
Stars shine at Met Gala, showcasing Black dandyism
The brightest stars in Hollywood, music, sports and fashion hit the red carpet Monday for the Met Gala, the extravagant Manhattan fundraiser that this year spotlights the subversive style of Black dandyism.
The blockbuster night's theme explores the sharply tailored dandy aesthetic and its rich, complicated history. It also celebrates the opening of a corresponding exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute.
But for the fashionistas, the Met Gala -- always the first Monday in May -- is simply one of the world's top red carpets with blinding star power.
Oscar-nominated actor Colman Domingo and Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton, two of the co-chairs of fashion's marquee event, were among the early arrivals alongside gala supremo Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue.
Domingo paid tribute to the late Andre Leon Talley, Vogue's first Black creative director and one of fashion's towering figures, in a royal blue Valentino cape with a glittering white collar over a snazzy black and gold jacket and gray tweed trousers.
Hamilton meanwhile wowed in a sharp cream suit and matching backwards cap, diamonds glittering in his ears, as well as on his lapel, cuffs and hands.
And musician and designer Pharrell Williams, another co-chair, looked snappy in a short, pearl-encrusted white jacket and flared black tuxedo trousers.
Tailored suits, bejeweled brooches and jaunty hats were de rigueur for the men.
Among the women in attendance, actress Teyana Taylor definitely understood the assignment, arriving in a black suit with red pinstripes and matching huge red coat, the back fully pleated and 'Harlem Rose' embossed in the fabric.
Rapper Doechii wore a logo-heavy Louis Vuitton cream shorts suit with burgundy accents, a cigar dangling between her lips.
And actress Zendaya, always a huge hit at the gala, stunned in a slim white suit and dramatic brimmed hat -- perhaps some bridal chic now that she is engaged to Tom Holland?
Still awaited was singer Rihanna, after she revealed a new baby bump ahead of the event. Her partner A$AP Rocky, a gala co-chair, confirmed the pregnancy on the carpet: 'I'm glad everybody's happy for us because we're definitely happy.'
'New sense of importance'
The gala comes five years after the enormous anti-racist uprising of the Black Lives Matter movement, which pushed a number of cultural institutions in the United States to grapple with their representation of race and diversity.
This Met theme is years in the making but now coincides with Donald Trump's recent efforts to quash institutional initiatives to promote diversity -- a push to keep culture and history defined on the Republican president's terms.
The Met Gala and its exhibit, 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,' promises a sharp contrast to that notion, a deep dive into Black dandyism from the 18th century to today.
'Obviously, this exhibition was planned many years ago, and we didn't know what would be happening in the political arena, but it's taken on a new sense of importance and purpose,' Wintour told AFP.
Subversion
Guest curator and Barnard professor Monica Miller's book 'Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity' was the Met's inspiration.
Her book details how dandyism was a style imposed on Black men in 18th century Europe, when well-dressed 'dandified' servants became a trend.
But Black men throughout history subverted the concept as a means of cultivating power, transforming aesthetic and elegance into a means of identity establishment and social mobility.
During the vibrant Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s and 1930s, men wore sharp suits and polished shoes as a show of defiance in racially segregated America.
'Superfine' is a rare Costume Institute exhibition to spotlight men and male fashion, and the first to focus on Black designers and artists.
The Met Gala was first organized in 1948 and for decades was reserved for New York high society -- until Wintour transformed the party into a high-profile catwalk for the rich and famous in the 1990s.
It remains a fundraiser for the Costume Institute. The famed Manhattan museum reported last year's edition raked in some $26 million.
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Met Gala pays tribute to Black fashion and designers and includes Rihanna pregnancy surprise NEW YORK: Rihanna shut down a rainy Met Gala on Monday in a pinstripe look and a huge hat, her newly announced baby bump on display after announcing her pregnancy with baby No. 3 earlier in the day. Her Marc Jacobs look included tied sleeves of a men's suit that served as a bustle behind her as she posed for the cameras, the last to walk the carpet as usual. Her hair hung long in a mermaid twist behind her. Men's suiting and tailoring was the evening's theme. It came complete with a tuxedoed choir and lots of women rocking pinstripes and other men's detailing. Emma Chamberlain, Zendaya, Teyana Taylor and many other women went with traditional men's detailing. Chamberlain and Zuri Hall were among those who wore sleek, sexy gowns that play on men's suiting in pinstripes as they walked up the grand steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Zendaya, a co-host last year, wore a perfectly tailored white trouser suit with a matching wide-brim hat from Louis Vuitton. Janelle Monáe epitomized the night's theme, the Black dandy, in exaggerated pinstripes by Thom Browne. Lauryn Hill honored menswear in a butter yellow suit with exaggerated tailoring that screamed Black power. The menswear vibe for women was frequent and expected, 'women wanting to maintain a traditionally feminine dress silhouette while still respecting the theme,' said William Dingle, director of style for a cultural impact agency that focuses on uplifting Black men. Alicia Keys and her husband, Swizz Beatz, leaned WAY in on the pinstripes in red. She rocked a head of bejeweled braids. He rocked a do-rag. Doja Cat, always fearless when it comes to fashion, donned a Marc Jacobs bodysuit look with orange and black wildcat detailing and broad-shouldered pinstripes. Taylor went for a stunning Zoot Suit look with a red, feather-adorned top hat and a huge matching cape dripping with flowers and bling. She collaborated with famed costumer designer Ruth E. Carter. The Zoot was popularized in Harlem in the 1940s. Madonna, 'no stranger to gender-bending fashion,' Dingle said, showed up in a monochrome taupe tuxedo clutching a cigar. It was Tom Ford by Haider Ackermann, the designer who took over when Ford stepped aside. Kylie Jenner, in Ferragamo, mimicked men's tailoring in a gray and black corseted look, while sister Kim Kardashian went embossed black leather dandy, vamping under a tall black hat. Her custom look was by Chrome Hearts. It was low slung and open at the hip with broad straps at the back. Sister Kendall Jenner was in an elegant skirt and jacket, the most subdued of the three. The designer was the British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer Torishéju Dumi. And then there were the bombshells ... Megan Thee Stallion in Michael Kors and Dua Lipa in black Chanel included. Megan's look had a high side slit and floral lace embellishment. Lipa was giving elevated flapper in feathers and an 'S' curl style for her hair. And Miley Cyrus oozed womanhood in a custom cropped black crocodile jacket and long black taffeta skirt by Alaïa. Diana Ross, meanwhile, swallowed the carpet in a huge white train, escorted by her son, Evan Ross. Lizzo debuted blonde hair to go with her pink and black Christian Siriano gown with a plunge at the front. It was so tight at the legs she struggled to walk. Cardi B, who always goes big at the Met Gala, stunned in a low-cut Burberry pantsuit. She showed off a new hairstyle and eye color, appearing to wear green contacts to match her ivy-colored look. The standouts among the men As for the men, co-host A$AP Rocky told The Associated Press that Anna Wintour suggested he wear a Black designer. 'So I wore myself,' the musician said of his custom suit designed by his creative agency, AWGE, complete with a black parka and diamond-crested umbrella. 'Everything is designed by yours truly.' Rocky, Rihanna's partner and dad to their two kids, confirmed to reporters that baby No. 3 in on the way. He spoke about it after Rihanna was photographed walking in the rain with her baby bump out in a blue crop top and skirt. 'It feels amazing, you know,' Rocky said. 'It's time that we show the people what we was cooking up. And I'm glad everybody's happy for us 'cause we definitely happy, you know.' He added: 'Honestly, it's a blessing nonetheless. Because you know how like some people in other situations at times can be envious of other people. But we've been seeing love for the most part. And we real receptive to that and appreciate that, you know what I mean? That's love. Love is love.' The dress code explained What, exactly, was the suggested dress code of the night, 'Tailored for You,' is inspired by Black dandyism. And what, exactly, is the Met Gala for? To raise money for the Met's Costume Institute. The gala raised a record $31 million before it began. Marie Claire, editor in chief of Marie Claire, noted a few trends done well. 'Top trends from the night: Black and white (Zoe Saldaña, Whoopi Goldberg, Gabrielle Union), pinstripes (Alicia Keys and Swizz Beats), suiting (Lupita Nyong'o, Ego Nwodim), hats (Lupita Nyong'o, Whoopi Goldberg and Teyana Taylor).' More on the men Colman Domingo, one of the evening's hosts, wore a pleated, gold adorned cape over a gray and black suit, his jacket a pearled windowpane design with a huge dotted black flower. His look, including his cape and a dotted black scarf at his neck, evoked the late André Leon Talley, the fashion icon who made history as a rare Black editor at Vogue. Domingo, in Valentino, arrived with Vogue's Wintour, dressed in a pastel blue coat over a shimmery white gown by Louis Vuitton, a gala sponsor. Fellow co-chair Lewis Hamilton donned a jaunty ivory tuxedo with a cropped jacket, a matching beret and cowrie shell embellishment. Hamilton's look carried deep meaning. 'The color of ivory denotes purity and status; cowries pass from hand to hand, the regal sash turns shamanic,' he wrote on Instagram. Claire Stern, Elle digital director added: 'Known for championing Black designers, the F1 star once again used his platform to celebrate heritage and creativity on one of fashion's biggest stages.' Domingo has epitomized contemporary dandyism in a variety of looks over the years. Pharrell Williams, another co-host, was demure in a double-breasted, beaded evening jacket and dark trousers. He kept his dark shades on while posing for the cameras. Williams walked with his wife, Helen Lasichanh, in a black bodysuit and matching jacket. Williams, the Louis Vuitton menswear creative director, said his 15,000 pearls were arranged in a pinstripe design and the jacket took 400 hours to construct. Walton Goggins, a guest this year with others from 'The White Lotus,' wore a deconstructed suit look with seams out and a pleated skirt he twirled for the cameras. LeBron James, the NBA superstar, was named honorary chair of the evening but bowed out at the last minute due to a knee injury. Other Met Gala looks that stood out Monica L. Miller, whose book inspired the evening, wore a bejeweled cropped cape over a dress adorned with cowrie shells by Grace Wales Bonner. It's a direct connection to a piece in the gala's companion Metropolitan Museum of Art spring exhibit that Miller guest curated. What other women killed the menswear game? Coco Jones in an ivory tuxedo coat with a train over matching trousers, both covered in chunky embellishment. 'Coco Jones absolutely leaned in,' Dingle said. 'I love the pearl and gem embellishments here, as well as the long coat, and even the necklace. Because she's taller, the long coat even further elongates her legs. This is a fantastic look.' Her look was by Indian designer Manish Malhotra. She said she wanted to honor Black excellence by going all out. Gigi Hadid, on the other hand, went all woman. She pulled up the spirit of Josephine Baker in a shimmery velvet gold halter gown by Miu Miu that hugged her hips, hip hugging being a big trend of the night for the women. Bad Bunny, ever a fashion rebel, wore a custom black Prada suit. The best detail: his woven hat, which appeared to be a reference to the pava, a straw hat associated with the Puerto Rican jíbaro.