This Forgotten Agra Inn Witnessed A Bloody Battle That Changed The Course Of Mughal History
On the banks of the Yamuna near Agra lies Sarai Jajau, a forgotten Mughal-era inn that once bore witness to a bloody power struggle following Emperor Aurangzeb's death. On June 20, 1707, it became the battleground for a decisive clash between his sons, shaping the course of the empire's future.
Aurangzeb, who had not named a successor, left a will instructing his sons to divide the empire among themselves. However, the ensuing struggle for power led to a violent battle of succession between Muhammad Azam Shah and Muazzam, who later became known as Bahadur Shah I.
The battle of Jajau, which is historically significant, resulted in the death of Azam Shah and his three sons. Despite the conflict, Muazzam was crowned on June 19, 1707, a day before the battle, and subsequently took over the throne as Bahadur Shah I. Today, Sarai Jajau remains one of the rare inns in India where people continue to live, preserving its rich history.
Sarai Jajau features two grand gates, a mosque with three domes, and a reservoir, which are still in use by the local community. The battle for succession to the Mughal throne was fought at Jajau, which, though an unfamiliar name to many, served as the stage for one of the most decisive confrontations in the empire's history.
According to a report by Firstpost, there is no trace today of the major battle that once took place in Jajau. This historical site, located about 30 kilometres from Agra on the highway to Gwalior, may not bear visible signs of the war, but it retains its medieval heritage.
Although the highway to Gwalior may appear to be relatively new, it is actually a successor to the old road network that once connected various parts of the Mughal Empire. A remnant of that medieval highway still defines Jajau in 2025. During the Mughal era, caravanserais were built along these routes, rest stops where weary traders and their pack animals could pause, refresh themselves, and continue their journey.
Caravanserai Of Its Time
Built like a small fort and guarded by a garrison, it offered both security and a measure of comfort to weary travellers. One such caravanserai still stands in Jajau, and surprisingly, the structure has largely survived the test of time.
Located near the Utangan River, the Jajau serai is constructed in the traditional style of its kind: square in layout, with entrances on the north and south sides. It is enclosed by high fortified walls and features rooms for travellers to rest. On the western side of the complex stands a mosque, elevated on a high platform, where devotees could pause to offer prayers.
Now Home To Dozens Of Families
Despite its historical significance, the inn is in a state of disrepair. Only the entrance and a small mosque remain intact, while the rest of the space is now a residential area for dozens of families, mostly farmers. From the inside, the place resembles any typical village in the region, with agricultural equipment beside most homes and cattle tied nearby. Like other caravanserais of its time, Jajau Sarai had rooms in its inner section to accommodate travellers.
Originally, the inn had about 30 rooms for travellers, but these have been incorporated into the structures of the current homes, some of which have multiple floors.
The Inn Built During Aurangzeb's Reign
The inn was constructed during the rule of Emperor Aurangzeb. Today, the original cells have been absorbed into the structures of the houses within the inn, some even extended to multiple floors. Most residents claim their families have lived here for generations.
An Arabic inscription on a marble slab dates the inn to 1674 AD, during Aurangzeb's rule. Over the years, especially following Aurangzeb's death, the rural community moved into the inn seeking protection within its walls. Its proximity to Agra likely contributed to its survival through the late 18th century. By the 19th century, as the Mughal rule faded, more people settled in the inn.
A Hidden Stepwell In Red Sandstone Lies Nearby
Nearby, a three-storey medieval stepwell, built from red sandstone, now lies in a state of neglect. Once a vital structure, it is currently used by local farmers as a storage space. Nearby stands an old Mughal bridge, another forgotten relic of the past. In its time, the bridge was an integral part of the Mughal highway network, allowing travellers to cross the Utangan River. Today, it must be searched for among the overgrowth and debris. A British traveller once described it as a grand structure with 20 stone arches, while another noted the presence of two minarets at either end.
The heritage of Jajau is slowly crumbling under the weight of apathy. Though the caravanserai is officially listed as a protected monument, its survival depends on serious, sustained efforts to preserve it for future generations.
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