
Bring the periphery to the centre
It was the final day of the week-long Rongali Bihu celebrations to mark the beginning of the Assamese new year and sowing season. Guwahati was dressed in festive finery, with vibrant japis (hats) and gamosas (white-and-red handwoven fabric) adorning every pause and turn. Assam State Museum was celebrating its 86th Foundation Day, recalling the contributions of many, especially Rai Bahadur Kanak Lal Barua, who had spent their lives collecting, documenting, and disseminating the tangible and intangible heritage of the people of Assam.An invitation to Guwahati in end- April felt like being in the right place at the right time. Earning one's pitha (rice cake) and laru (a sweet) by speaking on the sculptural heritage of Assam to an august assembly can be daunting. But delectable larus and the beauty of Assamese sculptures make for a heady combination that can embolden an art historian to let her thoughts flow with the Brahmaputra.
The Brahmaputra valley is a connected-yet-distinct geographical space nestled within the eastern Himalayas, Patkai, and Naga hills, and the Garo-Khasi-Jaintia and Mikir hills. Its natural beauty finds mention even in ancient inscriptions that extol its golden hills in the likeness of Kailash, with gushing waters of the grand Lauhitya River resembling the silvery rays of the moon.
Brahmaputra, lifeline of the valley, is known by 'Lauhitya' in some early inscriptions and texts. The ancient name of Assam best corresponds to Kamarupa in some historical records, such as Samudragupta's famous Allahabad pillar inscription, and Kautilya's Arthashastra. The other name, Pragjyotisha, of the epics and epigraphs, also included territories corresponding to ancient Assam. Assam's remote antiquity goes back to the Stone Age. But written records in the form of inscriptions begin to offer insights into its early history only from 4th c. CE. Substantial art and architectural remains in stone have survived from 6th c. CE, most notably, a grand temple doorway at Da Parbatia in the Tezpur-Sonitpur region (photo).
Often explained in terms of a 'Gupta art'-inspired door frame, its own localised aesthetics have remained unsung. The personified river goddesses, Ganga and Yamuna, are conceptually aligned with 'Gupta' temple doorframes. But their iconography and stylistics at Da Parbatia reveal refined local artistic sensibilities. The presence of Lakulisha on the door lintel and, beneath him, a majestic garuda (eagle) in combat with nagas (serpents) is distinctively rendered, even if a coin of Gupta king Skandagupta Kramaditya reveals similar iconography. That ancient Kamarupa was connected with the great Gupta empire of central India is well-known. In the Allahabad pillar inscription, the king of Kamarupa is addressed as a 'pratyanta nripati' (frontier king). But even if Kamarupa was peripheral to the Gupta empire, centre and periphery are relative to one's vantage point. In its regional interactions with eastern Indian kingdoms too, from the time of King Shashanka of Gauda (circa early 7th c.) to the Palas of Bengal and Bihar (c. 8th-12th c.), Assam's contributions to regional, national, and Asian histories have remained underrepresented, if not eclipsed. It is a truism to say that West Bengal, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal, Assam and Northeast Indian states formed culturally contiguous zones of contact with shifting political boundaries before the establishment of modern nation-states sharply segregated their identities. Perhaps less obvious is how such shared pasts are sculpted in stone. The artistic imagination of a multi-armed dancing Shiva (Nritteshvara) astride Vrishabha-Nandi (bull) is an east-northeast Indian creative innovation that had travelled to neighbouring and distant lands as far as Champa in ancient Vietnam. Perhaps nowhere is he as evocatively visualised as in a large 10th c. stone roundel housed in the Assam State Museum at Guwahati (photo). The northeast and its artistic achievements deserve to be relocated from the periphery to the centre. It's high time.
The writer is professor of art history, Department of History, University of Delhi
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Time of India
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- Time of India
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Time of India
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Hindustan Times
23-05-2025
- Hindustan Times
Boosted by Covid-19, Goa's yacht tourism has not looked back since
For Neeraj Gupta, it was a hobby that turned into a business idea. The 49-year-old engineer has been owning yachts — luxury watercraft generally used for pleasure — since 2007, which he would intermittently give out on rent whenever the request arrived. Such days, however, were rare. But the Covid-19 years turned things around for him. Gupta, who started off with three yachts when he first started letting them out on rent through bookings via aggregators in 2015-16, today owns nine boats of various sizes. The industry as a whole, which had around nine boats for hire at the start of Covid-19, now has around 45. 'Ours is the fastest growing sector in Goa's tourism. Over the next year or so the number of yachts in operation is expected to go up to 55 considering all the orders placed,' Gupta said. 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And with us you have the added benefits of unmatched views and ambience and a completely private and exclusive experience. For many this represents significant value. This, in a country where 99.9% of the population will never be able to afford to buy a yacht,' Gupta said. And not without reason. The cost of a yacht, the kind that operates in Goa's waters, ranges from ₹65 lakh to ₹2.5 crore, excluding taxes and duties depending on where they are imported from. The cost of a luxury yacht from Europe ranges from ₹7 crore to ₹15 crore, depending on the level of luxury and size. Yachts have been available for hire in Goa since 2002, but according to industry insiders, the market really picked up during the pandemic when having an isolated holiday experience was on the top of everyone's checklist. 'A lot of tourists came to Goa after the lockdown at a time when the rest of the industry was closed and were looking for a private experience. Business picked up like no other,' Gupta added. 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Back in 2015, the Goa Investment Promotion Board granted its in-principle approval for the setting up of two marinas in the state — Yacht Haven will set up a 300-yacht marina in Sancoale along the southern bank of River Zuari, while another yacht marina 'AHOY' (Anytime Harbour of Yachts Pvt. Ltd) with a capacity of around 330 vessels including yachts, sail boats and other leisure vessels, is being planned along the northern bank of River Zuari, south of the capital Panaji in a fishing village. The former had sought 1.5-lakh square metres of water surface for the marina, while the latter around 1-lakh square metres. However, over a decade later, neither of the projects took off as they got caught in the web of permissions, clearances and opposition by fishermen and locals. But that hasn't stopped the industry from growing. While Goa's tourism industry reported a growth of around 10% year-on-year, the yacht industry saw a growth of 22%. Yet the industry believes it is only just getting started. 'Goa's advantage is that no one bothers you about what you wear, what you drink and how you celebrate. If you wear a bikini sipping champagne or beer on a boat in Goa, no one will bat an eyelid. The authorities will also not harass you. The same cannot be said for other places in India, which also have the potential to develop yacht tourism,' a yacht operator, who didn't wish to be identified, said. Goa's reputation as a party destination has made it possible. It was only in April this year that the Goa Tourism Department woke up to the scale of the industry and issued a circular directing 'all water sports operators conducting the activity of yachting within the state to ensure strict compliance with the provisions of the Goa Registration of Tourist Trade Act'. According to tourism director Kedar Naik, the circular was in response to a 'growing number of operators found operating yacht activities without obtaining the necessary NOC, license or permission from the Department' and was with the intent to 'regulate yachting services, enhance tourist safety, and ensure adherence to legal protocols'. Industry insiders also conceded that rogue and fly-by-night operators who 'don't deliver on the boat they show in pictures' were doing a huge disservice to the industry that prides itself on offering a premium experience. 'There are a lot of agents and aggregators who sell services of boats which they do not own. They sell you the image of one boat in the brochure but when you arrive all decked up for your party there's an ordinary boat waiting for you. You can't even call them yachts,' the operator quoted above said. Challenges faced by the sector Operators believe that the growth in the yacht industry will have its limits, especially when it comes to the kind of experience one can offer. 'We have reached the limits of the price points we can offer here in Goa. Those who can afford to pay more are an extremely small percentage of people and they will simply choose to have the experience either in Europe or Maldives, Mauritius or Seychelles,' Gupta said. 'Even Dubai or Thailand won't be options for them,' he added. The clement weather, which allows for basking in the sun on a yacht deck in Monaco, Greece or Croatia, cannot be offered in Goa. Operators have also faced issues in procuring quality boats domestically while imported boats attract an import duty of 54%. 'Almost all of the boats that we procure are imported. Locally made craft are simply not available in the size and quality we are seeking simply because of low volumes,' Gupta said. 'Import duty for yachts is placed at 54%. We believe that since we are primarily using the vessels not for personal pleasure, it should be charged at the 5% duty that is charged for excursions,' Gupta said. 'The import duty on a private plane is 0%, why can't it be similar for yachts?' he asked. This isn't to say there is no manufacturing locally. Captain Dilip Dhonde, a Navy officer and the first Indian to circumnavigate the globe under sail and Commander Abhilash Tomy, the first Indian to solo circumnavigate the world non-stop undersail, did so on a sailing yacht — the INSV Mhadei — that was built at the Aquarius shipyard located at the Divar Island in Goa. Another sailing yacht — the INSV Tarini — was used by the Indian Navy's all-women sailing team to circumnavigate the world and is currently on the high seas as part of Navika Sagar Parikrama II, in which two women Navy officers are attempting to circumnavigate the world. That the Indian Navy's Ocean Sailing Node is located in Goa has only served to buttress the state's claim as one of the country's premier yachting hubs. The fishermen aren't pleased It's a title that has earned the ire of the state's fishing community who believe that the yachting business will come at the cost of the community. In a petition filed before the National Green Tribunal, two local fishermen belonging to traditional fisher communities and who depend on depend on fishing using traditional methods by using cast net, gillnet by using canoe in rivers for their livelihood have sought the declaration that 'the nine private standalone jetties used for yachting by private persons/ tourists are impermissible in fishing villages and ward as notified under the Coastal Zone Management Plan and that allowing the continuation of such jetties has resulted in them suffering heavy losses due to over exploitation by tourism business in the river'. 'The only activities permissible in a designated fishing village (fishing ward identified as per the Draft Goa CZMP prepared by NCSCM) are those required for fishing and fishery allied activities,' the petition alleged. The National Green Tribunal has issued notices in response to the petition. In April this year, when the Inland Waterways Authority of India approved a private jetty to be set up at the cost of ₹8 crore, it was quickly opposed by the local panchayat, who believed the village didn't have the capacity to host larger activity without displacing local populations. But the industry is not fazed. 'Goa currently has around 45 operating boats, while Dubai has 2,000. We are operating only in one of the state's rivers whereas the state has the capacity to host cruises in others as well, particularly in the Chapora and Sal rivers,' Gupta added. 'A yachting trip has now become an important aspect of tourists' Goa itinerary. What would take the experience even further is if there was a common jetty from where all the operators would set sail. In that way the consumer would have a wider choice and be able to choose his/her boat based on what he sees in front of him,' he said. 'For a business that promotes the sunset, we're rising on the horizon,' he added.