'I went to the 'end of the world' where time grinds to a near halt'

Daily Mirror

22-06-2025

Striking the right balance between relaxation and exploration can prove a challenge on any trip. The temptation when on the clock in a new place is to rush around ticking off sights, often resulting in blurred memories and fatigue.
My visit to the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland taught me a lesson in how to really take in my surroundings and resist the urge to press on with a hurried stride. Take time to smell the roses, or in my case, the cheeses.
This awakening experience began in the picturesque village of Adelboden, an idyllic chalet village 4,430ft above sea level, with blooming alpine meadows and crystal-clear lakes. Home to only 3,500 inhabitants, versatile Adelboden comes alive during winter with tourists swooping in for its mountain sports on its dream pistes and World Cup race in January.
It actually became the destination for the first winter sports package holiday, ­organised by tourism pioneer Sir Henry Lunn in 1902. In the warmer months, it's ideal for those wanting to gaze at the scenery at their own pace while traversing its walking trails, mountain bike routes, cable cars, or swimming in the lakes.
The village's standout hotel was acquired by Welsh brothers Craig and Grant Maunder in 2009 and renamed The Cambrian – a subtle nod to their home country (Cambria translates as Wales in Latin). This stunning, four-star superior hotel, rebuilt in the Belle Epoque style in the 20th century, is the perfect place to unwind, offering a swanky spa with pool, Finnish sauna, steam bath and outdoor infinity pool, which comes with breathtaking views of the Swiss Alps.
At the hotel's Bryn Williams restaurant, named after the chef who hails from North Wales, diners can enjoy dishes created with Swiss and Welsh influences. From here, take a short bus journey to nearby mountain village Elsigen where you can ride the gondola to reach an alpine cheese farm hidden away in the peaks.
Welcomed into the home of the Germann's, father-and-on duo Adolf and Peter offered expert insight into their longstanding family tradition of cheesemaking.
After explaining the process of producing cheeses including Alpkase, Mutschli, Raclette and Ziger, which are heated at temperatures ranging from 36-90C, I was able to sit down and sample the freshly made blocks. They were full of flavour, thanks to added extras such as garlic and chilli.
It is not only food production keeping this area ticking nicely over, however, with the natural wonders of the lakes and mountains serving as a major pull. With the sun beating down, I grabbed the chance to take a dip in the crystal-clear water of the Brandsee Lake and could not resist the inflatable slide invitingly positioned only several strokes away.
It's a short drive to Engstilgenalp where you can jump on a cable car and head above the second tallest waterfall in Switzerland, 1,969ft Engstilgenalp Falls.
A trip to the ­neighbouring town of Gstaad was next on the agenda. Famed for its old-world elegance, which has attracted the likes of Princess Diana and Madonna to the region, I enjoyed a taste of the finer things, checking in at the new Mansard Boutique Hotel.
Located centrally, The Mansard boasts the only rooftop bar in Gstaad and was a hit among locals, who were drinking in the views with a few glasses of wine.
Equally as impressive was the food in the ground floor restaurant. I opted for the starter special of mushroom pasta, followed by a main of sole with parsley butter, spinach and mashed potatoes. Finishing on a sweet note, a glass of vanilla ice cream with strawberries and Maraschino liqueur rounded off a memorable meal.
The following morning in Gstaad, I got to experience a great annual celebration, which is loved by tourists and locals.Visitors began to pour into the town during the early hours of the morning, creating an instant buzz. This was the start of the Zuglete, the procession of cattle from the mountains to the heart of the town.
A tradition kept for centuries to signify the return of the herds and herdsmen to the valley, thousands of people line the streets of Gstaad for a glimpse of cows, dressed in colourful floral headdresses, and goats that continually serve the area.
Such a day presents a lucrative opportunity for local businesses. One woman I met had spent 30 years on the Landfrauen Saanenland selling items ranging from cheese to marmalade. 'I will not get rich with what I'm doing,' she insisted.
'I do this out of passion, for the community, because being together is not about having an income, it's out of love.'
Aside from the ­heightened sense of drama created by the Zuglete, Gstaad's relaxation-related motto of 'Comeup, slow down' can't be argued with.
But those seeking a total escape should head to the tiny village of Ablandschen – situated on the edge of the Bernese Oberland and the Freiburg Alps, 4,265ft above sea level. Known locally as Detox Valley and home to only 32 inhabitants, here you can pay a visit to the smallest church in Switzerland and dine at the inviting Berghotel zur Sau.
'Welcome to the end of the world' is the message from owners of the cosy establishment to prospective guests, who can try a range of Swiss dishes. Mushrooms and potatoes that accompanied my main dish of pork were grown just around the corner while the starter salad was made up of handpicked ingredients.
A bottle of the sparkling Blanc de Noirs – a Swiss spin on Champagne due to its mirrored production process – was the perfect accompaniment.
My trip ended by catching the state-of-the-art GoldenPass Express train from Gstaad to Montreux – an 80-minute journey offering panoramic views of the Swiss Alps and valleys plus Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).
This route is included in the Swiss Travel Pass (see information box above right) and seated in prestige class – elevated in terms of height in the carriage and service – I tried out my heated leather seat, capable of rotating 180 degrees, before enjoying a cheese board and coffee.
Gazing out the window as I glided through this breathtaking scenery, I was offered one final reminder of how avoiding well-trodden paths, going out of the main season and taking in the sights at your own pace makes travel so much more satisfying.