Pin it to win it: The brooch makes a bold comeback

Economic Times

15 hours ago

Synopsis
Brooches are experiencing a significant revival, particularly among men, driven by a desire for individuality and self-expression. This resurgence is fueled by red carpet visibility, vintage culture, and a craving for pieces with personal meaning and history. Designers note increased demand and experimentation in brooch placement, transforming them into versatile accessories and wearable art.
TIL Creatives Representative Image In a July 2025 article in The Financial Times , Frank Everett, Sotheby's vice chair of jewellery, proclaimed that the brooch is back. Everett has been talking about the return of the brooch for a decade now but this time round, he says, it is legit. Even as you remain skeptical, there's one area that the brooch seems to have pinned its hopes on: the men's suits. The Met Gala 2025 was a parade of brooches as attendees pinned the theme 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' with a brooch. Punctuating most of the slick lapels, stylists called it the breakout trend of the night. At the Oscars again, brooches were front and centre.Stylist and image consultant Rishi Raj—a self-confessed brooch addict— says that brooches are having a moment because people are craving individuality, especially men, who are finally embracing adornment in a big way. He says, 'For men, a brooch is the perfect gateway into jewellery. It's less intimidating than wearing a necklace or earrings.' The red carpet visibility has also created acceptability.
International jewellery houses are keen to bring men into the jewellery fold, a reason why we see brooches on the red carpet. But brooches have been around since the Bronze Age when men used pins of flint or metal to fasten cloaks and tunics. By the 19th century, they were worn purely for ornamentation.Fashion historians note that brooches went out of style in the 1960s. Of late, though, editorials are full of 'ten ways to wear a brooch' hacks. Jewellery designer Roma Narsinghani, who founded her eponymous label in 2018, says brooches today are more than just a fashion trend, they're a cultural mood. People want pieces that tell a story and connects them to something bigger, she notes. 'Brooches have been part of so many traditions: royal regalia in Europe, ceremonial pins in Asia, talismans in different cultures. They've always carried meaning, and I think right now, that's what people are craving—objects that feel personal and storied.' Narsinghani also attributes the rise to men wanting to experiment with personal style.
To tackle damaging a garment, she reintroduced button covers, something you used to see back in the 50s. This can also help you double your brooches as buttons. 'If I look back from 2019 to now, there's def i nitely more openness to wearing brooches, and across genders.'Kolkata-based jewellery designer Eina Ahluwalia has noticed an uptick in demand for her monogram brooches. 'Jewellery is experiencing a vintage mood revival. Brooches are feeling fresh again, and they are the perfect gender-neutral accessory.' Ahluwalia says they get requests for customised brooches. 'I see a lot of people adding brooches to their bags, and I find that much more interesting than hanging a Labubu!' Even Tribe Amrapali, a brand known for traditional jewellery, has noticed a steady growth in this category. CEO Akanksha Arora says many factors are at play: first, the way we look at jewellery is changing—it's now about self-expression; second, vintage culture is having a strong moment; people want pieces with history, or at least something that feels like it could be passed down.Delhi-based accessories designer Paulami Saha works with fabrics but started making brooches to repurpose textile waste. 'I hadn't imagined that there existed an audience who might shy away from traditional jewellery, yet embrace brooches as their signature statement. This was a revelation.' The dog and cat designs are their current bestsellers.Saha says brooches are a playful accessory that can turn any outfit into a conversation starter. Kanika Suri, director of Noida-based premium accessories label Tossido, says 2025 has seen a significant revival in brooches. 'For us, the shift started post-Covid,' she says. It's not about only the big pieces but there's a lot of creativity around placement and layering. Their bestsellers are the animal brooches, enamel and studded florals, and pins with bugs.Tossido's brooches range from Rs 699 to Rs 2,259. The choice of brooch depends on what you are wearing. Co-director Raghav Suri says, 'A bandhgala often calls for more classic, vintage-style brooches, while you can wear quirky ones over a casual blazer.'Vandana M Jagwani, founder, Vandals and creative director of Mahesh Notandass, says the brooch revival is rooted in history and puts men front and centre of wearing jewellery—something they did quite regularly traditionally. She adds, 'At the moment, men seem to be embracing brooches more than women. However, wearing a brooch every day still feels a bit 'extra' for most.'But that 'extra' is what Raj says will make a powerful style statement as he calls them 'little personality injections'. Brooches are surprisingly versatile. His advice? For work, pick sleek, small, geometric shapes or initials and place on your blazer lapel, shirt placket, or the base of a tie knot. For evenings, go for oversized florals, gem-encrusted pieces, or sculptural designs or layer two smaller ones together. For daily wear, go for quirky or personalised pins on denim jackets, sweaters, or tote straps. He says: 'Always pin through a reinforced area like a lapel, seam, or double layer of fabric to prevent sagging or damage. For heavy brooches, add a backing disc or hidden safety pin inside the garment for support.'
The modern brooch is a free spirit: you can wear it on your shirts, waistbands, cinch or gather fabric on dresses or tunics, on any headgear and even clipped to chains, Raj says. Vinayak Modani, founder of Jaipurbased contemporary accessories brand Milk & Whisky, says people seek quirky picks with something unique like their stock market pin with a bull fighting a bear. He says, 'One should invest in a brooch box with a mix of brooches in various sizes and finishes.' What excites Arora is the trend of layering multiple brooches together like curating your own mini gallery on your outfit. Her tip: 'Start your collection with versatile, mediumsized pieces that work with multiple outfits. A classic floral, a geometric form, and something with a pop of colour make a great starter set.' Raj calls them wearable art—they don't need sizing and transcend trends. His starter pack would include something classic (gold, silver, gemstone); something statement (oversized, sculptural) and something quirky/ personal. Looks for quality clasps and solid construction, he says.Narsinghani says that people are getting much more experimental with how they wear brooches—on shirt collars, sari pleats, belts, hats, handbags, even on the back of a dress.As Raj says, 'The brooch was always underrated.' It's time to pin it up.