Kuppadam sarees: a woven tale of innovation, elegance and tradition
What's in a name?
Kuppadam saree gets its name from a complex weaving technique called Koopadam. Inspired by a need to design temple sarees with elaborate zari borders resembling temple architecture, weavers of this region began interlocking silk borders with cotton or silk over 150 years ago. It was a radical departure from the regular border stitching, which required an assistant weaver. This sets Kuppadam saree from Kanjeevarams other traditional saree designs.
Every thread spun in these six-yard wonders speaks of a deep-rooted cultural legacy handed down generations, held together by the dexterous hands of weavers who blend art and heritage on every warp and weft.
Sajja Ramakrishna, who has been weaving the sarees for the past three decades at Desaipeta village near Chirala, says this unique technique required a distinctive set of skills passed down orally from one generation to the next. Stretching a half-woven saree across a loom at his residence, Ramakrishna says there was a time when he thought his loom would go silent but is now happy that the public have once again begun to appreciate these exquisitely designed sarees.
Ramakrishna added that the looms used in Chirala, a portmanteau word derived from 'chira' meaning saree and 'ala' meaning wave, are mostly pit looms. Handloom fabrics made in Chirala are famous for softness and durability and suite all climates. Chirala looms mostly manufacture cotton and pure silk sarees with half fine zari, with jacquard weave and dress materials. The saree measures 1.19 m by 6.50 m.
What sets them apart
Unlike regular sarees where the border and body are woven in continuity, Kuppadam sarees employs a three-shuttle technique wherein the border and the body are woven separately and then interlocked manually at every line—a painstaking, time-consuming process requiring extreme precision, explained B. Rambabu, a master weaver who gives material to workers and procures the finished product to sell in the market or supply to retailers.
At the heart of the Kuppadam saree is a remarkable blend of cotton or silk body and silk zari border, making it ideal for festive occasions as well as regular wear in the sultry climate of coastal Andhra. The body is typically woven in vibrant colours of pink, maroon, green and blue, with motifs inspired by nature, folklore and temple murals. The hallmark of these sarees is their rich pallu (end piece) and distinctive gold or silver zari borders that reflect grandeur without the weight of full-silk sarees.
This lightweight appeal, coupled with their affordability compared to pure silk sarees, has made them a staple in Andhra households, especially during ceremonies such as engagements, housewarmings and festivals like Sankranti and Ugadi.
Revival from extinction
By early 2000s, demand for Kuppadam sarees had dwindled due to the rise of power looms and cheaper synthetic imitations. The painstaking weaving was no match for the speed and economics of machine-made sarees. As younger generations moved away from the handloom profession, the community of Kuppadam weavers began to shrink.
But just then, a resurgence began. Quietly but firmly, initiatives such as the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry gave weavers their much-needed support. The State government has designated them as the ODOP for Bapatla district this year, giving weavers a fresh breath of life and recognition. The announcement was made by Babpatla District Collector J. Venkata Murali.
Siddi Venkata Buchheswara Rao, a merchant at Devangapuri near Chirala, said women entrepreneurs and designer collectives were now showcasing contemporary versions of Kuppadam sarees, merging tradition with innovation.
Evolving cultural significance
In Andhra culture, gifting a Kuppadam saree to a bride or a daughter-in-law is seen as a gesture of elegance and familial pride. The saree becomes more than an outfit, it transforms into a repository of memory, worn during milestone moments such as baby showers, temple visits or the first festival after marriage.
Moreover, the revival of this saree has had a significant socio-economic impact. According to government data, hundreds of weaving families have resumed their looms in Chirala and neighboring villages. The weaving process, often a family endeavour, involves men operating the looms while women help in dyeing, stretching the yarn, and post-weave embellishments.
Today, one can find Kuppadam sarees infused with modern aesthetics — digital motifs, contemporary pastel shades, minimalistic borders — all the while retaining the essential koopadam craftsmanship. Designers are working closely with weavers to co-create limited edition sarees that appeal to urban consumers and global markets.
Efforts are also under way to secure Geographical Indication (GI) status for the saree, which would offer legal protection and further marketing advantage, says D. Venkateswara Rao, District Handlooms and Textiles Officer, Bapatla district. If secured, it will help preserve the weaving technique and shield artisans from exploitative imitation, he adds.
In the whirl of fast fashion and digital consumption, the Kuppadam saree remains a slow and intentional art form. Every saree takes days to complete, and is a reflection of patience, skill and a deep sense of pride in heritage. As the saree goes from looms of Chirala to the closets of customers, it does more than wrap a body—it wraps generations of memory, craft and culture. And in doing so, it ensures that Andhra Pradesh's threads of legacy never truly unravel.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
The Hindu
25-07-2025
- The Hindu
Neglect of the elderly, a growing social malady in A.P.
Eighty-two-year-old Padmasree stood motionless with anguish cutting into every line of her face, her hollow eyes barely registering the words being read aloud by the presiding officer of the Maintenance Tribunal at Vijayawada Sub-Collector's office. There, aged couples sat close together, some leaning on canes, others on each other. Most avoided eye contact, not with officials, but with the younger faces in that room, some of whom were their own children. The uneasy silence in the room was broken only by an occasional murmur or the rustling of paper. A resident of an upmarket area in Vijayawada, Padmasree has two sons and a daughter. After her husband's death, she sold some of her property and distributed the money equally among her three children. Trusting that her elder son would take care of her, she executed a gift deed in his favour for the remaining property. But his family allegedly neglected and harassed her and sent her to an old-age home. She is now being taken care of by her daughter and son-in-law. In her complaint, Padmasree sought the cancellation of the gift deed. Following an inquiry into the matter, the Tribunal found her claims to be true and ordered the cancellation of the gift deed. The Chairperson also ordered the two sons to pay their mother a monthly maintenance allowance of ₹10,000. On paper, justice was served; she had won. But there was no triumph in Padmasree's heart, as she looked at the person standing in front of her, the child she had raised and loved. Padmasree, however, is not alone in her agony. Cases of elderly parents seeking legal remedy to get their children take care of them are rising, and the many aged couples thronging the Tribunal office reflect this festering societal malady. Among those waiting at the office was Ramakrishna, who kept pacing in and out of the room, as if trying to escape his own thoughts. 'At 78, this was thrust upon me. Every visit to this place reminds us of the painful truth that we have been forced to drag our most private wounds into public view, not for retribution, but for survival,' he said, looking at his wife quickly wiping her tears. 'Every visit to this place reminds us of the painful truth that we have been forced to drag our most private wounds into public view, not for retribution, but for survival.'RamakrishnaAn elderly parent visiting the Maintenance Tribunal in Vijayawada The elderly couple from Durgapuram has two daughters and a son. After their daughters' weddings, they executed a gift deed transferring their house property in the name of their son, who built a house on that land with a bank loan. He gave his parents a small room in that house to live in but, according to the parents, subjected them to daily harassment and humiliation. This forced them to knock the door of the Tribunal. The Tribunal Chairperson, Revenue Divisional Officer (RDO-Vijayawada) Kavuri Chaitanya, said that since the gift deed was under a bank loan, there was some difficulty in cancelling it outright. 'So we issued orders to evict the son and directed that the parents be allowed to live peacefully in the house and receive rent from tenants,' he said. After examining an FIR registered on the complaint by the parents against the son and a video footage purportedly showing the physical mistreatment they endured at the hands of their son, the Tribunal also made the son execute a bond for ₹2 lakh, promising good behaviour in the future. Moreover, the Tribunal directed the authorities to ensure that the bond is enforced. A law just in time The law that came to the rescue of both these elderly individuals is the Maintenance and Welfare of Parents and Senior Citizens (MWPSC) Act. Introduced in December 2007, it aims to address the growing instances of abandonment, neglect and abuse faced by elderly parents at the hands of their family members. It makes it a legal obligation for the children and heirs to care for their elderly family members and provides mechanisms for maintenance, protection of property and safety of parents and senior citizens. Under this law, States have constituted Maintenance Tribunals at sub-divisional level and appointed sub-divisional officers as Chairpersons or Presiding Officers, who hear complaints filed by senior citizens or parents against their children or relatives who have neglected or abandoned them, order monthly maintenance and, in some cases, even order eviction from property if abuse or harassment is proven. At the district-level, Appellate Tribunals have been formed, which are headed by the District Magistrates and they hear appeals against the decisions of the Maintenance Tribunals. The Andhra Pradesh government has constituted Maintenance Tribunals in all its 77 sub-divisions under RDOs/Sub-Collectors, and Appellate Tribunals in all 26 districts under District Collectors. Tepid compliance Notwithstanding the legal recourse, non-compliance of the Tribunal orders remains a major challenge. 'Even after the government invokes the provisions under Section 11 of the Act, payment of maintenance is often significantly delayed. As a result, the complainants face serious financial problems and are at times, unable to secure basic necessities such as food and medicines,' says Mothukuri Venkateswara Rao, a member of the Maintenance Tribunal, Vijayawada Revenue Division. 'Even after the government invokes the provisions under Section 11 of the Act, payment of maintenance is often significantly delayed. As a result, the complainants face serious financial problems and are at times, unable to secure basic necessities such as food and medicines.'Mothukuri Venkateswara RaoMember of Maintenance Tribunal, Vijayawada He says that in some cases, the children move the High Court, seeking a ruling against the payment of the maintenance and dragging their parents into lengthy legal battles. Responding to the concern over non-compliance of the Tribunal orders raised by Rao at the Krishna District Committee of Senior Citizens in October last year, the District Collector asked RDOs to open separate bank accounts for senior citizens in the name of the RDO concerned and direct the respondents showing reluctance or evading payment of maintenance, to pay their parents through this account. 'This is done to bring in accountability on the part of the respondents,' says Chaitanya. Greying demography It is critical for Andhra Pradesh to ensure care and dignified living for the elderly, especially in view of the data available on 'Population Projections for India and States 2011-2036' with the Union Ministry of Health and Family Welfare. It says that A.P. is expected to witness an increase in the proportion of senior citizens compared to the national average (19% for Andhra Pradesh vs 15% for India in 2036). In 2023, the share of people aged 60 and above in the population of Andhra Pradesh stood at 16%, higher than the national average of 11%. This number is expected to rise to 23% in the State, against the national share of 18% by 2047. Also, Andhra Pradesh would rank 4th in the proportion of senior citizens in 2036, having about one senior citizen for every five persons. As for old-age dependency ratio, it would increase from 15.7% in 2011 to 28.9% by 2036 in the State, with more elderly women than elderly men, says the report. 'The Maintenance Tribunals have so far received 2,610 claims, of which 2,221 have been disposed of, 151 settled through Conciliation Officers, 179 have been rejected, 1,907 awarded by the tribunals and 389 are pending,' says A. Surya Kumari, Principal Secretary, Department of Women, Children, Disabled and Senior Citizens Welfare. She adds that the Appellate Tribunals received 111 claims, of which 93 have been disposed of and 18 are pending. Meanwhile, the department has initiated several measures to ensure smooth legal navigation for the elderly in the State. 'We realise that abuse or harassment by one's own children cuts differently. It's a heartbreak that often comes with shame, guilt and isolation. So we deal with them sensitively,' says Surya Kumari. 'We realise that abuse or harassment by one's own children cuts differently. It's a heartbreak that often comes with shame, guilt and isolation. So we deal with them sensitively.'A. Surya KumariPrincipal Secretary, Department of Women, Children, Disabled and Senior Citizens Welfare Efforts are on to scale up awareness on the Act through hoardings installed in Collectorates across the State, street plays and pamphlet distribution. 'The elderly are being educated about the legislation. We advise them to include a clause in the gift deed stating that the gift is being made with the expectation that the recipient will take care of their welfare during their lifetime,' says Surya Kumari. She said 38,89,793 elderly receive social security pensions in the State, and 31,27,923 of them are senior citizens (above 60 years). For transportation, a 25% concession is granted to them on all types of buses run by the State Road Transport Corporation. These buses have semi-low floors and three seats on each are reserved for senior citizens. This is in addition to free distribution of wheelchairs, hearing aids, adult walking sticks and spectacles supplied to those in need of them. A health benefit card, 'Ayushman Vaya Vandana Card', a Central initiative, has been launched under the Ayushman Bharat Pradhan Mantri Jan Arogya Yojana (AB PM-JAY) scheme. The scheme offers people who are older than 70 years health benefits up to ₹5 lakh a year, regardless of the financial status of the person. The coalition government in the State intends to implement the scheme in alignment with the existing 3,257 medical procedures covered under the Dr. NTR Vaidya Seva scheme. 'Geriatric care is one of the focus areas as the estimated number of senior citizens above 70 years in Andhra Pradesh is 25,94,554 from 19,43,486 families,' says Surya Kumari, adding that physiotherapy units have been established at 13 district hospitals, 54 area hospitals and 175 Community Health Centres. Apart from the dedicated geriatric wards in district and government general hospitals, home-based care is made available to bedridden elderly patients under 'Family Physician' concept and cashless treatment in government and private hospitals up to ₹25 lakhs per family per year is made available under NTR Vaidya Seva initiative to BPL candidates. To build a caregiver community through training programmes, the government has collaborated with Heritage Foundation, a Hyderabad-based organisation working to make ageing a vibrant journey for an empowered living. Designated by the Ministry of Social Justice and Empowerment, Government of India, as a Resource and Training Centre (RRTC), the foundation members work in 12 districts of Andhra Pradesh. 'We oversee facilities in the State and organise comprehensive training programmes for care-givers, administrators and healthcare professionals on geriatric care, dementia management and capacity-building workshops for senior citizens' organisations,' says project coordinator of the foundation T. Ravi. He says the idea is to prepare the next generation of professionals to tackle the challenges of elderly care to ensure that the elderly spend their final years in peace and dignity. (Names of the plaintiffs have been changed)
Hans India
22-07-2025
- Hans India
Banarasi, Kanjivaram, Chanderi: How to Tell These Iconic Indian Weaves Apart
India's weaving traditions are a living tapestry of history, culture, and unmatched artistry. Among the most revered are Banarasi, Kanjivaram, and Chanderi — each celebrated for its distinct look, feel, and heritage. Yet, telling them apart isn't always easy for the untrained eye. With some insight into their origin, motifs, and textures, it becomes easier to appreciate the craftsmanship that defines each of these timeless silks. Here's a quick guide to help you identify the key characteristics of these iconic weaves: Banarasi: Royal Opulence from Varanasi Banarasi silk sarees are synonymous with grandeur. Originating in Varanasi (Banaras), these weaves are known for their heavy gold and silver zari work, often featuring Mughal-inspired patterns like florals, vines, and intricate jhallars (lace-like edges). Their shimmering finish and elaborate detailing make them a popular choice for bridal trousseaus and festive occasions. The fabric tends to be structured and slightly stiff, thanks to its densely woven base and ornate embellishments. Some high-end Banarasi sarees even include pure silver threads, showcasing the painstaking skill of artisans who uphold this centuries-old legacy. Kanjivaram: The Regal Drape from South India Kanjivaram sarees, also called Kanjeevarams, hail from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu — a region steeped in temple architecture and classical traditions. These sarees are distinct for their unique weaving technique, where the body and border are woven separately and then intricately joined together. Known for their bold motifs like peacocks, elephants, and temple gopurams (domes), Kanjivarams are woven from thick mulberry silk, giving them a rich texture and lustrous sheen. The sarees are both durable and majestic, making them treasured heirlooms in South Indian households. Chanderi: Subtle Elegance from Madhya Pradesh In contrast to the opulence of Banarasi and Kanjivaram, Chanderi sarees are the epitome of lightness and grace. Woven in the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, these sarees are prized for their sheer texture, soft glow, and feather-light weight — perfect for summer wear and minimalist occasions. Their beauty lies in simplicity. Chanderi weaves typically feature small, handwoven motifs like butis (tiny dots), florals, and geometric shapes. The fabric is usually a mix of silk and cotton or pure silk, offering breathability along with elegance.
Time of India
19-07-2025
- Time of India
Chennai Seniors Combat Loneliness with Community Activities
Since retiring, N Ramakrishna has turned RK Nagar Park into more than just his morning walk route. It's now his stand-up stage. Every Saturday, notebook in hand, the 83-year-old performs for a small group of seniors, cracking jokes about everything from joint pain to politics. 'My jokes are mostly anecdotal, talking about imaginary awkward situations I've been in. I look forward to the open mic all week,' he says, adding that he now looks for a punchline in everything from doctor visits to daily errands. While a recent HelpAge India report says that nearly 50% of elders, especially those above 80 and living alone, cite loneliness as the most common negative feeling associated with ageing, a growing number of seniors in the city, such as Ramakrishna, are refusing to let isolation define their later years, choosing instead to build their own little communities around shared interests. From board games in community halls to pottery studio sessions, they're making every effort to stay socially and emotionally connected. RK Nagar Park association regularly hosts music sessions, TED-style talks, knowledge-sharing sessions, and informal debates, besides open mic programmes. They also facilitate an alternative community living setup by running daycares that serve as hangout joints for seniors. You Can Also Check: Chennai AQI | Weather in Chennai | Bank Holidays in Chennai | Public Holidays in Chennai The Dignity Foundation, an organisation that works for the welfare and care of the elderly, says more elders are signing up for Tai Chi, basket weaving, carrom and pallanguzhi. 'I sign up so I can interact with people my age. Every evening, I go home looking forward to the next day's meet up,' says Sivagami V, a 74-year-old resident of Beach Road who leaves home at 7.30am as part of the foundation's day care programme. 'I live alone, and the loneliness can be overpowering at times. But here there's someone to ask me how I am doing, and I'm grateful.' 'We promote intergenerational events as well, like we recently held a fashion show where seniors walked the ramp wearing designs put together by youngsters from the National Institute of Fashion Technology,' says Merita Joseph, chapter head of the Dignity Foundation in Chennai. 'It was exciting,' says Nirmala Krishnaswamy, one of the models. 'Walking along with my husband on the ramp was such a special moment.' Merita says that when The Dignity Foundation was established 27 years ago, it had a magazine by seniors for seniors, where it was mostly health and wellness that was discussed. 'Over the years, it has become more about creating spaces for seniors to meet each other and hang out because we realised that was what they needed more, a sense of belonging,' she says. Today, the Foundation's programmes have also been extended to underprivileged communities, free of cost. Gated communities are also going the extra mile by creating exclusive seniors' clubs. Alliance Galleria Residences in Pallavaram has more than 500 members in its seniors' club, where elders celebrate observance days and go on trips together. 'My daughter lives overseas, and I live alone here,' says Usha Raghothaman, a resident. 'Initially, I felt cooped up as I had no friends to meet and didn't have anyone who could take me outside. Since I've joined the club, I have been to Yelagiri to celebrate Valentine's Day, Kanjeevaram on temple tours, and visits to beaches in the city. This group has become an extended family for me,' says the 76-year-old. NUMBERS TALK: 1. 73% of elders believe technology can help them connect with youth, but only 13% use digital tools like social media, email, or video calling 2. 87% of youth and 84% of elders said discussing personal matters is their main mode of connection Source: HelpAge India INBO Report 2025
