Our Ultimate Guide to Making Ice Cream

New York Times

27-03-2025

It's surprisingly easy, and unsurprisingly so satisfying. Let Melissa Clark show you how. Angie Mosier for The New York Times Published March 27, 2025 Updated March 27, 2025
[This article was originally published on June 22, 2017.]
Without ice cream, summer wouldn't be nearly as sweet, and nothing compares to the homemade kind. Not only is it better tasting and textured, it's also endlessly customizable. You can control the flavors and sugar content, swap in nut milks, increase the number of eggs or lose them altogether. And best of all, it's not that difficult to make. We'll walk through four essential base recipes, prime for customization — custard, Philadelphia-style, nondairy and no-churn — and look at flavorings, mix-ins and toppings, to elevate how you make a summer favorite. For custard bases, you will need a medium saucepan , preferably a heavy-duty one to keep the custard's temperature even, without any egg-curdling hot spots.
A fine mesh strainer or sieve will help you strain any coagulated egg bits from custard bases, and a heatproof rubber spatula is great for stirring the bases, and for scraping them out of the pot.
If you plan to make no-churn ice cream, you will need an electric mixer or immersion blender for beating air into the base, and a food processor or blender for whipping the frozen custard into fluffy ice cream.
And, while you don't need an ice cream maker, it does yield the best results.
Wirecutter, a product recommendation site owned by The New York Times Company, has guides for picking the best ice cream makers , immersion blenders and food processors .
Ice cream makers turn a liquid base into the light, creamy treat we all know and love by churning air into it as it freezes. A paddle pulls the mixture away from the machine's cold sides, breaking up ice crystals along the way. Several models yield results, though some do a better job than others. Depending on your needs, you may look to a self-refrigerating model, one that relies on a freezer bowl or one that uses ice and rock salt. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
This style is the easiest option for making ice cream. You don't need to prefreeze a bowl or add any rock salt or ice: Just turn on the compressor, and it will do the rest. It also churns the smoothest, silkiest ice cream — even if you're using a low-fat base.
Size and price are the downsides here. Compressor machines are bigger than many microwave ovens and about five times as heavy. Many models need to be set on the counter, undisturbed, for at least 12 hours before use. Otherwise, you risk disturbing the coolant in the machine. They are also too heavy to move around much: You will need to give them a more-or-less permanent place in the your kitchen, at least during ice cream season. And, in terms of price, reliable brands cost upward of several hundred dollars.
Good for: Dedicated ice-cream makers. Enthusiastic home cooks.
Not good for: People on a budget. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
These models require a good amount of planning and freezer space. They feature a pre-frozen bowl that works in conjunction with a motorized base. (KitchenAid makes a version of the bowl, above, to be paired with its stand mixer.) But, the bowl requires at least a day in the freezer, making them less than ideal for spontaneous cravings, unless, of course, you can keep the bowl in your freezer full time. Over all, these machines work reasonably well and aren't too expensive. But the ice cream churned in them won't ever be as smooth as what you'd make in a self-refrigerating unit because they cannot maintain as cold a temperature. Once you start churning on your counter, the bowl begins losing its chill.
Good for: People in small spaces. People on a budget.
Not good for: Frequent ice cream makers. People with overstuffed freezers.
These often-sloppy models are best used outside. Some old-fashioned, hand-cranked machines rely on rock salt, ice and water, which can be an arm-fatiguing endeavor. There are electric versions of these contraptions, but they are no less messy.
Good for: When you need a lot of ice cream. (These machines can hold six quarts, as opposed to the one to two quarts most others hold.) Old-fashioned fun.
Not good for: Those who hate a mess. People with tired arms, if considering the hand-cranked models.
Ice cream starts with a base. Consider it a blank canvas made from any combination of cream, milk, sugar and, often, eggs, ready to be flavored or studded with mix-ins. These days, there are plenty of options whether you consume dairy or hate the thought of it, have an ice cream maker or don't. Here are four styles — custard, Philadelphia-style, nondairy and no-churn — plus recipes for each.
Sometimes called French-style, this base includes eggs, making it, by definition, a custard. Some particularly thick custards will use only heavy cream as the dairy element, but most classic recipes call for a combination of whole milk and heavy cream to balance the richness of the egg yolks. The eggs act as emulsifiers, giving this style a velvety feel and warding off ice crystals. And you can adjust the amount of egg to suit your taste: Less will result in a lighter base, more will make it luscious and very creamy. A classic ratio is 2 egg yolks for every cup of dairy. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
First, you'll need to temper the base: Heat the cream-milk mixture in a saucepan over medium heat until it is hot enough to melt the sugar, but not at the point of boiling. Once it's there, add a small amount of the mixture to the beaten yolks, whisking them constantly as you pour. This raises their temperature, making them less likely to curdle when added to the hot dairy. Pour the warmed yolks into the dairy mixture and stir over low heat, paying attention to the bottom and sides of the pot, which are often hotter than the center and more likely to overheat.
Use a wooden spoon or a heatproof spatula to stir the custard as it thickens, but don't use a whisk. Whisking holds the risk of beating too much air into your custard. If that happens, the mixture will become too frothy, and you won't be able to tell when it has thickened. The froth also interferes with a slow, steady cooking.
The custard is ready when it's thick enough to coat the spoon you're using. (You'll want to use a wooden or regular spoon: It's more dependable, especially if your spatula is nonstick, which may let the custard run right off.) The custard should leave a visible stripe when you run your finger through it, and the mixture should reach 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. When it has thickened, immediately strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve to remove any bits that might have curdled.
An eggless base, often referred to as Philadelphia-style or American-style ice cream, lacks the added fat of egg yolks, making it lighter than a custard. Their absence makes the base easier to prepare, and, without the eggy heaviness, lets any added flavorings shine through. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
But there is a downside to leaving out the yolks: This style can freeze rock solid and develop ice crystals. To improve the texture, many recipes call for adding liquid sugar and a small amount of alcohol, both of which deter ice crystals and help keep the ice cream from freezing into something unscoopable.
Making ice cream without traditional dairy is tricky because of the fat content and flavor of alternative milks. Almond milk, which has the mildest flavor of all nut milks, doesn't have enough fat to make an ice cream truly creamy. Coconut cream has a wonderfully high fat content, but using it alone will lend an obvious coconut flavor. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
This all-purpose base uses a formula that is part coconut cream and part cashew or hemp milk. Both milks are relatively mild and high in fat, and both blend well into an ice cream base. Of the two, hemp milk, which has a slightly higher fat content, is preferable, though it can be hard to find. Feel free to use either in our recipe.
When shopping for coconut cream, which is generally sold in cans, note that it is higher in fat than coconut milk. If you can't find it, substitute full-fat coconut milk (but not low-fat coconut milk). Never use coconut nondairy creamers, which are full of additives that can muddy the flavor.
For smooth, creamy no-churn ice cream, this is our method of choice: Whip the mixture over an ice bath until thick, about five minutes, then spoon it into ice-cube trays. Once frozen, the ice cubes will be processed in a blender with milk, creating a creamy soft-serve-style ice cream. This is best served right out of the blender, but, if you want to make it ahead of time, freeze it in a sealed container, then take it out of the freezer 20 minutes before serving. If you don't have a blender, or ice-cube trays, there are still paths to smooth, satisfying soft serve:
Bag-in-a-bag method: Fill a large freezer bag with ice and ¼ cup rock salt. (If you don't have rock salt, you can use ¾ cup of kosher salt.) Fill a smaller freezer bag with 1 cup of the chilled custard, leaving no excess air. Place the sealed custard bag inside the bag of ice, and seal. Shake gently until the custard begins to harden. You can check on it as you go: You want it to start coming together, but not freeze solid. Carefully transfer the custard bag to the freezer, or into a sealed container and then into the freezer. Freeze until firm. To avoid a leaking mess, consider double-bagging everything, and don't shake too vigorously.
Freeze-and-stir method: Choose a deep baking dish, and place it in a roomy freezer. (A metal cake or loaf pan works nicely: The more surface area, the faster the ice cream will freeze.) Fill the dish with your base. Let freeze, uncovered for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on how deep the mixture is. As it starts to freeze near the edges, use a whisk to beat it vigorously. You want to break up as many ice crystals as you can. Then smooth it out, and return it to the freezer. Continue this process, stirring vigorously every 20 to 30 minutes, for another two or three hours. Once it has frozen, transfer it to a sealed container.
All Bases: If making vanilla ice cream, slice 2 vanilla beans in half lengthwise and scrape down the sides. Add seeds and pods. For coffee ice cream, add ½ cup whole coffee beans ground coarsely in a grinder or food processor. For green tea, add ¼ cup green tea leaves to the cold cream and milk mixture. Steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Chill, or freeze, if making the no-churn version.
Custard: In a food processor, pulse together 1 cup clean and dry mint or basil leaves with ⅔ cup granulated sugar until pulverized and bright green. Use herb sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Let custard steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Chill.
Philadelphia-Style and No-Churn: In a food processor, pulse together 1 cup of clean and dry mint or basil leaves with ½ cup granulated sugar until pulverized and bright green. Use herb sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Chill, or freeze, if making no-churn version.
Nondairy: In a blender, combine 1 cup clean and dry mint or basil leaves with coconut cream and hemp milk. Use herb cream and milk to make the base; let steep for 30 minutes off the heat before straining. Chill.
Custard: Break a 4-inch-long cinnamon stick (preferably a fragrant variety like Ceylon or canela) in a food processor. Add ⅔ cup granulated sugar and pulse until finely ground. Use cinnamon sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Chill.
Philadelphia-Style, Nondairy and No-Churn: Break a 4-inch-long cinnamon stick (preferably a fragrant variety like Ceylon or canela) into a food processor. Add ½ cup granulated sugar and pulse until finely ground. Use cinnamon sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Chill, or freeze, if making the no-churn version.
Custard: In a food processor, pulse together zest of 3 lemons or limes with ⅔ cup granulated sugar until smooth and brightly colored. Use citrus sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Let custard steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Stir in the juice and zest of 1 lemon or lime. Chill.
Philadelphia-Style: In a food processor, pulse together the zest of 3 lemons or limes with ½ cup granulated sugar until smooth and brightly colored. Use citrus sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining, and stir in the juice of 1 lemon or lime. Chill.
Nondairy: In a food processor, pulse together zest of 3 lemons or limes with ⅔ cup granulated sugar until smooth and brightly colored. Use citrus sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Let custard steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining. Stir in the juice and zest of 1 lemon or lime. Chill.
No-Churn: In a food processor, pulse together zest of 3 lemons or limes with ½ cup granulated sugar until smooth and brightly colored. Use citrus sugar instead of plain sugar to make the base. Let custard steep off the heat for 30 minutes before straining; freeze. When pulsing cubes; pulse in juice of 1 lemon or lime, and 2 tablespoon milk.
Your ice cream's sweetness — and what's used to achieve it — is yet another variable. Don't feel limited to using granulated sugar alone. Brown sugar, maple syrup and honey are just a few of the sweeteners you can use to taste, and just another way to make your ice cream base your own. There's no right or wrong way here, so feel free to experiment. Karsten Moran for The New York Times
There are two ways to sweeten your ice cream: solid and liquid sugar. Solid sugars — granulated, brown and maple — are more prone to crystallization. They must be dissolved into the liquid mixture before churning. Liquid sugars — like corn syrup, trimoline, honey, agave, maple syrup and molasses — help prevent crystallization. For the best texture, many recipes call for combining granulated sugar, which has the cleanest-tasting sweetness, with a liquid sugar — especially when eggs aren't used in the base.
Adding sugar to your ice cream base is all about taste. How sweet do you like it? Once you've hit the perfect sweetness, go a bit further. You'll want to make the base slightly sweeter because freezing will dull its sweetness. Keep in mind that the amount of each sweetener needed will vary. For example, honey or agave are far sweeter than corn syrup, so where you would use ½ cup of corn syrup, you would need only ⅓ cup honey or agave. Whatever the recipe, add sugar tentatively, tasting as you go.
Granulated sugar: The most neutral sweetener, with a pure, clean flavor that lets other flavors shine.
Brown sugar: Different brown sugars will add a mineral, molasses flavor. Light brown, dark brown, demerara, turbinado and muscovado all have slightly different tastes.
Maple sugar: This will lend a maple flavor to your ice cream, but, unlike maple syrup, it must first be dissolved into hot liquid. It carries a similar level of sweetness to light brown sugar and can be used interchangeably.
Corn syrup: This has a relatively neutral flavor that is less sweet than sugar, with a very slight metallic taste. It's what you'll need for most ice cream recipes, though the dark variety can be used in chocolate ice creams.
Trimoline: This liquid sugar is made from sugar beets and/or sugar cane, and is sweeter and more cleanly flavored than corn syrup. It's worth seeking out if you want to take your eggless ice creams to the next level. Use a little less if substituting it for corn syrup in a recipe.
Honey: Sweeter than corn syrup, honey has a pronounced, floral complexity. Use it only when you want the intensity of its flavor. It goes well with ice creams infused with herbs, vanilla, nuts, bourbon, rum and spices.
Agave: Similar to honey in its degree of sweetness, it has a more caramelized flavor with a slight tangy bitterness. It goes well with banana, peanut butter and other nut pastes, and spices.
Maple syrup: This, too, will lend a maple flavor to your ice cream, which is especially nice when making ice cream with toasted nuts or spices. To make maple ice cream, some professionals advise reducing the syrup to concentrate its flavor. Bring it to a simmer over medium heat and let it cook down by a third. Let cool and use it to taste instead of regular maple syrup.
Molasses: A thick sweetener with a deep, earthy, mineral flavor that can also be slightly bitter. It pairs well with ginger (think gingerbread). Use this sparingly, in combination with milder sweeteners.
Mixing nuts, candy and other goodies into your ice cream more evenly distributes them than just putting them on top. Add ½ cup to 1 cup during the last minute of churning. Just about any of these items could also be used as a topping, but isn't a mix-in just more fun?
Nuts: You can add raw, toasted or candied nuts to your ice cream: Just be sure to chop them a bit before adding. Coconut flakes or thinly sliced nuts also work well. Almonds, cashews, peanuts, pecans, pistachios and walnuts are all classics. Walnuts offer the softest texture and taste great toasted. It's all right to use salted nuts, but remember that those will salt your ice cream.
Chocolate: Chunks of chocolate are wonderful in most flavors of ice cream. You can incorporate chunks, chips or, better yet, mini chips. It all depends on how much texture you like. Another option is shaved chocolate, which you can make by running a chocolate bar over a grater. And you need not stick to bittersweet: Look for butterscotch or white chocolate as well.
Candy: For the sweet-toothed, candy takes ice cream to another level. Classic ice-cream candies include chopped peanut butter cups, Heath bar bits, toffee bits, chopped peppermint patties, malted milk balls, mini marshmallows. Small pieces of cookie dough are also great, but it's safest to use an eggless dough.
Sauces: Anything from chocolate fudge sauce to marshmallow fluff to dulce de leche to strawberry jam can be swirled into your ice cream with a spatula after churning. Don't overmix. You want the swirl in sauce to remain distinct from the base, giving you appealing veins of gooey richness amid the cream.
Making ice cream doesn't need to be complicated: The greatest challenge is keeping ice crystals from forming, and even that doesn't need to be too hard. Keeping in mind a few techniques can help you achieve a creamy texture worthy of an ice-cream parlor from your own kitchen.
No matter what kind of ice cream maker you use, be sure to get the custard as cold as possible before adding it to the machine. If you're using a self-refrigerating model, always chill the bowl before adding the custard. (You can probably do this by turning a switch on your machine; check the manual.) And when using a freezer-bowl model, always take the bowl out of the freezer just before churning; you don't want to give it any chance to warm up. If you can make the custard the day before churning, an overnight rest in the refrigerator is ideal.
The longer ice cream is churned, the more air is whipped into it. The more air, the fluffier and less rich it's going to be. For a rich base, churn for the minimal amount of time, making sure the custard and machine are as cold as possible. For an airy base, churn slightly longer. Remember that the ice cream will firm up in the freezer and shouldn't be completely frozen in the machine. When it looks like soft serve, it's done.
If you've churned and churned and your ice cream is not coming together, it almost always means you didn't start with a cold enough base. Your ice cream will look slightly thick but not thick enough. While this won't occur with a compressor (self-refrigerating) machine, which chills as it churns, it can often happen with a freezer-bowl machine. In this case, you don't want to keep churning and hoping for the best. The freezer bowl will get only warmer. You'll need to refreeze the bowl before trying again. Pour the ice cream into a container and put it in the fridge until the bowl is ready, then rechurn.
Once you have your ice cream, storing and serving are your next — and final — considerations. How long you can keep your ice cream frozen depends on its variety and how cold your freezer is. Stored properly, most ice creams will last anywhere from week to a month.
There are several good ways to store ice cream. Loaf or cake pans covered tightly in plastic wrap work well for one to two days. Metal ones are best for recipes that require fast freezing because they get cold quickly. Plastic bags provide a better seal. (Tip: You can peel back the plastic bag and easily cut the ice cream into chunks.) You can also use any sealed container, glass or plastic, as long as the ice cream fits snugly within. Whatever you choose, freeze your ice cream immediately so that it can cool quickly and evenly.
If you notice your ice cream crystallizing, but the flavor is still good, let it melt in the refrigerator so it remains cold, then rechurn it in your ice cream maker. That will restore its texture at least for another few days.
It's best to temper your ice cream before serving, that is, let it soften either in the refrigerator or at room temperature, so its texture becomes supple and silky and it becomes easier to scoop. A pint of ice cream will need 5 to 10 minutes at room temperature or anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour in the fridge to soften. Larger containers of ice cream will take a little longer to temper.
If you need to cheat a bit of the softening time, you can run your ice cream scoop (if it's metal) under hot water for several seconds. This will heat up the metal and help it cut through the ice cream.
Wirecutter, a product recommendation site owned by The New York Times Company, has suggestions for choosing the best ice cream scoop .