logo
Can Savile Row Be Saved by Women Who Want Power Suits?

Can Savile Row Be Saved by Women Who Want Power Suits?

New York Times4 hours ago

Daisy Knatchbull first hit headlines in 2016 after waltzing into Royal Ascot — the week of horse races that is a cornerstone of the English summer social season — wearing a top hat, blue waistcoat, full morning coat with tails and six-inch Louboutin heels.
Never mind that morning suits were traditionally the sartorial reserve of English gentlemen. Ms. Knatchbull — a great-granddaughter of Earl Mountbatten of Burma and a third cousin of Prince William then employed in the press department of the Savile Row tailor Huntsman — had ruffled society feathers, becoming the first woman to wear the event's signature outfit.
'It also made me realize,' Ms. Knatchbull, now 32, said this month. 'that there was a serious appetite among women for bespoke tailoring and a suit-shaped gap for them on Savile Row.'
Ms. Knatchbull started selling made-to-measure suits in 2019 with just four styles. Initially known as the Deck, then rebranded in 2024 as Knatchbull, it was the first women's tailoring label to take up shop on the world's most famous street for men's clothing.
'On a street so full of history, and given how fast we had been growing, Knatchbull felt like a better way of saying to people we are building a new legacy with what we do,' she said.
Changing tastes in men's wear and a decades-long drift from formal wear, especially in the workplace, had left Savile Row in a state of perilous decline. The pandemic, with its elasticated waists and travel bans, hurt the street's legendary tailors further still, with some eventually going into liquidation.
Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Marvel Reportedly Paid "Millions" to King Charles to Film 'Avengers: Doomsday' at Windsor
Marvel Reportedly Paid "Millions" to King Charles to Film 'Avengers: Doomsday' at Windsor

Yahoo

timean hour ago

  • Yahoo

Marvel Reportedly Paid "Millions" to King Charles to Film 'Avengers: Doomsday' at Windsor

"Hearst Magazines and Yahoo may earn commission or revenue on some items through these links." The MCU is getting a royal cameo of sorts. Marvel Studios reportedly plans to film scenes for Avengers: Doomsday at Windsor Great Park this summer. According to The Sun, the Disney-owned studio paid an unspecified 'multi-million sum' to the royal family to be able to shoot the movie on location. Windsor Great Park is just under eight square miles and stretches from Windsor Castle to Ascot. It is the only royal park managed by the Crown Estates, and the King gets 25% of its annual profits. King Charles is also the ranger of Windsor Great Park, largely a ceremonial role in overseeing the stewardship and protection of the park. Windsor Great Park is a popular filming spot, serving as film set for movies such as Snow White and the Huntsman, Christopher Robin, and Bridget Jones's Baby. But it turned down a different Disney subsidiary a few years back. In 2017, the Crown Estate turned down a request from Lucasfilm to shoot scenes for Star Wars, although it was not specified which film was rejected. 'Our head isn't turned by star names or star films,' an estate spokesperson told the BBC at the time, explaining that the proposed scenes were not suitable for the park. Avengers: Doomsday is slated to be released in 2026. It is the fifth Avengers film and the first one since Endgame in 2019. Famed for its massive ensemble casts, Doomsday made even more headlines at Comic-Con in July 2024 when it was announced that Robert Downey, Jr. was returning to the franchise, but not in the role that launched the franchise—Iron Man—but rather a new character: Doctor Doom. He'll join familiar faces such as Chris Hemsworth, Florence Pugh, Vanessa Kirby, Pedro Pascal, Simu Liu, Tom Hiddleston, Anthony Mackie, and many, many more A-list actors when it hits theaters worldwide next year. Marvel also submitted a request to the Royal Borough of Windsor and Maidenhead for filming requests in May and are still pending approval. According to the BBC, plans filed with the application indicate a house, referred to as 'Annie Reynolds' house,' would be constructed near Prince Consort's Drive by the Windsor Great Park Environmental Centre. Per IGN, Annie Reynolds is the mother of Robert Reynolds. There isn't an actor listed for Annie on the IMDB page for the film, but Lewis Pullman played Robert Reynolds in this year's Thunderbolts and is returning for Doomsday. As to who will be on location at Windsor this summer remains unknown thus far. But we can guess who won't be there: per tradition dating back to Queen Victoria, the royal family retires to their Balmoral estate in Scotland for the summer. Sign up for Disney+ You Might Also Like 12 Weekend Getaway Spas For Every Type of Occasion 13 Beauty Tools to Up Your At-Home Facial Game

Why Pearls Go Skin Deep For Cora Sheibani
Why Pearls Go Skin Deep For Cora Sheibani

Forbes

time2 hours ago

  • Forbes

Why Pearls Go Skin Deep For Cora Sheibani

Ice Cream pearl rings by Cora Sheibani With vivd strings of precious beads and meticulously carved gemstones, Cora Sheibani has aways been inspired by the permanence of metals and minerals. But for her latest collection, unveiled last night at a private dinner in London, she chose another gem: the Skin Deep collection celebrates lustrous, fragile pearls, each one as individual as our own skin. In choosing to work with pearls for the first time in her two-decade career as a jewelry designer, she is creating a metaphor for vulnerability, beauty and the transformative nature of the human condition. 'I finally fell in love with pearls,' she explains, 'I like them for who they are. With their beautiful luster, they don't necessarily last forever, but despite their especially fragile sheen, I couldn't help being attracted to them and decided it was time for me to embark on a new collection.' From prized Akoya pearls to the often overlooked cultured pearl, via Tahitian and Edison varieties, many different kinds have found their way into the collection, in a gentle palette ranging from warm peach to creamy white via an especially vibrant violet. The Renaissance pearl earrings by Cora Sheibani In the Renaissance earrings, the quiet glow of soft gray pearls is accentuated against lavender gems, while the Ice Cream rings, deliciously styled as a double cornet with sorbet-colored pearl scoops, show the chromatic breadth of the gem of the oceans. The sheen itself is all-important; as the layers of nacre become a metaphor for superficial judgement of beauty when in fact, pearls tell a much deeper story, shaped by life during the growing process, just like human skin. For Sheibani, the collection is about embracing authenticity of both materials and attitude. For Skin Deep, she has revisited some of the forms and combinations of her existing collections. Models from Facets & Forms (2024) see pearls paired with geometric cuts, creating a tension between rounded natural forms, and the points of faceted stones. Elsewhere, those gold ice cream cones were initially part of the Copper Moulds collection, initially launched in 2008, but like all of Sheibani's work, no two pieces are alike. This means that each of her thematic collections continue to evolve and develop like living entities of their own, as she is inspired to create different color combinations. FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder Cora Sheibani at home in London, wearing a necklace from the Colour & Contradictions collection and ... More the Cactus Leaf bracelet "I design jewellery because I like to wear it. I look at my jewellery collection and think about what I'm missing, which is what inspires me as to what to design next,' she explains. 'Even if I make the same design again, it will be in a different color-way, or there will be a variation, because I think that real luxury is being able to have something unique. It's not something that you can buy everywhere.' For much of the past two decades, color has been a guiding light. Once she has the theme and foundation forms of her collection, work turns very swiftly to the color pairings of different stones and metals. When we meet in Paris, she explains that she finds color energizing, and it's impossible not to feel the same in front of her rainbow-hued jewelry. Hers is a bewitching world in which nephrite jade cacti rings vie for space with anodized aluminum pot plant earrings, and punchy lozenges of blue chalcedony and faceted smoky quartz The Ice Cream ring, white gold and pearls. Often unusual and always original, the combinations are intuitive, rooted in an innate sense of style that owes much to her family background in the art world. Her father, Bruno Bischofberger, a Swiss art dealer, met her American mother, Christina Clifton in Zurich, and she was schooled in art history over the breakfast table. Her childhood bedroom contained furniture from her parents' Memphis group collection and family holidays might include Jean-Michel Basquiat, with whom she collaborated on a painting as a small child, in 1984. A year later her father hosted an Andy Warhol exhibition hung at child-height, to suit Cora and her brother, Magnus. 'I grew up with art history, so I my approach design is that revisiting existing ideas and themes is not out of bounds,' she says, of how her family background has shaped her creative practice. 'Actually, I don't think there's anything out of bounds. I love things that are conceptually or intellectually interesting, but if the design itself is not beautiful, then there's no point.' A visual learner, once her education was formalized with an art history degree, she gravitated towards jewelry as a channel for her creativity. Pearl and gemstone earring by Cora Sheibani One of her first jewelry purchases was an antique bronze ring in her teens, which she wore daily until it broke. She saved up and duly found two Greek and Roman replacements, which she wore with African bead bracelets in a characteristically bold approach to pairing and contrast. This would later resurface most strongly in the Colour & Contradiction collection, which featured polished — and often highly unusual — stones with faceted gold, an irreverent take on the more usual treatments. "I think back to the times I went to gem fairs when I was younger and not all doors were open to me. Now this is my world,' she reflects on her career. Her collections start life in her sketchbooks and eschewing wholesale-scale production in Asia, most pieces are made by her goldsmith, Sebastian Fässler, in Switzerland, apart from earrings which are developed with 'a female goldsmith, who wears earrings herself. It's much easier to work with her because she can wear them for the day and understand the subtlety of what's important and what works. Even though a lot of other Swiss and European companies have started producing in Asia, I'm holding onto production in Europe, using European craftspeople,' she continues. 'Some of my colored gemstones are cut in Bangkok and my custom-cut diamonds are cut in Israel, because that's where the expertise is,' she explains, but an overall focus on European craftsmanship is a refreshing perspective, as traditional jewelry craft is increasingly threatened by technology. Cora Sheibani wearing pearl necklaces from the Skin Deep collection Throughout her career to date, Sheibani's journey has been marked by a determination to go her own way and control her own design narrative. Her work is visually tied to her own style and image; she has always modeled her own jewelry for look books and marketing, her daughter now steps in alongside her mother, but the overall Sheibani aesthetic is very much based on an instinct for design nourished by formative years steeped in a rich artistic culture. "When your kids grow up, you want them to be proud of what you've achieved,' she says during our conversation, and I have no doubt that this applies to her own children who are growing up watching their mother model authenticity and individuality, much like her beloved pearls.

UK Actors Union Says 'Thousands Of Performers' Have Been 'Digitally Scanned On Set Without Their Informed Consent' In Open Letter To Pact
UK Actors Union Says 'Thousands Of Performers' Have Been 'Digitally Scanned On Set Without Their Informed Consent' In Open Letter To Pact

Yahoo

time2 hours ago

  • Yahoo

UK Actors Union Says 'Thousands Of Performers' Have Been 'Digitally Scanned On Set Without Their Informed Consent' In Open Letter To Pact

EXCLUSIVE: Thousands of UK actors have been 'digitally scanned on set without their informed consent,' according to an open letter from Brit actors union Equity urging progress on artificial intelligence as it returns to the negotiating table with Pact. Deadline is told the likes of British actors Tamsin Greig, Alan Davies, Nicola Walker and Wilf Scolding have so far signed the letter, which was published last week. More from Deadline Donald Trump's "One Big Beautiful Bill" Can Retain Provision That Bans States From Regulating AI, Senate Parliamentarian Concludes Bruce Lee & Jackie Chan Films Among Kung Fu Classics Set For AI Restorations Screenwriter Scott Z. Burns' New Podcast Poses The Question: Is AI Itself A 'Contagion' Sequel? 'We also have no transparency around how our performances, likeness and personal data are being recorded, stored and processed within the context of the production and beyond,' Equity wrote, in the letter to Pact that has amassed nearly 1,500 signatures. The letter comes a day before Equity and the producer trade body are due to sit down for yet another round of negotiations on a set of new collective agreements that has been rumbling for around 12 months, with AI safeguards proving quite the sticking point. Equity has been upping the stakes in recent months, with re-elected General Secretary Paul Fleming saying the union is 'industrial action ready' if negotiations keep failing while the union threatened court action to the BBC, ITV, Disney and Pact if members rights are breached in the training of AI models. 'We are writing ahead of your negotiation meeting with Equity Officials on 25 June to express concern at the lack of progress on securing AI protections for performers,' wrote Equity in the open letter. 'We believe this is unacceptable and urge Pact to prioritise this crucial area affecting our industry and livelihoods.' Pact declined comment. Using the new U.S. SAG-AFTRA contacts as a partial blueprint, Equity's claim with Pact is tailored to the implications of generative AI for different categories of actor including dubbing and supporting artists. Equity said it has put forward 'a constructive proposal' including 'important provisions on AI training, which the union has made clear is a red line in these negotiations.' 'We will not accept any deal that does not grant us key protections for the use of our personal data for training AI systems and creating AI-generated performances,' it added today. The collective agreements being negotiated govern the vast majority of British TV shows and indie movies. Adding to the confusion, the BBC and ITV's separate agreements with Equity failed to include artificial intelligence safeguards as the broadcasters did not want to include them until the Equity-Pact negotiations are resolved. The broadcasters have insisted that 'discussion around AI provisions remains firmly on the table.' The move comes as the UK government considers legislation that would mean copyright holders must opt-out from having their material used for training generative AI models. A BFI report earlier this month revealed that scripts from more than 130,000 films and TV shows have been used to train such models. Best of Deadline 'The Gilded Age' Season 3 Release Schedule: When Do New Episodes Come Out? 2025 TV Series Renewals: Photo Gallery Sean 'Diddy' Combs Sex-Trafficking Trial Updates: Cassie Ventura's Testimony, $10M Hotel Settlement, Drugs, Violence, & The Feds

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into a world of global content with local flavor? Download Daily8 app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store