New Releases From California - Fort Ross And Lewis Cellars
Tasting room of Fort Ross Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast
Fort Ross (Jenner, Sonoma Coast) - Fort Ross Winery is located on the Sonoma Coast; in this case, the coast is so close, you can smell the sea and almost touch it. This is a great site for growing cool climate varieties, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and their versions of these wines are excellent, but what is most interesting about the portfolio of Fort Ross is the fact that they also produce a vibrant Chenin Blanc, somewhat of a rarity in California, as well as a beautifully textured and harmonious Pinotage, a wine that is at home in South Africa, but one you rarely see in California. Fort Ross is definitely a winery to keep an eye on in the future.
Chenin Blanc 2023 (Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma Coast) Aromas of yellow peach, lime and hints of papaya and yellow pansy. Medium-bodied, this offers excellent ripeness and freshness along with lively acidity and very good persistence. True to its type, this is of impressive quality and very refreshing; enjoy over the next 3-4 years. (92)
Pinotage 2019 (Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma Coast) - 100% Pinotage; aged in French oak, 20% new.) Bright, medium-deep garnet. Aromas of cola, bing cherry, blackberry and amaryllis. Medium-bodied this has excellent ripeness, very good acidity, subdued wood notes, medium-weight tannins and very good persistence. Very well made with notable harmony, enjoy this with roast chicken, duck, and seafood such as tuna or salmon (just like Pinot Noir) over the next 3-5 years. (92)
Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyards 2021 (Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma Coast) - Aromas of bing cherry, subtle wood notes (furniture polish) and black orchid. Medium-full, with lively acidity, well-integrated oak, medium-full tannins and very good persistence. The fruit is quite ripe and high tone. Another year should round out the tannins. Peak in 6-8 years. (93)
Vineyard of Lewis Cellars, Napa Valley
Lewis Cellars (Napa) - Established in 1992 by Randy Lewis, a former Indy-car race driver and his wife Debbie, Lewis Cellars has enjoyed a distinguished history over its three-decades existence; to wit, the Lewis Cellars 2013 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was named the #1 Wine of the Year by the famed Wine Spectator magazine in 2016.
In 2021, Lewis sold the winery to a group that represents two other California wineries (Justin Vineyards of Paso Robles, Landmark Vineyards of Sonoma County). Randy Lewis has been joined by Dennis Bell as vice-president, and the company continues crafting richly flavored Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, along with a few other wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and a special offering called The Big Blend.
Here are my notes on three of their wines:
Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Napa Valley) -Bright, medium yellow; delicate varietal aromas of freshly cut hay, pear, grass and a hint of basil. Medium-bodied, there is good acidity and varietal character. The finish is a bit short, but otherwise, this is a well-made wine; enjoy over the next 2-3 years. (91)
Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Napa Valley) - 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 19 months in 65% new French oak. Bright, deep purple; aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, clove and evident wood notes. Full-bodied with impressive ripeness, balanced acidity, strong wood notes and impressive persistence. A powerful Cabernet Sauvignon that lacks proper balance and finesse. Give this time, but will it age gracefully? Peak in 12-15 years. (91)
The Big Blend 2022 (Napa Valley) - This was my favorite of the new releases from Lewis Cellars. Primarily Syrah (48%), the wine also contains smaller percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Bright, deep purple with luscious aromas of blackberry, black currant, mocha and purple iris, this is a wine of impressive ripeness and texture, backed by round, medium-full tannins and good balancing acidity. As young and as rich as this wine is, there is an appealing charm to the wine, making it enjoyable for dinner tonight; it would be especially good paired with veal chop, pork roast or duck breast. Or if you prefer, enjoy it sometime over the next 5-7 years. (93)
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Aperture Site Series is a collection of single-vineyard wines, each sourced from one meticulously chosen vineyard site in Sonoma County 2022 Aperture Oliver Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture SJ Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon | $150 2022 Aperture Proterra | $175
