More than jazz: Secret Northbridge restaurant shares same adventurous spirit as one of the genre's greats
Fittingly, Ah Um – the sophomore venue opened in September by the crew behind Northbridge listening bar Astral Weeks – is another creative work that defies pigeonholing.
The clandestine nature of this austere, dim room – you enter via an unmarked sliding door at the back of Astral Weeks – and its finely honed sound system makes it feel like a private art gallery or illicit rave: if only all those tables and banquettes weren't everywhere! A handsome four-seat counter feels perfect for guests keen to explore a thrilling drinks inventory running from wines and classic cocktails to artisan sakes. Yet, a bar-top for bar flies this ain't.
Instead, here's a place to go when you're hungry. All that furniture might be dancefloor-unfriendly, but diners dig it. They waltz in and out of this cool 25-person den, enthralled by and dressed for a restaurant that feels (and plays music that is) unique and adventurous. Nab a bar stool and enjoy bonus facetime with Ah Um ambassadors such as Jae Woods, Dan Ambrose and Sean O'Neill – restaurant manager, bar guy and co-owner, respectively – plus glimpses of the semi-open kitchen where chef Branden Scott holds court.
For readers familiar with Scott from his Wines of While stints, you'll know that his cooking leans heavily on his black book of farmers and suppliers. At his former workplace, this thinking anchored fluid menus casting pristine ingredients as the protagonists of seasonal salads, fortifying pastas and other, predominantly European pleasures. This time around, Scott's focus has shifted to Japan as well as where its cuisine intersects with wine bar-style small plates.
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