
Rising tourism sparks environmental concerns in Croatia
But the environmental impact of tourism on the nearly 6,000km coastline and marine life is troubling experts – and prompting calls for action.
Sakarun beach on Dugi Otok island is often called 'Croatia's Caribbean'. Tourist boats drop anchor in the turquoise waters of the bay and head for its white sands.
Some visitors complained, however, about unsightly swathes of Posidonia or dark Mediterranean seagrass on the shore, which led to its removal.
The heavy machinery involved also removed sediment, resulting in the gradual disappearance of the sandy beach over the last decade.
Croatia only has only a small number of sandy and pebble beaches, while the rest are rocky.
Pikelj says that it is important to the environment as well as to the community to protect 'the sand that we have'.
'We don't have many sandy beaches so it's important that the sand we have is protected,' said geologist Kristina Pikelj, from Zagreb University Faculty of Science.
In 2021, she launched a project to monitor Sakarun, and to educate locals and tourists about the vital role played by the so-called 'lungs of the sea'.
Posidonia – a key store of carbon and producer of oxygen – is critical to slowing the effects of climate change, as well as being vital for marine habitats and providing an erosion buffer for the beaches.
For the past three years Posidonia, which was once used as a vineyard fertiliser, has been left on the beach, spread apart in piles.
'We understand the tourist aspect, to show them the sand, this bay is beautiful and people really enjoy it,' said Pikelj.
Marija Meklav, one of three people participating in the fieldwork at Sakarun, added: 'We are trying to raise public awareness and achieve something directly through field and laboratory work.
'Our generation can achieve something in this regard,' the 24-year-old student said.
Artificial beaches
With tourist numbers growing, local authorities have been expanding beach capacity for tourists in search of sun, sea and sand.
At some locations so-called beach nourishment – adding sediment to repair natural erosion – has been carried out.
But the technique has also been used to cover natural rocky parts with gravel or even concrete. During winter, the sea carries it away, meaning the costly process has to be repeated every season
Dalibor Carevic, from Zagreb University Faculty of Civil Engineering said in places like Primosten, often called 'the town of beaches' on the central coast north of Split, the practice has gone too far.
Experts repeatedly warned against the removal of hundreds of metres of rocks along one of its central beaches.
The rocks were ground and mixed with quarry stones to make an artificial pebble beach that opened in 2011, with the process repeated every year.
In less than a decade the coastline at the Mala Raduca beach has shifted by some 20m towards the sea, satellite pictures show.
Municipalities have created artificial beaches like Primosten to accommodate the growing number of tourists.
Primosten's veteran mayor Stipe Petrina, though, said beach nourishment was essential for a town dependent entirely on tourism.
'One cannot have a capacity for 15,000 people and beaches for 2,000,' he said, comparing it with a ski resort that hosts thousands of skiers but only offers a few hundred metres of slopes.
When tourism started to take off in the 1960s, locals ground rocks to make access to the sea easier.
'Once there were vineyards here that could have remained but we would have all emigrated. The question is what is better,' said Petrina.
'In another Primosten bay there are rocks but I cannot see many tourists there,' Petrina said.
The town of 2,800 people hosted nearly 90,000 tourists last year, mostly between July and August.
In early May, German tourist Karin Hoggermann watched trucks bringing new gravel to prepare the beach for the season.
'For swimming and going in the sea, for kids, it's better that they repair the beach. Tourists would not come if they would not do that,' she said.
Conquest of the sea
Unlike in Italy, Spain, the Netherlands or France, which also use beach nourishment, few rivers flow into the Adriatic Sea off Croatia, making its ecosystem more vulnerable as it is less accustomed to additional sediment input.
Excessive construction even in protected marine areas, concreting, non-compliance with regulations and huge fleets of charter boats also take their toll.
The number of car parks, marinas, ports and roads are also growing.
One long-term solution is to raise awareness among locals and authorities as well as education, experts said, urging consultation for more sustainable solutions.
'That conquest of the sea is not good and should be discouraged,' said Carevic. – AFP
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In one possible knock-on effect, Ibiza is seeing a growing shortage of teachers and health workers, according to regional government data. Some public servants commute from neighbouring Balearic islands Menorca and Mallorca. Maria Jose Tejero, a 24-year-old emergency medical technician, said she shares a small flat with two housemates to make ends meet because the rent is twice her salary. Crewing an ambulance at night sometimes makes her feel "like a babysitter", Tejero said. "People come here, drink, take drugs and think life's just a party when that life can also end." Deflated balloons litter a bar-lined street in popular tourist town Sant Antoni. Dealers discreetly inflate the balloons with nitrous oxide - laughing gas - selling the brief high for 5 euros a pop. Lia Romero, a 28-year-old nurse from Spain's Canary Islands who sometimes moonlights as a dancer at Ibiza's club Amnesia, said she also shares a flat and can't afford bar cover charges or dining out. 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Alejandra said she had a new hotel job and wanted to move out of the shelter, but worried about losing work "for being slow" as she raced to log the Social Security contributions required to renew her permit. Social workers Gustavo Gomez and Belen Torres, who run the Caritas shelter, said landlords routinely discriminate against families with children and evict tenants to replace them with tourists during the more lucrative summer months. Local authorities are cracking down on illegal tourist rentals, imposing fines that start at 40,001 euros on those who post them. Vacation rental companies have agreed to automatically withdraw advertisements officials deem illegal instead of waiting for a slower judicial ruling, said Ibiza Council Vice-President Mariano Juan of the conservative People's Party, which governs the wider Balearic region. In Juan's view, high demand and limited buildable land result in "absolutely illogical" rent prices on Ibiza. At a national level, the centre-left government has pledged to triple the state housing budget and speed construction of social housing. But a 2023 law that introduced some rent controls has seen limited success, as many opposition-controlled regions decline to apply the rules given they have a high level of autonomy in housing policy. National landlord lobby ASVAL rejects rent controls, arguing they shrink supply and raise prices. It says the best ways to bring down rents are public incentives and more construction. Saray Benito, 32, said work as a contortionist and torch juggler at the famous Cafe del Mar is scarce in winter. Over 12 years in Ibiza, she said she has had to move 20 times and sometimes sleep on balconies. Italian drag performer Eva Cavallini, who is famous in the LGBTQ-friendly La Virgen district near Ibiza Town's port, lamented that soaring travel and accommodation costs dissuade other artists from visiting. "Ten years ago, we were around 200. Now it's just me - the only survivor here. If things keep going this way, the island is finished." ($1 = 0.8542 euros) (Additional reporting by Horaci GarciaWriting by David LatonaEditing by Frances Kerry)