Sunscreen: All you need to know to pick the best SPF for your face, scalp and body
cancer
diagnosed in
Ireland
is skin cancer. According to the
Irish Cancer Society
, almost 12,000 new cases are reported each year, with more than 10 per cent being the most serious type – melanoma.
The vast majority of skin cancers are caused by exposure to UV rays, primarily from sunlight, but also, alarmingly, from artificial sources such as sunbeds. A
2021 Australian study
examining the link between melanoma detection during routine skin checks and mortality found that people who use tanning beds before the age of 35 increase their risk of developing melanoma by 75 per cent. In a group of 63 women diagnosed with melanoma before the age of 30, 61 had used tanning beds. That's a 97 per cent incidence rate.
One of the easiest, most accessible, and most affordable ways to protect your skin and significantly reduce your risk of skin cancer – aside from not using sunbeds, obviously – is to wear a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen every single day (forever).
It's also the best anti-ageing product out there.
Another study in 2013
determined that UV exposure is responsible for up to 80 per cent of visible facial ageing, including pigment disorders, fine lines and wrinkles, poor skin texture and more.
READ MORE
In short, wearing sunscreen every day is the ultimate way to protect and care for your skin – both now and in the long run. You can invest all the time and money you want in skincare products, but if you're not wearing sunscreen every day, it's really all for nothing.
And remember, no sunscreen blocks 100 per cent of the sun's rays. That's why it's important to take extra precautions, such as wearing a hat, using sunglasses to protect your eyes, avoiding the sun during peak hours, and reapplying regularly as needed.
What does SPF mean?
SPF stands for sun protection factor, and tells you how much longer your skin is protected from burning compared to not wearing sunscreen. For example, SPF30 means you could theoretically stay in the sun 30 times longer without burning.
I say theoretically as that number isn't exact, because UV exposure also depends on how strong the sun is. An hour outside in the morning, for example, might expose you to the same amount of UV as just 15 minutes in the afternoon, when the sun is at its most intense. This is why it's important to reapply broad-spectrum sunscreen often and be mindful of the time of day.
What do you mean by broad spectrum?
Broad spectrum means the sunscreen in question protects you from both UVA and UVB rays. In most cases, the term 'broad spectrum' is displayed on the packaging. In some cases, it's not, but this doesn't mean it's not broad-spectrum sunscreen. Look for the SPF number (which measures UVB rays), and for the UVA symbol (which measures UVA rays – it's usually inside a bubble), and if both are present, that means the product offers broad-spectrum protection.
What do UVA and UVB rays do to the skin?
Both are equally damaging to the skin. UVA rays cause ageing in the skin, fine lines, wrinkles, sunspots, reduced skin tone and more. UVB rays burn the skin and, in some cases, cause blistering. UVA rays can also penetrate glass, which is why it's important to wear sunscreen year-round. Both UVA and UVB rays can lead to skin cancer.
But don't they give my skin a healthy tan?
There's no such thing as a safe or healthy tan. UV rays damage the DNA in your skin cells and, in response, your body produces melanin – the pigment that gives your skin its colour. This process is what we commonly refer to as a 'tan' – but in reality, it's a sign of DNA injury. Even minimal tanning can contribute to premature ageing and significantly increase your risk of developing skin cancer.
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'We all want to enjoy time in the sun, but it's important to be careful,' says mother of woman (33) who died of melanoma
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]
What's the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens, and which one should I use?
Chemical and mineral sunscreens both protect against UV rays, but they work in different ways. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat before releasing them, while mineral sunscreens reflect the rays away from the skin.
Although mineral formulas were once thick and heavy, this is not the case nowadays, as brands have vastly improved the formula and texture of both types, and many products now blend the two. Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one you'll use every day – so focus less on the type and more on finding one you'll actually wear every day.
My favourite sunscreens
Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF50 (€26 from Space NK)
Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF50 (€26 from Space NK)
Summer Fridays Shade Drops SPF30 (€40 from Space NK)
Summer Fridays Shade Drops SPF30 (€40 from Space NK).
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50 (€18.99 from Boots)
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50 (€18.99 from Boots).
EltaMD UV Clear SPF46 (€59 from Institute of Dermatologists)
EltaMD UV Clear SPF46 (€59 from Institute of Dermatologists).
What factor sunscreen should I be wearing?
SPF50 is preferable, but dermatologists recommended a minimum of SPF30 every single day. SPF30 is considered high protection, while SPF50 is considered very high protection.
My moisturiser/foundation contains SPF – is this enough?
In a word, no. Sunscreen is not an ingredient. Its main job is to form a protective layer on the skin. That's why it's important to always use a stand-alone sunscreen, rather than relying on SPF in your other products. Also, consider how much of that product you're actually applying. SPF ratings are based on using a generous amount of sunscreen – about three finger lengths or a shot glass filled to the brim. This is an unrealistically heavy application for foundation or moisturiser.
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Is your SPF causing breakouts? We ask a dermatologist for advice
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How much sunscreen should I be applying?
The Irish Cancer Society recommends using 'a measure of half a teaspoon of sunscreen to cover each arm, the face, neck and ears. Use a measure of one teaspoon for each leg, the front and the back of the body.' In order words, a generous dollop that covers all exposed skin – and if you're not sure you've applied enough, apply more. And don't forget to reapply every two hours.
How do I reapply my sunscreen over make-up?
The days of struggling to reapply sunscreen over make-up without ruining your base are a thing of the past. There are now several excellent sunscreen mists on the market that are dry-touch and transparent. If anything, they feel like a refreshing, cool mist on the skin – so there's really no excuse not to reapply. Two of my long-time favourites are Sculpted by Aimee's Sun Mist SPF50 (€22 from sculptedbyaimee.com) and Ultrasun's SPF50 UV Face and Scalp Mist (€30 from Boots).
Sculpted by Aimee Sun Mist SPF50 (€22 from sculptedbyaimee.com)
Ultrasun SPF50 UV Face and Scalp Mist (€30 from Boots)
SPF and flash photography – is there any way to prevent flashback?
Most sunscreen products don't cause flashback. In some cases, however, some ingredients found in mineral sunscreens, like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, can leave a whitish glow on the skin under flash photography – but not always (especially with the upgraded formulations available nowadays).
If you're unsure about using sunscreen for an event where there will be flash photography, such as a wedding, it's always a good idea to do a test run beforehand under direct flash conditions.
What about my scalp and hairline?
The scalp and hairline can be protected by wearing a hat, or if that's not possible, by applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen mist or a sunscreen powder. One of the best sunscreen powders I've used is Supergoop! (Re)setting 100 per cent Mineral Powder SPF30 (€34 from Space NK).
Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF30 (€34 from Space NK)
It's very finely milled and can be easily dusted over the scalp – no white, powdery residue in sight. It's important to note that mists and powders should not be used as your primary sunscreen, however. They should only be used to top up or reapply over your initial liquid sunscreen.
Can I use sunscreen if I'm dealing with skin issues like perioral dermatitis?
Yes and no, as it really depends on each individual case. Most general skincare products, with the exception of a very basic cleanser and moisturiser, are often avoided when dealing with perioral dermatitis, and this can sometimes include sunscreen. Some research suggests, however, that mineral sunscreens can be a good option, if tolerated, because they contain zinc oxide, which has anti-inflammatory properties. That said, if you're struggling with PD, it's always best to consult your GP or dermatologist for advice and guidance.
Does sunscreen go out of date?
Yes. Depending on the type of sunscreen you choose, the majority are formulated to last somewhere between two and three years. You can confirm this with the 'period after opening' symbol on the packaging. It usually appears on the back and looks like a small jar with a number inside – this tells you how long the product is good for after opening.
Saying that, if the product has been stored incorrectly, like being left open or exposed to direct heat, it's likely that it will expire sooner. If it smells funny, has changed texture or generally just looks off, bin it. Using an expired product, especially sunscreen, is never a good idea, as you're putting your skin at risk.
How can I protect my lips and eyes?
Wear a lip balm or lip tint with high factor, broad-spectrum protection. There are lots of options to choose from. Two of my personal favourites include EltaMD UV Lip Balm SPF36 (€26 from Institute of Dermatologists) and UltraViolette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF50 (€20 from Space NK), which comes in several shades.
EltaMD UV Lip Balm SPF36 (€26 from Institute of Dermatologists)
Ultra Violette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF50 (€20 from Space NK)
For eyes, wear sunglasses, and use an eye cream that provides adequate protection while also looking after the delicate skin around the eyes. I love EltaMD UV AOX Eye Cream SPF30 (€67 from Institute of Dermatologists) and Medik8 Advanced Day Protect Eye Cream SPF30 (€46 from Space NK).
EltaMD UV AOX Eye Cream SPF30 (€67 from Institute of Dermatologists)
Medik8 Advanced Day Protect Eye Cream SPF30 (€46 from Space NK)
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