The book behind the Met Gala: Monica L Miller's ‘Slaves to Fashion' and the politics of Black Dandyism

Indian Express

08-05-2025

When Monica L Miller published Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity in 2009, few could have predicted that her academic study of Black style, identity, and resistance would one day shape the theme of fashion's most closely watched event. But this year, the Met Gala — known as much for its couture spectacle as for its cultural references — turned to Miller's work for inspiration, putting Black dandyism centre stage.
Held annually to benefit the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Met Gala has in recent years looked to literature for thematic cues. In 2024, JG Ballard's 1962 short story 'The Garden of Time' offered a meditation on beauty, decay, and temporal fragility. This year, Miller, a professor and chair of Africana Studies at Barnard College, served as an inspiration.
Published by Duke University Press, Slaves to Fashion examines how, from Enlightenment England to contemporary culture, Black men have appropriated the codes of high fashion, often born from European colonial contexts, to construct alternative, powerful identities. 'Dandyism is by definition an act of refusal to fit into or even accept given or typical categories of identity,' Miller said during remarks at the Gala's press preview, as quoted in the Vogue.
The book — which received the 2010 William Sanders Scarborough Prize for the best book in African American literature and culture from the Modern Language Association (MLA) and was shortlisted for the 2010 Modernist Studies Association Book Prize — maps a lineage of style that includes Julius Soubise, an 18th-century freedman who wore diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes; American sociologist W E B Du Bois, who embraced the aesthetic in his youth; and contemporary figures such as rappers Sean Combs aka Diddy and André 3000. Yinka Shonibare, the Afro-British artist known for the photographic suite, 'Diary of a Victorian Dandy', also features in Miller's analysis.
The dandy's wardrobe becomes, in Miller's reading, a site of cultural reclamation. 'Luxury slaves,' as they were once called in 18th-century England, were Black servants styled in aristocratic garb by their masters. But, Miller shows how these individuals subverted these symbols . 'Tweaking and reworking their uniforms,' she writes, they carved out new new class identities.
On June 3, Yale University Press will release, 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style', a hardcover companion book for this year's Met gala. It has been authored by Miller, who is the guest curator for this year's exhibition, and Costume Institute Curator in Charge, Andrew Bolton. The book traces the legacy of Black menswear across three centuries —from hip-hop aesthetic and popular street trends, through its use during the Harlem Renaissance and the civil rights movement.
As conversations about race, representation, and cultural appropriation continue to evolve in art and fashion, the two books are a study on how style can speak volumes.
Aishwarya Khosla is a journalist currently serving as Deputy Copy Editor at The Indian Express. Her writings examine the interplay of culture, identity, and politics.
She began her career at the Hindustan Times, where she covered books, theatre, culture, and the Punjabi diaspora. Her editorial expertise spans the Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Chandigarh, Punjab and Online desks.
She was the recipient of the The Nehru Fellowship in Politics and Elections, where she studied political campaigns, policy research, political strategy and communications for a year.
She pens The Indian Express newsletter, Meanwhile, Back Home.
Write to her at [e-mail] or [e-mail]. You can follow her on Instagram: @ink_and_ideology, and X: @KhoslaAishwarya. ... Read More