This charming capital is a perfect — and affordable — city break
Summer will have well and truly arrived in Europe by the end of June. But while the crowds flock to the Med's beaches, you can avoid peak prices by looking elsewhere. Slovenia's small but charming capital, Ljubljana, is often overlooked but makes the perfect summer city break, with fantastic museums, fairytale architecture and pavement cafés on the banks of the River Ljubljanica. Plus, with temperatures in the mid to high twenties, June is the best time to take advantage of the city's forest hiking trails, open-air markets and street performances that form part of the annual Ljubljana Festival (June 20 to September 12).
Stay just outside the cobbled old town for the best prices. Three nights' B&B at Austria Trend Hotel Ljubljana, including flights from Gatwick with easyJet and an entrance ticket for Ljubljana Castle costs £419pp with Trailfinders, departing on June 24. An under-seat cabin bag is included, but you can add a 23kg suitcase for an extra £83pp return. Taxis from the airport cost about £30, but it's easy to hop on the No 28 bus to Ruski car station, a 15-minute walk from the hotel (£3, buy in cash on board; lju-airport.si).
The modern four-star hotel is three miles north of the capital's centre, but is a five-minute walk to Posta, where the No 6 or 8 bus will whisk you to the old town for £1. A taxi costs about £7. Rooms are sleek and spacious with clean lines, large, white-tiled bathrooms and punchy mustard yellow and olive-green accents. Downstairs there's a restaurant serving an extensive buffet breakfast, including regional specialities such as strudels, and an evening à la carte menu. A lounge is open all day for burgers and craft beer from Slovenian breweries. There's also an impressive spa with a huge gym and sauna circuit featuring Turkish, Finnish and infrared options.
Get your bearings in the old town with a free twice-daily walking tour (11am and 3pm; ljubljanafreetour.com), then visit the 16th-century hilltop Ljubljana Castle for views over the rooftops and mountains beyond. Your package includes an entrance ticket so you will only need to pay for the glass-walled funicular — or you can hike the signed wooded path instead (funicular £5 return; ljubljanskigrad.si). Afterwards potter round the old town's pedestrianised cobbled streets, taking in the 19th-century wooden shopfronts and courtyards of the old market square, Stari trg. Peek in the Cathedral of St Nicholas to marvel at its extravagant pink marble interior (free) then visit Plecnik House, the former home of Slovenia's most celebrated architect (£8; mgml.si).
Make the most of the June sunshine by picking up picnic supplies from the Central Market (Mon to Sat) then head to the sprawling Tivoli Park with its lawns and woodlands. Forested hiking trails leading to the Roznik and Siska hills are accessed from the western side of the park, or see more from the water by joining a stand-up paddleboard tour on the river, right through the heart of the city (£50; bananaway.eu). Celebrate afterwards with a pint of local beer at the 160-year-old brewery Union (drinks from £3; union-experience.si).
• This spectacular tiny country is returning to its glory days
• Return Gatwick-Ljubljana flights, departing on June 24• Ljubljana Castle entrance ticket• Three nights' B&B at Austria Trend Hotel Ljubljana (trailfinders.com)
Feeling flush? If you're inspired by Ljubljana but have more to spend, try one of these …
If you would rather stay within walking distance of the main sights, Antiq Palace Hotel and Spais a good option. The 16th-century former diplomatic residence on one of the city's most prestigious streets has 16 rooms, including a two-bedroom apartment. Original details, including 300-year-old frescoes, glossy wooden floors, full-length windows and 4m ceilings, are complemented with shades of rich cream and oatmeal, carved wooden beds and chandeliers. There's a garden and inner courtyard for pre-dinner drinks, a lounge with a reading area and a restaurant and wine cellar. The river is a five-minute walk. Details Three nights' B&B from £697pp, including flights (firstchoice.co.uk)
• Read our full guide to Slovenia
Grand Hotel Union Eurostars is the city's most celebrated hotel and has welcomed everyone from Queen Elizabeth II to the Dalai Lama. A five-minute stroll from the main square, Preserenov trg, the 1905 art nouveau building has bags of historical charm, including a dramatic sweeping staircase, floor to ceiling windows and gorgeous chestnut parquet floors. Rooms have smart grey marble bathrooms and velvet furnishings in deep burgundy. Elsewhere, there's a small shopping arcade, a spa, a rooftop pool with castle views and a renowned café that has been serving Slovenian dishes and local wine to the city's high society for more than 100 years. Details Three nights' B&B from £1,275pp, including flights and a day trip to Miramare Castle in Italy (coxandkings.co.uk)
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