
Gaia Series 96: Delicious food! Don't lose that taste
In this week's episode, viewers are taken on a deeply human journey through the kitchens and communities of three unique establishments, each confronting the poignant question of legacy and the challenge of succession. The programme explores the intimate stories behind Ramen Sanchin, Curry House Indoya and Restaurant Eiraku, institutions that are not merely places to eat, but cultural landmarks whose closures signal more than the end of a business.
The episode begins in Tokyo's Itabashi ward at Ramen Sanchin, a local favourite that once had over 100 locations. Today, only one remains. Owner Naruhito Yamazaki, 69, has run the shop for over two decades. Despite its signature Tonkoku Ramen and a loyal customer base, he has decided to close the shop due to the physical demands of the work and the lack of a successor.
'I just don't have the confidence to keep doing that every day,' Yamazaki admits. The shop is set to close on 30 March. On its final day, 200 servings of ramen sell out before the designated closing time. One customer remarks, 'It's sad thinking we might not see each other again.' Reflecting on the people he has served, Yamazaki says, 'I'll probably think of... so many different faces. That's what I'll miss most.'
The narrative then shifts to Takasaki City in Gunma Prefecture, where the once-thriving Curry House Indoya recently closed its doors. Founded in 1983 by Ryuhei Araki and his wife Chinami, Indoya had been a local icon, known for its popular Baked Cheese Curry. In 2023, the restaurant was handed over to Yuichiro Shuto, then 28 years old, who had trained under Araki before taking over operations.
'I really want to make sure this flavour that everyone loves gets properly passed on,' said Shuto at the time. He invested about 20 million yen (S$175,000) into the venture, which included 3 million yen for the business transfer, 1 million yen for the lease agreement and 1.5 million yen for equipment. The rest was used to cover operating losses. Despite initial support and mostly positive reviews, the restaurant struggled to regain its momentum.
Chinami Araki later shared in a written message, 'Out of the blue, Mr Shuto told us he wanted to close Curry House Indoya. I felt overwhelmed with a deep sense of sadness.' She added, 'If you could occasionally mention Curry House Indoya in conversations from time to time, I think that would make my husband very happy too.' The restaurant officially closed on 24 February 2025, just one year and ten months after the handover.
The episode ends in Setagaya, Tokyo, with a glimmer of hope at Restaurant Eiraku, a Western-style eatery run by 82-year-old Mitsuo Sato and his wife Miyoko, 83. Founded in 1967, the restaurant is known for its signature dish 'Chicken Fantasy', a creation of chicken thigh wrapped in egg and topped with demi-glace sauce. With their daughter unable to take over and age catching up, the couple had been preparing to close.
However, an intervention comes in the form of 'Atotsugi Restaurant', a successor matchmaking service initiated by Yoshinoya Holdings. 'It's a service that helps find successors,' explains project manager Arata Fujita. 'For people seeking a successor, and those who want to take over a long-established restaurant, we help match them.'
Pub Furusato in Shinjuku illustrates how the scheme works. Owner Toru Ochi, 71, had taken over the establishment eight years prior and was seeking a fourth-generation successor. Among the applicants, Ochi selected 42-year-old chef Takao Yamada, who currently prepares meals for a corporate athletic dormitory. Yamada said, 'I'm nervous, but mostly excited.'
Fujita, who facilitated the match, joined Yamada on his first day at Furusato. The new chef immediately began learning the restaurant's signature dishes, including its mustard-loaded potato salad. 'This feels like a good fit,' said Ochi. 'It might just be for now, though. You never know, right?'
Through these stories, the episode highlights the looming succession crisis in Japan's super-aged society. 'This is not a distant future problem. It's happening right now,' the narrator reminds viewers. Fujita underscores the urgency, saying, 'We can't let them disappear. There are fans out there, customers who care.' In a country where more and more baby boomers are turning 75, the need to preserve culinary heritage has never felt more immediate.
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