Spy writer John le Carré left clues for traveling in Cornwall, England. We followed the trail.

Boston Globe

23-04-2025

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A scenic train journey to Cornwall (from $69 as of mid-April; gwr.com) takes about five hours from Paddington Station in London to Penzance, where you can pick up a car rental. Call ahead for a pickup or take a short taxi ride to the car rental location, an
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Next, we make an overnight stop to visit friends in Dorset, home of England's spectacular
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As we continue our drive, the rolling pastures, abundant cows, and beautiful villages let us know we're getting closer to our destination.
David Cornwell, better known as John le Carré, in London in 2019.
CHARLOTTE HADDEN/NYT
When we visited in 2010, we stayed at a B&B near the historic artist enclave of Lamorna Cove. A handwritten letter from Cornwell had been delivered to our room earlier and was sitting on the fireplace mantel. His son, a friend of ours, had alerted him that we were going to be there.
Kim unfolded the letter and read it. Then he gave me a look. 'David Cornwell has given us a list of his favorite places here!' The letter contained precious advice from the author: his favorite pubs, restaurants, and scenic walks. It also contained, to our amazement, directions on how to meet him for dinner at his house.
We knew Cornwell was not in the habit of inviting random tourists to his home for dinner. But we also knew that the former intelligence officer and author of
Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy
and other classic spy thrillers had been a fan of Robert Newton, Kim's father. Robert was a popular actor in the United States and Britain in the 1940s who had grown up in Lamorna Cove.
Thus, the special invite — and a chance to experience some of Cornwell's favorite places.
Our accommodation this time is
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A letter from David Cornwell describing his favorite spots in Cornwall, taken at The Gurnard's Head Inn.
Kim Newton
Our cottage overlooks a babbling stream and woodland, where Birch once painted and fished for trout and where Kim's father played as a child. Be warned that walking on the path down to the cottage is not easy for everyone. Other accommodation options in the area include
The first place on Cornwell's list is the historic
Kim enjoys the sea bass, with lemon glazed fennel, salsify, and dill cream sauce. I choose the vegetarian option, which is salt baked celeriac, broth, Swiss chard, and walnut ketchup with roasted onion. For food on the cheaper end, try
The Lamorna Wink's pub sign depicting British actor Robert Newton, the writer's father-in-law, as Long John Silver in "Treasure Island."
Kim Newton
Over whiskey, we reminisce about our feast back in 2010 with Cornwell. We started with smoked trout and champagne on his terrace overlooking the coast. Spotting a tourist boat passing below, I waved back joyfully to the passengers who waved up to their beloved author. David seemed to be amused by my antics but laughingly asked me not to encourage them.
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Afterward, we went inside his home, once a collection of attached fishing cottages, where he lived with Jane. We talked with the author over the biggest, most beautifully cooked salmon we had ever seen. We had brought him a nice whiskey as a gift, yet discovered after dinner when we retired to his library, that his liquor cabinet contained an extensive whiskey collection.
Back in Lamorna Cove village, we stroll over to the local pub, the
Blessed by sunny weather on our second day in the area, we walk along a small portion of the
We get off the path to view the Merry Maidens, an ancient monument near Lamorna Cove made of 19 standing stones. The stones seem magical and the site yields wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. Then we drive to the white sands of Porthcurno Beach to take in the spectacular view of the turquoise waters and wet-suited surfers.
The Merry Maidens Stone Circle near Lamorna Cove.
Kim Newton
That evening, not far from Cornwell's house, we visit the
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Our day ends at the
The next morning, we venture to Penzance to visit
Afterward, we take a long walk on Marazion Beach, which overlooks
The nearby
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For those who like a leisurely stroll combined with shops and galleries, nearby Penzance has both. There are also many gardens to explore, including
The Gurnard's Head Inn, one of writer David Cornwell's favorite haunts.
Kim Newton
The next morning we stop in Mousehole (pronounced 'mowzul'), a picturesque fishing village that's become a foodie paradise in recent years. We have breakfast at one of its trendy restaurants. It's a different experience for us; we still remember Mousehole as an old-fashioned working fishing village. The beautifully presented breakfast is comforting and hearty.
On our final night, we stay at
Our stay here is the highlight of our visit. We take the bed and breakfast with dinner option and sink into the pub's coziness. An old-fashioned transistor radio is playing in our room on arrival. The bathtubs are large, and the heated towel rack and comfy king bed make this even more welcoming after walking the coastal trail.
Wild ponies graze on National Trust land near Gurnard's Head in Cornwall, England.
Kim Newton
After a hearty English breakfast in a dining room with a close-up view of the chef at work, we walk toward a massive rocky headland, called Gurnard's Head, where we see wild ponies grazing National Trust lands.
We walk part of Tinners' Way, a path that Cornwell called his favorite route, past Tregerthen Cottage (where D. H. Lawrence once lived and wrote), past Wicca Farm, and then back down the coast path to Zennor. The path is circular, beginning and ending at
This southwest area of Cornwall is wild and beautiful, and sometimes, if you listen, you can hear the ghostly whispers of the artists who lived here long ago. Now there are soft whispers of David Cornwell, too.
We can only speculate how Cornwell sustained his creative brilliance. Perhaps it had something to do with the freedom of walking this land — and having a great pint of ale afterward. Our letter gives us clues about the life he led. It's also a map for the region he loved — and something we can all cherish.
Writer Cheri Newton and photographer Kim Newton are based in Tucson. Send comments to [e-mail].