Prada admits Kolhapuri chappals inspired footwear collection after backlash

Business Standard

18 hours ago

Days after featuring footwear inspired by Kolhapuri chappals in its Milan show, luxury brand Prada has acknowledged its source of inspiration. The brand has admitted that footwear showcased in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line was inspired by India's traditional Kolhapuri chappals.
'Kolhapuri chappals inspiration for footwear featured in our Milan show,' the Italian luxury label said, according to a report by the Press Trust of India.
The admission comes amid growing backlash in India, where both officials and artisans accused Prada of cultural appropriation and overlooking the heritage behind the handmade leather sandals. The footwear, presented at Milan Fashion Week, closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals — traditional open-toe leather sandals made for generations by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Prada responds to online backlash
In a letter addressed to Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group's Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, wrote: 'We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship.'
Earlier this week, BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. The delegation submitted a letter calling for steps to protect the product's Geographical Indication (GI) rights and ensure the cultural significance of the footwear is upheld.
'Designs not finalised for production'
In his reply, the brand also clarified that the designs are still under development: 'Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised.'
The brand added: 'We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities.'
Meanwhile, Bertelli also expressed interest in further talks: 'We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow-up with the relevant Prada teams.'
Prada commits to heritage recognition
Bertelli closed his letter by stating: 'Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage.'
He reaffirmed the brand's willingness to engage further: 'We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow-up with the relevant Prada teams.'
Previously, on June 23, MACCIA had written to Prada after the Milan show, criticising the brand for showcasing sandals labelled only as 'leather sandals' with no reference to their Indian origins. It stated: 'It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear), a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.'
Symbol of cultural identity
In his letter, Lalit Gandhi highlighted the cultural and economic significance of Kolhapuri chappals: 'Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts.'
Gandhi also urged Prada to acknowledge its source of inspiration and explore ways to support the artisans: 'While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialised without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations.'
He added: 'We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights.'