Sip, savour and explore: Unveiling Cocktail Months at MGallery hotels across the world
[JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA] The first thing you notice upon exiting your plane at the New Chitose Airport in Sapporo, Japan, is the lone ad for Sapporo beer on the aerobridge. If you don't already know, Sapporo, capital city of the northern island of Hokkaido, is famous for being the home of its namesake beer – the oldest in Japan.
It is also the perfect destination from which to begin our little jaunt to experience MGallery's World Cocktail Months. A brand under French hospitality group Accor, MGallery is a collection of some 120 international luxury boutique hotels – each one different from the next. Its celebration of the art of mixology started in May and runs till Aug 31 across all MGallery hotels, but our experience begins at the charming Hotel Sosei Sapporo – MGallery Collection.
Japan's original brew
Opened in January 2024, the 118-room hotel is part of the city's historic brewery district, and like other buildings in the vicinity, sports a distinct red brick facade. Artworks such as a large, black iron sculpture of a wild hop pay homage to the area's brewing heritage, while its contemporary guest rooms are decorated with a dark palette and rich textures. The hotel has won accolades for its post-industrial East-meets-West design concept, including being named, just this month, as one of the world's most beautiful hotels by Unesco Prix Versailles, a prestigious architecture and design award.
The hotel has won accolades for its post-industrial East-meets-West design concept. PHOTO: HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO – MGALLERY COLLECTION
A black iron sculpture of a wild hop pay homage to the area's brewing heritage. PHOTO: HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO – MGALLERY COLLECTION
Sapporo's historic brewery district, with its distinct, red-brick buildings. PHOTO: HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO – MGALLERY COLLECTION
Hotel Sosei Sapporo – MGallery Collection sits across the road from the Sapporo Factory, the site of Japan's first government-run brewery, the Kaitakushi Brewery (the predecessor of Sapporo Brewery). Today, Sapporo Factory is a commercial complex housing a mall, cinema, restaurants and a beer bar that still serves lager produced from the brewery's first recipe. Apart from this bar, the hotel is the only other place where you can get a taste of the original brew.
Every MGallery hotel has an M Moment offering a unique, location-specific experience. At Hotel Sosei Sapporo – MGallery Collection, that would be a 20-minute traditional Japanese rickshaw ride through the alleys of Sapporo Factory. The ride includes a stop at the iconic black chimney bearing the Japanese name for Sapporo Beer, topped with a red star.
The iconic black chimney bearing the Japanese name for Sapporo Beer, topped with a red star. PHOTO:CORINNE KERK
But before the alcohol gets to your head, you should pop by the Sapporo Beer Museum to get an understanding of how, during the Meiji period, Sapporo – instead of the original pick, Tokyo – became the site for Japan's first brewery in 1876.
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Suffice to say it involves the region's cooler climate, availability of raw materials like wild hops, the strong insistence of a Japanese man who saw the area's potential, and a young Japanese brew master who defied a travel ban to stow away on a ship and eventually learn German beer-making techniques.
Pop by the Sapporo Beer Museum to understand how Sapporo – instead of Tokyo – became the site for Japan's first brewery in 1876. PHOTO:CORINNE KERK
At the hotel's cosy bar lounge, which sports a sculptural copper fireplace shaped like a brewing kiln, we get our first taste of MGallery's three new limited-edition cocktails – specially conceived in collaboration with Citadelle Gin to go with exclusive glassware created for MGallery hotels by French lifestyle brand, Maison Sarah Lavoine.
Hotel Sosei Sapporo - MGallery Collection's cosy bar lounge, which sports a sculptural copper fireplace shaped like a brewing kiln. PHOTO: HOTEL SOSEI SAPPORO – MGALLERY COLLECTION
Featuring Citadelle Gin Original, fino sherry, a jasmine and lemongrass cordial, and orange blossom, the Crystal Diva cocktail carries floral and herbal notes. It is served in a Maison Sarah Lavoine Nick & Nora coupe and garnished with a white chocolate shard and a touch of jasmine and lemongrass.
MGallery's three limited-edition cocktail creations. PHOTO: CORINNE KERK
The Timeless Negroni, on the other hand, is earthy and rich, with Citadelle Gin Original infused with sandalwood, red vermouth, as well as Italian bitters instilled with pineapple and pandan. An oval ice cube floats intriguingly in the cocktail, which is presented in a Maison Sarah Lavoine Old Fashioned tumbler.
Finally, sitting in a Maison Sarah Lavoine Coupe is the Honey 75, a salty, zesty twist on a French 75 featuring Citadelle Gin Original, fat-washed with local olive oil, verjus, salted local honey, and an orange and cardamom syrup, and then topped with Pommery champagne. The garnish? A piece of honeycomb with edible micro flowers.
All three are also available as mocktails.
Guest mixologist, Mongkol 'Lek' Saengchud from V Villas Phuket – MGallery Collection. PHOTO: CORINNE KERK
These drinks are mixed to perfection by guest mixologist, Mongkol 'Lek' Saengchud from V Villas Phuket – MGallery Collection, (the signature cocktail of which, christened Solar Eclipse, is a must-try). Despite making a ridiculous number of cocktails through the night, the gentle giant that is Lek is cool under fire – responding to the stream of non-stop and overlapping orders with equanimous utterances of 'of course', instead of, say, a punch to the face.
Japanese hospitality warmly received, our next stop is Hotel Naru Seoul – MGallery Collection, South Korea.
Cocktails in Korea
The 196-room hotel is located in Mapo, right by the Han River and a four-minute walk from Mapo station. With its 25-metre indoor pool and outdoor infinity pool both heated and overlooking the city and river from the 20th floor, it doesn't take long for us to head there for a relaxing swim.
The heated infinity pool on the 20th floor of Hotel Naru Seoul – MGallery Collection beckons. PHOTO: HOTEL NARU SEOUL – MGALLERY COLLECTION
However, we also made time for the hotel's M Moment, which takes visitors on a 50-minute guided tour of the unique artworks specially created for the hotel.
The hotel's elegant Lobby Lounge on the 20th floor. PHOTO: HOTEL NARU SEOUL – MGALLERY COLLECTION
As evening descends, cocktails can be had on the 20th floor in the bright and elegant Lobby Lounge with its double-volume space, or the oriental herbal pharmacy-inspired Bar Voisin on the 22nd floor. Doing the honours was guest mixologist Tan Dat Nguyen from Hotel des Arts Saigon – MGallery Collection.
Bar Voisin on the 22nd floor of Hotel Naru Seoul - MGallery Collection. PHOTO: HOTEL NARU SEOUL – MGALLERY COLLECTION
At both locations, you get stunning vistas of the city and river as the sun sets – tipple in hand and grateful you're not one of the many drivers stuck in peak-hour traffic in the distance, their headlights adding to the shimmering view you now enjoy.
Sunset, as seen through a glass window at Hotel Naru Seoul – MGallery Collection. PHOTO: CORINNE KERK
While you're there, taste a few of the hotel's signature cocktails. One of our favourites is Life Like A Ginseng, a refreshing summer drink comprising gin, ginseng concentrate, anise liqueur and lime soda finished with a tall ice cube and a ginseng root.
Life Like A Ginseng, a refreshing summer cocktail. PHOTO: CORINNE KERK
You should also try the Ssanghwa-tang – a cocktail version of the traditional Korean herbal tea often enjoyed with honey or an egg yolk. A perfectly spherical 'yolk' sits atop a mixture including pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, clove, cinnamon, sesame, Korean medicine and red and white wine.
The Ssanghwa-tang – a curious-looking cocktail served in a ceramic mug. PHOTO: CORINNE KERK
The 'yolk' is in fact a handmade citrus ball held together by a thin membrane. It bursts in your mouth to release a light and surprisingly neutral-tasting liquid, which contrasts with the slightly medicinal, spicy and nutty flavours of the rest of the drink. It is, in a way, a fascinating example of why there is just so much to explore in MGallery's World Cocktail Months.
The writer was a guest of Hotel Sosei Sapporo – MGallery Collection and Hotel Naru Seoul – MGallery Collection, both part of the Accor hospitality group.
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The Newpolitan pizzas go into the hotter oven for about 90 seconds and are then placed in the cooler one for 60 seconds. 'This makes sure all our pizzas are fully cooked,' he says. 'When you eat a pizza that still has moisture inside, it will feel doughy and heavy. Our method drives the moisture out of the pizza.' The flour he uses for the dough is from Molino Casillo in Puglia, and includes the wheat germ. It comes to Singapore vacuum-packed with those enzymes still preserved, he adds. They work to break down proteins and starches, making the dough more digestible. The Newpolitan pies are priced from $45 for a Burrata one, and he also offers diners the option of getting a whole pizza with two different flavours, so they can try more. Chef Miscellaneo calls his restaurant the 'Disneyland of pizza' because he offers different styles. There is also the Roman-style Double Crunch, made with a wetter dough and crisp the way Romans like it. 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'Even when using the same type of flour with the same recipe, the dough will turn out different from day to day, and it does take some experience and knowledge to be able to manage it to achieve the desired result.' Prices start at $16 for a Margherita, that classic pie topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte and pecorino cheeses, basil and olive oil. This, together with Spiced Coconut Chicken ($18.50), topped with tom kha sauce, chicken thigh, mushroom, onion, coriander and chilli oil, are the bestsellers. The focus on the crust has paid off. He says: 'I've noticed more diners finishing the entire pizza without ditching the crust.' Sourdough pan pizza Goldenroy Sourdough Pizza Where: 125 Desker Road Open: Noon to 10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays), closed on Mondays Info: Pepperoni pizza from Goldenroy. PHOTO: GOLDENROY While working on his doctorate in chemistry at Stanford University, Goldenroy owner Roy Chan, 38, would head from Palo Alto to San Francisco in search of good food. He was drawn to Golden Boy Pizza, which always had a long queue. So enamoured was he of the thick and fluffy crust with a very crispy base that he developed his own pizza dough, starting in 2013, his first year in California. He uses a sourdough starter that is more than 100 years old and came from a bakery in the Bay Area. 'This special starter imparts a fragrant richness to the dough that I don't get with the other sourdough starters I've tried,' he says. Goldenroy started in 2020, and he sold his pizzas at East Village mall for takeout. Now, he has a 38-seat restaurant in Desker Road. Some 90 per cent of his business is takeout, although he says the pies are best when served right out of the oven. The square 25cm x 25cm pizzas are good for two people. Among the bestsellers are pies topped with seafood, including Kryptonite ($29), with clams and garlic; and Spongebob's Revenge ($34), with browned butter, scallops and onions. The flour is an unbleached variety from the US, and he ferments the dough, which has 60 per cent hydration, for 48 hours. The pizzas are cooked in a pan with olive oil in an electric oven at 250 deg C 'until the crust is golden'. He says: 'When fresh out of the oven, it has a very crispy bottom. It is an American-style pizza meant to be eaten straight from the box with your hands, not with fork and knife. 'Our pizzas are hand-stretched and baked in a pan of olive oil. This style is highly popular in the US, but in Singapore, we're the only ones serving it.' New Haven-New York hybrid Blue Label Pizza & Wine Where: 28 Ann Siang Road and 03-02 Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road Open: Noon to 11pm daily Info: Blue Label Pizza & Wine's The Travis Supreme pizza. PHOTO: BLUE LABEL PIZZA & WINE What chef and restaurateur Travis Masiero was trying to create with Blue Label was a pizza dough that lived in his mind. The 45-year-old American, who also owns Luke's Oyster Bar & Chop House in Gemmill Lane and Nixta in Amoy Street, says: 'I wanted to find the ideal combination of a crust that had the flavour and chew of a long fermented New York pizza dough with the crispness and 'charability' of a New Haven-style pizza, topped with high-quality, inventive ingredients.' He opened Blue Label in Ann Siang Road in 2017, and a second outlet at Mandarin Gallery in 2019. The pies are priced from $35, and options include The Travis Supreme ($39), topped with ground beef, sesame on the crust and cheddar-bacon melt; J-Dog ($42), topped with pork sausage, bacon, pepperoni, capers, jalapeno and red sauce; and Wish I Was A Baller ($42), topped with sliced steak, French's mustard, bechamel sauce, roasted onions, mushrooms and provolone cheese. He says: 'We make a hybrid style of pizza that is more gourmet and cheffy. We have our fans, people who appreciate this style.' The dough, made using a sourdough starter, has a hydration level of 64 per cent and is fermented for 72 hours. Blue Label uses an electric oven from Bakers Pride Oven Company in the US, popular in New York for making pizza. The pies are cooked at 325 deg C for six to eight minutes. 'We want to create pizzas that are flavourful and craveable,' chef Masiero says. 'I don't have a pizza background, so for me, it's about flavour. I'm not restrained by any pizza dogma.' New York Neapolitan Roberta's Where: B1-45/46 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue ; 01-04 Mandai Wildlife Reserve, 80 Mandai Lake Road Open: MBS – 11.30am to 11pm (weekdays), 11am to 11pm (weekends); Mandai – 11am to 10pm daily Info: Roberta's Bee Sting pizza. PHOTO: ROBERTA'S To make Roberta's pizza in Singapore taste like Roberta's pizza in Brooklyn, chef and co-owner Carlo Mirarchi had to make some changes to the dough, mostly to address the high humidity here. Speaking to The Straits Times at Roberta's new 103-seat restaurant at Mandai Wildlife Reserve, the 44-year-old says: 'If you come here with a hardcore mindset, you're going to have issues.' He made changes to the hydration level an d the f lour ratio, and made oven temperature tweaks too. Roberta's style of pizza, he adds, is close to the classic Neapolitan style. The hydration ranges from 65 to 72 per cent, and the dough is fermented for 72 hours. He uses a sourdough starter that is more than a decade old. The pies are baked for about two minutes at about 425 deg C, in a wood-fired Pavesi oven from Modena that is fuelled by pecan, apple and redwood. He says of the texture: 'It is relatively airy, with a slight chew and some crispness. There is a much greater undercarriage. When you hold it up, it doesn't flop over.' That last bit, he adds, assumes diners dive in the minute the pizza lands on their table. Roberta's, which opened its first restaurant in Brooklyn in 2008, gained traction for its wood-fired pizza. It opened its first Singapore restaurant at Marina Bay Sands in 2022, and is on a tear in 2025. Aside from the Mandai restaurant, which opened on April 30, it has also opened R Slice, offering takeaway pizza by the slice at Paragon mall. Its pies are priced from $26 for a Margherita, and bestsellers in Singapore include the Bee Sting ($30), topped with tomato, mozzarella, basil, spicy Calabrese salami, chilli and honey. At Mandai, there is Speckenwolf ($30), topped with mozzarella, prosciutto, mushrooms, red onions and oregano. Chef Mirarchi says of diners here: 'People are highly critical, but not in a bad way. They are not passive consumers.' Neapolitan with a twist Fortuna Where: 7 Craig Road Open: Noon to 3pm, 5.30 to 9.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays); noon to 3pm, 5.30 to 11pm (Fridays and Saturdays) Info: A selection of pizzas from Fortuna. PHOTO: FORTUNA At Fortuna, that buzzy, perpetually packed Italian restaurant in Tanjong Pagar, some of its pizzas come extra crisp. That is because the base is fried 'gently', says founder Egon Marzaioli, 32, and then baked. The toppings go on after the bases come out of the oven. He says of the extra step: 'That gives it an extra crisp snap without losing that airy softness inside. It's a balance of texture that elevates every bite.' These pizzas are priced from $35 for Sundays At Angela with San Marzano tomatoes, anchovies, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and oregano; to $45 for King Mazzara, topped with stracciata cheese, red prawns, semi-dried tomatoes, pesto and lemon zest. The brand, which chef Marzaioli started with two friends in Sydney in 2021, came to Singapore in 2024. Fortuna's classic pizza selection is priced from $24, for a small pizza yielding four slices of Queen Margherita. It also has a list of special pies, including Singapore Tribute (from $35), topped with San Marzano tomatoes, chilli crab sauce, crabmeat, lemon zest, parsley, fior di latte cheese and chilli oil. The dough, says the Naples-born chef, is made with flour from Molino Casillo, with 75 per cent hydration. It is fermented for 50 hours and cooked for 60 to 90 seconds at 430 to 480 deg C in a Valoriani oven from Tuscany. He says: 'The wood fire imparts a unique smoky flavour and perfect charring, creating a crust that's crisp yet tender – a hallmark of authentic, high-quality pizza.' Wagon wheel pizza L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele Where: 01-08 Mercure Icon Singapore City Centre, 8 Club Street Open: Noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm (Mondays to Saturdays); noon to 3pm, 6 to 10pm (Sundays) Info: Call 9823-5724 or go to Da Michele's wagon wheel pizzas. PHOTO: L'ANTICA PIZZERIA DA MICHELE The pizzas at L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele cannot be contained by the plates they are served on. Clocking in at 35 to 40cm, they are as big as their nickname, pizza a ruota di carro' or wagon wheel pizza. It comes from stretching the dough really thin, and there is a practical reason for this. Mr Marcello Mazzotta, 38, director and co-owner of Da Michele in Singapore, says: 'This style is a nod to the old-school pizzaioli in Naples, who would stretch the dough to be as big as possible to show generosity and feed hungry customers at an affordable price. 'It became a symbol of authentic, traditional and humble Neapolitan pizza-making.' The brand has a history that goes back to 1870 in Naples and is run by the Condurro family. The style is classic Neapolitan and, for decades, it served only two kinds of pizza – Marinara, topped with tomato sauce, garlic and oregano; and Margherita, topped with tomato sauce, Pecorino Romano and fior di latte cheeses, and fresh basil. The brand was famously featured in the 2010 movie Eat Pray Love, starring American actress Julia Roberts. Today, there are more than 50 Da Michele restaurants in the US, Britain, Spain, Switzerland, Germany, the United Arab Emirates and Japan, among other countries. The 120-seat one in Singapore opened in 2024 and was the first in Asia Pacific. A Da Michele will open in Bangkok later in 2025 at Siam Paragon mall. Mr Mazzotta says the dough is made with Caputo flour from Italy, with fresh brewer's yeast and 60 to 65 per cent hydration. It is fermented for 24 to 48 hours and cooked in a Stefano Ferrara oven at 480 to 500 deg C for 45 seconds. Pies are priced from $22 for a Marinara to $42 for a Burrata & Capocollo, topped with fior di latte cheese, black olives, sundried tomatoes, pecorino cheese, burrata and capocollo or dried cured pork neck. He adds: 'The uniqueness of the pizzas comes not from complexity but from purity, discipline and tradition. Every step and ingredient is essential to preserving the Neapolitan pizza heritage, and this minimalist approach is what makes our pizza world-renowned. 'We don't do experimentation and our chefs are trained to keep every pizza consistent.' Contemporary Neapolitan Vincenzo Capuano Singapore Where: 01-12 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Road Open: Noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm daily Info: One of the newest players in the artisanal pizza scene here is firmly rooted in Naples, but pizzaiolo Vincenzo Capuano's pies have a contemporary edge to them. The 35-year-old founder of the brand followed in his father and grandfather's footsteps. But where they relied on instinct and feel, he goes with precision. His pizza dough is made with a special blend of flour from Caputo called Nuvola Super, named for the cloud-like texture he wants to achieve. Chef Vincenzo Capuano with his Provola e Pepe pizza. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI He uses a preferment, a mix of flour, water and yeast that sits for 24 hours before being used, and an almost soupy dough with 80 per cent hydration. That ferments for 36 hours. The pizzas are cooked for about 120 seconds in a gas-powered oven that goes up to 480 deg C. The result, when done right, is a very puffy cornicione or rim, and diners can cut into the pizza with a pair of gold scissors placed on every table, to admire the air pockets in the dough. Chef Capuano has more than 30 restaurants – in Italy, the Netherlands, Germany and Kosovo. The 150-seat restaurant in Robertson Quay opened in May. Pizza options include Provola e Pepe ($28), topped with smoked provolone, pepper, hand-crushed tomatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil; Don Vincenzo ($30), its crust stuffed with ricotta cheese, and the pie topped with yellow cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino flakes, pepper, crumbled almonds and basil; and Bellaria ($32), topped with Datterino tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Parma ham and pesto. He says: 'My pizza comes from a family tradition, refined through years of study. The dough is light and digestible, and the contemporary style bridges respect for Naples with the desire to innovate.' Tokyo-Napoli style Pizza Studio Tamaki (opens on June 10) Where: 38 Tanjong Pagar Road Open: 11am to 3pm, 5 to 11pm ( weekdays); 11am to 3pm, 5pm to midnight (weekends ) Info: @ on Instagram Pizza Studio Tamaki founder Tsubasa Tamaki with his pizza dough. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI Singapore fans of Tokyo's Pizza Studio Tamaki need not fly to the Japanese capital for its Tokyo-Napoli-style pizza. J.A.P Dining Concepts, which runs Okinawan steakhouse Yappari Steak at VivoCity and Northpoint City, has partnered chef Tsubasa Tamaki to open Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Singapore. The 45-year-old, originally from Okinawa, trained with master pizzaiolo Susumu Kakinuma at Savoy, the pioneer of artisanal pizza in Japan. Chef Tamaki went on to launch Pizza Strada in Tokyo in 2011, but parted ways with his investors because their visions were not aligned. He started PST in 2017. He has two restaurants in Tokyo, one in Okinawa and another in Bangkok. The 72- seat Singapore one opens in Tanjong Pagar on June 10. Chef Tamaki came up with his light dough at Savoy because, he says, he wanted diners to be able to eat more than one pizza each. It is made with a special blend of flour, using Canadian and American wheat, that a Japanese mill makes for him. It is a little brown because he keeps some of the bran on the grain for nutrition. The dough has a hydration level of about 60 per cent and is fermented for over 30 hours. The pizzas cook in a Stefano Ferrara oven, which goes up to 500 deg C. It is wood-fired, powered by oak, cherry and beech. Tomato-based pies are in there for 70 seconds, while white-sauce pies get 60 seconds. PST's pizza have a special touch – the pizzaiolo throws Okinawan salt on the floor of the oven before sliding the pie in, to season the crust. Arrabbiata pizza at Pizza Studio Tamaki Singapore. PHOTO: PIZZA STUDIO TAMAKI SINGAPORE Options include Marinara ($24), topped with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano and basil; and Special Bianca ($39), topped with burrata, buffalo mozzarella and mascarpone cheese, and truffle oil. Other signatures include Bismarck ($32), topped with mozzarella, mushrooms, pork sausage, pecorino romano cheese and a Japanese egg. The chef's favourite is Arrabbiata ($30), topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, nduja sauce, garlic, parsley and black pepper. Tan Hsueh Yun is senior food correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers all aspects of the food and beverage scene in Singapore. Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.
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- Straits Times
Why restaurants like Scarpetta do not take reservations
Mr Theeviyan Raja (left), a front-of-house staff member at Scarpetta, welcomes diners as the restaurant opens for dinner. By 6pm, around 80 customers had joined the queue. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO Why restaurants like Scarpetta do not take reservations SINGAPORE – Dining out is a fairly straightforward process in Singapore, swathed, for the most part, in the certainty of a guaranteed seat. You pick a place, punch in your details and rock up at the prearranged hour. Recognition glints in the host's eyes as your name surfaces in the system. The food arrives after a while. You pay, you leave. In some cases, a special reservation link is sent to your e-mail, and the cycle begins anew. But what happens when a restaurant eschews convention for the unpredictability of a walk-in system? Suddenly, it is anyone's game. The question becomes not just what to order, but also what time to show? How long to wait? When to throw in the towel and leave? Restaurants that do not take reservations argue that there is a method to the madness. At Scarpetta, a viral pasta bar in Amoy Street, queues start an hour before doors opens. Once, the line stretched 10 units down to the food centre at the mouth of the street. The situation is a lot neater now that the restaurant has introduced a new system. The first 28 guests are seated when doors open and everyone else is given a time to return, their names scribbled down on a tiny blackboard. 'It's much better than what we had before, with just a straight queue. Some people would wait 2½ hours in the hot and humid weather, so they would be really grumpy and hangry (hungry and angry) by the time they got in,' says owner Aaron Yeunh , 32. Service moves fas t. Ea ch seating lasts about an hou r, a nd Scarpetta can accommodate three or four rounds of guests every night. This, Mr Yeunh says, is the only way he can sell handmade pasta in the middle of town for $17 to $26. 'The only way to charge these prices is with high volume. And if I need volume, I can't take reservations because that would limit my dinner seatings to two a night.' Queues at Scarpetta tend to snake along Amoy Street, once even reaching Amoy Street Food Centre. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO For restaurants like Mensho Tokyo Singapore at Raffles City, doing away with bookings helps to democratise the dining experience. No number of bots or connections will make the line move any faster. 'This ensures that every guest has an equal opportunity to enjoy our ramen, creating a welcoming and fair experience for all,' says a spokesperson for the Japanese chain. Likewise, Mr Lim Kian Chun, 33, chief executive of Ebb & Flow Gro up, which runs popular Italian restaurant Casa Vostra at Raffles City, adds: 'Physical queues keep things simple and accessible to customers of all ages, especially our segment of older customers who are less familiar or comfortable with digital reservation systems.' Cancelling cancel culture It is a type of survival tactic too. With cancellations rising across the board – Mr Yeunh says that a 20 to 30 per cent cancellation rate, which some restaurants are experiencing, is enough to kill a business – it is sometimes easier not to section off seats in advance. Mr Lim says: 'Implementing reservations introduces the element of unpredictability with no-shows, late arrivals and variable dining durations, which can disrupt the dining experience for other s.' By eliminating the logistical scramble, staff can focus on the parts that count the most: food and service. And that extra bandwidth comes in especially handy when walk-in traffic continues unabated throughout the night. The first 28 guests are seated when doors open and everyone else is given a time to return, their names scribbled down on a tiny blackboard. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO Mr Yeunh recalls: 'We were really grateful that response was so overwhelming when w e opened in February, but part of the issue was that we were running out of food. So, people would wait two hours, only to find that we've sold out half the men u. I imagine that would be incredibly frustrating. ' The seven-person team, now fortified with two extra chefs, has since fine-tuned operations to guarantee that all guests who wait in line will be able to order whichever dishes they came to try. They try to estimate based on the capacity of the restaurant, but as a general rule, 'we make as much as we can'. Casa Vostra's team also had to adjust to the daunting task of keeping up with demand while maintaining a consistent quality of food and service. Over a year in, Mr Lim says they have got the hang of things. 'We've worked very hard to improve our daily operations and food and service standards, and hav e managed to reduce waiting times while continuing to serve the same volume of customers.' Great expectations The longer the queue, the higher the expectation. 'It best be worth the wait,' quips chef consultant Fiona Tang, 35, who eventually snagged a seat at Scarpetta 2½ hours after arriving. Her sentiment is echoed by fellow diner Kelly Pohan, a 17-year-old student who visited Scarpetta in May. 'The food does not just have to be good, but also good enough to justify wasting two hour s. ' However, she also relished the anticipation of waiting to try very in-demand restaurants, whi ch ' creates more excitement'. Service at Scarpetta moves fast, with most diners finishing their meal within an hour. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO For 20-year-old undergraduate Raen Tan, a snaking queue – like the one she joined outside Casa Vostra – is a worthwhile gamble. 'It suggests that the food is either good or new. As someone who's adventurous, I'd be willing to queue to try new things that are popular or raved about.' Besides, as Ms Joey Chua, 29, a liquefied natural gas market analyst, points out: 'I can do many other things, such as read, look through e-mails, reply texts or daydream while queueing. To me, it doesn't really count as a waste of time.' In Singapore, where queueing has all but been gazetted as a national pastime, hers is far from an atypical view. Dr Hannah H. Chang, associate professor of marketing at SMU, says it is an example of social proofing – a phenomenon in which people make decisions by following the actions of those around them – that has found special resonance here. 'Queue culture is sometimes discussed as a demonstration of kiasuism, that if you don't queue, you may miss out on a good deal, experience or produc t.' Mr Sai Ming Liew, a senior adviser at global research and innovation consultancy Behavioural Insights Team, adds that while the tipping point may come when customers feel that a queue is not moving fast enough, the sunk cost fallacy sometimes keeps them in place longer tha n intended. 'The longer people spend in a queue, the more they start to feel a sense of psychological ownership over the object or experience they're waiting for. Because people are naturally averse to losses, this can make them reluctant to walk away, even if it might no longer be worthwhile,' he notes. Though this fear of missing out has proved something of a boon to Scarpetta, Mr Yeunh laughs off accusations that he is creating a queue for the sake of it. 'I always tell the team that we have to deliver. Don't skimp on the hospitality. Don't skimp on the food. Be super focused. Take our food really, really seriously.' In the past, before the blackboard system freed customers from having t o sta nd in line outside the restaurant , staff would try to sweeten the wait by handing out free drinks. Refreshments are also distributed outside at restaurants such as Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu at Raffles City. Nonetheless, some restaurants have caved and done away with their no-reservations policy. Spanish restaurant Esquina opened in 2012 and started accepting bookings in 2014, after it added a dining room on the second floor. Though walk-ins are more efficient for a busy restaurant like his, chef-owner Carlos Montobbio, 38, concedes that bookings made a big difference to the guest experience. 'We care a lot about service, and having people wait outside – especially if it's a business dinner, a date or regulars coming back – just didn't feel right. Letting people book a table gave them a much more comfortable and reliable experience,' he says. Others, like local cuisine chain Great Nanyang, which gets multiple queries a week about whether it takes reservations, have found a compromise of sorts. Since April, groups of at least 10 diners can secure their seats at any of its outlets in advance. 'As our customers have different dining time periods, it i s di fficult to get available empty tables side-by-side to combine for larger groups. To cater to groups of this size, we need to plan and set aside tables in advance,' says founder Keith Kang, 42. Though he is wary that the sight of empty tables may provoke some unhappiness among walk-in guests, no complaints have been made so far. Casa Vostra's Mr Lim is also grateful that most customers understand the reasons for the restaurant's policy, and vows to go the extra mile to maintain that trust. He says: 'Our team makes every effort to offer attentive service and maintain relationships with our regulars – from remembering their favourite dishes and preferences to connecting with them each time they dine.' Worth the wait? The next time you find yourself staring down the barrel of a weekend with no prearranged plans, try your luck at one of these no-reservations restaurants – the final bastions, some might say, of dinnertime democracy. Scarpetta Cacio e Pepe pasta with Crispy Guanciale from Scarpetta. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO Where: 47 Amoy Street Open: 11.30am to 2.30pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays), 6 to 10.30pm (Tuesdays and Wednesdays), 6 to 11pm ( Thursdays ), 6 to 11.30pm (Fridays and Saturdays) Info: @ on Instagram This chic 28-seater was modelled after the pasta bars of London – think Padella, the perennially popular Borough Market institution, and the like. So, it was that ethos of casual excellence that Mr Aaron Yeunh, who lived in the English capital for over a decade, sought to recreate here: great food at fair prices, without so much as a whiff of pretentiousness. Scarpetta's menu is lean and disciplined. It is split into four modest sections, with most prices hovering around the $10 to $20 range. The most expensive thing on sale is al granchio e limone ($26), a dish of taglioni with blue swimmer crab and confit garlic that would, in most other centrally located restaurants, have retailed for upwards of $30. There is undeniable finesse in the way pasta here is twirled – continuously and right before the eyes of hungry, restless diners too. The cacio e pepe ($20) is really a pasta alla gricia, with a black pepper-pecorino romano base and crispy guanciale topping. Whatever its name, it is a textural delight, perfect for anyone who prefers his or her pasta al dente and salted with pockets of fried fat. All'assassina from Scarpetta. ST PHOTO: BRIAN TEO The all'assassina ($18) with pomodoro tomatoes and chilli is more divisive, says Mr Yeunh. Diners might be forgiven for mistaking the messy nest of slightly burnt strands for a kitchen accident that snuck onto the table . But the char is intentional, and elevates the springy, spicy noodles in the same way wok hei breathes fragrance into a plate of bee hoon. Cut the heaviness with a radicchio salad dressed with a truffle vinaigrette and showered in parmigiano cheese ($14), before diving into the sweet embrace of dessert – milk gelato draped in extra virgin olive oil and flaky salt ($6). Tip: Visit during off-peak hours, such as 1.35pm on a weekday or after 8.45pm for dinner. Mensho Tokyo Mensho Tokyo Singapore is famous for its chicken soup ramen. ST PHOTO: CHERIE LOK Where: 03-43 Raffles City, 252 North Bridge Road Open: 11am to 9pm daily Info: @ on Instagram Mensho Tokyo, a Japanese ramen chain whose San Francisco outlet is currently listed in California's Michelin Guide, arrived in Singapore in July, trailed by hordes of curious diners eager for a sip of its umami-rich soup. Its signature toripaitan ($28++) la yers A5 wagyu chashu, smoked pork chasu, duck chasu, chicken chashu, king oyster mushroom strips and ajitama eggs on wavy wheat noodles. All this is steeped in a creamy chicken broth that does not immediately knock you out in the way that pork, with its stronge r fl avour, sometimes does. A dry alternative exists in the form of the A5 wagyu aburasoba ($41++), which blankets its chewy wheat noodles in two types of Miyazaki beef. A sauce made of barrel-aged shoyu adds savoury depth to this oily, indulgent bowl of noodles. Other more unconventional options include the duck matcha ($25++) and chilli crab ramen ($28++) – a Singapore-exclusive tribute to a local classic – which have yielded mixed reactions from diners. Th e restaurant also serves up a bevy of sides, like fried chicken ($12.80++) perfumed with Japanese black vinegar, crispy enoki chips ($8.80++) and torched corn with tare sauce ($8.80). Tip: Go on a Tuesday or Wednesday evening, when the restaurant tends to be quieter – you might even be able to enter without queueing. As wait times can reach up to 30 minutes on weekends, guests are encouraged to arrive early. Tonshou Hire katsu set from Tonshou. ST PHOTO: CHERIE LOK Where: 51 Tras Street Open: 11am to 9pm daily Info: @tonshou_sg on Instagram Tonshou is a Korean pork cutlet chain more than capable of going toe to toe with the top Japanese tonkatsu restaurants in Singapore. Its not-so-secret weapon? A charcoal-grilled pork cutlet that redefines what tonkatsu should look and taste like. Instead of rectangular blocks trimmed with fat – though it has those too – Tonshou's Instagram-famous hire katsu set ($28++) rolls in on blushing pork loin medallions. A meticulous four-stage cooking process packs the juices into the meat, ensuring the cutlet remains crispy yet succulent. The rosu katsu set ($28++), on the other hand, more closely resembles the version of this dish typically found at Japanese eateries, and offers much of the same textural duality, plus an added burst of fat. These breaded slabs of gold can also be stuffed between bread. A pork cutlet sandwich costs $21++, while a shrimp tempura sandwich goes for $24+ +. Because this is a Korean chain, all sets come with a small saucer of kimchi. The usual accoutrements follow too: miso soup, shredded cabbage and rice. Tip: The restaurant uses a QR-based remote queueing system, so join the waitlist before travelling to the restaurant to minimise waiting time. It is also in the process of setting up a reservation system. Casa Vostra Italian restaurant Casa Vostra has updated its menu with new dishes. PHOTO: CASA VOSTRA Where: 01-49/50/51 Raffles City, 252 North Bridge Road Open: 11.30am to 10pm daily Info: After a year at Raffles City, casual Italian joint Casa Vostra is still commanding formidable queues, even on weekday evenings. To keep up with the hype, the restaurant refreshed its menu in April, unveiling homely fare such as the aglio e olio ($15) inspired by the recipe of chef-owner Antonio Miscellaneo's moth er. It tosses in sun-dried tomatoes for some summery pizzazz. The beef cheek parpadelle ($25) is another new entrant worth waiting for. Silky pasta sheets act as the perfect vehicle to sop up a rich and meaty ragu stewed with tomatoes and smoked speck. A smattering of new sides have wound their way onto the menu too. For example, the baked scamorza ($6), a dangerously gooey puddle of melted cheese drizzled with honey. Last but not least, no trip to Casa Vostra is complete without a slice of its trademark Newpolitan pizza, dressed up this time with the sweet-savoury melange of Parma ham, fig puree, rocket, Parmigiano Reggiano, candied walnuts and Fior di latte mozzarella ($26). As always, the crust – whipped into shape by a long process of fermentation and baking – is perfectly airy and crisp. If its sweet undertones do not suit your palate, there is a steady selection of traditional flavours to pick from, all affordably priced and well under the $30 mark. Tip: Drop by from 2 to 5pm, the restaurant's off-peak hours. Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.
