Food Picks: Soulful traditional Teochew flavours at Chaoshan Xiaochi
(Clockwise from top left) Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette, Pig Trotter Terrine, Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish, Teochew Crystal dumplings, Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
SINGAPORE – No-frills eatery Chaoshan Xiaochi offers a tight but punchy selection of traditional Teochew fare and snacks in small servings.
The Teochew owner, Singaporean Ricky Koh, 69, used to run a 200-seat Teochew restaurant in Shun Li Industrial Estate. which closed in December 2021 when the lease ended during the Covid-19 pandemic. After three years of retirement, he opened Chaoshan Xiaochi, an ode to traditional Teochew fare, served in small plates and through homely snacks.
It is no exaggeration to say the eatery's show-stopping Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette ($8) is divine. A strong fire, sufficient pork oil, lashings of quality fish sauce from Swatow are the secrets to turning sweet potato starch slurry into savoury crisp pancakes topped with plump succulent oysters.
Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette at Chaoshan Xiaochi.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Another unmissable item is the gelatinous Pig Trotter Terrine ($12). Made in-house by the eatery's head chef from Swatow every three to four days using hind pork and fish gelatin, it is served chilled in generous slices and comes with a satisfying wobble and a clean, meaty finish.
Pig Trotter Terrine at Chaoshan Xiaochi.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Another textural delight is Teochew Crystal Dumplings ($10 for six), imported from a specialist kueh maker in Swatow. Each dumpling has a translucent, chewy skin that does not stick to the teeth. Flavours include bamboo shoots, garlic chives, pumpkin, purple sweet potato and red bean. Fillings rotate randomly but all are flavourful and well-balanced.
There are five flavours of Teochew Crystal Dumplings.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Even the greens shine. The Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish ($12) uses tender baby kailan from Hong Kong and premium ti poh (sole fish). Blanched just right, the dish is clean-tasting yet deeply savoury.
Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish at Chaoshan Xiaochi.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Offal lovers will relish Large Pig Intestine With Preserved Vegetable ($10) and Pork Tripe Soup ($10).
Pork Tripe Soup With Preserved Vegetable at Chaoshan Xiaochi.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Both use house-washed offal – meticulously cleaned and brimming with flavour from sour mustard greens.
Large Pig Intestine Stir Fried With Preserved Vegetable at Chaoshan Xiaochi.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
The eatery conjures up a superb take on Cai Por Kway Teow (Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish, $12), fried using a combination of sweet and salty preserved radish. Each strand of kway teow is infused with pork oil, cai por and the elusive wok hei, without a single burnt strand – proof of a deft hand at the wok. Slices of kailan, glossy not greasy with pork oil, lend emerald accents to the dish.
Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Order Mi Lan Xiang tea ($3 a person) to go with the meal. It is a personal favourite of Mr Koh, a tea aficionado who selected it during a trip to Phoenix Mountain in Chaozhou, a region famed for its floral oolongs. The fragrant brew is a fitting match for a soulful meal steeped in tradition.
To top it off, there is no GST or service charge – just great food, made with heart.
Chaoshan Xiaochi in Geylang.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Where: 749 Geylang Road
MRT: Paya Lebar
Open: 11.30am to 9pm daily
Tel: 8839-0247
Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories.
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