Kumagaya

Metropolis Japan

29-05-2025

Surrounded by Tokyo's vast sprawl, it's easy to miss the rich history just north of the capital. Welcome to Kumagaya, located in the northern part of Saitama Prefecture and home to one of the Kanto region's biggest festivals. It's the birthplace of Kumagae Naozone, a famed warrior-turned-monk, whose equestrian statue graces Kumagaya Station. The city, once a trading post on the famous Nakasendo Highway, thrived as a prosperous hub of the silk industry.
These days, Kumagaya's travel credentials have been revitalized after the destruction of World War II. The city is a bonafide regional hub for central and northern Saitama serviced by the Joetsu and Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train lines, the JR Takasaki Line and the private Chichibu Main Line.
Having become a much easier jumping-off point for any number of adventure destinations, Kumagaya offers beautiful nearby nature experiences. You can go river cruising in nearby Nagatoro on the scenic Arakawa River that also runs through Kumagaya. Or go hike in the ever-popular Chichibu mountains. Image Credit: Menuma Shouden Kangi
The Uchiwa Matsuri, Saitama's largest annual festival and one of the largest in the entire Kanto region, is Kumagaya's festive claim to fame. A massive 750,000 people pour into the city in late July, completely transforming Kumagaya's usual population of 200,000. The festival dates back to 1750, but got its name about 50 years later from an early 19th-century marketing campaign. Free uchiwa (hand-held fans) were handed out to attract customers during the sapping summer heat. Coinciding with a boom in the local silk industry, the festival soon developed intense levels of energy. Merchants attempted to outdo each other in appeal and wealth with parade floats and music.
Kumagaya lies just north of the Tone, one of Japan's top three largets rivers, with the Arakawa running just south. Once a wild waterway prone to flooding, the now gentrified Arakawa is one of Japan's top 100 cherry blossom-viewing spots. With its Sakura Tsutsumi bank of 500 trees stretching out for over 2km, it's easy to see why. The Arakawa also plays a central role in Kumagaya's festival culture. Almost half a million people gather to witness the spectacular Kumagaya Fireworks Festival every second Saturday in August. With over 10,000 fireworks lighting the sky, Kumagaya proudly shows its love for festivals and welcoming visitors. Cherry blossom trees are in bloom at Kumagaya Sakura Tsutsumi.
A more sedate experience can be had within the expansive grounds of the Menuma Shodenzan Kangi-in Temple. Established in the 12th century by Lord Sanemori, the temple underwent a facelift five hundred years later. Master builder Hayashi Masakiyo began work on the main building, and his efforts resulted in the temple becoming Saitama Prefecture's first National Treasure. The level of detailed craftsmanship has to be seen to be believed. Each carving is animated through life-like detail and features various stories, including adults strategizing over traditional games, children playing with toys and even sumo wrestlers doing what they do best. The work is stunning and rivals that of any other temple or shrine in Japan, even going so far as to be nicknamed the 'Nikko of Saitama.'
In contrast to its festive extravagance, the cuisine of Kumagaya is a much simpler affair. Udon noodles, made from Kumagaya-grown wheat, are highly prized, while a most humble offering is the signature dish of the Menuma Shodenzan Temple, inari zushi . Made from vinegared rice and pickled vegetables wrapped in deep-fried tofu, the temple's inari zushi is much larger than the usual variety and keeps to a non-meat Buddhist ethos. Kumagaya is also known for tripe, the internal organs of pork and beef. Grilled and served with a strong sauce, tripe is a popular street stall evening snack. Gokabo is the Kumagaya confectionery of choice. Made using techniques carried over from the Edo period, these soybean powder and rice rolls are a classic rustic delight.
As a hub in the north, there is plenty of time in Kumagaya for famous Buddhist temples, cherry blossoms and humble fare. But for anyone wishing to explore festive fun, the city explodes with exuberant life thanks to some of the most massive crowd-drawing festivals in the country. An easy escape from Tokyo's hustle, Kumagaya's relaxed ambiance is only interrupted by its residents' love of festival fun.
Want to read about other day trip destinations you can reach from Tokyo? Read our guide to Kawagoe, a city full of historic streets, sweet shops and Edo-era charm. Or, head to our guide to Yokosuka, with top places to visit and things to do when visiting the city.