Dubai: Can sustainable fashion really be considered luxury? Couturier Anita Dongre weighs in

Khaleej Times

06-03-2025

In the world of high fashion, where luxury traditionally equates to extravagance, the challenge of marrying sustainability with opulence has often sparked debate. Traditionally, luxury fashion has prioritised rich materials and elaborate processes, overlooking the environmental cost. However, renowned Indian couturier Anita Dongre is challenging this norm by proving that sustainable practices can coexist with luxury. Her designs, celebrated for their craftsmanship, are envisioned as heirlooms — beautifully crafted to withstand the test of time.
Since launching her first brand in 1995 from her apartment balcony, the House Of Anita Dongre has grown its vision of blending contemporary fashion with Asian sensibilities into a global powerhouse. With a workforce of more than 2,000 people, and an annual turnover of $60 million (Dh220 million), her company supports thousands of artisans and maintains a significant presence in markets like Dubai and New York.
Ultimately, Dongre's approach shows that true luxury incorporates sustainability, making each piece not only a fashion statement but also a proof of ethical practices. Her work exudes luxury, proving that the real value of high-end fashion also lies in its ability to be sustainable, ethically made and long lasting, and at some point has contributed towards betterment of society.
We caught up with the designer, who spoke about adopting sustainable practices while maintaining a brand's luxury status, and launching a second store in Dubai, which is known for its consumption of all-things-luxury. Excerpts from the interview:
While the fashion industry is still far from fully sustainable, the last decade has seen significant progress. The shift is ongoing, with sustainability increasingly seen as a necessity rather than a luxury within the industry. How does House Of Anita Dongre contribute to being one step closer to sustainability?
Sustainability is something I hold close to my heart, and I see it from two main perspectives. The first is material sustainability, focusing on the resources we use. The second, and equally important, is social sustainability, which centres on people and the planet. That's all it is really, people and the planet. In our efforts to promote social sustainability, we've made a conscious decision to root our work in the villages of India. This approach not only supports the local craftsmen in their natural environments but also prevents the need for them to migrate to cities in search of work. By providing jobs locally, especially for women, we help strengthen entire families. Women tend to invest their income wisely, using it to nurture their children and manage their households.
On the material front, we're constantly in collaboration with various companies to discover and use more sustainable materials. For instance, we've partnered with companies like Lenzing and opted for modal for our bags instead of leather, because modal is biodegradable. Moreover, we're excited about a new partnership with an innovative company in India that's developing a biodegradable material with a leather-like feel. Questioning every aspect of our production process and striving for better materials is an ongoing journey. While complete sustainability might be a lofty goal, the path of mindful creation is one we tread diligently. We operate from an environmentally friendly building in Navi Mumbai, which reflects our commitment to sustainability. Every step we take is a step towards a better planet, and it's a responsibility I take very seriously.
The biggest fashion debate of all time: Can something be a luxury brand or an item and still be sustainable? If someone were to ask you this for House Of Anita Dongre, how do you strike that balance?
For me, sustainability means creating something that lasts — for a long time. When I design garments, my goal is to craft timeless pieces. I focus on creating designs that are not just classic, but heirlooms; treasures that a mother would be proud to pass down to her daughter. This philosophy reflects what we hear from our customers too — they rarely, if ever, part with our garments. Quality is key. When you incorporate exquisite hand craftsmanship into a design, it becomes more than just clothing; it becomes a piece to be worn carefully, mindfully cherished, and eventually, lovingly passed on. This cycle of reuse inherently enhances sustainability. A garment that's worn repeatedly over the years doesn't just stay out of the landfill — it carries stories, memories, and lessens the burden on our planet. And ofcourse it stays out of the landfill.
Indeed, a brand can be sustainable — it's by fostering this ethos of longevity. Our designs aren't just for one season; they're meant to be worn many, many times and to be a staple in your wardrobe for years to come. This approach counters the cycle of buy-and-dispose that leads to so much waste, making a real difference in our quest for sustainability.
For individuals who may not appreciate the concept of heirloom-quality, handcrafted garments and question the notion of sustainable products as luxury, how accessible are your designs to them?
Any investment in a special occasion outfit, particularly one that's costly, must embody exceptional quality and enduring appeal. Why should it be otherwise? Each piece is handmade, stunningly beautiful, and designed to remain a cherished favourite in your wardrobe for years. It's crafted to be treasured and enjoyed every time it's worn, a bow to the art of fashion. Beyond mere durability, the craftsmanship itself is so exquisite that it justifies the investment. These creations are intended to be passed down through generations, becoming heirlooms that carry personal histories and cherished memories. For those unfamiliar with this concept, the intrinsic beauty of the craft and the depth of thought behind each piece might well be the elements that bridge their understanding.
What is the essence of your brand rooted in, global or Indian?
The essence of my brand is rooted in craftsmanship, primarily Indian. However, I'm very open to exploring collaborations with craft clusters from other regions. For instance, I would be thrilled to work with artisans in the UAE. This approach allows us to celebrate and integrate diverse traditions and techniques into our collections.
As a creative human and a business-driven person, did you ever crave international recognition? How far did you want to go?
Even as a young girl fresh out of fashion school, as I travelled the world, I always wondered why there wasn't a globally recognised Indian fashion brand. I recall seeing brands like Shyam Ahuja, 1963 in the US and thinking about the absence of a global Indian presence in fashion. From the beginning, I aspired to take my brand international. That aspiration became a reality when we expanded to New York six years ago. Then we opened our store in Dubai Mall's fashion avenue in 2023; back then we were the first and only Indian fashion brand to open a store there. It was not by chance but a deliberate step towards fulfilling what I had always envisioned.
What is next for the House Of Anita Dongre, and is there a message you would like to give to youth?
I enjoy impacting lives with my work, whether it's the maker or the wearer's life. We just want to continue doing the same, and more of it. We want to continue doing everything better than what we do today. What's the message I'd give to the youth? To just be happy and live mindfully.
The expansion of House Of Anita Dongre into the UAE market culminates with the opening of its second store at Mirdif City Centre, following their inaugural launch at The Dubai Mall in 2023.