KEN by Kamatsuda Review: Is this Dubai's most expensive restaurant?

FACT

07-04-2025

The Japanese restaurant specialises in rare Wagyu beef.
Dubai is a city known for its expensive tastes, from top-tier hotels to supercars, super yachts and fine dining experiences such as Sublimotion (AED 5,000 per head), FZN (AED 2,000 per head) and Row on 45 (AED AED 1,245 per head), which despite the prominent price point have become the trend du jour for both customers and critics.
Located in The Dubai EDITION, the newly opened KEN by Kamatsuda follows this trajectory but is not a restaurant for the masses. It's a hushed, reverent space for those who seek their sushi with substance. Owner and chef Ken Kamatsuda takes pride in his direct relationships with Japanese producers, allowing him to source rare and exclusive ingredients, many of which are found nowhere else in Dubai. The menu features prized Awa Wagyu beef, renowned for its rich flavour, sweet marbling, and melt-in-your-mouth texture, as well as fresh Saga Red Uni, flown in directly from Toyosu Market in Japan. However, it's the restaurant's omakase experience, priced at AED 5,000 per head, that has garnered much attention.
Taking over the space on the hotel's first floor previously occupied by the cocktail bar Ergo, KEN by Kamatsuda has stripped away the industrial brashness of its former guise and replaced it with a discreet dining room. The minimalist interior is a masterstroke in Japanese restraint: subtle lighting, clean lines and touches of raw wood draw the eye directly to the showpiece—a small sushi counter behind which the magic unfolds. There are no distractions here, just the knife work of a culinary team whose focus is absolute.
Touches of nature creep into the dining room via stones and small Bonsai trees placed strategically between guests' chopsticks and glassware, bringing a sense of nature into an otherwise urban environment; a grand piano provides the soundtrack, yet the focus remains on the premium ingredients.
The omakase menu (priced between AED 1,200 and AED 5,000 per head) is an exercise in elevated simplicity that leaves your meal entirely in the hands of Chef Kamatsuda. The Gokan offering, translating loosely to 'the five senses,' comprises thirteen dishes, all honouring the heritage of Japanese Kaiseki while celebrating Dubai's appetite for indulgence.
The procession opens with a Luxury Bowl, a jewel box of scallop, salmon roe, and Awa Wagyu, delicately topped with caviar. Wrapped in premium Yoshino River nori, it's a dish that whispers luxury.
Next comes the Omer Chawanmushi, a silken egg custard infused with blue crab and lobster that has been slow-cooked for three hours and crowned with a concentrated bisque. The result? Pure umami with a depth that could rival the ocean itself.
The Wagyu Niku Sushi is crafted with the highest-grade A5 Awa Wagyu, lightly seared and gently draped over vinegared rice. It melts on the tongue, leaving behind a beautiful buttery richness. The Otoro Nigiri, a decadent cut of buttery bluefin tuna, is pressed by hand and served just above room temperature, the fat melting on contact with the tongue. The kitchen team displays intimate energy and a gentle rhythm that mirrors the omakase experience. One course flows into the next with precision, each dish more quietly confident than the last.
Inspired by the sea of clouds over Mount Fuji, The Unkai is a poetic plate of charcoal-seared Awa Wagyu tataki, where the smoky aroma is lifted by basil oil and brightened by a sweet apple and onion sauce. Served amidst plumes of smoke in a bulbous glass bowl, it's a dish that commands silence at the counter, a moment to taste and reflect.
Then comes the Cuttlet Sandwich. A piece of premium A5 Wagyu tenderloin in garlic butter sauce, sandwiched between a soft, sweet brioche. Continuing the carnivorous cravings, an Awa Wagyu Steak, grilled low and slow, is sliced with surgical precision and paired with a sticky balsamic reduction and mashed potatoes.
The Awa Wagyu Yakisukiyaki takes the traditional sukiyaki and reimagines it, Kamatsuda-style, with grilled Awa Wagyu swimming in a luscious egg yolk sauce. Prepared with candy floss and soy, the notes of sweetness linger long after the final bite.
But of course, KEN doesn't stop there. Tableside Coconut Ice Cream is churned fresh before your eyes and scooped over a delicate fruit compote for a refreshing finale. And for the indecisive sweet tooth? A curated dessert plate tailored to your preferences with fresh fruits, Japanese cheesecake and matcha tiramisu rounds out the proceedings.
The service is attentive without hovering. The team explains each course with a reverence that's never rehearsed, and pairings are thoughtfully matched to elevate rather than overpower.
Dubai is no stranger to high-end Japanese dining. From the long-standing titans like Zuma to shiny new imports such as Kinugawa and Kiyoshi, the city has seen its fair share of omakase counters. While the comparison to the FACT Award-winning TakaHisa will inevitably be drawn, KEN by Kamatsuda offers a return to craftsmanship, a focus on premium products and meticulous attention to detail.
It won't be for everyone, and that's precisely the point. KEN by Kamatsuda doesn't shout for attention, and the premium pricing will deter some. There are no selfie walls or DJ sets, and in a city that often confuses flash for flavour, KEN by Kamatsuda is a welcome whisper.
GO: Visit https://kenbykamatsuda.ae for reservations and more information.