Last: South African wine industry coming of age despite 1600s' origins
South Africa and its wines are classified as new world, but considering the history of their industry, which dates to the 17th century, it's the oldest of the new, if that makes sense. Things really began with the arrival of the French Huguenots in the late 1600s, fleeing religious persecution in France, and their arrival ushered in a new tier of winemaking skills. Things progressed swimmingly thanks to newfound knowledge coupled with ideal terroirs, only to have the ugliness of apartheid crush their burgeoning export markets.
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It takes a long time to recover from atrocities; a lesson the world seems doomed to repeat. Apartheid ended in 1994, but it took roughly a decade before their wines began to resurface in export markets. I've visited South Africa and explored its wine regions, and the key regions that include Stellenbosch, Paarl, Franschhoek and Constantia are among the most picturesque on the planet.
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South Africa's claim to fame is Pinotage, a red grape variety created by Abraham Izak Perold, a professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University. He decided to cross two French varietals, pinot noir and cinsault, although nobody is quite sure why. It's kind of like crossing a dog with a cat – amusing, sure – but the result can be an animal with conflicting ideologies. While some wineries championed it as a local specialty, others felt obligated to grow it in the shadow of Bordeaux varietals, most notably cabernet sauvignon, which can be exceptional.
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I should note there are some very good examples of pinotage, although the better examples tend to be north of $30, but it's worth splurging on one of those. They can grow pretty much anything in South Africa, but for white wines, they have adopted chenin blanc as the wine they hang their hats on. The grape is native to France's Loire Valley, where it makes racy, mineral-driven wines that can age for decades in the right hands. The South African versions tend to be a little rounder and not quite as steely, but that's not a bad thing. The diversity of terroir in South Africa allows them to produce excellent examples of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. If you're looking for a substitute for your favourite Napa Valley cabernet – and many are – South Africa is a good option, particularly the ones from the Stellenbosch region.
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