‘Modest fashion' headed for mainstream despite political hostility, say experts

The Guardian

15-06-2025

Fashion influenced by Islam and other religions is expected to become 'mainstream' globally, in spite of politicians singling out the burqa and the hijab, as the rise of 'modest fashion' is powered by influencers, luxury brands and big tech.
The Conservative leader, Kemi Badenoch, has said employers should be able to ban staff from wearing face coverings, before adding that she was not in favour of a government ban.
Her remarks came days after the Reform MP Sarah Pochin asked the prime minister, Keir Starmer, if he would ban the burqa, a veil which covers the face and body, following France's lead.
Clothing worn by some Muslim women has become a lightning rod for arguments about integration, personal liberty, women's rights and Islamophobia on both sides of the Channel. A French ban on children under 15 wearing the hijab was proposed last month, and in 2023, France banned girls in state schools from wearing the abaya, the loose-fitting robe worn by some Muslim women.
Nonetheless, recent research by Bath Spa University found that 'persistent and growing demand' for modest fashion internationally – typified by looser styles which cover the limbs with a high neckline – was driven by Muslim consumers and Instagram users, with Amazon and Farfetch emerging as market leaders at the affordable and luxury ends of the market respectively.
Bournemouth University's Dr Samreen Ashraf, who has pioneered UK research into modest fashion, said its growth was also driven by women's desire to avoid objectification. She said the market remained underserved, with issues around clear labelling from big brands and affordability with smaller suppliers.
'It's not just women with strong religious beliefs,' she added. Women who have faced body shaming or body dysmorphia, who don't have any belief, turn towards modest fashion's more flowing designs.
'Reports have suggested growth of the European modest clothing market from €56.8bn to €72.5bn between 2021 and 2025 – 17.2% of that is UK, of which 6.5% identify themselves as Muslim. That has been one of the reasons why there's been an upward turn.
'Also, with social media, people are feeling: 'I can fully express my religious or cultural identity.'. Especially when the likes of M&S and Asos and Uniqlo and H&M are also offering modest clothing.
'It's not just one religion however, but all faiths, and also empowerment: that if I don't want to reveal my body to others, why should I? Blunt statements from people in power don't serve any good purpose to women. Individual liberty, respect and tolerance are British values.'
Bath Spa University's 2025 research found that leading brands' production of hijab and Ramadan lines showed 'the evolution of modest fashion into a mainstream fashion subculture'. Significantly, Muslim influencers on TikTok, many of whom focus on modest fashion, exceeded 125m views in 2023, says the growth strategy research firm DinarStandard, which projects that 30% of the world's 15- to 29-year-olds will be Muslim by 2030.
The purchasing power of Muslim shoppers – including from wealthy Gulf states – is credited with leading luxury brands to enter the space, joining independent Muslim retailers and female entrepreneurs worldwide. The aesthetic overlaps with 'quiet luxury' and 'old money' styles, with 'longer hemlines' in common, according to Vogue Arabia.
A 2023, Bournemouth University study, led by Ashraf, found 'increasing stigma … associated with Islam post 9/11' had led Muslims to adopt a stronger sense of identity including through 'choosing modest clothing items'.
After Pochin's comments, Muslim Women's Network said women who wore the burqa, or other religious dress, were 'simply exercising their fundamental rights to freedom of expression and belief', while the Muslim Council of Britain said 'lazy tropes' were being used to malign a 'proudly British' community.