Latest news with #Byzantine
CNA
5 days ago
- CNA
Exploring Istanbul: Where to eat, what to see, where to stay
Istanbul, the Turkish city that straddles two continents, truly never sleeps. In the early mornings, seagulls swoop through the sky as motorbikes zip around corners and street vendors trundle their carts out onto the sidewalks. The bustle of 16 million people fills the days — and even the ubiquitous cats beloved by many locals seem occupied. Come evening, families, couples and friends spill into the city's enormous selection of restaurants and cafes, their conversations lubricated by omnipresent black tea. A centre of culture, commerce and power for more than 2,000 years, the city, known as Istanbul since 1930, with its Byzantine- and Ottoman-era structures, is a place where the past never feels distant. Yet contemporary culture thrives here. Those who venture into the many neighbourhoods beyond the well-trodden historic centre will be rewarded with stylish boutiques, exciting live music venues, bold restaurants, trendy bars, as well as contemporary and Modern art. FRIDAY 3pm | Explore Turkish art The Istanbul Modern, an imposing concrete and steel museum that opened in 2023, sits on a bank of the Bosporus, the busy waterway that divides the European and Asian sides of the city (entry, 750 lira, or US$19, approximately S$24.50). Rotating exhibitions on the ground floor showcase contemporary art. Upstairs, the permanent ' Floating Islands ' exhibition features Turkish artworks from the permanent collection, tracing shifts in Turkish life across the 20th and early 21st centuries. Accompanying placards provide helpful context about artists' education, lives and intentions. Artworks from the later decades include works exploring themes like womanhood, migration and machine intelligence. Don't skip the museum's roof deck, where you'll find 360-degree city views and a reflecting pool that has become a gathering point for seagulls. 4.30pm | Grab a snack and go shopping From the Istanbul Modern, head into Karakoy, a glitzy harbourside neighbourhood where, alongside five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants, outdoor stands hawk balik durum, or wraps with grilled fish and vegetables. One of those stands, Meshur Balikci Eyyup Usta, elevates the fish wrap with a pomegranate-molasses-and-spice coating (180 lira). Afterward, wander into the Cihangir, Cukurcuma and Kabatas neighborhoods, where every building — whether it's a jewel-toned townhouse or an overflowing antiques shop — has a distinct personality. Check out Local Makers, a concept store selling items by Turkish artisans, like silk scarves by Galene, artisanal Turkish sweets by Marsel Delights and watercolour colouring books by Naz Saner. At Turkish Modern, you'll find ear cuffs, which don't require piercing, with the evil eye design; elaborate Turkish rugs; and handmade olive-oil soap. 8pm | Dine at a revived 1960s villa With its Art Deco chandeliers, ivy-covered courtyard and caramel leather banquettes, Arkestra feels like a set out of a Great Gatsby remake. This remodelled 1960s villa in the posh Etiler neighbourhood, on the European side, has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a bistro and a music lounge, all of which require reservations that can be made via its website. In the restaurant, Cenk Debensason, the chef, prepares delights like the katsu sando, a thick slice of rare steak nestled between pillowy Japanese-style milk bread, or a light stone bass, a fish served with cabbage and yuzu butter (meal for two, about 9,000 lira). After dinner, head to the Listening Room, a music lounge where DJs spin vinyl either from the house collection or their own. Palm-tree-printed wallpaper and a white-wood balcony lend the space a tropical feel. Drinks include inventive cocktails like the Mandarin, a light, citrusy concoction made with yogurt liqueur and vodka (780 lira). WHERE TO STAY The Peninsula Istanbul, a five-star hotel that opened two years ago in what was once a ferry terminal, sits on the waterfront in the trendy Karakoy neighborhood across from the historic center. Behind the hotel, a 25m heated outdoor pool offers sweeping views of the city, and a dock serves as a water taxi stop. In the basement, the hotel has a hamam and an indoor pool, and upstairs, the Michelin-starred chef Fatih Tutak offers cuisine that draws on inspiration from places on the former Silk Road at Gallada. As with many hotels, rates are quoted in euros and vary based on availability and season. Here, they start at 850 euros, or US$980, in summer. Orientbank Hotel Istanbul, Autograph Collection, a short walk from the city's UNESCO-listed attractions such as the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, is a boutique hotel that used to be a bank. In the basement, a jazz bar occupies the former vault. Upstairs, a circular lounge offers views of the bustling Egyptian Bazaar and the striking Suleymaniye Mosque. A box of Turkish sweet treats and a customized bond certificate from the building's former life greet each guest on arrival. Rooms start at around €175. Monnas' Rooms, called Monnas Suite on some search engines and hotel booking websites, is a hotel with apartment-style rooms in Cihangir, a neighbourhood of hills and winding streets. A great option for families or groups of friends, Monnas' Rooms offers two- or three-bedroom renovated, spacious, well-decorated apartments for two nights or more, and the reception has 24-hour staffing. Apartments start at €190 a night. For short-term rentals on the European side, the ideal location is the swath of the Beyoglu district between Refik Saydam Caddesi, a thoroughfare with heavy traffic, and the waterfront. Adjacent to Beyoglu is Sisli, a more modern area that includes the affluent Bomonti and Nisantas neighbourhoods. On the Asian side, Kadikoy is a stylish neighbourhood with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars, as well as handy public transit connections. No trip to Istanbul is complete without a Turkish breakfast, or kahvalti, of cheeses, olives, spreads, breads, eggs and more. Kahve6, a popular cafe with the feel of a living room inside and a plant-filled, enclosed terrace in the back, offers several options. The Full On Breakfast, plenty for two people, comes with mulberry jam; kaymak, which is like a clotted cream, with honey; spicy tomato paste; olives; lor cheese, similar to cottage cheese, with pickled pepper; a bun; and a glass of strong, steaming Turkish tea (590 lira). Extend the meal with the addition of menemen, umami-rich scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers (260 lira). Or skip the Full On and instead try the Izmir Breakfast, which includes melted tulum cheese served in a cast-iron pan that's perfect for dipping simit, a sesame bread ring (395 lira). 12pm | Travel back in time In the Fatih district, the area that holds some of Istanbul's key UNESCO-designated historic sights, four must-see attractions are within easy walking distance of one another. Start with the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, a church built in the sixth century that was converted to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest of the city (entry, 1,050 lira). Next, visit the breathtaking Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Known as the Blue Mosque, it is a 17th-century structure decorated inside with 20,000 intricate tiles. Entry is prohibited for tourists during prayer times throughout the day, which change from day to day based on sunrise and sunset, and last about 90 minutes each, but is otherwise free of charge. Continue to Basilica Cistern, an underground complex built around the same time as the Hagia Sophia to store up to 100,000 tons of water for the city. Inside, enormous ancient columns stand amid shallow water, lit by blue, green and purple light (entry with audio guide, 1,500 lira). End at Topkapi Palace, a splendid complex that was once the residence of Ottoman sultans and includes a former harem and a museum showcasing jewels, textiles and weapons. Grab a bite between stops at Hocapasa Pidecisi, which specialises in pide, a large flatbread with toppings like ground meat, cheese and vegetables (one pide, 300 to 400 lira). 3pm | Get the royal treatment at a hamam For the ultimate relaxation experience, visit the Zeyrek Cinili Hamam, a 16th-century bathhouse that reopened recently after a 13-year, US$15 million restoration. Every session begins with a cold glass of sherbet, a diluted fruit juice. Next, an attendant guides you into the heated bathing area — the men's and women's areas are separate — where the surfaces are an elegant grey marble and the ceiling is decorated with star-shaped holes cut into the stone. The 50-minute Original treatment includes a full-body scrub, a hair wash and a decadent foam massage that feels like slipping into a cloud (€105, about US122, or S$163). At the end, relax with hot tea and refreshing cold towels on a daybed. Afterward, head across the street to Van Golu Gida, a shop selling spices and herbs that the owner scoops from large burlap sacks, and sweet-smelling soaps that can be cut to a custom size. 6pm | Glide between Asia and Europe for US$1 Given its arrangement on two continents divided by a narrow strip of water, Istanbul abounds with boat tours. The cheapest and easiest way to hit the seas is on a ferry. A ride from Eminonu, a harbourside section of the historic centre on the European side, to Kadikoy, a bustling area on the Asian side, takes about 20 minutes and offers spectacular views of the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Sea of Marmara (one one-way ticket, 40 lira). If the deck becomes too windy, pop inside for a hot Turkish coffee or black tea from the onboard cafe. Ferries are accessible from many points in the city and run regularly. Schedules are available on the ferry operator's website and on Google Maps, and you can tap to pay with a phone or a card. 6.30pm | Nibble your way through Kadikoy Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an Ein Beitrag geteilt von Tatar Salim Döner Lokantası (@tatarsalimdoner) In the lively heart of Kadikoy, locals crowd the narrow streets, shopping for wares, sipping tea and noshing on street foods. Assemble dinner based on what calls to you. Some suggestions: Start with a sampler of olives, cheeses and dips at Gozde Sarkuteri, a delicatessen that charges based on weight (for an assortment of snacks, expect to spend 200 to 300 lira), then cross the street to a shop called Ozcan Tursu 1935 for a cup of palate-cleansing pickle juice (30 lira). Head to Kadikoy Merkez Borekcisi, where you'll find plenty of seating, for borek, a flaky pastry with fillings like cheese or potatoes (140 lira). End at Tatar Salim, a comfortable, simple restaurant selling doner, juicy slices of lamb served with flatbread and a refreshing salad of herbs, lettuce and pomegranate (410 lira). No reservations needed. Grab a cocktail before or after your feast at the cozy Fahri Konsolos, where ingredients can include pistachio, quince and saffron, and drinks arrive with tiny snacks, like a sliver of homemade baklava (cocktails, 620 lira). 10pm | Rock out to live music Hop on a ferry, subway or bus, or catch a taxi back to the European side, and head for the well-to-do Bomonti neighborhood for a concert or a DJ gig at Babylon, part of an entertainment complex called Yapi Kredi B omontiada. Situated around a large courtyard buzzing with energy in the evenings, Yapi Kredi Bomontiada also has a museum dedicated to the photojournalist Ara Guler, who was known as the 'Eye of Istanbul,' that's open during the day, as well as several restaurants and an art exhibition space. The Populist serves beers produced on site by Torch Brewery. The Babylon lineup offers Turkish and international acts across genres, including rock, pop, folk and electronic (tickets about 700 lira). If these don't strike your fancy, check out Salon IKSV or Blind, live-music venues about 20 minutes away by taxi or bus, with lineups as global and diverse as Babylon's. For those with a sweet tooth, no visit to Istanbul is complete without baklava, the sweet, syrupy pastry made with layers of flaky dough. Karakoy Gulluoglu, a beloved bakery that opened in 1949, sells a range of these pastries, including chocolate or cold baklava, in a sleek, contemporary space. Next door is another popular cafe, Mahizer Baklava Karakoy, where you can find creative delights, such as a baklava ice cream sandwich, a Turkish variation on tres leches cake called trilece and fig pudding. Grab a Turkish tea or coffee and a selection of treats from both bakeries and walk over to the waterfront to taste and compare them side by side. Or if you prefer a savoury breakfast, Mahizer offers the classic Turkish kahvalti with menemen, crispy borek, fried halloumi and a selection of spreads. 10am | Escape to the islands Take the tram or the bus to the Kabatas ferry terminal to catch a ride to one of the Princes' Islands in the Sea of Marmara southeast of the city, a preferred getaway area for locals (one-way ticket, 88.38 lira). During the 90-minute boat ride, you might catch sight of frolicking dolphins. The four inhabited islands are rich with foliage, scenic overlooks and beaches. Motorised vehicles are banned, so visitors move around on foot, by bicycle or by electric shuttle. The largest and busiest island, Buyukada, has plenty of restaurants, boutiques, coffee and ice cream shops, and bike rental operators, and is famous for its elegant Ottoman-era mansions. Stop for a scoop at the quirky Buyukada Sekercisi Candy Island Cafe Patisserie, and dine on a broad selection of seafood dishes like grilled salmon on a stick or shrimp casserole as well as Turkish favorites like crispy pastries with melted cheese or eggplants with tomatoes at the Secret Garden Restaurant (dinner for two, about 2,500 lira).
Scotsman
5 days ago
- Business
- Scotsman
Up to 50% off Ottoman Hands jewellery in the summer sale
Get up to 50% off Ottoman Hands jewellery collection in the summer sale | Ottoman Hands This article contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission on items purchased through this article, but that does not affect our editorial judgement. The Ottoman Hands summer sale has begun, with discounts of up to 50% selected items. Sign up to our daily newsletter Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to Edinburgh News, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... This summer, elevate your jewellery game without breaking the bank. Ottoman Hands, the beloved British brand known for its handcrafted, trend-led pieces inspired by ancient Byzantine and Ottoman Hands has a massive 50% off in their summer sale. If you've been eyeing unique, artisan-made jewellery with a luxe touch, now's the time to indulge. We've handpicked three standout pieces that deserve a spot in your collection. Ottoman Hands' commitment to sustainable materials, artisan techniques, and distinctive design makes their summer sale not just an opportunity to save, but a chance to shop more consciously. Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring | Ottoman Hands Make a statement with the Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring. Crafted from 21ct gold plated recycled brass, this bold beauty features a striking ruby-coloured stone that catches the light from every angle. Its intricate detailing and regal hue make it perfect for summer soirées, weddings, or simply turning heads at brunch. Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace | Ottoman Hands Protect your energy in style. The Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace blends cultural symbolism with contemporary design, featuring delicate beads and a central evil eye charm, all on a 21ct gold-plated recycled brass chain. It's versatile enough to layer or wear solo, and at 40% off, it's your perfect daily talisman with a touch of sparkle. Sevda Gold Chain Necklace Sevda Gold Chain Necklace | Ottoman Hands Chunky yet refined, the Sevda Gold Chain Necklace is your go-to power accessory. Its high-shine 21ct gold-plated links add an instant luxe feel to even the simplest outfits — think white linen dress or crisp shirt and jeans. With a generous 40% discount, this timeless chain is a high-impact investment piece for less. Natalie Dixon is NationalWorld's Lifestyle reporter. If you liked this article and want to read more about fashion, beauty and lifestyle you can follow Natalie Dixon on X here. You can also Get the best style and fashion news with Natalie Dixon in Tuesday's NationalWorld newsletter - sign up now MySweetSmile Get wedding photo-ready with MySweetSmile's gentle teeth whitening range £ 20.99 Buy now Buy now Wedding season is here — and so are all the photos you'll treasure forever. Whether you're the bride, the groom or just a guest, you'll want a confident, glowing smile in every shot. That's where MySweetSmile comes in. This UK best-seller promises peroxide-free, gentle whitening that fits effortlessly into your routine. From their teeth whitening powder for brides to quick-fix strips for guests and a handy pen for grooms, you'll be ready for your close-up on the big day. Shop the full MySweetSmile wedding-ready range here. Discovery Cove Discover Orlando's hidden island paradise with exclusive early booking savings £ 115.00 Buy now Buy now Tucked away in the heart of Orlando, Discovery Cove is the all-inclusive tropical escape most visitors don't even know exists. Swim with dolphins, snorkel through vibrant reefs, hand-feed exotic birds and unwind on white-sand beaches — all in a serene, crowd-free setting with guest numbers capped daily. Right now, you can save up to 28% on 2026 bookings, plus an extra 12% off with code SUNNY, and enjoy a free premium drinks package for over-21s. But hurry — these early booking savings end soon. Explore Discovery Cove deals today
Scotsman
5 days ago
- Business
- Scotsman
Up to 50% off Ottoman Hands jewellery in the summer sale
Get up to 50% off Ottoman Hands jewellery collection in the summer sale | Ottoman Hands This article contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission on items purchased through this article, but that does not affect our editorial judgement. The Ottoman Hands summer sale has begun, with discounts of up to 50% selected items. Sign up to our daily newsletter – Regular news stories and round-ups from around Scotland direct to your inbox Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... This summer, elevate your jewellery game without breaking the bank. Ottoman Hands, the beloved British brand known for its handcrafted, trend-led pieces inspired by ancient Byzantine and Ottoman Hands has a massive 50% off in their summer sale. If you've been eyeing unique, artisan-made jewellery with a luxe touch, now's the time to indulge. We've handpicked three standout pieces that deserve a spot in your collection. Ottoman Hands' commitment to sustainable materials, artisan techniques, and distinctive design makes their summer sale not just an opportunity to save, but a chance to shop more consciously. Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring | Ottoman Hands Make a statement with the Dilara Ruby Cocktail Ring. Crafted from 21ct gold plated recycled brass, this bold beauty features a striking ruby-coloured stone that catches the light from every angle. Its intricate detailing and regal hue make it perfect for summer soirées, weddings, or simply turning heads at brunch. Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace | Ottoman Hands Protect your energy in style. The Neri Evil Eye Beaded Necklace blends cultural symbolism with contemporary design, featuring delicate beads and a central evil eye charm, all on a 21ct gold-plated recycled brass chain. It's versatile enough to layer or wear solo, and at 40% off, it's your perfect daily talisman with a touch of sparkle. Sevda Gold Chain Necklace Sevda Gold Chain Necklace | Ottoman Hands Chunky yet refined, the Sevda Gold Chain Necklace is your go-to power accessory. Its high-shine 21ct gold-plated links add an instant luxe feel to even the simplest outfits — think white linen dress or crisp shirt and jeans. With a generous 40% discount, this timeless chain is a high-impact investment piece for less. Natalie Dixon is NationalWorld's Lifestyle reporter. If you liked this article and want to read more about fashion, beauty and lifestyle you can follow Natalie Dixon on X here. You can also Get the best style and fashion news with Natalie Dixon in Tuesday's NationalWorld newsletter - sign up now MySweetSmile Get wedding photo-ready with MySweetSmile's gentle teeth whitening range £ 20.99 Buy now Buy now Wedding season is here — and so are all the photos you'll treasure forever. Whether you're the bride, the groom or just a guest, you'll want a confident, glowing smile in every shot. That's where MySweetSmile comes in. This UK best-seller promises peroxide-free, gentle whitening that fits effortlessly into your routine. From their teeth whitening powder for brides to quick-fix strips for guests and a handy pen for grooms, you'll be ready for your close-up on the big day. Shop the full MySweetSmile wedding-ready range here.
Yahoo
6 days ago
- Science
- Yahoo
New research reveals how Byzantine farmers adapted to droughts in the Negev's wine industry
'Our findings show how difficult it was to maintain agriculture in the desert and how vulnerable the system was during periods of prolonged drought," the researchers concluded. Even in the Byzantine period, wineries contributed to the local economy in the Negev, according to recently published research. Wine, a profitable and sought-after crop through millennia, was a thriving industry in the arid desert, but was still vulnerable, largely dependent on the amount of rainfall that would come to the region through the years. These findings, initially published in the academic journal PLOS ONE, were based on research conducted at the University of Haifa and uncovered via an innovative computational model. This model allowed researchers to reconstruct the production processes, the conditions that led to the industry's flourishing, and its subsequent collapse. 'Our research shows that ancient societies knew how to adapt to extreme climates and how dependent they were on natural resources and the ability to exploit them fully. This is an important insight for the current era of climate change as well,' said Prof. Guy Bar-Oz from the University of Haifa, one of the study's authors. The new research from the University of Haifa, conducted in collaboration with Prof. Gil Gambash, research student Barak Garty from the School of Archaeology and Maritime Cultures, and Prof. Sharona T. Levy from the Department of Learning and Instruction in the Faculty of Education, sought to unravel the secret of the resilience and durability of local agriculture in the Negev. Their goal was to understand how residents managed to maintain a commercial wine production system in the heart of the desert. Wine was one of the most profitable and sought-after crops in the Mediterranean Basin throughout history, reaching its peak in the arid Negev region during the Byzantine period (fourth to seventh centuries CE). Negev farmers explored advanced dryland agricultural methods Previous studies had indicated that Negev farmers employed advanced dryland agriculture methods, including building terraces, drainage channels, stone dams, and storage pits to collect rainwater and irrigate their vineyards and fields. However, a quantitative model to examine the extent to which these methods boosted yields or how vineyard production fared during drought and extreme climate changes had been lacking until now. The researchers developed a unique computer model by combining archaeological, environmental, and climatic data from the Byzantine Negev. This model incorporates details on terrain, soil types, terrace systems, and rainwater collection, alongside comprehensive information on precipitation amounts and evaporation rates. Through simulation, the team was able to estimate the water flow to vineyards, the grape yield farmers achieved, and their strategies for coping with prolonged droughts. 'The model allows us to simulate different scenarios and examine what happens to the agricultural system when the climate changes or when precipitation decreases dramatically. We created a tool that gave us a near real-time glimpse into how the desert inhabitants planned their agriculture and responded to extreme situations,' the researchers explained. The study's findings demonstrate that rainwater harvesting and terrace systems enabled Byzantine farmers to produce substantial quantities of wine, even with less than 100 mm of rain per year. The research also highlighted how strategically planning vineyards in wadis significantly increased the chances of success for desert agriculture, which remained highly dependent on rainfall. According to the model, a two-year drought resulted in nearly a one-third decrease in wine production compared to normal years, while a prolonged drought of five years led to a reduction of over 60 percent. The study further revealed that the recovery period for the agricultural system after extended dry spells could take more than six years. 'Our findings show how difficult it was to maintain agriculture in the desert and how vulnerable the system was during periods of prolonged drought. This is an important lesson for our time, highlighting the limitations of agriculture in arid regions and encouraging us to plan systems that will better cope with climate change,' the researchers concluded. Solve the daily Crossword
National Geographic
6 days ago
- General
- National Geographic
Nun's skeleton reveals that some ancient women were extreme hermits
Head of a holy woman, from a mosaic in Turkey. Photograph By Bridgeman Images Today the most extreme forms of devotion to God in Christianity involve tithing, abstaining from meat on Fridays and during Lent, taking religious orders and devoting oneself to a life of celibacy, and, perhaps, taking vows of poverty or even silence. All of these practices pale next to the forms of asceticism practiced in the Byzantine period, when the most dedicated monks isolated themselves from human contact in the desert, restricted their food and sleep, wrapped themselves in uncomfortable sore-inducing chains, and lived their lives on top of small pillars. Traditionally, the most hardcore ascetics were believed to have been men, but recent scholarly and archeological research has revealed that female monastics were equally devoted to self-mortification. In 1924, excavations at Khirbat el-Masaniʾ near Ramat Shlomo (in Israel) uncovered a Byzantine monastery dating to approximately 350–650 CE. Located just three kilometers northwest of Old Jerusalem, the monastery stood along one of the main roads leading from Jaffa and Lydda to the city. Among the tombs discovered at the site were the remains of an unidentified individual unusually wrapped in a metal chain. During the fifth century CE, as Christian monasticism was on the rise, the practice of self-chaining gained popularity among ascetics in Syria. Asceticism and bodily self-denial was seen as a way of emulating the suffering of Christ and drawing closer to God. At the time the tombs were excavated, it was widely believed that such ascetic practices were exclusive to men. So for nearly a century, scholars assumed this person had been male. However, a recent study employing advanced DNA analysis has revealed that the remains belonged to a woman. This would make this one of the first-ever archaeological finds of extreme asceticism among Byzantine women. (Eight things people get wrong about ancient Rome) Byzantine-style mosaic of the Garden of Eden, part of the Old Testament cycle from the Monreale Cathedral Mosaics in Palermo, Siciliy. The Latin inscription reads, MULIER SUGGESTIONI SERPENTIS TULIT DE FRUCTU ET COMEDIT DEDITQUE VIRO SUO ('At the serpent's suggestion, the woman picked the fruit and ate it, and gave it to the man.') Photograph By Ghigo Roli / Bridgeman Images Byzantine churches were often decorated with shimmering mosaics, portraying events from the life of Christ on their upper walls. This fragmentary head of Christ, with its caring expression, is probably from such a scene. Photograph By Gift of Mary Jaharis, in memory of her late husband, Michael, 2017, The Metropolitan Museum of Art A self-tormenting nun During the original excavation of Khirbat el-Masaniʾ, archaeologists uncovered two crypts containing scattered skeletal remains of multiple individuals—including children, women, and men. Based on the grave goods, burial context, and stratigraphy, these interments were dated to the fifth century CE. A third tomb, which held the highly fragmentary remains of the chained individual, was also discovered. At the time, the bones were too incomplete to determine the individual's sex or age at death. But this spring, a team of Israeli researchers, led by archeological scientists Dr. Paula Kotli from the Weizmann Institute of Science, finally pinned down an identity. By conducting a proteomic analysis on enamel obtained from the only tooth recovered from the tomb, the team determined that burial belonged to an adult aged between 30 and 60 years old at the time of their death. The results, published in the Journal of Archaeological Science, proved that the individual buried in chains in tomb three was actually a woman. As the authors note, 'the ascetic nun symbolizes a phenomenon of isolation, perhaps enclosure, and in extreme cases self-torment. This is the first evidence showing that the Byzantine self-torment ritual was performed by women and not exclusively by men.' The discovery marks a significant advance in the methods used to determine sex in fragmentary remains. Yet, evidence for asceticism among late antique women is more widespread than one might assume. (Christianity struggled to grow—until this skeptic became a believer) Detail of the 'Procession of Virgins' mosaics from the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna, Byzantine School, 6th century. Photograph By Leemage/Corbis/Getty Images Dr. Caroline Schroeder, Professor of Women's and Gender Studies and Professor of Data Scholarship at the University of Oklahoma and author of several pioneering studies on monasticism, told National Geographic, 'in late antiquity and Byzantium, people of all genders engaged in a wide variety of ascetic practices. In Egypt in the fourth and fifth centuries we have irrefutable evidence from papyri, monastic letters, and episcopal writings for women who practiced asceticism in their family homes, in homes they themselves owned or rented, and in communities of women [monasteries].' In general, asceticism meant abstaining from sex (even if married), limiting one's food intake, withdrawing from the world, rigorous engagement with prayer, and a life of discomfort and seclusion. These practices were not limited to Egypt. In Syria, we have copious evidence documenting what might be considered more extreme forms of asceticism. Schroeder mentioned a ninth-century male monk who described a women's monastery he encountered where residents lived in seclusion as stylites. Stylites 'were monks who lived for years atop a tall pillar, often exposed to nature's elements and totally dependent upon people on the ground to provide them with food and water,' Schroeder explained. 'The most famous is the original stylite, Symeon the Elder, who lived on his pillar for 36 years, praying, doing prostrations and other exercises, and experiencing physical decay. People came from all over for his blessings, to hear his preaching, and also to request his judgments in disputes between individuals and political leaders.' Stylites were physically constrained by the pillars—they were not able to stretch out fully, there were no bathroom breaks (which caused quite a stench), and they were exposed to the elements—and they also survived on limited sustenance and without the comfort of companionship. Schroeder pointed out that 'a monastery with women stylites is evidence that some women practiced as physically rigorous and severe asceticism as men.' With respect to the new study of the chained woman from outside Jerusalem, Schroeder pointed to an example recorded by fifth-century CE theologian Theodoret of Cyrrhus in his Religious History. In this collection of saint's lives, Theodoret describes visiting two Syriac sisters, Marana and Cyra, who wore heavy iron rings and chains as a form of extreme self-denial. According to Theodoret, these women lived in a roofless house—that exposed them to the unforgiving elements—the door of which had been sealed with mud and stones so that they were shut off from the world and unable to leave. Small windows allowed for food and water to be passed to the women. (Schroeder told me that Theodoret says that, since he was a bishop, they allowed him to dig through the door to see them.) The women wore iron collars, iron belts, and chains on their hands and feet. Even though the two women were secluded from the world, they, like Symeon the Stylite, became ancient Christian celebrities. They attracted pilgrims who travelled to receive their blessing. Saint Donatus, priest and anchorite, from "Les Images De Tous Les Saincts et Saintes de L'Année" (Images of All of the Saints and Religious Events of the Year.) Print By Jacques Callot , The Metropolitan Museum of Art Gender is a complicating question when it comes to asceticism because some women dressed as men when they entered monasteries. Dr. Christine Luckritz Marquis, Associate Professor of Church History at Union Presbyterian Seminary and author of 'Better Off Dead? Violence, Women, and Late Ancient Asceticism,' said 'the reality is that we have many individuals who were trans saints. While some women might merely dress as male monks to safely practice asceticism among men, there is no reason to believe that others did not truly feel themselves trans monks. And some men were castrated, becoming eunuchs for God, so they too did not fit into a simple two-sex binary.' The more fluid gender categories were complicated by the ambivalent attitude that male religious leaders had toward women in general. For commentators like Theodoret, Schroeder added, ascetic women were 'a bit of a paradox… On the one hand, women were viewed as inherently weaker than men and also the gender that carried the guilt of Eve for breaking God's command in the Garden of Eden. But on the other hand, they were capable of such strenuous devotions and, when they achieved them, were seen as even extra holy for going beyond the expectations of their gender.' An anchorhold against the south wall of All Saints church in Norfolk, United Kingdom. Built circa 1500 CE, it would have housed an anchorite devoted to solitary prayer. Photograph By UrbanImages/ Alamy From late antiquity onwards, into the medieval period, women's asceticism persisted. Anchorites—men and women who walled themselves up in permanent enclosures in lifelong solitary confinement—became more common among European women. Many of them lived in small cells, known as anchorholds, that were attached to local churches. In German-speaking regions, bishops would say the office for the dead as the anchorite entered their cell as a symbol of the ascetic's death to the world. Though small windows allowed them a limited view of the church's altar and access to food, water and the Eucharist, anchorites took vows to remain in their cells. The eleventh-century hagiographer Goscelin of Saint-Bertin refers to several anchorites who burned—or came close to burning—alive when the towns in which they lived in were sacked or looted. Other women embraced physical suffering an illness. In her book Holy Feast and Holy Fast, Caroline Walker Bynum documents the centrality of pain and illness to the spiritual lives of late medieval women. For those women even self-inflicted illness was a way of drawing near to God. Bynum writes that 'some Italian saints drank pus or scabs from lepers' sores.' In the German Nonnenbücher, a fourteenth-century collection of inspirational spiritual biographies of nuns authored by women, the desire for illness was so strong that the sisters exposed themselves 'to bitter cold' and prayed 'to be afflicted with leprosy.' The late fourteenth century, French anchoress Jane Mary of Maillé, 'stuck a thorn into her head in remembrance of Christ's crown of thorns.' As late as the sixteenth century, an account of the life of St. Alda of Siena recalled that she slept on a bed of paving stones, whipped herself with chains, and wore a crown of thorns. 'Among the more bizarre female behaviors' in this period, writes Bynum, 'were rolling in broken glass, jumping into ovens, hanging from a gibbet, and praying upside down.' For modern readers the critical question is why late antique people would want to engage in these practices of self-punishment and self-effacement at all. Theodoret characterizes Marana and Cyra's ascetic devotion as a kind of spiritual athleticism. Schroeder explained that the women took on these goals 'on these challenging practices with joy, knowing that the 'goal' or prize of their contests is a 'crown of victory' and eternity with Christ their 'beloved.'' Luckritz Marquis agreed, saying that while there were many reasons that people practiced asceticism, the goal was 'ultimately to be closer to God.'
