Princess Noura bint Faisal Al Saud and Sian Tichar want to upend how the world views Saudi Arabian heritage

The National

16-04-2025

'They think we only wear black, but for us, we know our heritage is rich with colour,' says Princess Noura bint Faisal Al Saud. 'Every region has its own identity, its own palette and its own traditions. As a Saudi Arabian, I wanted to make sure that the world sees how beautiful our culture is and how proud we are of it.' Her new book, Costumes of Saudi Arabia: A Heritage of Fashion, co-authored with Sian Tichar, features photography by Laziz Hamani and is published by Assouline. It's a sumptuous 192-page visual and intellectual journey through the kingdom's traditional clothing – part archival record and part celebration of Saudi Arabia's sartorial past. Until recently, Saudi dress was often perceived as uniform – defined by billowing black abayas and niqabs. But as the kingdom opens up, Princess Noura and Tichar are determined to reveal a culture as nuanced as its embroidery. Researched over the course of a year, the book is a tribute to a rapidly vanishing world of heritage and artistry. The project's roots date back to 2019, when the duo first collaborated on Fashion Futures, Saudi Arabia's inaugural fashion conference, led by the Ministry of Culture. 'Princess Noura and I come from fashion backgrounds,' says Tichar. 'She was leading the national fashion strategy and I was advising.' The pair quickly discovered a shared passion. That first exhibition, The Hidden Kaleidoscope, focused on regional dress and included a mini booklet. 'I think, from that exhibition, Sian and I looked at each other and said, we have to do a book,' says Princess Noura. 'It was so easy for us to transfer that into a wider collection.' Intent on going beyond museum archives, they sought out garments preserved in private homes. 'We wanted to get pieces from individuals who are keeping and saving something they had from their grandparents,' explains Princess Noura. The resulting book isn't about a single collection, but a mosaic of rediscovered pieces. 'Princess Noura phoned up family members, looked through old address books and asked via old and ancient networks, 'Who are the people sitting on the most beautiful, valuable and authentic costumes in the Kingdom?'' says Tichar. 'Then we tracked them down.' Their research took them from the kingdom's northern borders – where men's coats are made from thick sheep's wool to withstand desert cold – to the lush south, where female farmers wore wide-brimmed palm hats and colourful serwal (trousers) beneath short dresses. Each ensemble reflects geography, climate and way of life. One striking discovery was a pink and silver bridal look from Makkah, adorned with a pearl-strewn breastplate and delicate silver-thread embroidery – an aesthetic still echoed in contemporary Saudi wedding dress. Other traditional cuts and embellishments continue to influence Ramadan wardrobes today. The book also uncovers rare accessories – beaded pouches once used to store kohl eyeliner and elevated wooden hammam slippers – engraved in silver and reminiscent of 1990s Vivienne Westwood platforms. 'What's fascinating is that they were raised so that women wouldn't get their feet wet, but were engraved in metal and silver, so not practical at all,' says Tichar. 'What does that say about society and women and dress across all cultures?' The timing is critical. As Saudi Arabia continues its path of rapid transformation, there's a growing urgency to archive cultural legacies before they're lost. 'The most worrying thing about costumes, and this isn't specific to Saudi, is their care and maintenance over time,' says Tichar. 'They need a lot of care, and they need to be kept in temperature and humidity-controlled environments. Saudi Arabia, like many cultures, is in a race to preserve this part of history.' With this book, at least, many garments now have a permanent home on the printed page. In a world dominated by fast fashion, Costumes of Saudi Arabia is a love letter to craftsmanship, memory and identity. 'Fashion is a language,' says Tichar. 'If you know how to read it, you learn about the people who wear it.'