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I've Chased Waterfalls Around the World—but These Twin Falls in the Caribbean Stunned Me
I've always had a bit of a rebellious travel streak, defying the advice of the popular 1994 TLC song and chasing waterfalls around the globe. Perhaps inspired by childhood trips to Niagara Falls and Yosemite Falls, I've never hesitated to go the distance to witness the roaring power of natural cascades, even traveling to Zimbabwe for Victoria Falls and to both Brazil and Argentina for Iguazú Falls.
Having witnessed so many of the greats—of all sizes, shapes, and flows—I became somewhat jaded to waterfalls. That is, until I visited the Caribbean island nation of Dominica a few weeks back.
As soon as I arrived to Nature Island—which earned its moniker for its lush terrain filled with verdant rainforests, mountains, and stunning shorelines—all the gregariously welcoming locals asked me if I'd been to Trafalgar Falls. There was a sense of pride when they mentioned the waterfalls, and my curiosity grew deeper.
While many waterfalls have names that are plural because they're made up of smaller cascades, I learned that what made this one so distinctive is that it was actually a pair of twin falls, tucked within Morne Trois Pitons National Park. A 17,297-acre UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, the park's 'luxuriant natural tropical forest blends with scenic volcanic features of great scientific interest,' according to UNESCO. With steep valleys, fumaroles, lakes, and volcanos, the unusual combination made it a rather distinct backdrop that this waterfall chaser couldn't resist.
Located about a 20-minute drive from the capital of Roseau, the narrow road twisted and turned before reaching the modest visitors' center. From there, a pathway through the rainforest served as the opening act, drawing me deeper into the trenches of the valley hugged by the mountain peaks on all sides.
Just 10 minutes into the walk, I was surprised to hear the gentle roar of the falls. Sure enough, just steps later, I was on a wooden platform, in awe of the sight in front of me.
The two falls appeared simultaneously, almost as if they had choreographed their appearance, positioned on their stage back-to-back. The taller 125-foot one sat on the left and is referred to as Mother, while the 75-foot smaller (but stronger) one on the right is referred to as Father. (Many people reverse the nicknames, going purely by height, according to Discover Dominica.)
With a bold granite stone between them, they appeared like two sides of a coin, so I was especially stunned to learn that they actually come from two completely different sources, with the Father Falls sourced by Freshwater Lake, whose waters flow through Ti-Tou Gorge. Meanwhile, the Mother Falls' water actually comes from the Breakfast River. That very fact made them even more impressive: it was an act of Mother Nature's happenstance that joined them at this point. (Sure I had seen multiple falls before, but just imagining how two completely separate sources led to the same spot and happened to create the mesmerizing sight was mind-boggling.)
As I peered at the falls, I saw there was actually another pair of falls within them, like another generation of baby twin falls, within the lower cascades on the left.
For the adventurously spirited, there's a hot springs pool within the Mother Falls where we spotted a pair of travelers climbing the rock scramble. The Dominican government's forestry, wildlife, and parks division says that while the 0.12-mile walk to the viewing platform is easy to moderate, the one down to the base of the falls is difficult and that 'a tour guide is highly recommended for accessing beyond viewing platform.'
On this rainy day with slippery rocks, I opted to stay and enjoy the view of the pair together in the warmth of the thermal heat, thanks to the five volcanos in the national park.
On my way back down, I passed the small village of Trafalgar, after which the falls are named, before stopping at Ti Kwen Glo Cho in Wotten Waven to soak in its natural hot springs pools. Getting to experience the warm waters of the area while also sitting right in the rainforest among local families truly felt like I was striking the best of both worlds.
Trafalgar Falls is located about five miles east of Dominica's capital of Roseau, accessible through Trafalgar or Wotten Waven, and has a $5 admission fee for non-residents, payable on site.
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