Cria Launches Ultimate 5-Day Tour Itinerary Showcasing Albania's UNESCO Jewels

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Yahoo

2 days ago

Yahoo

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Hear the word Albania and you probably picture gorgeous ocean views, Mediterranean sunsets or Dua Lipa's Instagram feed. It's why people heading to this underrated Mediterranean country are usually in search of its gorgeous rocky coast and find themselves speeding through the capital, Tirana. It's not seen as a destination in itself, with most people only spending a night there before jetting off to the southern seaside escapes of Sarandë and Ksamil. This is a shame, because anybody who finds themselves in Tirana for any length of time will discover a city currently undergoing an extraordinary transformation. Freed from five decades of dictatorship and economic stagnation, investment is now pouring into the Albanian capital, leaving fascinating new buildings, restaurants and cafes in its wake. With a growing foodie scene, a complex history and laid-back attitude, Tirana rewards the traveller who takes the time to explore it properly. Here's how to get under the skin of this buzzing city. Sightseeing galore Albania isn't a nation that's had much experience of independence. It was conquered first by the Ottomans (and occupied for 400 years); then, once they disappeared in the aftermath of the First World War, the Germans and Italians moved in during the Second. After that, the Albanian army general Enver Hoxha (backed by the USSR) swept to power on a wave of populist enthusiasm in the late 1940s. In a depressingly predictable twist, he then became a ruthless dictator, who brutally quashed all forms of dissent, sent rebels to concentration camps and plunged the country into decades of gruelling poverty. As a result, not much of Tirana's old city survives; much of it was levelled in a frenzy of Communist and Brutalist enthusiasm. However, glimpses are still visible, especially around Skanderbeg square in the capital's heart. To see them all, hopping on a free walking tour is always a good option (book in advance on It's also well suited for solo travellers. In addition to the modernist opera house that frames the edge of the square, do also head to the ancient mosque, Et'hem Bey, that sits next to it. Built by the Ottomans in the 1700s, it's a beautiful, simple bit of architecture framed by a clock tower on one side and the broad square on the other. From there, head onwards through the old streets to the new bazaar, which sells tourist trinkets and woven rugs as well as fruit and veg, and make time to wander up through Rruga Murat Toptani towards the old castle. Much of it was levelled by the Communists, but the remains have been stuffed with shops and are a nice place to sit and drink a coffee. One of the nicest things about Tirana is how much thought has been put into its revitalisation. It is not bland, soulless and full of skyscrapers like many modern cities; instead, architects have been commissioned from around the world to build quirky towers that add an interesting new dimension to the skyline. Check out the Skandarbeg tower near the main square as an example of that: built by Dutch studio MVRDV, its waves and curves, when viewed from the right angle, form a portrait of Albania's national hero, Skander. Relics of Hoxha are also visible around the capital in the form of the ostentatious pyramid designed by his daughter Pranvera as a shrine to her deceased father's memory. Pleasingly, these days it's home to a youth training centre; the steps on the outside can also be climbed, offering great views at the top. There are also the tiny, two-man bunkers Hoxha had installed around the capital (and the country) in the event of an invasion that never came, and his old house is now a museum in the Blloku neighbourhood. For people that really want to learn more about Hoxha's dictatorship, there's also Bunk'Art. Situated in an old government underground bunker (which was built in the event of nuclear war), it's impressive in scale: set over five stories. It has more than 100 different rooms, some of which have been mocked up to demonstrate how they would have looked under the regime. The museum itself gets into detail about the extent of police control in Albania, which make for a gruelling read. It's a relief afterwards to explore the art gallery that awaits near the bunker's exit ( Where to eat What do you mean, you've never had Albanian cuisine before? For the uninitiated, it's a palate-pleasing mixture of Ottoman and Greek influences (which makes sense, given that Crete is a mere half-hour boat ride from the Albanian coast). Top of the list of places to go is Mullixhiu. Situated in the buzzy area around the huge Grand Park (which is worth a stroll in itself), Mullixhiu specialises in delivering local flavours at surprisingly decent price points. When we went, a six course tasting menu cost 3000 lek, or around £30 – not bad, especially considering the plates upon plates of qifqi (fried rice balls), delicate fish and traditional soups we were served ( For a more interactive experience, Oda Garden by the new bazaar is a hidden gem. When I visited, there was a fun mix of locals and tourists, as well as a live band playing Albanian music (which resulted in an impromptu conga line around the restaurant). On offer is local beer, huge plates of kofte, roast lamb, fasule (bean stew) and dolma: hearty and delicious fare ( And if travellers want something a bit more ritzy, there's Lift. This steak restaurant doubles as a rooftop bar and does some mean cocktails — as well as being pretty much the best place in the city to eat meat. Plus, the view (from the top floor of one of the city's skyscrapers) is unmatched ( Where to drink Tirana has a booming café culture and locals have a deep love of coffee, often nursing one cup of espresso over an afternoon as they chat with friends. To try some of the best, head to n'Dritëro — a bookshop, and homage to the celebrated writer Dritëro Agolli that doubles up as a café. There's also Antigua Specialty Coffee in the Blloku area, which serves an excellent cup — something the café's legions of remote workers clearly know all about ( The Nordic-inspired bakery Noje is also a must-try: not only does it look incredibly chic, but it also serves an excellent pistachio croissant ( For those in need of something a bit stiffer, Spy offers a fun blend of high-end cocktails with an in-the-know touch ( Styled as an American speakeasy, the bar awaits down a simple set of stairs. Booking on the website will give you the entry code; in addition to the menu of classic cocktails, the bartender is a whizz at concocting new drinks on the fly (I duly put him through his paces and the results were delicious). Also worth a mention is Nouvelle Vague ( a coffee shop during the day that morphs into a high-concept cocktail bar at night. Drawing inspiration from the 1950's French film movement, the interior is plush and cosy, and the menu pleasingly full of puns: one of its rum cocktails, Rum si unë, is a take on the Albanian saying 'Lum si unë,' – which means 'Lucky me!' In need of some more? If you're willing to experiment, Radio Bar is both cosy and fun ( Located near the Grand Park, it serves a fun selection of cocktails in a retro, colourful interior — as well as shots of the local, potent spirit, raki. Where to stay A city that's primarily beloved by backpackers, Tirana doesn't offer a whole lot in terms of high-end accommodation. If you'd rather not stay in a hostel (though the Bearded Dad is always a good shout and offers separate rooms; there is the Arté Boutique Hotel. The rooms are chic and minimalist, but the location is the main appeal: it's in the heart of the city, and near some of its best restaurants ( If you want to spend a little more then the Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel is suitably awe-inspiring. Located a 10-minute walk from the city centre, the palatial interiors give onto plush bedrooms with four-poster beds and balconies with views over the city. Even better, rooms start from £150 (

Yahoo

2 days ago

Yahoo

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Hear the word Albania and you probably picture gorgeous ocean views, Mediterranean sunsets or Dua Lipa's Instagram feed. It's why people heading to this underrated Mediterranean country are usually in search of its gorgeous rocky coast and find themselves speeding through the capital, Tirana. It's not seen as a destination in itself, with most people only spending a night there before jetting off to the southern seaside escapes of Sarandë and Ksamil. This is a shame, because anybody who finds themselves in Tirana for any length of time will discover a city currently undergoing an extraordinary transformation. Freed from five decades of dictatorship and economic stagnation, investment is now pouring into the Albanian capital, leaving fascinating new buildings, restaurants and cafes in its wake. With a growing foodie scene, a complex history and laid-back attitude, Tirana rewards the traveller who takes the time to explore it properly. Here's how to get under the skin of this buzzing city. Sightseeing galore Albania isn't a nation that's had much experience of independence. It was conquered first by the Ottomans (and occupied for 400 years); then, once they disappeared in the aftermath of the First World War, the Germans and Italians moved in during the Second. After that, the Albanian army general Enver Hoxha (backed by the USSR) swept to power on a wave of populist enthusiasm in the late 1940s. In a depressingly predictable twist, he then became a ruthless dictator, who brutally quashed all forms of dissent, sent rebels to concentration camps and plunged the country into decades of gruelling poverty. As a result, not much of Tirana's old city survives; much of it was levelled in a frenzy of Communist and Brutalist enthusiasm. However, glimpses are still visible, especially around Skanderbeg square in the capital's heart. To see them all, hopping on a free walking tour is always a good option (book in advance on It's also well suited for solo travellers. In addition to the modernist opera house that frames the edge of the square, do also head to the ancient mosque, Et'hem Bey, that sits next to it. Built by the Ottomans in the 1700s, it's a beautiful, simple bit of architecture framed by a clock tower on one side and the broad square on the other. From there, head onwards through the old streets to the new bazaar, which sells tourist trinkets and woven rugs as well as fruit and veg, and make time to wander up through Rruga Murat Toptani towards the old castle. Much of it was levelled by the Communists, but the remains have been stuffed with shops and are a nice place to sit and drink a coffee. One of the nicest things about Tirana is how much thought has been put into its revitalisation. It is not bland, soulless and full of skyscrapers like many modern cities; instead, architects have been commissioned from around the world to build quirky towers that add an interesting new dimension to the skyline. Check out the Skandarbeg tower near the main square as an example of that: built by Dutch studio MVRDV, its waves and curves, when viewed from the right angle, form a portrait of Albania's national hero, Skander. Relics of Hoxha are also visible around the capital in the form of the ostentatious pyramid designed by his daughter Pranvera as a shrine to her deceased father's memory. Pleasingly, these days it's home to a youth training centre; the steps on the outside can also be climbed, offering great views at the top. There are also the tiny, two-man bunkers Hoxha had installed around the capital (and the country) in the event of an invasion that never came, and his old house is now a museum in the Blloku neighbourhood. For people that really want to learn more about Hoxha's dictatorship, there's also Bunk'Art. Situated in an old government underground bunker (which was built in the event of nuclear war), it's impressive in scale: set over five stories. It has more than 100 different rooms, some of which have been mocked up to demonstrate how they would have looked under the regime. The museum itself gets into detail about the extent of police control in Albania, which make for a gruelling read. It's a relief afterwards to explore the art gallery that awaits near the bunker's exit ( Where to eat What do you mean, you've never had Albanian cuisine before? For the uninitiated, it's a palate-pleasing mixture of Ottoman and Greek influences (which makes sense, given that Crete is a mere half-hour boat ride from the Albanian coast). Top of the list of places to go is Mullixhiu. Situated in the buzzy area around the huge Grand Park (which is worth a stroll in itself), Mullixhiu specialises in delivering local flavours at surprisingly decent price points. When we went, a six course tasting menu cost 3000 lek, or around £30 – not bad, especially considering the plates upon plates of qifqi (fried rice balls), delicate fish and traditional soups we were served ( For a more interactive experience, Oda Garden by the new bazaar is a hidden gem. When I visited, there was a fun mix of locals and tourists, as well as a live band playing Albanian music (which resulted in an impromptu conga line around the restaurant). On offer is local beer, huge plates of kofte, roast lamb, fasule (bean stew) and dolma: hearty and delicious fare ( And if travellers want something a bit more ritzy, there's Lift. This steak restaurant doubles as a rooftop bar and does some mean cocktails — as well as being pretty much the best place in the city to eat meat. Plus, the view (from the top floor of one of the city's skyscrapers) is unmatched ( Where to drink Tirana has a booming café culture and locals have a deep love of coffee, often nursing one cup of espresso over an afternoon as they chat with friends. To try some of the best, head to n'Dritëro — a bookshop, and homage to the celebrated writer Dritëro Agolli that doubles up as a café. There's also Antigua Specialty Coffee in the Blloku area, which serves an excellent cup — something the café's legions of remote workers clearly know all about ( The Nordic-inspired bakery Noje is also a must-try: not only does it look incredibly chic, but it also serves an excellent pistachio croissant ( For those in need of something a bit stiffer, Spy offers a fun blend of high-end cocktails with an in-the-know touch ( Styled as an American speakeasy, the bar awaits down a simple set of stairs. Booking on the website will give you the entry code; in addition to the menu of classic cocktails, the bartender is a whizz at concocting new drinks on the fly (I duly put him through his paces and the results were delicious). Also worth a mention is Nouvelle Vague ( a coffee shop during the day that morphs into a high-concept cocktail bar at night. Drawing inspiration from the 1950's French film movement, the interior is plush and cosy, and the menu pleasingly full of puns: one of its rum cocktails, Rum si unë, is a take on the Albanian saying 'Lum si unë,' – which means 'Lucky me!' In need of some more? If you're willing to experiment, Radio Bar is both cosy and fun ( Located near the Grand Park, it serves a fun selection of cocktails in a retro, colourful interior — as well as shots of the local, potent spirit, raki. Where to stay A city that's primarily beloved by backpackers, Tirana doesn't offer a whole lot in terms of high-end accommodation. If you'd rather not stay in a hostel (though the Bearded Dad is always a good shout and offers separate rooms; there is the Arté Boutique Hotel. The rooms are chic and minimalist, but the location is the main appeal: it's in the heart of the city, and near some of its best restaurants ( If you want to spend a little more then the Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel is suitably awe-inspiring. Located a 10-minute walk from the city centre, the palatial interiors give onto plush bedrooms with four-poster beds and balconies with views over the city. Even better, rooms start from £150 (

Dominica's waterfalls and rainforest beckon the adventurous

USA Today

2 days ago

USA Today

Dominica's waterfalls and rainforest beckon the adventurous

As Jade Agboton slides off the boat into the calm ocean water, her heart is pounding; there are three whales on the surface just 30 feet away rolling onto their sides to take a snooze. Soon enough, they are all in the vertical position, like floating totem poles. She takes in a gulp of air at the surface and dives down to get a better look. That's when she realizes there's a fourth whale who is very much awake and making a beeline toward her. It approaches so quickly she has to swim fast to get out of its way. 'When I finally made eye contact with him, I felt as small and insignificant as this tiny eye on its massive body,' Agboton recalls. Overwhelming to say the least. But such encounters are not a once-in-a-lifetime occurrence in Dominica. Sperm whales live and breed off the coast of the Caribbean nation all year long. And humpbacks swing by from December to March, so whale sightings are quite common. Add to that eagle rays, turtles, eels and sardines, and Agboton is in heaven. Not surprisingly, that deep passion for all things oceanic is what prompted her to move to Soufrière — where the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean — about a year ago. Before that, though, she didn't know Dominica (pronounced Dom-in-EEK-a) existed. That's still the case for many North Americans. 'I think some of the other Caribbean destinations like Antigua tend to get more media coverage and perhaps have that instant appeal because of the white sand and palm tree type image,' says Alex Outhwaite, a travel TV host based in London. 'Dominica is a bit more rugged, and the terrain is slightly different, but I actually think that's a big draw.' Emerald vegetation, black sand Agboton lives near UNESCO world heritage site Soufrière-Scotts Head Marine Reserve, an almost 500-foot-deep pool inside a submerged volcanic crater. Protected from the waves, the water is often calm and clear, making it the perfect spot for snorkeling, free diving and scuba diving. But the ocean is not the island's only appeal. Two-thirds of Dominica is covered in rain forest and 20 percent of the land is within the national park system. Not to mention, there are nine volcanoes, 365 rivers, black-sand beaches and hot springs galore. Among Agboton's favorite places are Trafalgar Falls and Boiling Lake in Morne Trois Pitons National Park. The lake, once a volcanic crater, is now one of the largest bodies of hot water in the world. Equally compelling is the 115-mile-long Waitukubuli National Trail, where you can pick a section that suits your ability. Here it's not uncommon to find colorful parrots, including the Jaco and Sisserou, broad-tailed hawks and four species of native hummingbirds. 'I was delighted with how lush and green Dominica is,' says Outhwaite. 'I guess that's partly why they call it the Nature Isle.' For an easy trek, the 100-foot Syndicate Falls is a solid option with minimal elevation gain and the reward of getting to swim and picnic once you get there. Scotts Head at the southwestern end of the island is equally accessible and offers a sweeping view of the island. Agboton also recommends kayaking the sea trail. 'It's a nice way to discover the island,' she says. 'In Soufrière we take kayaks or paddle boards and go from Scott's Head to Champagne reef. The whole trail from south to north on the Caribbean coast can be done in one day for experienced kayakers.' Where to Stay Secret Bay Resort, named four times by Travel + Leisure as the best resort in the Caribbean, is spread out among 50 acres. Arrive in dramatic fashion via the funicular. Living spaces include an upscale kitchen, private plunge pool and sweeping ocean views. Make time for a guided paddle to Secret Beach to see a hidden sea cave. Fort Young Hotel, a boutique hotel in Roseau, is ideal for water-based adventure. The house reef is perfect for snorkeling and standup paddling. There's a dive center on site with easy access to some of the top dives sites and the hotel can arrange for you to go swimming with sperm whales. Jungle Bay Dominica, an eco-luxe hotel in Soufrière, draws wellness enthusiasts thanks to its spa, yoga classes and holistic offerings. It's also home to tropical fruits, herbs and vegetables, which guests are encouraged to harvest.

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Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Dominica's waterfalls and rainforest beckon the adventurous

Cria Launches Ultimate 5-Day Tour Itinerary Showcasing Albania's UNESCO Jewels

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Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Dominica's waterfalls and rainforest beckon the adventurous

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