Temple cuisine: Meal away from distraction or desire

Korea Herald

04-05-2025

Balwoo Gongyang transforms monastic meal principles into a multi-course fine dining experience.
In a city celebrated for its bold, spicy street food and electric culinary energy, Balwoo Gongyang offers something different: a meal of silence, simplicity and spiritual depth.
Located directly across from the historic Jogyesa Temple in southeastern Seoul, Balwoo Gongyang is the only temple food specialty restaurant in South Korea operated by the Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism — and it serves Korean temple food refined over centuries.
'Balwoo Gongyang' is the name of a traditional Korean Buddhist meal ritual, combining 'Balwoo' — the monk's set of wooden or lacquered bowls — and 'Gongyang,' meaning offering or meal. This practice embodies mindful, ritualized eating within the monastic tradition.
Since earning a Michelin star for three consecutive years (2017–2019) and being selected for the prestigious Blue Ribbon Survey in 2023 and 2024, Balwoo Gongyang has remained one of Seoul's most revered destinations for conscious dining.
For those unfamiliar, Korean temple food is entirely plant-based and prepared without five pungent ingredients — garlic, green onion, leek, wild chives and asafoetida — which are believed to distract the mind and inflame passions. It also forgoes artificial seasonings, animal products and stimulants.
What remains is deceptively simple fare, made from seasonal ingredients, fermented sauces aged up to 20 years and preparation techniques passed down from monastic kitchens. At Balwoo Gongyang, these principles are elevated into a multi-course fine dining experience.
A meal of meaning
The restaurant offers four prix fixe course options designed to suit different levels of appetite and interest: the Seon (Meditation) Course, priced at 36,000 won ($25.00), the Won (Vow) Course, at 50,000 won; the Maeum (Mind) Course, at 70,000 won; and the most elaborate Hee (Joy) Course, at 120,000 won.
The Won Course, a seven-part culinary meditation, introduces a wide range of temple flavors and textures.
The meal began with Suljuksim, an amuse-bouche whose name translates to "moistening the mouth" or "moistening the spoon." A single cherry tomato marinated in fermented Korean fruit syrup delivered a subtle sweetness, cleansing the palate without overwhelming it. Next came the Bangpung-namul juk, a siler root porridge traditionally served as breakfast in temples. On its own, the porridge was nearly tasteless, but when paired with the third course, Sangmi, consisting of three cold seasonal dishes, its role was clear.
One of the three cold seasonal dishes, bomnamul-geotjeori (fresh spring green salad), had a distinct bitterness that could challenge unaccustomed palates. Meanwhile, cheongpomuk, a mung bean jelly mixed with seaweed and greens, offered nutty and savory notes that paired beautifully with the porridge. A perilla-seed braise was soft with a mushy texture and slightly bitter aftertaste.
The fourth course Dammi (hot preparations) and the fifth course Seongso (noodle dish) were served together. The standout was cold shiitake mushroom naengmyeon, served with julienned pear. The dish was subtly spicy, slightly sweet and aromatic — its flavors enhanced by a delicate umami from the mushrooms. Guests are advised to eat it quickly before the noodles bloat.
Other items in this round included grilled tofu, rich and nutty with a slight crisp on the outside, and temple-style mandu, filled with finely chopped vegetables. The mandu was a bit dry, though flavorful, with earthy mushroom notes. A crunchy lotus root pickle added brightness, while burdock root stir-fry seemed included more for its health properties than taste. But the dish that stole the show was the deep-fried mushroom gangjeong, coated in a sweet gochujang glaze — rich, chewy and deeply satisfying without losing its grounding simplicity.
The main course, or Youmi, was the most traditionally 'meal-like' part of the progression. Sticky lotus-leaf rice revealed ginkgo nuts and pine nuts inside, each bite fragrant with the aroma of the lotus. Alongside were two types of spring greens, one of which proved too bitter to enjoy fully, and a soybean paste soup with cabbage, mild and comforting. The temple-style kimchi, made without fish sauce or fermented shrimp, was crisp, clean and salad-like. The radish kimchi, however, was deeply pungent and might be difficult for first-timers.
Ipgasim, or dessert, arrived in the form of basak-gangjeong, traditional rice snacks that were light, crispy and just sweet enough. A warm cup of wild magnolia blossom tea concluded the experience with floral, meditative aromas that evoked the peaceful stillness of a Buddhist shrine.
Sacred in setting
Balwoo Gongyang's setting is as integral to the experience as its food. The restaurant is quiet and intimate, with private rooms available for all guests, offering a serene and exclusive environment ideal for focused conversation or personal reflection. Servers wear traditional hanbok and explain each dish in calm, respectful tones. English explanations are available, making it accessible for international visitors as well.
Due to the restaurant's popularity even on weekdays and during cultural events such as Buddha's Birthday on May 5, reservations are essential. Its proximity to Jogyesa Temple makes it the perfect stop before or after a temple visit.
The experience at Balwoo Gongyang may challenge expectations — some dishes are intentionally bland, bitter or texturally unusual — but for those seeking to discover more about Korean Buddhist culture, or simply to slow down and reflect, it provides a memorable and contemplative journey.