UAE-based chef Angelo Musa on crafting desserts that evoke emotion

Khaleej Times

05-03-2025

Food is a rainbow of feelings. It's a walk down a nostalgic hallway lined with memories, that echo of laughter you thought you forgot, that shiver down your neck from the explosion of flavour, that shared feeling of comfort or anticipation at trying something different. For award-winning chef Angelo Musa, the person behind Bonbon Café Angelo Musa and The Gallery at The Lana, Dorchester Collection Hotel, the crafting of a menu begins by identifying 'an emotion, a memory, or a specific ingredient'.
'Then comes the technical work: balancing textures, flavours, and aesthetics. I always think about how each dessert will be experienced, from the first bite to the last, ensuring harmony and a sense of surprise,' he tells City Times.
It is this homage to details, to the way something 'should be' experienced, that feeds some of Musa's success. It requires precision, he admits, to create a pastry but it also requires creativity to tease out the notes that may be buried before heat and technique are added to the mix. 'Passion and curiosity have always been my driving forces,' claims the chef named World Pastry Champion in 2003 and Best Craftsman of France, baking category, 2007.
Musa's journey to the crinkle of crust began much after he went to hospitality school in Metz, in north-east France. It was a love that he discovered when he was in a motorcycle accident and had to defer his exams. Fortunately, this also gave him the time to undertake an internship in pastry. He recalls the dessert that changed his life. 'I remember the 'Tarte au fromage blanc' from my mentor, Claude Bourguignon. The first time I tasted it during my apprenticeship, it changed my entire perspective on what makes great pastry. It was simple but executed to perfection, and that moment defined how I approach my craft,' he says.
The focus on detail also led Musa to be named Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters, in a nod to his contribution to the profession in France and abroad. He was also the winner of the Coupe de France and the captain of the French team for the World Pastry Cup where he created the winning dessert.
The treat, known as Papilio, or a family of butterflies, sees the delicate wings of a butterfly adorning a smooth chocolate mousse.
He has also opened a number of restaurants over the years including one at Harrods in London. When he decided to take on two projects at Dubai's The Lana, he saw an opportunity to try two contrasting experiences. 'Bonbon Café is about indulgence in its purest form, offering refined yet approachable treats that guests can enjoy at any time of the day. The Gallery, on the other hand, is where elegance meets artistry, with meticulously designed plated desserts that celebrate craftsmanship and storytelling,' he explains.
The approaches allow him to experiment – to dive deep into the traditions of French pastry making and then redefine them, to 'respect the fundamentals while exploring new flavours, textures, and techniques. For example, I might introduce Middle Eastern spices, floral notes, or unexpected pairings'.
It's an approach that works well for the Dubai crowd, made up of palates from around the world. 'Dubai's culinary scene is incredibly dynamic, a melting pot of cultures and influences. The level of ambition and creativity here is inspiring, and the clientele is adventurous, open to new experiences. This allows for a lot of freedom in developing unique creations,' he explains.
As long as the spirit of experimentation is tempered by discipline, there's no stopping creativity. 'I stay curious, taste a lot, and take inspiration from outside the kitchen: architecture, art, nature. Sometimes, a simple walk can spark an idea,' says Musa.
What makes a good bite?
In the pastry crafting business, one of the most important things to remember is texture. 'Texture is everything. A great dessert isn't just about flavour but contrast: crispy, creamy, airy, chewy. Each element has to complement the others while creating a dynamic tasting experience,' he explains.
It all begins with the base. Which is why, he suggests home bakers focus on that one pastry that can be the foundation for other treats. 'The art of making a proper pâte à choux is something all home bakers should master. It's a gateway to so many classic pastries, from éclairs to Paris-Brest, and mastering it gives you an incredible foundation,' he explains.
As important as it is to know the classics, it's just as necessary to introduce yourself to the trends. Ones that excite Musa centre on getting the essence of the ingredients right. 'There's a return to natural, bold flavours with less sugar, focusing on the essence of ingredients,' he says, adding, 'there's a growing appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship over overly complex, over-designed desserts'.
Which makes us wonder, what would a Dubai-defining pastry look like, taste like? 'It would be a fusion of cultures, a dessert that blends French technique with Middle Eastern flavours, like a mille-feuille infused with date caramel and saffron cream,' he says.
Sounds decadent? So is everything else you'll find on your plate when Musa is cooking. 'Luxury isn't just about rarity; it's about the journey behind a creation: the care, the expertise, and the ability to evoke emotion with every bite,' he stresses.
Crafting something that leaves a delicious aftertaste is a learned behaviour, and in line with this, Musa calls for chefs-to-be to be resilient. 'Be patient, stay curious, and never settle. Learn from every experience, seek mentorship, and remember that passion and dedication will take you further than talent alone,' he says.