This ancient East European brew repurposes leftover bread

SBS Australia

22-04-2025

It is unmistakable – Aussies love an ice-cold beer, whatever the season, and now as non-alcoholic and low-ABV beverages become ever more popular, we are seeing an increasing number of interesting drinks inspired from different corners of the world joining the brewing fray. One such beverage is the naturally fermented drink called . With roots dating back to ancient times, many countries in Northeastern Europe continue to drink kvass. Now after centuries of quenching the thirst of Lithuanians, Estonians and Latvians, kvass is finally making its way to Australia with both bakers and craft brewers making their own versions.
'Kvass is a non-alcoholic fermented drink, locally known as gira in Lithuania, that has been enjoyed in most Central and Eastern European countries for centuries,' says Mindaugas Bistrickas, Head of Production at Gubernija Brewery, one of the largest distributors of kvass in Lithuania. 'In Lithuania, the earliest written bread kvass recipes date back to the early 19th century. However, the recipe itself originated much earlier, before it was documented.' Akin to kombucha, kvass shows similar characteristics to the popular and internationally recognised lactobacillus drink and is slowly getting recognised as a healthier alternative to some other brews with breweries in the UK, US and now Australia making their own versions of it. However, kvass different from kombucha both in terms of process and ingredients. While kombucha requires SCOBY to get the fermentation processes going, kvass usually relies on leftover bread to do the microbial work. According to Tadas Eidukevičius, chef and owner of Demoloftas, a popular restaurant in Vilnius, this is deeply Lithuanian. 'In Lithuania, bread holds a special place in our culture. Our elders have a deep respect for it, a tradition born from times when food was scarce. Nothing was wasted. That's why the most traditional kvass is made from roasted, dried rye bread leftovers,' he says.
Like many historical dishes and drinks, the exact history of who invented kvass is a bit unclear. However, from the earliest known reference, , it is clear that it has roots from the Slavs, says Dr. Tony Brown, author of . While Russia, Poland and all the Baltic countries have versions of kvass, one thing is for sure – it is deeply rooted in all of these cultures and remains a cherished tradition which is not fizzing away anytime soon. Eidukevičius has many fond memories watching his grandmother brew her famous gira and sharing them with friends and family.
In Lithuania, bread holds a special place in our culture. 'I remember how my grandma would brew at least 50-litres at one time and then call neighbours, friends and family to our house. Everyone would bring their own gira jug and together we would enjoy it under our family's apple trees sharing stories and laughing,' he reminisces. 'In Lithuania, we eat fermented products every day. Most people don't even think about it. Gira, is a naturally fermented drink and something us Lithuanians all know well and drink to this day,' explains and author of Natural Fermented Foods Ieva Šidlaitė.
If you have ever tried making your own brew at home, you wouldn't be surprised that kvass involves malted or grain bread because just like a simple beer recipe, the exact same raw materials are used like barley, wheat and rye – all of which are found in a humble loaf of bread. Historically speaking, the practice of making beer out of bread dates back more than to when Mesopotamians made beer.
However, 'Kvass is not a direct substitute for beer, although it may share some similarities in taste,' says Bistrickas. 'The major differences that set beer and kvass apart include the raw materials used, such as hops (which are not used in kvass production) and malt (kvass is primarily produced from bread or malt extract). Additionally, the production time for kvass is much shorter than that of beer, taking about one-fifth the time.' 'Kvass does not need to contain alcohol; although, it may. Some homemade or craft varieties may contain small amounts of alcohol as a result of the fermentation process. In our case, less than 0.45 per cent alcohol is maintained in production, making it a non-alcoholic drink,' he adds.
Australia's passion for beer has no doubt resulted in more alcoholic versions of kvass than those found in Lithuania – usually close to 5 per cent ABV. And, since the main ingredient for kvass is bread, bakeries and breweries have come together to produce some very interesting blends in Australia – no doubt spurred by a growing interest in sustainable alternatives and . in South Australia started brewing their own kvass a couple of years ago in collaboration with a nearby bread shop, Small World bakery where more than 60-kilograms of sliced sourdough were toasted before being thrown into the top of a mash to create a toasty kvass. Similarly, worked with AP Bakery in Merrickville, NSW to create a 'hoppy kvass-inspired ale' which also included native flowers from NSW. 'Over 150 reduced bread loaves from A.P bakery were used to produce a toasty, vanilla-scented and floral ale,' the brewers say.
As a limited edition, collaborated with Capital Brewing Co. in Canberra. 'More than 20 kilograms of our rye sourdough and some bread culture were taken over to Capital Brewing Co. brewery where we broke them down, left to ferment and mature to produce a toasty, sour brew for the summer,' says a representative from Three Mills Bakery. The kvass is then used to make other baked goods like a poached peach danish which is poached in kvass beer, and also the uniquely Aussie strawberry gum and lemon myrtle pastry, truly closing the loop. As kvass catches on in popularity here in Australia, the inevitable question is – how does one enjoy this refreshing drink? 'The best way to truly appreciate kvass is to chill it until it's almost frosty,' says Eidukevičius, 'It pairs incredibly well with a simple sandwich filled with or fish which allows the smoky flavors to complement the drink's earthy notes.'
Watch now
Share this with family and friends