There's far more to Santiago than the Camino – and it's now easier than ever to visit

Telegraph

4 days ago

Boots, walking poles, and more than a couple of blisters. This may be the uniform of many a visitor arriving in Santiago de Compostela – the endpoint of storied ancient pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago – but the city isn't just the final stop in a long journey: it's reason enough to make a trip.
With a flight time of just over two hours from London, the Galician capital stands as a viable offbeat alternative to a weekend city break in popular Spanish spots like Madrid and Barcelona.
What's more, it's now easier to trade your hiking rucksack for a boarding pass, since Spanish carrier Vueling launched daily flights from Heathrow to Santiago de Compostela in the spring.
A mere 15 minutes after leaving the airport, you'll find yourself in the city's labyrinthine old town: a UNESCO World Heritage site, packed with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings, and crowned by the majestic Santiago Cathedral.
With the adjoining vast Praza do Obradoiro inevitably full of exhausted yet joyful groups of pilgrims – a profoundly charming thing to witness in itself – the cathedral, too, mirrors the city's architectural variety.
It began as a Romanesque structure in the 11th century before gaining Gothic touches in the 13th and 14th centuries, and was later adorned with dramatic Baroque flourishes in the 17th and 18th. Inside the cathedral, don't miss the extraordinary Pórtico de la Gloria, the Romanesque western entry carved in the 12th century by Master Mateo, whose breathtaking ensemble of biblical figures depict scenes from the Old Testament to the Last Judgement.
Equally unforgettable is the Botafumeiro, the cathedral's enormous silver incense burner.
Suspended from the ceiling of the transept, it swings in dramatic arcs during special services – a centuries-old ritual that was originally designed to mask the smell of the crowds arriving after long pilgrimages.
Wander north east, and you'll reach the Monastery of San Martiño Pinario, one of the largest monastic complexes in Europe.
Now functioning as a cemetery, the former grand Benedictine monastery has a church and museum that are open to visitors.
Slightly less serene, but no less inviting, the narrow lanes of the old town – including the ever-bustling Rúa do Franco – buzz with life.
Their stone arcades are lined with tapas bars offering chilled Albariño wine (or perhaps you'd rather a queimada, a punch traditionally set alight and subject to a ritual to ward off evil spirits) and polbo á feira, Galicia's most iconic dish: tender octopus, boiled and sliced, drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with coarse salt and smoky paprika.
Though there are dozens to discover (and stumbling across a well-kept secret is often the best way to find a dinner spot), some of the best tapas joints, serving up pimientos de Padrón (Padrón peppers), queso de tetilla (a local cheese famed for its conical shape) and empanada gallega (a savoury pie stuffed with seasonal fillings), include El Papatorio, Restaurante O Piorno, and Antollos pinchos e viños.
If you're looking for a taste of everyday life, or perhaps to try your hand at a little Galician cooking yourself, just a short stroll from the cathedral lies one of Santiago de Compostela's most vibrant foodie experiences: the Mercado de Abastos.
This bustling market has been the city's culinary heart since 1873, and remains the second most visited spot after the cathedral itself. Here, Galicia's rich bounty is proudly on display. Stalls overflow with glistening seafood hauled straight from the sea – razor clams, spider crabs, and the ever-present polbo (octopus) – and bunches of grelos (Galician turnip greens), and dense loaves of pan de broa (cornbread) tempt passing shoppers.
To end on a sweet note, savour a slice of tarta de Santiago almond cake from Confeitaría Caylo or churros at Churraría San Pedro, perhaps taken away to be enjoyed in the grand, leafy Parque da Alameda: both an urban escape and home to some of the best views over the cathedral spires.
After savouring the vibrant flavours of the city, a visit to some of its museums offers a perfect cultural complement. The Museo do Pobo Galego (Museum of the Galician People) provides a fascinating insight into Galicia's rich traditions, from folk art to rural life, housed in a beautiful former convent.
Right next door, the nearby Galician Centre of Contemporary Art showcases cutting-edge works by both local and international artists, reflecting Galicia's dynamic creative spirit.
Perhaps the most visually arresting emblem of Santiago de Compostela's refusal to be merely a relic of religious history, though, is the Cidade da Cultura de Galicia (City of Culture of Galicia). This cultural complex crests a nearby hill and draws inspiration from the historical city and its scallop shell symbol, yet is striking for its sculptural, amorphous architecture, designed by the renowned architect Peter Eisenman.
Although the full site was never realised, in part due to budget issues, it is nonetheless worthy of a detour: a wander around the site and a visit to the Gaiás Centre Museum – famed not least for its spectacular facade – underscores the depth and diversity of Santiago's cultural offering beyond its famous cathedral.
Exploring – even on a short city break, rather than a lengthy pilgrimage – can be tiring work. And while the Camino may conjure images of bunk beds and hostels, the city's monasteries and convents turned boutique hotels offer a perfect blend of elegance and authenticity.
Who says you have to walk 500 miles to deserve a beautiful place to rest your head?
Essentials
Vueling flies from London Heathrow to Santiago de Compostela from £70 return) and Hotel Monumento San Francisco has doubles from £90 per night, room only.