Unsung market town in Wales that's great for hiking, biking and epic Sunday lunches

North Wales Live

5 hours ago

As I navigated the rolling hills of Mid Wales, the scenery began to subtly transform. The narrow roads meandered through steep valleys, alongside dense forests, and over historic stone bridges that crossed swift streams.
After journeying past farmlands and small clusters of homes, I found myself in Rhayader, the first town on the River Wye.
Rhayader is a hidden gem, home to the stunning dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys. This underrated market town is a perfect base for biking, hiking and wildlife spotting.
It has stayed true to its agricultural heritage and remains a vital hub for the farming community, with a bustling livestock market serving a large rural area.
Historically, Rhayader has been a rest stop for weary travellers in Mid Wales, serving as a staging post for drovers and those journeying the lengthy route from London to Aberystwyth, reports Wales Online.
Today, it's known as the gateway to the Elan Valley, located just outside the expansive estate. It's a handy base with a variety of independent shops, cafés, and pubs, and also brands itself as the 'outdoors capital of Wales'.
This spot is certainly one of my favourite places in Wales for an exhilarating bike ride followed by a hearty Sunday lunch at one of the many local pubs. Join the North Wales Live WhatsApp community group where you can get the latest stories delivered straight to your phone
Here's how to make the most of a visit to Rhayader.
Shopping
The main street hosts a compact shopping area where you can peruse a range of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.
Hafod Hardware, a family-run hardware store with a vintage feel that has been in operation since 1895, is one of the more unique shopping experiences available here.
In addition to standard DIY items and kitchenware, you can also find vintage-style tourism prints of Wales and, rather more predictably, specially-made Elan Valley mugs and chocolate bars.
Quillies, a local craft shop, is worth a visit for its beautiful locally-made crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery and fused glass.
Family-run No 8 Clothing offers a retail fix with men's, women's, and children's clothing, accessories and gifts across two floors. It stocks well-known brands such as Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.
River Wood is a glorious place - the UK's only gallery-bookshop dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places, filled with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. Upstairs, there's a working artist's studio and space for creative workshops.
For outdoor gear, Hill Walking provides a good selection of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers, all suitable for walking in Wales' unpredictable weather conditions.
Explore the dams
Rhayader serves as the entrance to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the area's Victorian dams nestled amongst rolling green hills. Constructed over a century ago to quench the thirst of a rapidly urbanising Birmingham, these unique gravity dams attract photographers from far and wide, eager to capture their cascading waters.
The tale of the Elan Valley originates in the late 19th century when Birmingham, a bustling city at the peak of the industrial revolution, was expanding at an unprecedented rate.
In desperate need of a reliable and clean water source, engineers turned their attention to the remote Elan Valley. With its high rainfall and steep, narrow landscape, the valley was the ideal location for a series of reservoirs.
In 1892, one of the most ambitious water supply projects of its era commenced. Over 3,000 workers were employed to construct dams, reservoirs and aqueducts by hand, aided by steam-powered machinery. By the time the project was completed in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a significant transformation.
Four main dams were built – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a feat of engineering, constructed from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.
For instance, the Caban Coch Dam, viewed from afar, appears to be a natural cliff face. However, up close, its sheer size and the sound of water tumbling over its edge are nothing short of breathtaking.
The reservoirs themselves, vast and deep bodies of water, mirror the surrounding hills and sky, creating a picturesque spot.
A map of the estate can be obtained from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to suggest scenic routes to view the dams. The optimal time to leisurely drive around the estate is after heavy rainfall - a common occurrence in Wales - when the reservoir water cascades over the steep, 'Birmingham Baroque'-style structures.
Fancy being guided by a local expert? You can arrange a custom tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris and discover all the hidden nooks with a local guide. Stay updated
Cycle the Elan Valley trail
One of the top ways to explore Elan Valley is by walking or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the route of the old railway that transported materials to the valley during the dam's construction.
Today, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the valley's most scenic spots. Starting in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you'll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan's finest Victorian dams.
The linear trail is mostly level, save for a few inclines, with several tarmacked stretches making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children.
If you fancy a bit of assistance on your journey, why not hire an E-bike in Rhayader and glide through the valley with ease?
For those without their own bikes, the market town of Rhayader offers rental services from Neil's Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. With the trail taking approximately three hours to complete, a half-day bike hire should provide ample time for photo opportunities and coffee breaks.
The route ascends 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing the awe-inspiring Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When full, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch – a sight worth capturing on camera.
Go Wildlife watching
Rhayader is ideally situated for wildlife spotting, being adjacent to the wildlife-rich Elan Valley where red kites can often be seen soaring above the town.
The nearby Elan Estate is owned by Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water, but a significant portion is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to provide clean water, it also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for visitors.
Over 80% of the valley is designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with wildlife and boasting remarkable landscapes.
The Elan Valley is a sanctuary for an array of wildlife, thanks to its varied habitats and meticulous management. The valley's forests, moorlands, and wetlands are home to a diverse range of species including birds, mammals, insects and plants.
Bird enthusiasts will be thrilled by the variety of species that can be spotted here. Waterfowl such as tufted ducks, great crested grebes, and goosanders are drawn to the reservoirs, while woodpeckers and nuthatches inhabit the surrounding woods.
The expansive moorland serves as a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons seen soaring high above.
For a closer view of the resident red kites, head to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, making it the best spot in the UK to see and photograph these magnificent birds (including the rare leucistic red kites).
Small-scale cattle farming also plays a vital role in the Elan Valley. Today, only a few farms continue this practice. Keep your eyes peeled and you'll spot cattle grazing freely on the open hills and in some enclosed habitats.
The flora of the Elan Valley is equally impressive. Dense forests house ancient oaks and the moorlands are blanketed in a mix of heather, bilberry, and mosses.
In the spring and summer, the valley's meadows come alive with wildflowers, adding a burst of colour to the landscape. Sign up for the North Wales Live newsletter sent twice daily to your inbox
Try stargazing
Did you know that Rhyader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world's darkest, clearest, and least polluted skies?
The Elan Valley, with its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately-owned yet publicly-accessible park globally to achieve this.
This prestigious status now ensures that the Elan Valley is shielded from light pollution, providing a safe haven for the wealth of wildlife and nature found within the estate.
Since receiving its dark sky designation, the Elan Valley is now acknowledged as one of the premier stargazing destinations worldwide and has been highlighted in numerous stargazing guides, talks, and books.
But what does this mean in pactice? Simply put, it means minimal light pollution and such clear skies that you can see the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.
The valley's secluded location and considerate conservation efforts make it an exceptional spot for those seeking a deeper connection with the cosmos. Here, you'll discover several prime locations for stargazing. Each offers a unique perspective on the night sky, whether you're a casual observer or a passionate astrophotographer.
Craig Goch Dam car park: A popular spot with wide open views, it's ideal for seeing the Milky Way or setting up for long-exposure photography.
Claerwen Dam: Known for its dramatic backdrop, this site combines the grandeur of Victorian engineering with the infinite beauty of the stars above.
Teifi Pools: Remote and serene, these pools reflect the starlight, creating a mesmerising experience.
Pont ar Elan: Easily accessible yet wonderfully secluded, it's a fantastic spot to gaze at constellations or catch a meteor shower.
Bring a red-light torch to maintain your night vision and allow your eyes 20 minutes to adjust to the darkness for the full experience.
For a more engaging experience, consider attending organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography. The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales regularly host guided tours and workshops offering expert insights and access to telescopes.
For dark sky events, check out the Elan Valley's What's On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).
Eating and drinking in Rhayader
Pop into The Lost ARC for lunch and coffee in this quirky community café. Be sure to order my favourite – a delicious Welsh rarebit consisting of toasted bread covered in warm, mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a touch of laverbread and mustard.
They also offer coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a wide selection of vegan options. By evening, this trendy establishment transforms into a live music venue showcasing emerging acts and hosting popular pizza nights.
The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a traditional family-run tea room and cake shop providing a lovely spot for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Give their incredibly tasty chicken curry made from a family recipe a try.
For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown for generous servings of meat and veg and a Yorkshire pudding. This is Sunday lunch as Mam would make it – no-nonsense, satisfying, and with plenty of gravy. You certainly won't leave hungry.
The Historic Triangle, a beautiful 16th-century drover's inn located in Cwmdauddwr, is a short stroll away. Here you'll find a roaring fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food including several pub classics.
Another good spot for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries is The Lamb and Flag, while the bright green Elan Hotel also has a decent selection of drinks at their bar.
Where to stay
Mid Wales Holiday Lets
These reasonably-priced holiday lets can sleep up to 44 people with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch all available.
The handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together in the Elan Valley area. They are also well-equipped for cyclists, offering secure bike storage to keep your gear safe.
After a long day of hitting the trails you can unwind in the bubbly outdoor hot tub, which is perfect for soothing those aching muscles.
Ty Morgans
For a stay in the heart of Rhayader, Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that blends traditional charm with a modern feel. This boutique and well-priced accommodation is situated at the crossroads of Rhayader, making it a perfect base for exploring the town and the Elan Valley area.
It is thoughtfully designed, incorporating original features like oak beams and stone fireplaces while offering all the modern amenities you'd expect including en suite bathrooms.
Ty Morgans is a delightful spot that boasts an on-site bar and restaurant, serving everything from hearty Welsh breakfasts to evening meals. Its central location means you're just a stone's throw away from local shops, pubs, and the Riverside Walk.
Elan Valley Hotel
Just a short drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel offers a perfect blend of comfort and convenience in a boutique hotel setting.
Here, guests can enjoy well-furnished rooms with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed for comfort, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.
The hotel's restaurant is famed for its exceptional menu, which uses locally-sourced ingredients to provide a truly authentic taste of Wales. It's the ideal location for easy access to the Elan Valley's numerous trails and reservoirs, all while enjoying a touch of luxury.
Getting to Rhayader
Rhayader, the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily reachable from various parts of Wales and England.
By car: If you're driving, Rhayader is well-connected via the A470 and A44, making it a scenic road trip from cities like Cardiff (around two and a half hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (around 90 minutes).
The roads into Mid Wales wind through picturesque countryside, so allow a little extra time for slower rural routes and photo stops.
By public transport: Train and bus services are available, albeit limited due to the rural location. The closest train station is situated in Llandrindod Wells, approximately 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales.
From there, a local bus can be taken to reach Rhayader. For further details and timetables, consult Traveline Cymru or utilise transport apps to assist in planning your journey.