skin microbiome. "When we think of microorganisms, we think they are all bad.
That's not true. At least 99.99% of the bugs are either neutral or good for humans. Less than 0.001% cause diseases," he said.
No two people have the same composition of skin microbes.
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These microbes interact with compounds in the sweat, oils, and dead skin cells, metabolising them into volatile organic compounds. "These compounds, not sweat itself, create a unique, natural body odour. This scent fingerprint is influenced by genetics, diet, lifestyle, environment, and hormones. So everyone has a unique body odour," he said. Distilling the right perfume depends a lot on this.
While sight or sound might dominate our conscious experience, scent often triggers far more vivid recollections.
The olfactory pathways in the brain are fascinating neural routes that allow us to perceive and interpret smells. Unlike sight or hearing, the sense of smell takes a direct path to the brain, often bypassing the thalamus, which is a relay station for most other sensory information.
Dr Ghafur's passion drove him to visit numerous perfumeries both in India and abroad. "Many perfumers were happy to discuss science," he said.
The global perfume market was valued at about $50-55 billion in 2024. It's projected to touch an estimated $77-88 billion by 2032-2033, with a CAGR of about 5.3% to 5.9%. So, any scientific advancement that can attract more customers or bring in new ones is generally well-received.
Customers perceive perfumes as much more than just a pleasant smell. They are seen as complex compositions that can influence emotions, shape perceptions, trigger memories, and serve as a subtle yet powerful extension of one's identity.
"I don't feel shy to ask my patients or colleagues about the perfumes they use. Or I simply tell them the flavours in their perfume. Some think I am entering their personal space, but once I discuss science, they seem interested," he said.
A common complaint is that a perfume didn't last as long as expected. Over the past few months, he has been testing and discussing what kind of bacteria produces a strong body odour and the kinds of scent profiles that will suit them.
For instance, bacteria such as Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Propionibacterium acnes feed on the proteins, fats, and oils in the sweat, especially in armpits, groin, and feet.
They break these down into smaller, smelly molecules. When the "good" or neutral bacteria such as Micrococcus or Lactobacillus are thriving, they can help maintain a healthy skin environment, possibly by producing acids that inhibit odour-causing bacteria, or simply by not producing strong offensive smells themselves.
He offers his patients tips on the top notes – the flavours that last for up to ten minutes, the middle notes, the ones that last for about four hours, and the base notes that will last for hours to days.
The skin microbiome metagenomic test, of course, is not for everyone. "We can't tell everyone to go for testing. But we want to make them aware of how some volatile organic compounds work. The result is no one buys perfume after smelling a sheet of paper or during the two-hour layover at an airport," he said.
Dr Ghafur has made a presentation about skin microbiomes in people with diabetes – how a systemic environment can lead to a less healthy, less diverse skin microbiome, contributing to specific body odours. "Many doctors were interested. They called back too," he said.