‘A nostalgic 1980s-style chip': the best supermarket oven chips, tasted and rated

The Guardian

a day ago

I'm not sure I've ever bought a bag of oven chips. My mum bought them in the 1980s and 90s, but they were never nice, and sometimes resembled cardboard. I've always assumed they were among the most processed foods on the planet, so I was pleasantly surprised by the quality, taste and even health scores of the brands tested here, which I assessed using the Yuka app. Most are low in salt, sugar and saturated fat, and had relatively simple recipe formulas.
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While a few brands included concerning ingredients – such as disodium diphosphate and artificial flavourings – most use a blend of sunflower and rapeseed oil, with no hazardous additives. However, nearly all contained a small amount of dextrose, a sugar that feels unnecessary here, not least because potatoes already have a natural sweetness. Just two brands were dextrose-free, earning them an extra point.
To improve crunch and texture, many brands coat their chips in a mix of flours and starches, typically wheat, rice, maize or pea flour, and sometimes with raising agents. Though not essential, these coatings contribute to golden, crisp exteriors that, when done well, enhance the chip; done badly, however, they bring a slightly processed edge. Overall, the results of this test were genuinely impressive, so much so, in fact, that I'm now planning to develop my own version of oven chips at home.
There wasn't much to go on regarding sustainability, although I awarded a point where products disclosed the variety and origin of the potatoes used. Some highlighted their use of maris pipers – a classic chip variety prized for its high starch and low moisture content, creating that ideal fluffy interior and crunchy exterior. Every bag I tested was packaged in LDPE 4 plastic or similar, which is recyclable only in-store, so a missed opportunity for more accessible recycling.
★★★★★
Rich, savoury flavour with a crisp, golden, skin-on exterior and fluffy interior. Excellent texture and thick cut. Coated in maize, rice, pea flour and dextrose. Made with British potatoes. Gluten-free. Remarkable value.
★★★☆☆
Golden brown and very long, which is quite fun. A chewy yet crunchy exterior and sweet, earthy flavour with hints of baked potato. British potatoes coated in rice and maize flour with modified starches. Gluten-free and outstanding value.
★★★★☆
A perfectly even, golden exterior and lovely, chunky shape. Really tasty, with rich, umami-laden notes from the beef fat. The coating includes potato, maize starch, and rice and pea flours, but it's well-executed and contributes to a satisfying crunch. Gluten-free. Pricey, but still reasonable value.
★★★★☆
Skin-on and beautifully browned with a chunky cut. Fluffy and delicious with a clean, simple flavour because of the refreshingly short ingredients list – these are just maris piper potatoes and sunflower oil, so they are gluten- and dextrose-free. The only chip to earn an extra sustainability point due to Strong Roots' B Corp status. More expensive than many others, but fair value given the ethical credentials.
★★★★☆
Fresh-tasting, homemade feel and a clean flavour. Smooth, creamy interior with a crisp, skin-on exterior and chunky round cut. Coated with rice flour, potato starch, dextrin and turmeric. Gluten-free, though no provenance details.
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★★★☆☆
A nostalgic 1980s-style oven chip with decent crunch, though the interior was moist and smooth, rather than fluffy. Remarkable to see just two ingredients (potatoes and oil), not least because at this price point processed foods often have more complex formulas. Gluten-free and dextrose-free, too. Incredible for the money.
★★★☆☆
Golden, thanks to the addition of turmeric and pepper extract. A moreish, savoury-sweet flavour with enjoyable crunch (because of the bicarb, potato starch and rice flour coating). Closer to a french fry than a classic chip. Contains disodium diphosphate, a phosphate additive that some may wish to avoid. Gluten-free.
★★☆☆☆
Classic golden chip shop-style chip with a clean, vegetal flavour, crunchy coating and moist centre. British potatoes coated in wheat, corn and rice flour batter. Not my favourite, but excellent value and one of the rare dextrose-free products.
★★☆☆☆
Thick-cut and well-browned with a soft, slightly oily interior. Sweet but not especially flavourful. Dusted with flours for added crunch. One of the only products detailing origin and potato variety (these are made with British maris pipers). Good value but not as tasty as I'd expected. Contain gluten, too.
★★☆☆☆
Beautiful colour and long cut with a welcome crunchy and fluffy texture. However, the flavour feels a little artificial and less natural than many of the others, and these contain artificial flavourings, too, so with superior products at lower prices, I'd shop elsewhere. Gluten-free.