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Kazutaka Ozawa: ‘The best wine is the one that brings you joy'

Kazutaka Ozawa: ‘The best wine is the one that brings you joy'

Japan Times14 hours ago

The first time Kazutaka Ozawa tasted Champagne, he was just a child. Sitting in a French restaurant surrounded by family and laughter, he was drawn to the aroma from the glass: delicate, floral and something close to magic.
It would take years before he entered the world of wine professionally, but that early memory left an imprint. Wine had become a synecdoche for great memories — time spent with loved ones over great food.
Now, more than two decades into his career, Ozawa is one of Japan's most respected sommeliers. At Tokyo's two-Michelin-starred Crony, the modern French restaurant he co-owns with chef Michihiro Haruta, his thoughtful, intuitive pairings form the backbone of the dining experience. For his stellar work, he was recognized as Asia's Best Sommelier at this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards.
Following up on his win, Ozawa spoke to The Japan Times about his favorite sips, the future of Japanese wine and Tokyo's wine trends.
Ozawa was recognized as Asia's Best Sommelier at this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards. |
ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS
How did you first become interested in wine?
I didn't plan to become a sommelier. In high school, I started working at a French restaurant in Tokyo called Apicius. It was known for top-tier service, and the sommeliers there were always studying and tasting wine.
But back then, many sommeliers spoke in a way that felt very technical, using jargon that went over my head. I connected more with the service staff who created a great atmosphere for guests. Eventually, I joined the Four Seasons Hotel Marunouchi in 2002, where I started handling wine, and that's where it all really began.
You then went to work at Kenzo Estate in Napa Valley in 2005. What did that experience teach you?
That wine is an agricultural product, a living thing. When I joined, I thought I'd just be helping export wine to Japan, but they encouraged me to be involved in everything, from viticulture to vinification. It was the first time I saw how physically demanding and emotional the work is. It completely changed the way I see wine.
A whole year goes into growing grapes, and it's mostly done by hand. I used to judge wine by vintages or scores, but now, even in a so-called (bad vintage) year, I think about how much effort the farmers put in.
What kind of wines are you drawn to?
Since I often eat Japanese food, I tend to gravitate toward complementary wines, in particular Champagne and Burgundy. Champagne has a special place in my heart, not only because of my childhood memory but because its elegance works beautifully with Japanese dishes. I also love red and white Burgundy.
That said, with climate change and rising prices, I've started exploring other regions — Sussex in England for sparkling wine, and pinot noir from Switzerland and Germany, which have become really good in recent years and are still relatively accessible.
What are your thoughts on Japanese wines?
I think people are starting to choose them simply because they taste good. It's not just about supporting local products anymore. The quality has improved so much, and demand has really grown in the past five years, even among consumers abroad. Right now at Crony, we have around 40 Japanese wines on the list. Whenever I have time, I visit local wineries to learn more.
The interior of the two-Michelin-starred Crony has a cozy, Scandinavian vibe. |
CRONY
Do you have any favorite domestic varieties?
Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. For Koshu, I recommend Aruga Branca Isehara from Katsunuma Winery in Yamanashi. It's a beautifully made wine, and I believe it holds up on the world stage. The red Muscat Bailey A is often misunderstood because it can sometimes have an overpowering flavor. But in the hands of the right winemaker, it's fantastic. I especially like what Tsuno Wine in Kyushu is doing with it.
There's also a unique wine from Suntory, Wa no Tsumugi, a blend of Muscat Bailey A and merlot: It balances the light body of Muscat Bailey A with the structure of merlot. What's even more interesting is their version aged in mizunara (Japanese oak) barrels, which are usually used for whisky production. Those barrels are difficult to work with — they can leak if the wood isn't mature — but they add a soft spiciness that's completely unique.
What are some recent trends in Tokyo's wine scene?
There's still a solid group of people who drink the classics — Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux — but younger generations often haven't had the opportunity to taste them as those wines have become very expensive. Instead, a lot of them are discovering natural wine , which has become a big trend over the last decade.
At first, it was all about the label — people would drink natural wine just because it was 'natural' — but now the movement has matured. There's more diversity in the wine and the people drinking them. But at the same time, there's still a lack of understanding of natural wine among many sellers and consumers.
Apart from the natural wine trend, there's also a shift toward less alcohol consumption. How are restaurants adapting?
It's a real issue. Food revenue is fixed — guests pay a set amount for a meal course, so beverage sales are critical for business. When guests don't drink, we feel (the revenue loss). That's why more restaurants are developing nonalcoholic pairings that are as thoughtful as the wine options; I've been experimenting with such pairings myself.
I used to think nonalcoholic drinks weren't all that exciting, but after meeting a tea specialist in Taiwan, I realized how much tea and wine share in terms of complexity and nuance. We've started doing pairings with Japanese teas, such as matching Shizuoka's shincha (tea from the first harvest) with snap peas and clams: The tea, which is cold-brewed, has a sweet-salty taste that complements the minerality of the clams.
We also pair pinot noir juice from Hokkaido's Domaine Takahiko with Ezo venison loin as the juice's clean acidity goes well with the juicy meat. These pairings represent a new challenge but one that's worth pursuing.
Speaking of nonalcoholic options, some sommeliers are creating mocktails with kombucha or fermented ingredients. Do you take that approach?
Mocktails open up a lot of creative options, but I want to make sure that whatever I serve respects the producer's intent. I believe that wine — or tea or juice — should have a story, just like the dish it's paired with. If I start blending (ingredients) too much, I worry that I'll dilute that meaning, so I haven't taken the mocktail route yet.
Do you think traditional wine rules are still relevant, like the idea that red wine doesn't go with fish?
Not really. Those rules are outdated. For example, oysters — everyone says you have to drink them with white wine but, depending on the variety of the mollusk, red or rose wine can be a great match. In southern France, people drink rose with oysters all the time, and in Bordeaux, they even pair them with reds. Some seafood, like caviar or oysters, have a bit of tannin, and pairing them with a light red can really elevate the experience.
In Japan, a lot of people still say, 'Cheese goes with red wine,' but in Switzerland, most people match it with white wine. There's a lot of misinformation out there. But that's changing. Today, more people are studying wine, and younger guests are more open-minded. They're curious, and when we suggest something, they're willing to try it.
Despite what conventional rules tell you, red wine can be paired with oysters, says Ozawa. |
GETTY IMAGES
Any recommended spots in Tokyo for beginners who want to explore wine?
Crony, of course! But if you're into French cuisine, Esquisse in Ginza and Ryuzu in Roppongi are fantastic. Both places have outstanding sommeliers, and the food is great.
What other tips do you have for wine beginners?
A lot of people drink wine with their heads and judge it by its technical details. But I want people to enjoy the act of drinking — to discover what they actually like, not what they're told they should like. In the end, the best wine is the one that brings you joy.

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Kazutaka Ozawa: ‘The best wine is the one that brings you joy'
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Kazutaka Ozawa: ‘The best wine is the one that brings you joy'

The first time Kazutaka Ozawa tasted Champagne, he was just a child. Sitting in a French restaurant surrounded by family and laughter, he was drawn to the aroma from the glass: delicate, floral and something close to magic. It would take years before he entered the world of wine professionally, but that early memory left an imprint. Wine had become a synecdoche for great memories — time spent with loved ones over great food. Now, more than two decades into his career, Ozawa is one of Japan's most respected sommeliers. At Tokyo's two-Michelin-starred Crony, the modern French restaurant he co-owns with chef Michihiro Haruta, his thoughtful, intuitive pairings form the backbone of the dining experience. For his stellar work, he was recognized as Asia's Best Sommelier at this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards. Following up on his win, Ozawa spoke to The Japan Times about his favorite sips, the future of Japanese wine and Tokyo's wine trends. Ozawa was recognized as Asia's Best Sommelier at this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards. | ASIA'S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS How did you first become interested in wine? I didn't plan to become a sommelier. In high school, I started working at a French restaurant in Tokyo called Apicius. It was known for top-tier service, and the sommeliers there were always studying and tasting wine. But back then, many sommeliers spoke in a way that felt very technical, using jargon that went over my head. I connected more with the service staff who created a great atmosphere for guests. Eventually, I joined the Four Seasons Hotel Marunouchi in 2002, where I started handling wine, and that's where it all really began. You then went to work at Kenzo Estate in Napa Valley in 2005. What did that experience teach you? That wine is an agricultural product, a living thing. When I joined, I thought I'd just be helping export wine to Japan, but they encouraged me to be involved in everything, from viticulture to vinification. It was the first time I saw how physically demanding and emotional the work is. It completely changed the way I see wine. A whole year goes into growing grapes, and it's mostly done by hand. I used to judge wine by vintages or scores, but now, even in a so-called (bad vintage) year, I think about how much effort the farmers put in. What kind of wines are you drawn to? Since I often eat Japanese food, I tend to gravitate toward complementary wines, in particular Champagne and Burgundy. Champagne has a special place in my heart, not only because of my childhood memory but because its elegance works beautifully with Japanese dishes. I also love red and white Burgundy. That said, with climate change and rising prices, I've started exploring other regions — Sussex in England for sparkling wine, and pinot noir from Switzerland and Germany, which have become really good in recent years and are still relatively accessible. What are your thoughts on Japanese wines? I think people are starting to choose them simply because they taste good. It's not just about supporting local products anymore. The quality has improved so much, and demand has really grown in the past five years, even among consumers abroad. Right now at Crony, we have around 40 Japanese wines on the list. Whenever I have time, I visit local wineries to learn more. The interior of the two-Michelin-starred Crony has a cozy, Scandinavian vibe. | CRONY Do you have any favorite domestic varieties? Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. For Koshu, I recommend Aruga Branca Isehara from Katsunuma Winery in Yamanashi. It's a beautifully made wine, and I believe it holds up on the world stage. The red Muscat Bailey A is often misunderstood because it can sometimes have an overpowering flavor. But in the hands of the right winemaker, it's fantastic. I especially like what Tsuno Wine in Kyushu is doing with it. There's also a unique wine from Suntory, Wa no Tsumugi, a blend of Muscat Bailey A and merlot: It balances the light body of Muscat Bailey A with the structure of merlot. What's even more interesting is their version aged in mizunara (Japanese oak) barrels, which are usually used for whisky production. Those barrels are difficult to work with — they can leak if the wood isn't mature — but they add a soft spiciness that's completely unique. What are some recent trends in Tokyo's wine scene? There's still a solid group of people who drink the classics — Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux — but younger generations often haven't had the opportunity to taste them as those wines have become very expensive. Instead, a lot of them are discovering natural wine , which has become a big trend over the last decade. At first, it was all about the label — people would drink natural wine just because it was 'natural' — but now the movement has matured. There's more diversity in the wine and the people drinking them. But at the same time, there's still a lack of understanding of natural wine among many sellers and consumers. Apart from the natural wine trend, there's also a shift toward less alcohol consumption. How are restaurants adapting? It's a real issue. Food revenue is fixed — guests pay a set amount for a meal course, so beverage sales are critical for business. When guests don't drink, we feel (the revenue loss). That's why more restaurants are developing nonalcoholic pairings that are as thoughtful as the wine options; I've been experimenting with such pairings myself. I used to think nonalcoholic drinks weren't all that exciting, but after meeting a tea specialist in Taiwan, I realized how much tea and wine share in terms of complexity and nuance. We've started doing pairings with Japanese teas, such as matching Shizuoka's shincha (tea from the first harvest) with snap peas and clams: The tea, which is cold-brewed, has a sweet-salty taste that complements the minerality of the clams. We also pair pinot noir juice from Hokkaido's Domaine Takahiko with Ezo venison loin as the juice's clean acidity goes well with the juicy meat. These pairings represent a new challenge but one that's worth pursuing. Speaking of nonalcoholic options, some sommeliers are creating mocktails with kombucha or fermented ingredients. Do you take that approach? Mocktails open up a lot of creative options, but I want to make sure that whatever I serve respects the producer's intent. I believe that wine — or tea or juice — should have a story, just like the dish it's paired with. If I start blending (ingredients) too much, I worry that I'll dilute that meaning, so I haven't taken the mocktail route yet. Do you think traditional wine rules are still relevant, like the idea that red wine doesn't go with fish? Not really. Those rules are outdated. For example, oysters — everyone says you have to drink them with white wine but, depending on the variety of the mollusk, red or rose wine can be a great match. In southern France, people drink rose with oysters all the time, and in Bordeaux, they even pair them with reds. Some seafood, like caviar or oysters, have a bit of tannin, and pairing them with a light red can really elevate the experience. In Japan, a lot of people still say, 'Cheese goes with red wine,' but in Switzerland, most people match it with white wine. There's a lot of misinformation out there. But that's changing. Today, more people are studying wine, and younger guests are more open-minded. They're curious, and when we suggest something, they're willing to try it. Despite what conventional rules tell you, red wine can be paired with oysters, says Ozawa. | GETTY IMAGES Any recommended spots in Tokyo for beginners who want to explore wine? Crony, of course! But if you're into French cuisine, Esquisse in Ginza and Ryuzu in Roppongi are fantastic. Both places have outstanding sommeliers, and the food is great. What other tips do you have for wine beginners? A lot of people drink wine with their heads and judge it by its technical details. But I want people to enjoy the act of drinking — to discover what they actually like, not what they're told they should like. In the end, the best wine is the one that brings you joy.

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