A tourist's guide to getting the best out a short break in New York

Independent

5 days ago

From the dizzying heights of One Vanderbilt, New York City unfolds beneath, a mesmerising tapestry of yellow cabs navigating twinkling lights and towering concrete.
Perched 368 metres above ground on the city's fourth-tallest skyscraper, the observation deck offers a breathtaking, if slightly unnerving, introduction to Manhattan's immense scale.
As the city marks its 400th year, its dynamic pulse is palpable, a vibrant cultural melting pot drawing people from every corner of the globe.
First established as New Amsterdam in the 1620s by Dutch colonists, the relatively small settlement grew rapidly during the 18th century following multiple waves of immigration.
Cultural amalgamation has shaped New York, a city comprised of five boroughs all with a unique history and appeal. Its most famous district is Manhattan, an area dotted with historical landmarks of a scale that produce feelings of dizzying awe.
Eager to delve into the past while discovering what the future holds, I'm visiting for a short break.
Waking up in the thick of the action
Jumping onto my hotel bed after a long flight, I turn my eyes to the window and catch a glimpse of the jewel in the crown of the skyline. Once the tallest building in the city, the Empire State Building, renowned for its distinctive art deco facade, is an emblem of New York ambition, a reminder of a time when the city represented luxury, glamour and exuberance.
A highlight of staying at the NH Collection on Madison Avenue is gazing at the remarkable views of the city. Situated in a century-old red-brick building, the hotel is a cosy haven in the heart of the action that charms with its period features and sophisticated decor. Attached to the property is Italian restaurant Serafina, which provides a relaxed setting for a buffet breakfast and a lively dining experience for the evening.
The hotel's overall design scheme is mid-century modern with little decorative flourishes that transport you back into 1950s New York – including typewriters and historical knick-knacks.
Walking and dining through time
Nearby, the High Line is a walkway that places you at eye-level with the buildings of Manhattan. The space, featuring swathes of greenery, was built on a historic freight rail line abandoned in the 1980s. As I walk through the 'park in the sky', I admire art installations and architecture, at moments catching the scent of flowers or freshly-baked bread from nearby bagel shops.
I then make my way to Chelsea Market, a centre of food and retail in the city's Meatpacking District. The High Line trains once delivered produce to the wholesale butchers of the area, which are now swathes of pungent eateries, a foodie's idea of heaven.
Opting for a more luxurious lunch, I dine at the rooftop restaurant at RH New York, another spot that boasts views of the Manhattan skyline. Mixing Mediterranean-style cuisine with American touches, the lunch menu offers grilled meats, signature salads and caviar three different ways.
Proof there's much more to the restaurant scene than chips and burgers, abcV is a plant-based restaurant from Jean-Georges Vongerichten. I visit for the evening, enjoying the clean, white aesthetic and plates of impressive vegetables. Places like this are representative of New York as a whole, welcoming the new while paying tribute to the old, with dishes influenced by the people and places who make the city what it is.
Exploring the neighbourhoods
An area of New York steeped in tradition is the Bronx. The Ramirez brothers, who run the Bronx Beer Hall, are helping to change perceptions of the borough, which was often portrayed as being dangerous in the 1980s and 1990s. Their beer hall in Arthur Avenue Retail Market welcomes both tourists and locals; old men roll cigars at the front of the venue and locals sell deli meats further back.
As the city's financial district, Manhattan offers a more polished experience compared to the Bronx, but both are equally impressive. In fact, each borough offers something unique. While Queens is known for its international food scene and arty neighbourhoods, Staten Island has a more relaxed feel to it, dressed with green spaces that act as an escape from the throng of the city. There's also Brooklyn with its trendy coffee shops and historic brownstone buildings that attract Instagram influencers looking for their next best picture.
On my last day in the city, I visit Central Park, an iconic green space that acts as an oasis within the metropolis. I recognise this park from films and TV shows; Friends, Home Alone 2, and Enchanted are just some that come to mind as I sit on a bench and eat a bagel packed to the brim with fillings.
Reflecting on my short stay, I wonder how long it would take for me to explore every brownstone building, skyscraper, bagel shop, museum and park. Wildly different in so many ways, New York also has also carved out a distinctive identity over the years. All too often, fact never lives up to fiction – but New York is just as wonderful as I hoped it would be.
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