Why a train trip from Greece to Bulgaria is a foodie's dream journey
The bonds between Greece and Bulgaria are formed of complex and – at times – dramatic histories. Both have worn the yoke of empires, from Roman to Byzantine and Ottoman, which remain today in a legacy of temples, churches, mosques and forums – and also in a trail of dishes.
A journey between the two neighbouring European countries, starting in Athens and ending in Plovdiv, Bulgaria's second-largest city, reveals a collective history of cuisines. Although separated by mountain ranges, alphabets and political allegiances, both countries have long, proud food and wine traditions. While Greece has sold theirs to the world, Bulgaria's is known only to those who seek it out.
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Sydney Morning Herald
2 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
The last 800m to one of Australia's most historic spots is the toughest part of the trek
This story is part of the June 8 edition of Sunday Life. See all 14 stories. The final 30-odd kilometres of unsealed road to Cape York are perhaps its roughest. Starting from Bamaga, one of five Indigenous communities strung out across the Northern Peninsula Area, a single-lane track plagued with potholes and bulldust cuts through tangled rainforests inhabited by one of the last remaining cassowary populations in Queensland. The turn-back point for the less determined is at The Croc Tent, a roadside souvenir store stocking anything and everything related to the region, including crocodile snow domes and 'Snappers', a kind of male g-string that comes in one size only: XXL. Especially popular are garish, fishing-themed polo shirts that have been adopted as an unofficial uniform in this isolated part of the world. Following a tricky creek crossing further along the track, motorists travelling almost exclusively in four-wheel-drives must pass the decaying remains of the Cape York Wilderness Lodge, which closed for renovations in 2002 and never reopened. From there, the end of the road is in sight. Our final stop is a gravel clearing beside the sweeping sands of Frangipani Bay, just 800 metres from continental Australia's northernmost tip. It has taken our Outback Spirit tour group nine days to reach this point after starting our journey in Cairns, more than 1000 kilometres south. But from here, we must continue on foot. To make it this far, we'd travelled up the coast to Cooktown before turning inland across the Great Dividing Range. After departing the dripping wet Daintree rainforests, the remainder of our journey traversed savannah woodlands bordered by sandstone escarpments and crocodile-infested wetlands. While we were able to ride out the bumps and corrugations in the comfort of our rugged coach, thoughts were spared for those who preceded us. Loading The first European overland attempt to reach Cape York, an area inhabited by Indigenous people for tens of thousands of years, was led by Englishman Edmund Kennedy. Kennedy's 13-strong expedition party left Rockingham Bay in 1848, aiming to establish a route to the tip so that a port could be developed for trade with the East Indies. All but three of the group perished and the expedition failed. A further 17 years passed before two brothers, Frank and Alexander Jardine, made it all the way to the tip, opening a corridor for a telegraph line that would connect Laura, west of Cooktown, with Thursday Island, in the Torres Strait. After four years of toil and hardship, it was completed in 1887. In 1928, two New Zealanders followed the telegraph line to reach the cape in an Austin 7 car. It took them 38 days, with quicksand, forest fires and an average of 25 punctures a day slowing them down. At night, the two slept in the open on a bed of gum leaves, wrapped inside a mosquito net.
The Age
2 hours ago
- The Age
The last 800m to one of Australia's most historic spots is the toughest part of the trek
This story is part of the June 8 edition of Sunday Life. See all 14 stories. The final 30-odd kilometres of unsealed road to Cape York are perhaps its roughest. Starting from Bamaga, one of five Indigenous communities strung out across the Northern Peninsula Area, a single-lane track plagued with potholes and bulldust cuts through tangled rainforests inhabited by one of the last remaining cassowary populations in Queensland. The turn-back point for the less determined is at The Croc Tent, a roadside souvenir store stocking anything and everything related to the region, including crocodile snow domes and 'Snappers', a kind of male g-string that comes in one size only: XXL. Especially popular are garish, fishing-themed polo shirts that have been adopted as an unofficial uniform in this isolated part of the world. Following a tricky creek crossing further along the track, motorists travelling almost exclusively in four-wheel-drives must pass the decaying remains of the Cape York Wilderness Lodge, which closed for renovations in 2002 and never reopened. From there, the end of the road is in sight. Our final stop is a gravel clearing beside the sweeping sands of Frangipani Bay, just 800 metres from continental Australia's northernmost tip. It has taken our Outback Spirit tour group nine days to reach this point after starting our journey in Cairns, more than 1000 kilometres south. But from here, we must continue on foot. To make it this far, we'd travelled up the coast to Cooktown before turning inland across the Great Dividing Range. After departing the dripping wet Daintree rainforests, the remainder of our journey traversed savannah woodlands bordered by sandstone escarpments and crocodile-infested wetlands. While we were able to ride out the bumps and corrugations in the comfort of our rugged coach, thoughts were spared for those who preceded us. Loading The first European overland attempt to reach Cape York, an area inhabited by Indigenous people for tens of thousands of years, was led by Englishman Edmund Kennedy. Kennedy's 13-strong expedition party left Rockingham Bay in 1848, aiming to establish a route to the tip so that a port could be developed for trade with the East Indies. All but three of the group perished and the expedition failed. A further 17 years passed before two brothers, Frank and Alexander Jardine, made it all the way to the tip, opening a corridor for a telegraph line that would connect Laura, west of Cooktown, with Thursday Island, in the Torres Strait. After four years of toil and hardship, it was completed in 1887. In 1928, two New Zealanders followed the telegraph line to reach the cape in an Austin 7 car. It took them 38 days, with quicksand, forest fires and an average of 25 punctures a day slowing them down. At night, the two slept in the open on a bed of gum leaves, wrapped inside a mosquito net.
The Age
a day ago
- The Age
Cereal and a bread roll: You call this business class food, Qantas?
Uluru dream realised Owing to a surprise health issue, which has affected both my mobility and confidence, flying seemed like a challenge too far. Through all of these life changes my wife has been magnificent so, when she daydreamed about visiting Uluru to see the drone show, it moved me enough to take a deep breath and see if it could happen. From the moment we arrived at the terminal in Sydney, through Ayers Rock Airport, to be wheel-chaired back to baggage collection in Sydney, all the Qantas ground staff and flight crew were amazing – professional, calm, considerate and friendly. John Veitch, Burradoo, NSW Find my iPad While travelling to London earlier this year, I realised that I had left my iPad at the security check-in gate at Changi Airport. I discovered this about four hours into my Singapore Airlines flight to London and approached the senior cabin staffer who quickly helped me complete a 'lost property' email to Singapore. She also notified customer service at Heathrow. On arrival at Heathrow she personally introduced me to the customer service representative who said that he would take up my case. I was relieved but not too hopeful. Two days later, the CSO emailed me to tell me that they had found my iPad at Changi, and it was on its way to Heathrow. It duly arrived, and I arranged for it to be couriered to my residence in London, again with the CSO's help. Customer service at its finest. Peter Keane, Eltham, Victoria Tips included My wife and I recently inquired about a European tour by coach with Trafalgar. I have travelled with them before and they are exceptional. I tipped as I thought warranted throughout the trip. This time though, I was advised 'all tips and gratuities are included in the tour price'. I was told this amounted to $535. Add-on VAT/GST and 'incidental' expenses suddenly became testing. Involuntary tipping, in my opinion, is a form of automatic theft and should be outlawed. Ray Armstrong, Tweed Heads South, NSW Cabin kindness I'm a frequent traveller to unusual destinations. On recent Jetstar flights between Sydney and Melbourne, when boarding is via the stairs and not an air bridge, I've been delighted to be offered assistance by young men who take my cabin luggage up the stairs, then put it into the overhead locker. I'm 73 and fit-ish, but white-haired and these kind gestures, while unnecessary, were welcome, and accepted gratefully. There's a lot of goodwill out there. Fran Kirby, Castle Hill, NSW Oh, no Canada I messaged Virgin Airlines via their website about difficulties I was having booking seats on a code-share flight with Air Canada from Vancouver to Melbourne via Brisbane. Within three hours I had a response, and seats from Brisbane to Melbourne were booked at no charge. Air Canada, who we had done the original booking with, were difficult to reach, unhelpful and wanting to charge for the seats. I appreciated the service from Virgin – Air Canada, customer service matters. Sandy Guest, Yarraville, Vic Tip of the week: As you wish Aside from the Louvre in Paris, the Musee D'Orsay is possibly the most crowded museum in the city. It can be difficult to enjoy the fabulous paintings surrounded by hordes of people, many posing for pictures in front of the artworks, but a Carte Blanche ticket provides unlimited visits to the Orsay and the Musee de l'Orangerie and early access to the former at 9am. I filled in the form, available online, took it and a passport-sized photo to the Orangerie (where lines for ticket purchase are much shorter) for immediate entry and the cash desk issued me the card with attached picture, so no other identification document was needed when entering either museum. Being able to view the artworks with only a few other people is such a wonderful experience. Merryn Sterling, Randwick, NSW Tap turn-off Our family is staying in New York City and were advised by an official at the subway to tap on with our mobile phones at the gates, instead of buying a paper OMNY ticket from the machines. It may feel more convenient to simply tap, but all four of us were charged multiple times for a single ride at different times and at different stations. Although we tried to report it, there was no recourse with the Metropolitan Transportation Authority. We put in disputes with our banks and fortunately were refunded. Could have done without the hassle. Sally Polmear, Barkers Creek, Vic Bath-time Steve McKenna's report on visiting Bristol and Bath (Traveller, May 19) prompts me to alert readers to the excellent free walking tours of Bath by The Mayor of Bath's Honorary Guides ( Operating since 1934, these tours provide a fascinating insight into the history of this jewel of a city. Highly recommended, and even better, given the never-ending debate about tipping, no tips are accepted. Brooke Broughton, Leura, NSW Give Milan a break I am leaving Milan after a week and heartily disagree with your previous correspondents who have said it is grey and boring. Like all European cities, Milan has been transformed by a huge reduction in cars, replaced by walking, bikes, and excellent public transport. Notably there are no electric scooters. Streets are wide and clean, buildings majestic and beautiful, parks gorgeous and the food fabulous. Milanese are polite and unhurried and the only place a bit crowded was the stunning Duomo and nearby Galleria. Museums are wonderful and user-friendly and the house museums a delight. Every shop window is a design wonder. Take time, relax and enjoy. Heather Barker, Albert Park, Vic Flyover wonder Having been fortunate enough to experience a Qantas scenic flight over Antarctica many years ago, it gave me a vivid picture of the fortitude of those early explorers and the majesty of this untouched continent. Yes, if I had the money, I could actually stand on Antarctica and see its wonders close up, but is this a good idea? Every extra human encroachment of this pristine environment destroys part of its uniqueness, never to be recovered. Marjie Williamson, Blaxland, NSW Price watch On a recent road trip from Brisbane to Sydney and back (down the Pacific Highway and up the New England Highway) I was astounded at how much the price of fuel changed from town to town. The cheapest diesel we found was 162.9 a litre in Coffs Harbour. The most expensive at Macksville (193.9) just 40 minutes down the road. Thank goodness for fuel price watching apps like PetrolSpy. By using the reliable information on the app we made huge savings bypassing towns with expensive fuel, and motoring in to a town where we could save 20 or even 30 cents a litre. Ed Cooley, Buderim, Qld
