Frederick Lee lets us into his world of couture storytelling

Vogue Singapore

5 days ago

Frederick Lee Couture is a signature presence in Singapore's fashion landscape, known for marrying theatricality with Asian heritage. Since launching his label in 1998, Lee has built a reputation for bold, intricate couture that tells stories rooted in mythology, culture and personal experience. His work blends avant-garde silhouettes with traditional craftsmanship, drawing inspiration from everything from Chinese opera masks to natural textures. With a distinctive style that refuses to compromise, Lee pushes Singaporean fashion forward by creating wearable art that's unapologetically expressive and deeply layered. Blending Chinese opera motifs with contemporary form, this piece captures Frederick Lee's vision of couture as storytelling—rooted in heritage, layered with mythology, and boldly expressive. Courtesy of Frederick Lee Couture
How did you start your journey into fashion. What sparked your entry and what continues to drive your work today?
My inspiration comes from everywhere: personal stories, emotions, multicultural roots. I'm drawn to nature, history and even the darker sides of the human experience. Over time, that has shaped a distinct language of wearable art. Each garment I design is personal. Couture is storytelling through form, silhouette and texture, and every seam adds to the script. For me, fashion has always been about expression: bold, theatrical and unapologetically layered.
What are the biggest challenges you've faced as a designer in Singapore and how have they shaped your creative direction?
Balancing creativity with commercial viability has been a core challenge. But staying true to my ethos—fusing art, culture and craftsmanship—has helped me push through. The market may be small and fast-changing, but I've learnt that the only way forward is to build a brand identity so distinct it can't be ignored. It's not about pleasing everyone. It's about being unforgettable.
'For me, fashion has always been about expression: bold, theatrical and unapologetically layered.'
How does Singaporean culture shape your designs and how has your work evolved over the years?
I blend futuristic couture with Asian heritage. Whether it's Chinese opera masks, mythical creatures or intricate traditional techniques, my work is rooted in symbols and stories from our region. That's what makes it different from European couture—mine is avant-garde with an Asian soul. It's theatrical, but grounded in the textures and richness of where I come from. A sculptural silhouette that channels Lee's belief in couture as performance—moody, emotional, and unapologetically theatrical, like an opera brought to life in fabric and form. Courtesy of Frederick Lee Couture
How has your design aesthetic evolved over the years?
Every show, every collection is a milestone because they don't just showcase clothing, they unfold entire narratives. My aesthetic has grown more layered and experimental, but the core remains: couture as performance, as poetry. My evolution isn't about chasing trends; it's about refining the story I want to tell. Couture is culture, history, pride. It's the story you choose to wear.
What does 'home' mean to you and how does that feeling manifest in your creative process?
Home is the starting place of love, hope and dreams. It's where I can take a casual, human approach to life. That may have 'cost' me millions in income, but I consider it a small price for living a safe, creative, joyful life.
Having time to create is essential to joy and Singapore, with all its contradictions, gives me both structure and space. The magic of home is that it feels good to leave and even better to return. This intricate look reflects Lee's signature fusion of tradition and modernity—where cultural history shapes innovation, and every seam speaks of identity, pride, and personal narrative. Courtesy of Frederick Lee Couture
Where do you see homegrown fashion on the global stage and what makes it distinct in your eyes?
Singapore is young, fast-changing—but that's its power. See my work as a contribution to our evolving design heritage. I honour tradition, but never stay stuck in it. I use it as a springboard, not a boundary. Heritage gives me structure, modernity gives me movement. They're not in conflict; they're dance partners.
Legacy, to me, is creating garments that transcend time and remain beloved. I want to be remembered as a meticulous designer who honoured tradition while boldly pushing it forward.
If your design ethos were a Singaporean dish, what would it be and why?
Ayam buah keluak—rich, aromatic, soulful, dramatic. Just like my creations. Couture, to me, is opera: moody, emotional, theatrical. Every runway show is a scene, every seam speaks. That's the language I've built: bold, intricate and unforgettable.