This breezy new beach spot from a top Italian chef ‘feels made to go from surf-to-seat'

The Age

26-05-2025

So this is Cibaria, the latest venture from creative director Alessandro Pavoni and the crew behind Ormeggio at The Spit, Osteria Postino in Summer Hill and a'Mare at Crown. It's quite an undertaking. There's standalone bar, 55 North, doing a steady trade in 𝄒nduja-washed negronis and lobster rolls. The cafe-gelateria is a destination unto itself; a dedicated function space upstairs is set to cater for big groups. And, of course, there's the actual restaurant. Altogether, the crew are making a strong case for Manly as a destination beyond the beach.
Local designer Luchetti Krelle captures all the best bits of Australian life by the coast – the space is open, breezy, and feels made to go from surf-to-seat – with real sprezzatura. Tiled floors meet buttery leather and linen banquettes. Marble-topped tables and the generous curves of Daumiller chairs overlook the ocean on one side and the open kitchen ruled by a wood-fire grill on the other. Just the right amount of Italo disco, just the right amount of surf club.
The menu gives generously when it comes to exciting, saucy carbs and scorched treats. Hook straight in and order the puffy, wood-fired pizzette, drenched in so much smoky-sweet sugo you can use it as a dip. Unconventional but delicious serving suggestion: order the squid ink spaghetti tossed with torn-up crab meat, chilli, bread crumbs, parmesan and parsley at the same time. With just the right amount of richness and warmth, and a cool pizzette counterpoint.
Stay on the left-hand side of the carte for a beat if you want to linger over a glass of fizz. Perhaps a serve of raw scallops on the shell, dressed with finger lime, chervil and salmon roe. Or maybe it'll be raw kingfish, dressed with baby capers, chives and kalamata olives.