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Home cafes in Singapore: Young brewers serving matcha and kopi
Home cafes in Singapore: Young brewers serving matcha and kopi

Straits Times

time4 days ago

  • Business
  • Straits Times

Home cafes in Singapore: Young brewers serving matcha and kopi

Mr Alvin Lee runs home cafe Soop Soop Coffee, selling coffee and drinks for takeaway to customers who pre-order their drinks. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Grace Teo runs home cafe Brew With Grace where she serves specialty coffee and matcha drinks. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Grace Teo runs home cafe Brew With Grace where she serves specialty coffee and matcha drinks. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Grace Teo runs home cafe Brew With Grace where she serves specialty coffee and matcha drinks. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Left to right: Ms Chelsea Ang, Ms Zann Siow and Mr Thomas Lim who run Whisk & Waddles. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Left to right: Ms Chelsea Ang, Ms Zann Siow and Mr Thomas Lim who run Whisk & Waddles. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Home cafe Knead Kopi offers light bites and drinks such as Kopi Guyu, Kaya Set, Ahma Ang's Fried Beehoon, and Curry Chicken with Baguette. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Rachel Neo and Mr Glenndon Khoo run Knead Kopi at the front porch of a terrace house in Bukit Timah. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Mr Joshua Simon runs home cafe Baobei Coffee out of his HDB flat in Tampines. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO hkhome31 - Iced White Coffee at home cafe Brew With Grace. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO THE STRAITS TIMES SPH MEDIA EDITORIAL USE ONLY The Straits Times hkhome31 - Iced White Coffee at home cafe Brew With Grace. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO THE STRAITS TIMES SPH MEDIA EDITORIAL USE ONLY The Straits Times SINGAPORE – The hottest trend in Singapore's cafe scene is not housed behind floor-to-ceiling glass windows or nestled within heritage shophouses. It is brewing on front porches and in HDB flats in residential estates islandwide. Since late 2024, a batch brew of cosy home cafes has been started by young Singaporeans eager to share their passion for coffee and matcha, without the financial burden of operating a full-fledged commercial outfit. Some view these micro set-ups as stepping stones to hosting future pop-ups. Others treat these ventures as a way to opt out of the rat race, attempt a slower life, stay close to family and build community over homemade drinks and food. Home cafe owners observe that customers come not just for the drinks or food, but for the experience. The appeal lies less in the menu and more in the chance to step into someone else's world – to see how others live, and to connect in a more personal setting. Most of these home cafe owners say they have no plans to move into bricks-and-mortar spaces , citing high rents and operating costs. With no goods and services tax , service charge or rent, home cafes can offer drinks 20 to 40 per cent cheaper than commercial outlets, even when using quality ingredients such as real fruit and Uji matcha. But with limited volumes, most home brewers buy supplies at retail prices and operate on razor-thin margins. Mr Alvin Lee, 33, who runs home cafe Soop Soop Coffee out of his mother's four-room HDB flat in Yishun, says: 'It's not sustainable if you're in it for profit.' Coffee beans alone make up 40 per cent of his operating costs. Brew With Grace operates from a five-room Build-To-Order flat in Sengkang. Ms Grace Teo, 36, pays over $80 for a 100g packet of ceremonial-grade matcha by Marukyu Koyamaen in Kyoto, which is often out of stock. She says she makes mere cents from each drink. Still, these home cafe owners persevere – not for profit, but for purpose. Ms Teo says: 'I feel richer for the experience. It gives me something to focus on – and I'm in a better place now.' Here are some to hit this weekend. Pours on the porch In Yio Chu Kang, Whisk & Waddles opened on March 16 on a terraced house's porch. Operating exclusively on Sundays, it began as a project by three third-year law undergraduates from the National University of Singapore: Ms Zann Siow, 22; Ms Chelsea Ang, 22; and Mr Thomas Lim, 24. The trio launched it as part of a school business module. (From left) Ms Chelsea Ang, Ms Zann Siow and Mr Thomas Lim, who run Whisk & Waddles. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The idea for a home cafe specialising in matcha came from Ms Siow, who has been crafting matcha drinks since 2020 as a hobby and tinkering with making syrups from fresh fruit and tea. Both Ms Ang and Mr Lim live in HDB flats, so the group turned to Ms Siow's parents, who agreed to let them use the front porch of their terrace house in Yio Chu Kang. But first, clear ground rules were set. Customers are limited to the porch, which accommodates up to 15 people. Orders are placed via a Google form and the home address is revealed only upon payment of pre-orders. Drinks are prepared in the kitchen and served outside, where guests can play card games that are lying around, such as Exploding Kittens and The Singaporean Dream. The trio pooled together $480 to buy second-hand garden furniture, utensils and ingredients. The matcha is from Kyoto and coffee beans are sourced from a local roaster. Prices start at $4 for the Winter Dew (matcha without milk), while Rosy Tuxedo (Strawberry Matcha Latte) and Frosty Earl (Earl Grey Matcha Latte) go for $6.40 each. (From left) Rosy Tuxedo, a strawbery matcha latte; Frosted Earl, an Earl Grey matcha latte; and Glacial Green, a matcha latte, at Whisk & Waddles. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Where: Yio Chu Kang Open: 11am to 5pm (Sundays) Info: @whisknwaddles on Instagram Kopi, kaya and grandma Knead Kopi opened in March with very personal goals. Its founders – Ms Rachel Neo, 25, and her boyfriend Glenndon Khoo, 25 – wanted to spend more time at home with Ms Neo's 84-year-old grandmother, who has dementia. Ms Rachel Neo and Mr Glenndon Khoo run Knead Kopi at the front porch of a terrace house in Bukit Timah. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Neo, who has a business degree from the University of Newcastle, which she studied for at PSB Academy, had run a home bakery since 2020. After a short stint as a management trainee at a pastry chain, she found corporate life 'not her cup of tea' and returned to baking full-time. Wanting to stay close to her grandmother, she and Mr Khoo set up a cafe on the family's terrace porch in Watten Rise in Bukit Timah. Mr Khoo, who is studying part-time for a degree in sports and exercise science at PSB Academy, suggested brewing traditional Nanyang kopi to stand out from other home cafes serving speciality coffee. They learnt to brew both traditional and speciality coffee from Ms Neo's barista uncle. Mr Glenndon Khoo makes Nanyang kopi at home cafe Knead Kopi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Then they spent $3,000 in savings, earned from part-time jobs, to build a sheltered awning, and another $1,000 on folding chairs, camping tables, a food display case and traditional kopi-making equipment, including coffee socks, pots and electric warmers. They source their coffee powder from a local roaster. A hot Kopi O starts at $1.60. Bestsellers include Yuan Yang and Kopi Guyu ($2 for hot, $2.50 for cold). Kopi Guyu at Knead Kopi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO For children and non-coffee drinkers, there is the Milo Special ($4) – a Milo Dinosaur with chocolate drizzle. Milo Special at Knead Kopi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO As demand grew for small bites to accompany the drinks, the couple introduced a Kaya Set ($8.50), which includes four pieces of baguette, a small tub of homemade kaya, two soft-boiled eggs and a hot drink. They make the kaya from scratch using home-grown pandan leaves and each batch takes three hours to prepare. Kaya Set at Knead Kopi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Other menu items include Curry Chicken with Baguette ($8.50) and Ahma Ang's Fried Beehoon ($4.50), made from her grandmother's recipes. Bakes such as Mochi Brownie and Banana Walnut Loaf ($5 each) are on rotation. Home cafe Knead Kopi offers light bites and drinks such as Kopi Guyu, Kaya Set, Ahma Ang's Fried Beehoon and Curry Chicken with Baguette. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Neo, a self-described homebody, finds comfort in working entirely from home. 'I get to spend time with my grandmother, who joins me in the kitchen when I am baking. During lulls, we paste the logo stickers on paper cups together,' she says. Their customer base is varied, from parents of school-going kids grabbing a quick takeaway before work to those working from home on a coffee run to dog walkers. Water bowls are provided for pets. The cafe attracts residents in the neighbourhood, including those walking their dogs. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO One customer is Ms Elena Lin, 34, a project manager who lives nearby. She visits Knead Kopi weekly, with her baby daughter and golden retriever in tow. 'It feels like visiting neighbours,' she says. She was drawn in on opening day after noticing a small crowd. She enjoys the friendly kampung-like vibe. 'At a regular cafe, people keep to themselves. Here, I chat with Rachel and other customers. Her grandmother sometimes plays with my baby.' The lack of GST or service charge is another plus. 'I bring friends here. It is trendy to go to home cafes. Even without air-conditioning, it is comfortable and feels more personal. It's not a cookie-cutter experience.' Where: 7 Watten Rise Open: 7.30am to 5pm (Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays), 7am to 5pm (Saturdays) Info: @kneadkopi on Instagram Safe relaxing space Ms Grace Teo, 36, runs Brew With Grace out of her five-room BTO flat in Sengkang, which she co-owns with her software engineer husband. The former barista of Monday Coffee Bar opened her own home cafe in December 2024 after health and mental wellness struggles. She wanted to create a restorative space that was part-cafe, part-refuge. Her home is styled like a small cottage. Studio Ghibli soundtracks play softly to a stream of countryside scenes beamed from a projector. A British shorthair cat named Totoro takes languid naps on the couch. Ms Grace Teo runs home cafe Brew With Grace, where guests can chill out with her cat, Totoro. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO 'It's not about the drinks – it's about the space I can share,' says Ms Teo. She has a degree in 3D animation and fine arts from the Singapore Institute of Technology and previously worked as a 3D lighting artist. The cafe's rose logo symbolises love. 'It is a reminder to myself to make each cup of coffee with love,' she says. She keeps her menu small – just five drinks – and operates Wednesdays to Fridays to avoid overextending herself. Her home set-up includes a $3,000 Lelit Bianca espresso machine, which she bought when she moved in. Drinks start at $3 for black coffee. Her bestsellers are Strawberry Matcha Oat and Yuzu Matcha Oat ($5.50 each), made with ceremonial-grade matcha and oat milk. (From left) Strawberry Matcha Oat and Yuzu Matcha Oat at home cafe Brew With Grace. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Though the cafe serves only a handful of guests each day and barely covers her costs, she enjoys serving regulars from as far as Jurong and Choa Chu Kang. 'People talk to me about their job and life struggles, and I share my stories too,' she says. 'They want somewhere to feel safe.' Where: 171B Sengkang East Drive; the full address will be provided upon ordering Open: 10am to 4pm (Wednesdays to Fridays) Info: @brew_withgrace; pre-order at Neighbourhood coffee hub Baobei Coffee is a labour of love by Mr Joshua Simon, 31, a manager at an IT services company based in the United States. He and his wife moved into their five-room BTO flat in Tampines in 2022 and he soft-launched the cafe at the end of 2024. Mr Joshua Simon runs home cafe Baobei Coffee out of his HDB flat in Tampines. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The monicker 'Baobei' has a double meaning – in Chinese, it is widely used as a term of endearment and also sounds like the words for 'a full cup'. For Mr Simon, it captures the warmth and connection he hopes to share with strangers through coffee. 'What began as a passion project experimenting with beans and methods grew into something I wanted to offer others,' he says. He credits his pet corgi, Scottie, with helping him build a sense of community. 'She brings smiles and emotional connections – that's what we're about.' Mr Joshua Simon runs home cafe Baobei Coffee out of his HDB flat in Tampines. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Mr Simon, who works from home, says customers come not just for the drinks, but also for the atmosphere. 'Some people tell me they do not even like coffee – they just want to support a home-based business. People crave the slow life. Home cafes allow them to escape the fast-paced reality of life in Singapore.' Baobei Coffee now opens five days a week. Most customers pre-order takeaway drinks via a Telegram bot that Mr Simon coded. Groups of up to four at a time can book in-person visits. Popular items include Cloud Hug (latte, $4) and Bed of Roses (iced rose latte, $5), made using locally roasted beans. (From left) Bed of Roses (iced rose latte) and Cocoa Hugs (iced mocha) at home cafe Baobei Coffee. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO He says: 'We are surrounded by amazing cafes with big names and polished reputations. It was hard not to compare myself with them. But over time, I have learnt to trust the process and the joy it brings others.' Eventually, he hopes to do events and pop-ups. But for now, Baobei Coffee remains a personal extension of his home and hobby. Where: 645B Tampines Street 62; the full address will be disclosed upon ordering Open: 9am to 4pm (Mondays and Tuesdays), 10am to 5pm (Fridays), 9am to 5pm (Saturdays) and 9am to noon (Sundays). Closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays Info: @baobeicoffee on Instagram Regional flavour blends With an ending came a new caffeine-fuelled beginning. Freelance designer Alvin Lee, 33, launched his home-based takeaway coffee business, Soop Soop Coffee, in December 2024 after leaving a job in UI/UX design. Inspired by cafes he had visited in Taiwan and Japan, he created drinks like Osmanthus Latte ($5.50) and Indigo Coconut Matcha Cloud ($6.50) using floral and tropical flavour pairings. Indigo Coconut Matcha Cloud at Soop Soop Coffee. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO His compact 10-item menu includes $4 black coffee and $7.50 matcha with oat milk. He runs the business from his mother's four-room HDB flat in Yishun and gives customers his address after payment is made for pre-orders. He initially placed two chairs and a table in the corridor, but was told by authorities this was not allowed. Since May, he has served only takeaway drinks. 'I did not expect people from Sengkang and Pasir Ris to travel here,' he says. 'Some customers enjoy going to different neighbourhoods and seeing how other people live. Home cafes offer a glimpse into somebody else's life.' Though he took a three-day barista course, he has no interest in becoming a full-time barista, preferring to keep it a side hustle. He is in the process of setting up a design firm with a friend. He wanted to share his coffee with people, but 'it is too expensive to treat people to free coffee daily'. 'Running my home cafe lets me cover costs while sharing great coffee.' Mr Alvin Lee and his Osmanthus Latte. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Where: 408 Yishun Avenue 6; the full address will be disclosed upon ordering Open: 9am to 4pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays), noon to 4pm (Sundays). Closed on Mondays. Info: @ on Instagram; pre-order at Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories. More on this Topic Rice to the occasion: Bold new twists on nasi lemak with familiar tastes Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.

Less frills, more flavour: Fast-casual restaurants take off amid belt-tightening
Less frills, more flavour: Fast-casual restaurants take off amid belt-tightening

Straits Times

time24-05-2025

  • Business
  • Straits Times

Less frills, more flavour: Fast-casual restaurants take off amid belt-tightening

Less frills, more flavour: Fast-casual restaurants take off amid belt-tightening SINGAPORE – Veterinary nurse Natasha Allen, 25, has cut back on dining expenses – but not on meals with friends. She used to dine at full-service restaurants such as Spanish restaurant Tinto and Italian restaurant Sospiri twice a week, spending close to $100 an outing. Now, she opts for fast-casual eateries like Korean chain Jinjja Chicken, where her bill size is about $20. 'Fast-casual restaurants offer a similar experience – high-quality food that is cooked to order and a nice ambience – but at wallet-friendly prices,' she says. Jinjja Chicken at Nex mall. PHOTO: JINJJA CHICKEN As more Singaporeans tighten their belts amid an uncertain economic outlook, fast-casual restaurants are emerging as an attractive middle ground between hawker centres and full-service dining, offering air-conditioned comfort and convenience without breaking the bank. Many of these eateries shave manpower costs with self-ordering systems via kiosks or QR codes. Diners collect their food when their buzzers go off and clear their trays after they are done eating. Most do not charge a service fee, and those registered for goods and services tax usually include it in their listed prices. Ms Serene Ang, 48, chief executive of Foodtech F&B Ventures, says: 'Singaporeans want quick service and a comfortable air-conditioned environment, but not the pain of paying a 10 per cent service charge.' Oyster Mee Sua at Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) at VivoCity. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Her latest venture, Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express), opened in April 2025 at VivoCity. The 425 sq ft outlet seats 33 diners and serves dishes such as Oyster Mee Sua ($7.80) and Braised Trio Combo Rice ($12.80), featuring pig's trotter, pork knuckle and pork belly bento-style. All prices are nett, and the average spend per diner is about $12. Braised Trio Combo Rice at Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) at VivoCity. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Ms Ang, who runs two full-service Jiak Ba Food Heaven outlets – at Alexandra Retail Centre and Far East Square – launched her third in a fast-casual format to adapt to changing market demands. 'At a high-rental mall like VivoCity, I have to maximise the floor space,' she says. 'A full-service restaurant is less profitable. We need to make more dollars per square foot.' Fast-casual restaurants work well in busy malls. The menu at her express outlet is trimmed to about 60 per cent of what is offered at her full-service locations, and the food is served in disposables. Diners tend to just eat and go, as the furniture – functional tables and wooden stools – is not designed for lingering. The outlet operates with just four employees. Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) is a fast-casual concept at VivoCity. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO 'I do not need experienced cooks. Our kitchen assistants can be trained to prepare food within two weeks,' she adds. What is fast-casual? Fast-casual restaurants differ from fast-food chains in that they usually offer fresher ingredients, cooked-to-order meals and regional flavours, with a bit of the ambience of full-service dining. Meals are usually priced between $10 and $15. Such restaurants do not shy away from using quality ingredients. 'We do not serve processed patties,' says Mr Stanley Lim, 51, director of operations at South Korean chain Jinjja Chicken, which offers Rabboki ($10.90), a dish of tteokbokki (Korean rice cakes) with ramyeon noodles. Rabboki, which is tteokbokki (Korean rice cakes) and ramyeon, at Jinjja Chicken. PHOTO: JINJJA CHICKEN Jinjja Chicken also uses fresh, not frozen, chicken wings for its signature Jinjja Wings ($8.90 for six pieces). Jinjja Wings with Soy Garlic sauce. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) imports handmade red vermicelli from Taiwan. Ajumma's, a South Korean fast-casual chain, has enhanced its Army Base Stew ($15.90++) by adding dried seafood to the stock and switching from luncheon meat to Spam, despite the latter costing twice as much. 'Fast-casual restaurants have to offer a more polished experience. We need to provide quality food and authenticity for the cuisine that we are serving,' Mr Lim says. He adds that today's diners are better travelled and more discerning. 'Young families who dine out often have more sophisticated tastes and preferences. They are no longer satisfied with simple food – they want authentic food. They are willing to pay for something a step above what foodcourts offer, because they also want to take photos of their food in a better setting to post on social media.' Comfort, speed and variety Fast-casual brands span a range of options – from army stew to vegetarian bentos to nasi padang bowls. At Ajumma's, bulgogi rice sets with four refillable side dishes start at $11.90++. Food is served quickly – typically within five minutes. Chicken Bulgogi at Ajumma's. PHOTO: AJUMMA'S Ajumma's chief executive Dominic Tan, 33, says: 'People used to think speed meant pre-cooked food. But fast-casual can be quality, freshly cooked meals that arrive quickly.' Ajumma's outlet at Westgate. PHOTO: AJUMMA'S While many assume fast-casual outlets rely mainly on pre-cooked food from central kitchens, many of these restaurants cook their food on-site. Ajumma's uses high-powered stoves to prepare food to order. Japanese fast-casual chain Hokkaido-Ya, part of the Sushi Tei group, also prepares meals on its premises. Hokkaido-Ya at Punggol Coast Mall. PHOTO: HOKKAIDO-YA Its newest outlet at Punggol Coast Mall caters to young families, busy professionals and students. Value meals – such as the Tori Karaage Set, with rice, miso soup and salad – start at $8.50. Tori Karaage Set at Hokkaido-Ya comprises deep-fried chicken with rice, miso soup and salad. PHOTO: HOKKAIDO-YA Director of Hokkaido-Ya, Mr Allen Tan, 54, observes that the rise of fast-casual restaurants is driven by customers wanting high-quality but accessible food. With Singapore diners well served by hawker centres and foodcourts, as well as the quick service restaurant segment, he says the fast-casual segment has to offer a more compelling product, priced between full-service restaurants and hawker fare. Self-ordering kiosks at Hokkaido-Ya at Punggol Coast Mall. PHOTO: HOKKAIDO-YA Mr Eugene Tan, 46, chief executive of Serangoon BBQ & Curry, agrees. 'It boils down to the key product. The food has to be tasty and the prices affordable. At present, our offering of heritage flavours is unique in the fast-casual segment.' His outlets at Junction 8 and Raffles Specialist Centre serve nasi padang in bowls, with offferings such as beef rendang with sambal goreng, achar and rice ($13.90). Beef rendang, sambal goreng, achar, sambal belachan and rice at Serangoon BBQ & Curry. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO There is no display of dishes – just a minimalist interior with rattan chairs and green marble-top tables. Diners order via kiosks or QR codes. Serangoon BBQ & Curry's outlet at Raffles Specialist Centre. PHOTO: SERANGOON BBQ & CURRY Mr Tan says: 'Our food is family-friendly. Those who do not like to eat fast food may take to our concept because at the heart of it, it is food that they can relate to.' Greendot, which began as a canteen stall in 2011, transitioned to a fast-casual format in 2013. Greendot at Bukit Panjang Plaza. PHOTO: GREENDOT It aims to fill the gap between salad chains and traditional cai png, offering elegant vegetarian bento sets. Rendang Lion Mane Mushroom Bento Set at Greendot. PHOTO: GREENDOT Popular items include the Rendang Lion Mane Mushroom Bento Set ($10.50) and Angelica Herbal Noodles With Cordyceps ($8.90). Angelica Herbal Noodles With Cordyceps at Greendot. PHOTO: GREENDOT Says its chief executive Fu Yong Hong, 36: 'We wanted to offer well-balanced meals that could appeal to non-vegetarians too.' Leaner teams, lower costs The fast-casual format thrives on efficient staffing and simplified kitchen workflows. 'Fast-casual outlets are easier to scale,' says Mr Tan of Serangoon BBQ & Curry. 'You typically need less manpower, smaller kitchens and well-designed workflows.' At each of his outlets, only three employees are deployed, two in the kitchen and one upfront, who also helps with food preparation during peak periods. All staff are trained to handle specific kitchen stations. Standardised operating procedures are the backbone of running a successful fast-casual brand. Mr Lim of Jinjja says: 'We do not require trained chefs. Reducing the physical and mental stress makes it easier to attract and retain workers.' At Jinjja, the noodle-frying process is broken into simple steps. 'Since the crew members at noodle stations are not experienced cooks, they do not toss the noodles in the frying pan. Instead, they use a pair of tongs to move the noodles around. 'The quality of the food is 80 per cent of what you get from an experienced chef. But this level is good enough because we make up for the lack of experience in cooking with the use of fresh ingredients. So, the end product is of good quality and has good flavour.' At Greendot, a simplified set-up has attracted older workers, including women aged 55 to 65. 'Some do not want to touch cash or speak to customers, so we place them in the kitchen. Others help with plating or collecting orders,' says Mr Fu. Setting up a fast-casual outlet also translates to lower start-up costs. A full-service restaurant may require 2,000 sq ft in space and $800,000 to $1 million in capital to open, say operators. Fast-casual outlet Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) cost a more modest $120,000 to set up. Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express) at VivoCity costs a modest $120,000 to set up. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Foodtech F&B Ventures' Ms Ang says: 'We do not need complex renovations. Customers do not expect designer interiors. We use stools instead of chairs, and simple tables that can be moved easily.' At Jinjja, renovation and equipment costs range from $400,000 to $500,000 an outlet, each with 40 to 50 seats and a lean staff of 12. A full-service restaurant of a similar size might need 20 to 30 staff. What is next for fast-casual? Operators expect the format to grow, especially with rising price sensitivity. 'Recession or not, people still want to eat out,' says Mr Tan of Ajumma's. 'They just want more bang for their buck.' Fast-casual concepts offer a quick, scalable model. With compact kitchens, standardised menus and lean teams, some outlets can be launched in under three months. 'We took nine months to develop Jiak Ba Food Heaven (Express), but with a working prototype, we can now roll out an outlet in two months,' says Ms Ang. This format, operators say, may even help preserve Singapore's food culture in an era of rising costs. 'Fast-casual could be a way to preserve heritage fare if operators can find ways to adapt traditional food to modern methods using automation,' says Mr Tan of Serangoon BBQ & Curry, who uses combi ovens in his kitchens to cook and stew curries, as well as grill meats and seafood. He adds: 'At the end of the day, the food still has to taste good. Price is not everything, value is.' Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.

Food Picks: Home-style flavours at Palapa Indonesian Fast Food
Food Picks: Home-style flavours at Palapa Indonesian Fast Food

Straits Times

time22-05-2025

  • Business
  • Straits Times

Food Picks: Home-style flavours at Palapa Indonesian Fast Food

Opened in June 2024 by Mr William Luimenta, 35, and Mr Timothy Santika, 34, Palapa Indonesia Fast Food offers a tight selection of chicken (fried and grilled), lamb and beef. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO SINGAPORE – If you think Indonesian food is just ayam penyet or nasi padang, Palapa Indonesian Fast Food wants to change your mind. Opened in June 2024 by Mr William Luimenta, 35, and Mr Timothy Santika, 34, the fast-casual eatery offers a tight selection of chicken (fried and grilled), lamb and beef. Both co-owners, originally from Indonesia, are Singapore permanent residents. Mr Luimenta is from Medan, while Mr Santika is from Jakarta. The standout dish is Coriander Fried Chicken With Signature Lime Rice ($8.90). Coriander Fried Chicken With Signature Lime Rice at Palapa Indonesian Fast Food. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Chicken leg is marinated overnight in garlic, shallots and a blend of ground coriander with crushed coriander seeds – a recipe from Mr Luimenta's mother – then deep-fried twice for extra crispness. The savoury rice, green from the use of Thai lime leaves, has a gentle citrus perfume. The dish comes with a piece of battered tempeh and bakwan sayur – a vegetable fritter packed with cabbage, carrot, Chinese celery, spring onion and chilli. For $10.40, customers can swop the rice for Indomie – the Indonesia-made version, which the duo insist has more robust seasoning. Palapa takes care to drain the noodles properly, avoiding sogginess and allowing the seasoning to coat the springy strands evenly. Add on a Balado Egg for $1.50. The battered hard-boiled egg, coated in a housemade sambal that skips belacan, delivers a chilli-forward punch. While the Grilled Chicken With Indomie ($10.40) and Grilled Lamb With Signature Lime Rice ($9.90) disappoint – both meats carry strong, off-putting odours and the sliced lamb is overcooked – the Sayur Asem Soup ($3.50) shines in an understated way. Sayur Asem Soup at Palapa Indonesian Fast Food. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The vegetable tamarind soup – chock-full of chayote, cabbage, baby corn and long beans – has aromatic warmth from galangal and torch ginger flower. Tangy and mildly spicy, it is a comforting way to round off the meal. Where: 02-28 City Gate, 371 Beach Road MRT: Nicoll Highway Open: 11am to 8.30pm daily Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.

Food Picks: Soulful traditional Teochew flavours at Chaoshan Xiaochi
Food Picks: Soulful traditional Teochew flavours at Chaoshan Xiaochi

Straits Times

time21-05-2025

  • Straits Times

Food Picks: Soulful traditional Teochew flavours at Chaoshan Xiaochi

(Clockwise from top left) Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette, Pig Trotter Terrine, Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish, Teochew Crystal dumplings, Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO SINGAPORE – No-frills eatery Chaoshan Xiaochi offers a tight but punchy selection of traditional Teochew fare and snacks in small servings. The Teochew owner, Singaporean Ricky Koh, 69, used to run a 200-seat Teochew restaurant in Shun Li Industrial Estate. which closed in December 2021 when the lease ended during the Covid-19 pandemic. After three years of retirement, he opened Chaoshan Xiaochi, an ode to traditional Teochew fare, served in small plates and through homely snacks. It is no exaggeration to say the eatery's show-stopping Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette ($8) is divine. A strong fire, sufficient pork oil, lashings of quality fish sauce from Swatow are the secrets to turning sweet potato starch slurry into savoury crisp pancakes topped with plump succulent oysters. Traditional Fried Oyster Omelette at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Another unmissable item is the gelatinous Pig Trotter Terrine ($12). Made in-house by the eatery's head chef from Swatow every three to four days using hind pork and fish gelatin, it is served chilled in generous slices and comes with a satisfying wobble and a clean, meaty finish. Pig Trotter Terrine at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Another textural delight is Teochew Crystal Dumplings ($10 for six), imported from a specialist kueh maker in Swatow. Each dumpling has a translucent, chewy skin that does not stick to the teeth. Flavours include bamboo shoots, garlic chives, pumpkin, purple sweet potato and red bean. Fillings rotate randomly but all are flavourful and well-balanced. There are five flavours of Teochew Crystal Dumplings. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Even the greens shine. The Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish ($12) uses tender baby kailan from Hong Kong and premium ti poh (sole fish). Blanched just right, the dish is clean-tasting yet deeply savoury. Kai Lan With Dried Sole Fish at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Offal lovers will relish Large Pig Intestine With Preserved Vegetable ($10) and Pork Tripe Soup ($10). Pork Tripe Soup With Preserved Vegetable at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Both use house-washed offal – meticulously cleaned and brimming with flavour from sour mustard greens. Large Pig Intestine Stir Fried With Preserved Vegetable at Chaoshan Xiaochi. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The eatery conjures up a superb take on Cai Por Kway Teow (Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish, $12), fried using a combination of sweet and salty preserved radish. Each strand of kway teow is infused with pork oil, cai por and the elusive wok hei, without a single burnt strand – proof of a deft hand at the wok. Slices of kailan, glossy not greasy with pork oil, lend emerald accents to the dish. Rice Noodle With Preserved Radish. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Order Mi Lan Xiang tea ($3 a person) to go with the meal. It is a personal favourite of Mr Koh, a tea aficionado who selected it during a trip to Phoenix Mountain in Chaozhou, a region famed for its floral oolongs. The fragrant brew is a fitting match for a soulful meal steeped in tradition. To top it off, there is no GST or service charge – just great food, made with heart. Chaoshan Xiaochi in Geylang. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Where: 749 Geylang Road MRT: Paya Lebar Open: 11.30am to 9pm daily Tel: 8839-0247 Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.

Food Picks: Old-school noodles at industrial canteen stall Wei Ji Noodle House
Food Picks: Old-school noodles at industrial canteen stall Wei Ji Noodle House

Straits Times

time20-05-2025

  • General
  • Straits Times

Food Picks: Old-school noodles at industrial canteen stall Wei Ji Noodle House

SINGAPORE – At a time when noodle chains peddling Teochew noodles have quietly ditched braised mushrooms, Wei Ji Noodle House still makes them from scratch. Run by Mr Ricky Loo, 69, and Madam Jenny Chong, this stall sticks to tradition – right down to slicing and frying shallots for their own shallot oil, the backbone of both noodle and soup. Mr Loo is Teochew and holds purist views on food, which explains his refusal to use factory-made sole fish powder. He and Madam Chong – who is Hakka – insist on buying whole premium sole fish, which they fry and grind to season their broth. Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle ($4) wins points before it is even served. I ask for no ketchup. They reply – almost offended – that they do not stock it. The mee kia is springy and slick with lard, vinegar and housemade chilli. The braised mushrooms are tender with a clean chew and the minced pork is lightly sweet. Madam Chong snips each rehydrated mushroom by hand – because the flavour is deeper when sliced after soaking. The accompanying soup is savoury, thanks to a measured use of tang chye (preserved vegetable). Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle Dry at Wei Ji Noodle House. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The Laksa ($4.50, with an extra $1 for more cockles) is the most accomplished dish. The rempah (spice paste) is made in-house. The gravy has the richness of coconut milk balanced by evaporated milk, with the warm, earthy thrum of galangal and lemongrass. Pandan leaf lends a gentle perfume. The laksa beehoon is soft but intact. A dollop of sambal, thick with finely ground dried prawns, adds a sharp, tidal note that lifts without overpowering. Laksa at Wei Ji Noodle House. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The Fried Fish Lor Mee ($5) is a mixed bag. The battered chunks of dory are crisp and free of that dreaded muddy taste. But the gravy drags the dish down. It is overly thick and goopy, muting the texture of the noodles and flattening the flavour. Fried Fish Lor Mee at Wei Ji Noodle House. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO An unexpected item that is worth the gamble is the Penang Char Kway Teow ($5.50). Instead of frozen Vietnamese prawns, the couple use oh hei – fresh black prawns from the wet market – which are sweet, briny and full of snap. Beansprouts give crunch; lup cheong adds a waxy, savoury edge; and crisp pork lard croutons bring richness and bite. There is a whisper of wok hei, just enough to lift the plate. Penang Fried Kway Teow at Wei Ji Noodle House. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO The Handmade Meatball Soup ($4.50) is the quiet hit. The broth, laced with house-fried shallot oil, is clean and addictive. The meatballs are bouncy – each packed with minced pork, bits of carrot, spring onion and a breath of chilli. Handmade Meatball Soup at Wei Ji Noodle House. ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO Where: Stall 6, 01-401 Yi Jia Food Centre, 5036 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2 MRT: Ang Mo Kio Open: 6am to 3pm (Mondays to Saturdays). Closed on Sundays Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.

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