Sydney vs Melbourne: Which Australian art city deserves your vote?
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The Advertiser
10 hours ago
- The Advertiser
Sydney vs Melbourne: Which Australian art city deserves your vote?
A Yayoi Kusama sculture at the Art Gallery of NSW. By Mal Chenu and Amy Cooper Sydney and Melbourne love a rivalry. Coffee, footy, laneways, beaches - you name it, they'll turn it into a competition. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area Now two of our travel writers are stepping into the cultural boxing ring, each ready to throw a few punches for their city's pride. In the blue corner: Sydney's dazzling Art Gallery of NSW, all harbour sparkle and Archibald glamour. In the black-and-white corner: Melbourne's NGV, with more masterpieces than you can count and a beret-wearing fan club to match. Which one wins your vote? Art should be fun. It shouldn't be like my first school trip to a gallery, filled with 2D scowling men pairing armour with tights, and ended abruptly by one kid's decision to break the tedium by writing "exit" on a nude statue's butt (although you could argue that this, too, was art). Art is about escapism and imagination, freedom and hope, and galleries should make your heart soar. Which brings me to my artistic difference with Mal, my fellow columnist below. While Melbourne's NGV boasts Australia's biggest art collection, its main HQ is a bleak grey slab that gives the sense you might never escape, and nobody will hear you scream. The Here Comes Everybody sculpture at the Art Gallery of NSW. Picture supplied (What is it about Melbourne and first impressions? Luna Park's only job is to be jolly, but it has a nightmarish demented ghoul face for an entrance.) By contrast, Art Gallery of NSW has joy built into its beautiful bones. Light floods the pavilions and terraces of the award-winning 2022 Naala Badu ("seeing waters") building and gilds the gracious Romanesque pink columns on the 19th-century original wing. A technicolour Yayoi Kusama flower sculpture greets you outside, along with Francis Upritchard's Here Comes Everybody - a gathering of lanky bronze playmates frolicking on the forecourt. The message is unmistakable: good times await. And well they might, because you're in a prime harbourside playground; emerald parkland on one side, glittering water on the other - a place for picnics and party boats. Basically, standard Sydney - dazzling before you even reach the art. When you do, it's formidable; about 36,000 works including one of Australia's broadest Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander collections, historic European greats from Rubens to Rodin, Asian treasures - and the biggest ticket in Australian art: the annual Archibald Prize. Fans flock to see it, because even Picasso (and AGNSW has 15) can't please a crowd like portraits of Hugo Weaving cuddling a cat or Adam Goodes in his Swannies kit. There's star power on the menu, too, because Sydney knows every party needs good food; flagship restaurants by celeb chefs Matt Moran, Sushil Aryal and Ngemba Weilwan woman Sharon Winsor. Five eateries in all - more than many a five-star hotel. When the stunning $344 million Naala Badu opened in 2022, the gallery's director declared it "could only be in Sydney". He meant the building's sundrenched coastal beauty. But it's deeper than that. AGNSW is Sydney's exuberant spirit personified - the antidote to stuffy and musty, and filled with inviting, inclusive innovations like Australia's first Children's Art Library, where noise and creativity are encouraged, and Art After Hours on Wednesdays, when you can stay until 10pm for activities from dance classes to meditation, films and tours - all with a pop-up bar. Melbourne's gallery may have amassed more masterpieces, but Sydney's has massively mastered the art of fun. Here Comes Everybody is spot on. As someone who won a participation certificate for finger painting at kindy, I am well qualified to look at the big picture and frame an argument in favour of the National Gallery of Victoria, known simply to its many admirers as "the NGV". Having a well-accepted acronym is an important part of gallery cred, as MoMA in New York and MONA in Hobart can attest. National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne. Picture supplied Comprised of two buildings - NGV International on St Kilda Road and the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia in Federation Square - this is Australia's oldest and most visited gallery. Founded in 1861, the NGV holds the most significant collection of art in Australia, with a treasure trove of more than 76,000 works. NGV International welcomes visitors with a giant water wall and fountains at the entrance, before opening into a cavernous interior with an enormous stained-glass ceiling. Similarly, the Federation Square Atrium leads to the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, where thousands of years of Indigenous virtuosity and a couple of hundred years of colonial flair come together to paint a history of the wide brown land. Indigenous highlights include Tommy McRae's Corroboree and the Wurrdha Marra (Many Mobs) collection, plus possum skin cloaks and ochre paintings from the Dreaming. Colonial masterpieces feature Tom Roberts' Shearing the Rams and Frederick McCubbin's The Pioneer. From beyond these shores, Giambattista Tiepolo's The Banquet of Cleopatra and Picasso's Weeping Woman lead a star-studded international line-up. The NGV boasts a truly ecumenical and worldly collection. Sydney vs Melbourne: Which Australian art city deserves your vote? Location, location is usually more a Sydney thing, but the NGV venues are slap bang in the middle of the Melbourne Arts Precinct, nestled among cafes where ethically sourced coffee is served with tasting notes printed on recycled bark. The Art Gallery of NSW sits atop The Domain in Sydney, where a sweaty uphill climb culminates in stepping over bin chicken droppings at the entrance. We learned this week that the Art Gallery of NSW is cutting jobs and slashing its budget, which is bad news for Sydney and lousy timing for Amy. Conversely, the NGV is getting bigger and better. In 2028, The Fox: NGV Contemporary will be Australia's largest contemporary art gallery when it opens at Southbank. That is, unless it goes the way of the Commonwealth Games and the state government pays $600 million to move it to Glasgow at the last minute. Amy is painting herself into a corner, brushing over the fact that Melbourne is the undisputed cultural capital of the nation. I mean, if half your patrons aren't wearing black berets over purple hair and wearing a Collingwood guernsey, can you even call yourself an Aussie art gallery?
