The best Nintendo Switch 2 cases
Nintendo Switch 2 Nintendo Switch Nintendo Switch OLED Nintendo Switch Lite
Console (with Joy-Cons attached) 4.5 x 10.7 x 0.55 inches 4.02 x 9.41 x 0.55 in. 4 x 9.5 x 0.55 in. 3.6 x 8.2 x 0.55 in.
Dock 4.5 x 7.9 x 2 inches 4.1 x 6.8 x 2.12 in. 4.1 x 6.9 x 2 in. N/A
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Tom's Guide
6 hours ago
- Tom's Guide
7 Nintendo Switch 2 display settings to change right now for the best picture performance
The Nintendo Switch 2 has landed, bringing with it tons of awesome gameplay opportunities thanks to its improved hardware. With all of the hype surrounding Nintendo's new console, you might dive in head-first to the new hardware and neglect the myriad of settings available to tweak. Some are clear cut and made perfect right out of the box, but it's handy to note their existence and understand what they do. Trust me, I'm just as excited to rip into Mario Kart World on my new Nintendo Switch 2. Several key elements still need to be considered before proceeding, especially if you're planning on playing games primarily docked and connected to one of the best TVs. So let's get into all the ways you can boost picture and audio performance on your Switch 2 by delving into these settings below. You'll notice there are actually two different display settings on your Switch 2 dedicated to "HDR Output." I'll go over both of them here as they sort of go hand-in-hand and it wouldn't really make sense to talk about a similar setting later on. The one found at the top of the settings simply just toggles HDR and it will most likely be turned on by default. This really only pertains to you if you're using an HDR-enabled TV. However, the best course of action is to just keep this setting on, even if you don't have an HDR-enabled TV. In the event you upgrade in the future, the Switch 2 will automatically recognize the HDR and you won't have to go and change this setting. Get instant access to breaking news, the hottest reviews, great deals and helpful tips. The second HDR Output relates to the Switch 2's software. You can toggle this second setting to three different modes, including "Off," "Compatible Software Only," or "For all Software." The latter setting is on by default, but you can set it to "Compatible Software Only" so it works specifically with games and apps that support the format. I actually recommend setting it to "Compatible Software Only" as this won't warp the colors of non-HDR titles being played on the Switch 2. The Switch 2 now finally has the potential to hit 4K resolutions, but before you go and switch it to the highest specification let's take a step back and assess first. "Automatic" is probably the best setting if you're relatively tech illiterate and aren't sure what resolution your TV has — but you can check this via "Dock Output Information" right below the resolution setting. For me, I prefer keeping the Switch 2 in lower resolutions, either 1440p or 1080p. This allows the Switch 2 to run at a faster 120Hz refresh rate at either resolution. In 4K, you're stuck at 60Hz (and 60fps in most titles). While it's still unclear which games might actually hit above the 60fps mark, I would rather have it set to a lower resolution for better performance. Essentially, this setting lets you choose between allowing your TV to catch the full range of RGB color values (0-255) versus a limited amount of them (16-235) to best suit your TV's color output. Out of the box this will be set to "Automatic," which is probably the best setting for most users. However, you'll want to change this to Full RGB to ensure the best possible results. Some TVs will be better equipped to handle the "Limited Range" setting, but you can always double check this by seeing if your TV can handle Full RGB in the user manual or online. Most modern displays, especially some of the best Samsung TVs and assorted LG models, can handle Full RGB. Most modern consoles have what's called CEC (Consumer Electronics Control), which allows a particular device to automatically turn on the TV when it's powered on. The Switch 2 comes equipped with this very function, only Nintendo calls it "Match TV Power state." This comes down to preference, but I like having that capability of grabbing a nearby controller and turning on my Switch and TV at the same time. I don't have to worry about scouring the couch for my TV remote, and it jumps right into the HDMI output my Switch 2 is connected to. It's a handy feature and you'll want to make sure it's enabled. The final two pieces of our display settings rundown for the Nintendo Switch 2 are ALLM and 120Hz mode. The former, which stands for Auto Low Latency Mode, is a setting largely tied to a TV's game picture setting and increases responsiveness, so it's best to ensure this is enabled, which it should be right out of the box. You'll also want to keep 120Hz mode enabled as already mentioned in the TV resolution section. This will ensure that games can run at 120Hz when playing in 1080p or 1440p, thus granting you crisp 120fps in some games. Which titles might actually hit that number is another story entirely. I've run a few Pokémon games so far and only saw locked 60fps gameplay even in 1080p, so it's hard to tell where you might see upgraded performance. We'll just have to do a bit more testing on this front. Much of the audio settings are cut and dry. They don't require too much if any tweaking, but one thing I will specify is TV Sound. Like most other settings on the Switch 2, you could leave this as "Automatic," but if you have a more bombastic audio system that supports 5.1 linear PCM, go ahead and change it to that setting. It's a bit unfortunate that the Switch 2 doesn't come equipped with Dolby Atmos support, but at least you can get some surround sound when it's docked. There's a variety of soundbars on the market that support 5.1 PCM, like the Sonos Arc and the Amazon Fire TV Soundbar, but check our best soundbars to find the one that fits your budget. Don't forget about Bluetooth audio. If you have a baby or a loved one sleeping next to you, some of the best wireless headphones will come in handy. You can also use this setting to pair up Bluetooth speakers if you're so inclined. On a side note, you will want to change one specific setting in Audio tied to headphones connected to the Nintendo Switch 2 and its Pro controller. Called "Lower Maximum Headphone Volume," the audio setting protects your ears from damage, but it largely reduces audio in a way that makes it much too low for general use.
Forbes
7 hours ago
- Forbes
Mario Kart World: How To Dodge Blue Shells
Mario Kart World I've been having a grand old time with Mario Kart World over the last few days on Nintendo Switch 2. Getting to grips with the new courses and exploring the open world has been quite delightful, though I still don't quite have the hang of wall riding. There's one thing that really grinds my gears about it though, and it's an issue I've had with Mario Kart games for years. That awful, terrible complete pain in the rear that is the blue shell. Anytime I have the lead for even longer than a minute in a grand prix, it feels like I get targeted with one of those things. I get why the blue shell exists. I know it's there to make races more tightly contested and stop one person from building up an insurmountable lead. But I hate it. I hate it with a burning fury. But all is not lost. There are ways to avoid getting clattered by this most painful of items without having to necessarily let someone overtake you. Thanks to a post I saw on Reddit, I learned that it's relatively easy to avoid the blue shell in Mario Kart World, at least in some modes and circumstances. In single-player and local co-op, there's a brand-new feature in the game you can use to your advantage. By hitting down on the D-pad, you'll activate the rewind function. This takes your racer back in time by a few seconds, though the rest of the race continues as normal. If you press the rewind button just as the blue shell is about to slam down on you, the miserable item is avoidable. Sure, you might lose a couple of seconds and have to catch up with opponents who have overtaken you. But at least you'll keep your momentum as well as any items you're holding. This won't work in online modes, unfortunately, and you'll need to get the timing right. Rewind too early and the blue shell will hit you anyway. But once you get used to tapping the down button at the right moment, blue shells may no longer be a problem for you in some modes. Rewind is one consistent way to avoid a blue shell, but there are others that work. You can also counter it if you get lucky and have a Super Horn. If you have a Mushroom or Bullet Bill and get the timing right, you can dodge the blue shell too. Hitting an obstacle or an item thrown by another player (or using a Boo that you have) at just the right moment can help you avoid the blue shell doom too, thanks to invincibility frames. Also, driving off the track at the right moment can help you keep your items if a blue shell is about to smash you -- that'll cost you three coins, though. Last but not least, triggering a Starman just before the blue shell strikes will protect you from it, as you become invincible when the star is in effect. YouTuber AbdallahSmash show these Mario Kart World techniques in action here: Happy racing! Follow my blog for coverage of video games and word games (and maybe more Mario Kart World and Nintendo Switch 2 coverage). It helps me out a lot! Follow me on Bluesky too! It's fun there. And make sure to subscribe to my newsletter, Pastimes!
Yahoo
7 hours ago
- Yahoo
Do Switch 1 controllers work on the Nintendo Switch 2?
When you buy through links on our articles, Future and its syndication partners may earn a commission. If you're a long-time Nintendo Switch owner who's eyeing up a Switch 2, or (like many on the T3 team) you've just taken delivery of the newer console, you might be looking at your collection of old controllers and wondering if they're now obsolete. Good news – I've been researching and testing, and working out whether you can keep hold of those controllers for use on the Switch 2, and the outlook is pretty positive. Nintendo indicated before the console's launch that many controllers would continue to work, and it looks like that's the case. I'll go category-by-category for the sake of simplicity, though. This is the big one – every Switch 1 owner has at least one pair of Joy-Cons that they might be hoping to use as multiplayer controllers on the Switch 2, and for the most part, that should work fine. Old Joy-Cons can connect wirelessly to the Switch 2, and work just like you'd hope they would – although there's no way to dock them with the Switch for charging. They'll also work when slotted into a grip, so you should be good to go. You can use them in Switch 1 or Switch 2 games, as well, but there's one big exception – mouse controls. These have been added to both new Joy-Cons, and if you use Switch 1 versions, you therefore won't be able to use the mode. It's not impossible that we'll see some Switch 2 games launch without compatibility with old Joy-Cons down the line. Nintendo has released a few controllers for the Switch 1 over the years, from the Pro Controller to NES, SNES and N64 wireless controllers for use with its back catalogue of retro games. The good news is that all of these will again work without any issues on the Switch 2 – although, like the older Joy-Cons, some of them will lose the ability to dock with the console. Even the Nintendo GameCube Controller adapter will work when plugged into the new dock. The Pro Controller is really similar to the new version for the Switch 2, in fact, basically only missing out on higher-fidelity rumble capabilities and the new C button for GameChat. This is probably the biggest category of controller out there, since many third-party options from the likes of PowerA and 8BitDo undercut the official Nintendo controllers handily. Again, it's good news for some people. If you use a controller wirelessly on the Nintendo Switch 1, there's a good chance that your controller will work the same on Switch 2 – although in some cases it may require a firmware update to do so. 8BitDo has confirmed that some of its controllers can be updated now to work as intended, so it basically boils down to a case-by-case situation.
