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SBS Australia
22-04-2025
- Health
- SBS Australia
This ancient East European brew repurposes leftover bread
It is unmistakable – Aussies love an ice-cold beer, whatever the season, and now as non-alcoholic and low-ABV beverages become ever more popular, we are seeing an increasing number of interesting drinks inspired from different corners of the world joining the brewing fray. One such beverage is the naturally fermented drink called . With roots dating back to ancient times, many countries in Northeastern Europe continue to drink kvass. Now after centuries of quenching the thirst of Lithuanians, Estonians and Latvians, kvass is finally making its way to Australia with both bakers and craft brewers making their own versions. 'Kvass is a non-alcoholic fermented drink, locally known as gira in Lithuania, that has been enjoyed in most Central and Eastern European countries for centuries,' says Mindaugas Bistrickas, Head of Production at Gubernija Brewery, one of the largest distributors of kvass in Lithuania. 'In Lithuania, the earliest written bread kvass recipes date back to the early 19th century. However, the recipe itself originated much earlier, before it was documented.' Akin to kombucha, kvass shows similar characteristics to the popular and internationally recognised lactobacillus drink and is slowly getting recognised as a healthier alternative to some other brews with breweries in the UK, US and now Australia making their own versions of it. However, kvass different from kombucha both in terms of process and ingredients. While kombucha requires SCOBY to get the fermentation processes going, kvass usually relies on leftover bread to do the microbial work. According to Tadas Eidukevičius, chef and owner of Demoloftas, a popular restaurant in Vilnius, this is deeply Lithuanian. 'In Lithuania, bread holds a special place in our culture. Our elders have a deep respect for it, a tradition born from times when food was scarce. Nothing was wasted. That's why the most traditional kvass is made from roasted, dried rye bread leftovers,' he says. Like many historical dishes and drinks, the exact history of who invented kvass is a bit unclear. However, from the earliest known reference, , it is clear that it has roots from the Slavs, says Dr. Tony Brown, author of . While Russia, Poland and all the Baltic countries have versions of kvass, one thing is for sure – it is deeply rooted in all of these cultures and remains a cherished tradition which is not fizzing away anytime soon. Eidukevičius has many fond memories watching his grandmother brew her famous gira and sharing them with friends and family. In Lithuania, bread holds a special place in our culture. 'I remember how my grandma would brew at least 50-litres at one time and then call neighbours, friends and family to our house. Everyone would bring their own gira jug and together we would enjoy it under our family's apple trees sharing stories and laughing,' he reminisces. 'In Lithuania, we eat fermented products every day. Most people don't even think about it. Gira, is a naturally fermented drink and something us Lithuanians all know well and drink to this day,' explains and author of Natural Fermented Foods Ieva Šidlaitė. If you have ever tried making your own brew at home, you wouldn't be surprised that kvass involves malted or grain bread because just like a simple beer recipe, the exact same raw materials are used like barley, wheat and rye – all of which are found in a humble loaf of bread. Historically speaking, the practice of making beer out of bread dates back more than to when Mesopotamians made beer. However, 'Kvass is not a direct substitute for beer, although it may share some similarities in taste,' says Bistrickas. 'The major differences that set beer and kvass apart include the raw materials used, such as hops (which are not used in kvass production) and malt (kvass is primarily produced from bread or malt extract). Additionally, the production time for kvass is much shorter than that of beer, taking about one-fifth the time.' 'Kvass does not need to contain alcohol; although, it may. Some homemade or craft varieties may contain small amounts of alcohol as a result of the fermentation process. In our case, less than 0.45 per cent alcohol is maintained in production, making it a non-alcoholic drink,' he adds. Australia's passion for beer has no doubt resulted in more alcoholic versions of kvass than those found in Lithuania – usually close to 5 per cent ABV. And, since the main ingredient for kvass is bread, bakeries and breweries have come together to produce some very interesting blends in Australia – no doubt spurred by a growing interest in sustainable alternatives and . in South Australia started brewing their own kvass a couple of years ago in collaboration with a nearby bread shop, Small World bakery where more than 60-kilograms of sliced sourdough were toasted before being thrown into the top of a mash to create a toasty kvass. Similarly, worked with AP Bakery in Merrickville, NSW to create a 'hoppy kvass-inspired ale' which also included native flowers from NSW. 'Over 150 reduced bread loaves from A.P bakery were used to produce a toasty, vanilla-scented and floral ale,' the brewers say. As a limited edition, collaborated with Capital Brewing Co. in Canberra. 'More than 20 kilograms of our rye sourdough and some bread culture were taken over to Capital Brewing Co. brewery where we broke them down, left to ferment and mature to produce a toasty, sour brew for the summer,' says a representative from Three Mills Bakery. The kvass is then used to make other baked goods like a poached peach danish which is poached in kvass beer, and also the uniquely Aussie strawberry gum and lemon myrtle pastry, truly closing the loop. As kvass catches on in popularity here in Australia, the inevitable question is – how does one enjoy this refreshing drink? 'The best way to truly appreciate kvass is to chill it until it's almost frosty,' says Eidukevičius, 'It pairs incredibly well with a simple sandwich filled with or fish which allows the smoky flavors to complement the drink's earthy notes.' Watch now Share this with family and friends
BBC News
15-03-2025
- BBC News
Lithuania's fermented drink to ward off a cold
Sweet, tangy and packed with probiotics, gira has long been a go-to winter tonic – and is now making a comeback in craft breweries and kombucha-style artisanal brands. When Tadas Eidukevičius was crafting his latest winter menu at Demoloftas in Vilnius, Lithuania, the Michelin-starred chef turned to an unassuming staple: the turnip. But rather than deconstructing the simple ingredient beyond recognition, Eidukevičiusd slow-roasted and lightly smoked the root vegetable before serving it with gira, Lithuania's traditional fermented beverage. "I wanted to create a dish that highlights the traditions of Lithuania on a plate, and using gira to make the glaze brought so many flavours together without over-complicating things – it was a no brainer," says Eidukevičius. "The gira adds acid, sweetness and a pleasant tang, which gives more complexity to the otherwise simple vegetable." While Eidukevičius' creative approach no doubt helped capture the attention of Michelin inspectors, gira remains largely absent from Lithuania's fine-dining scene. Instead, the naturally fermented drink is a household staple, enjoyed chilled in summer or as a soothing remedy for a sore throat. Once brewed in homes out of necessity – particularly during Soviet times when things were scarce – in recent years, its increased popularity has led it to be mass produced and sold by the can in soft-drink aisles of supermarkets and corner shops throughout the country. Dating back to ancient times, gira is more commonly known as kvass across north-eastern Europe where it can be made with grains, fruits or vegetables, and is widely popular in Baltic and Slavic countries where fermentation traditions run deep. "Traditionally, [in Lithuania] it was a homemade drink using old rye bread because it was a smart way to use up leftovers," says Tomas Josas, a beer historian and 2023 beer sommelier champion of Lithuania who grew up drinking his grandparents' homebrewed gira. "Fermentation not only preserved nutrients but also lowered the pH, killing harmful bacteria – meaning kvass was often safer to drink than water." A traditional recipe involves soaking toasted or dried-out rye bread in hot water to extract the flavour. Once cooled, yeast and maybe sugar in the form of raisins are added to kickstart the natural fermentation process. It is then cooled, strained and bottled, to be consumed within three to five days. The result is a slightly tart, mildly effervescent drink with an ABV of up to 1.2%, akin to traditionally brewed kombucha, and contains healthy probiotics that benefit gut health and immunity. In Lithuania, traditionalists see it as a tonic for the common cold because it can be made with honey, ginger and other herbs as an immunity booster. "When I was little, my grandmother would make gira for Easter and Christmas as a festive drink but I also remember drinking gira when I was sick – consuming it more commonly as a natural remedy," explained Ieva Šidlaitė, a cultural historian and the author of Naturally Fermented who teaches fermentation classes on her farm outside Vilnius. "In the 20th Century, when sugar was available to everyone, it became sweet," she added. "Before this time, it was completely fermented and a sour liquid without any bubbles. It was mostly used to acidify food, make soups and also sauces because in our culture, food is dominated by a sour taste." Josas agrees. "Many believed kvass was good for digestion and immunity, thanks to its probiotics. My great-grandparents made traditional homebrewed gira, very different from today's commercial versions [that are sweeter]. It had a funky, tangy flavor from lactobacillus – like sauerkraut has, but in liquid form. I wasn't a fan as a child since it lacked sugar, but once I got into beer, I learned to love its complexity," he says. The early '80s is what Josas describes as "the golden age of gira" with mobile barrels selling it on every street corner during summer. However as global soft drinks like Coke flooded the Baltic market, gira struggled to compete, losing its appeal and audience. To survive, manufacturers began mass-producing the drink using sugar for appeal and cheap malt extract to speed up the process, shifting it closer to soda than traditional fermentation. "Kvass lacks a strong identity, a clear drinking culture or an image that appeals to younger generations," says Josas, noting that while gira shares the same probiotic qualities of kombucha, it has never been "hyped" as a health drink. But things are changing, he says. Artisanal gira brands are reviving traditional methods, tapping into kombucha's success. One of Lithuania's largest producers of beer and gira is Gubernija Brewery in northern Lithuania who, despite their large-scale production, still make their gira traditionally: with black grain bread. However, the 360-year-old brewery is also adapting for modern palates. More like this:• Japan's ancient fermented 'superdrink'• The national park that draws mushroom hunters from around the world• A restorative soup made for cold season "We have created different varieties of kvass to widen our audience in the last few years," says Jogailė Čojūtė, export specialist for Gubernija Brewery. "For example, our white wheat bread gira is aimed at younger consumers who like trendy soft drinks. The taste is much milder. Another popular item we have is the dark rye bread gira with hemp and hints of lime; it is a unique and refreshing twist to our traditional recipe and proves that gira really can stand the test of time." "In 2024, we observed an 18% increase in the sales volume of owned gira brands compared to the previous year," she continues, "while export sales volume grew by 47%." Globally, interest in non-alcoholic beverages and low-ABV drinks is soaring, and kvass is catching on. In the US, breweries, bakeries and even restaurants have released their own versions of kvass with great success. Dan Woods of Beaver Brewing Company in Pennsylvania produces kvass in his nanobrewery; while at Honey's in East Williamsburg in New York, kvass made an appearance on tap. Made with chunks of toasted dark sourdough rye bread which were left to ferment, the slightly tart drink was sweetened with a touch of honey and also served as a cocktail. In Australia, a string of bakeries have collaborated with local craft breweries to make stronger alcoholic versions, such as Three Mills Bakery in the nation's capital, Canberra; while in Leeds in the UK, Northern Monk releases a seasonal kvass each year. While some international versions exceed 4% ABV, for Lithuanians, it remains a drink with cultural significance that should only be fermented to 1.2% ABV at most. "It should not be considered a direct substitute for beer," says Čojūtė. Instead, Eidukevičius says, the beauty of the unassuming drink lends itself to a nice refresher anytime of the day with its sweet, acidic, tangy and even funky taste. "Gira, for all its refreshing qualities, can be a bit of a mischievous drink," Eidukevičius adds. "There's a running joke in Lithuanian households about 'gira explosions' because it ferments in closed containers where enormous pressure can build up like a bottle of Champagne. There's nothing quite like walking into a cellar and finding gira sprayed across the walls and ceiling like some kind of fizzy, rye-bread-scented geyser. It's a testament to how alive this drink is. It's a reminder that we're working with natural processes, and sometimes, those processes have a mind of their own." So, if you find yourself in Lithuania looking for a low-alcohol beverage, consider a glass of gira. "Drinking gira is a connection to our land and to the traditions that have shaped Lithuania's culture," says Eidukevičius."It has a long tradition in my beautiful country as more than just a beverage; it's a part of our cultural heritage and a link to our ancestors' traditions." -- For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram.
